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Smart Wheel Dead


Georgia Mike

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I was leaving the campground to return home and after 5 minutes on the road the wipers pulsed one time on there own. It happened about 10 minutes later and when I got on the road I went to activate the cruise control and it was dead. Then I realized all the controls on the smart wheel was dead. The wipers kept pulsing every so often till finally they stayed on so I had to pull over and pull the fuse. I have found quite a bit of information on the forum about this problem and I downloaded the troubleshooting guide. Im not sure on my year Dynasty we’re to start looking for the smart wheel control box maybe someone around this year might know. My symptoms are not having any problems prior to this at all and just suddenly going dead. I found someone that lost controls on one side and another with my symptoms but it was a 2009 with chassis multiplex system. I was wondering I had some work done at Josams and they had to center the steering wheel for me and I wondered if they pulled it off to do this and might have messed up the clock spring. Also I checked the 5 amp smart wheel fuse in the frb and it was good. Any tips would be appreciated and the location of the smart wheel box if anyone knows. Going over today to start troubleshooting 

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The VIP Control Box, SM210, is located in the FRB in the lower left area of the bay.

In case you don't have the VIP Manual or the Trouble-Shooting Manual, I have attached them for you. It has troubleshooting steps that you can follow in order to locate the problem.

Device with 12 pin FRB.jpg

VIP Smart Wheel Troubleshooting Manual.pdf Vip SmartWheel Owner's Manual.pdf

Edited by Dr4Film
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Sounds like I would check the clock spring first.   

My 2006 Dynasty has the control box in the front service area drivers side.  Find attached pictures.Inked20211123_115555.thumb.jpg.de910ed0757f74f08bf4ec05ba6132f5.jpg  When I was buying my bus, the steering wheel controls didn't work and it endedWheelcontrolbox.thumb.jpg.17633115c32c3ac504f2ddb5b843fddd.jpg up being the wiring plug a few inches from the control box had gotten wet and the connections corroded.

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First thing to do is check the 3 amp fuse on the SM210 box, lower left corner.  After that unplug and plug back in  the connectors to confirm they are not the problem.  There is also a connector under the steering wheel shroud that can cause a problem.  The I'd start on the diagnostics which would point to clock spring if that were the problem.

Same thing did happen to me, I had been working under the dash and pulled a wire loose out of the pin BUT when I found it someone prior to me had done a sloppy job of trying to fix.  I resoldered the wire and pin and it's work good. 

So check all the wiring harnesses, being exposed if you were working in the FRB you might have inadvertantly pulled a wire loose.

Edited by jacwjames
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I have a question about the testing process. It says to disconnect J5,9,10,11 and 12 then to check voltage on J2.5 and J2 .6 I assume that is pin 5 and 6 on J2? The pins aren’t marked and it doesn’t say to disconnect the J2 plug or the J6 plug so I guess you just stick your probe in the back of the harness while it’s connected? 

 

8B71062E-F6D0-4EED-B948-495287398C12.png

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Check for burnt wires at the Smart Wheel control box.

I had my steering centered last year. They did not remove the steering wheel. All of the adjustments were done under the coach. 

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 I followed the initial testing procedure for the smart wheel master box and have come up with some different readings. I know some coaches are wired differently then others so I don’t know if what I have found is correct or a problem. It says on J2 pins 5&6 I should have 12 volts.l only have 12 volts on 1 pin which I think is pin six pin five has no wire going to it it’s vacant. J6 is supposed to have 12 V but it is dead. When I trace back  the J6 yellow wire, it goes to a connection on the board that says wiper and the fuse is good. You can see on the Schematic that there should be two 12V wires connected together at the J2  plug which I don’t have I have two ground wires that are connected together as you can see in the picture. The picture I drew of  connector is what I am finding on the plug. The one wire that goes into a different harness with the blue splice on it that changes to black is the horn wire which looks correct according to the schematic. Since I have 12 V On J2 to and not on J6 does that mean the control box is bad? Should the 12 volt power on J6 be coming from the board or from the wire?

9B5BF381-8AFD-46E4-A445-BD5DB77963BC.png

148F767C-5BD4-445A-9758-862127D219D7.jpeg

1BCF4CDE-BF6D-48E7-868B-25AE5665CC73.jpeg

348450C8-604C-439E-9891-D618A4D86939.jpeg

Edited by Georgia Mike
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Thanks Richard that makes me feel better now I just need to figure out why I don’t have power on J6. It says to do the test with the key off so like I said, I’m not sure if the power comes from the board internally or from the wire plugged in.

edit

so after doing some more testing I have verified that the J6 wire is energized with the key on not off as the testing process states. I am starting to think Im looking in the wrong place and now going to focus on the clock spring. I’m just not to confident in the testing procedures in this file from vip. I have already checked the connection at the steering wheel base at the floor and it seems ok.

Edited by Georgia Mike
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Clock spring is a common problem.  There have also been instances where people have cleaned the contacts on the clock spring and got the system to work. 

If you have time to take the steering wheel cover off and get at the clock spring to try and confirm part number you can shop around for a replacement. 

I have the parts page for my steering column and it shows the clock spring PN as 1900043

https://www.finditparts.com/search?aggs=true&m[]=DOUGLAS+AUTOTECH+CORP&page=1&per=24&s=clock+spring+1900043&strict_phrase=true

But yours may be different. there should be a tag on it to confirm PN.

Attached is a service bulletin that shows how to replace.

 

D10106 Clock spring bulletins.pdf

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So I came over to the motorhome today and did some more tests and found that the clock spring is bad. There was only continuity on one of the wires. The other three were open and after taking it off and moving it around now there’s no continuity on all four wires, there’s no part number on this clock spring but I think it’s the same one as most of the Monaco’s around this year. Does anyone know where to get one of these at a good price? 
 

A7786C72-6E91-4DD5-BF99-C076EC5557D8.jpeg

9ABED7DD-F9D9-4B52-9E04-7237E4296254.jpeg

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The smart wheel controller output for Cruise On/Off on ours was not working. I don’t think the light on the dash was on though. On ours the dash gets that from the J1939 bus from the engine/transmission via the Faria Beede Gateway that drives the gauges.

I replaced the relay on the Smartwheel controller, but that did not fix it so I wired a 12V powered supply through a fuse to the Cruise On output from the Smartwheel, so my cruise is always available to be engaged.

Paul

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10 hours ago, tmw188 said:

If the OP and Moderators don’t mind I have similar but not as bad issue could it be related? Everything in my Smart Wheel works except recently the cruise displays it’s on but it actually isn’t active. 

Todd,

In the downloads section there is a file for 2002-2004 Windsor, within this file a 2002 Windsor Chassis wiring diagram. 

I looked at mine wiring diagram and it looks like the Cruise ON indicator light is triggered by the VIP module, wire harness is J11 pin 8.  It goes to the ECM but also to the light.  Not sure what would cause the light to stay on, any chance you button could be stuck????

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5 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Todd,

In the downloads section there is a file for 2002-2004 Windsor, within this file a 2002 Windsor Chassis wiring diagram. 

I looked at mine wiring diagram and it looks like the Cruise ON indicator light is triggered by the VIP module, wire harness is J11 pin 8.  It goes to the ECM but also to the light.  Not sure what would cause the light to stay on, any chance you button could be stuck????

No it’s not stuck on, it displays correctly when you turn it on or off on the instrument cluster as normal, but it doesn’t activate the cruise. It use to just fine but quit recently. I need to put these files on my laptop. It’s probably in the back of Monaco manual?

Edited by tmw188
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Chassis wiring diagram wasn't in my manual, I contacted Monaco several years ago and they sent me a PDF copy, very handy to have.  Don't pretend to understand all of it but it does help show the interaction of some of the systems. 

2 hours ago, Happycarz said:

Hypoxia posted this in 2019 on iRV2:

The clockspring is a Douglas Autotech 1900043 in my application, 2007 Monaco Signature.

This is the same one that was listed in the Bulletin I posted and the link I provided.

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I looked at the trouble shooing guide for the VIP smartwheel, is has this

CRUISE "SET" TEST - With the CRUISE "SET" switch on the Steering Wheel not pressed check for
continuity between J11.5 on the Master and J11.2. If continuity does not exist, the cruise "set"
circuitry on the Master is damaged (replace the Master). While the CRUISE "SET" switch on the
Steering Wheel is pressed check for continuity between J11.5 on the Master and J11.1. If
continuity does not exist, the cruise "set" circuitry on the Master is damaged (replace the Master).

So you may try this

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