Scotty Hutto

For Guardian plates, still use a two handled hand gun, but beltlines? Spot repairs? Ok. But, don’t *even* try to do an entire beltline, much less multiple beltlines without an air-powered rivet gun. If you consider your time worth more than minimum wage, you’ll pay for the gun with the first beltline.

Awesome! Thanks, and YES we’ll include it!

Welcome Greg!

Now, @throgmartin is the expert, but I used about 75-80 per beltline (300 SS rivets / 4 beltlines = 75 per) Now, I may have been overzealous - I generally replaced 1 for 1 plus a few... At each screw, a few inches over, plus I doubled up at the ends, a splice in the aluminum beltline, and a trouble spot or two, but "mathing" it: 40' / 0.5' between screws = 80 rivets per beltline. So my guesstimate would be (length of coach) x 2 = # of rivets for each beltline. That includes drops, losses, and shrinkage, but buy extra anyway. You'll eventually use them. 🤣 Also, I ended up using exactly 1 tube of ProFlex per 40' beltline. Buy an extra tube of that, too. It's handy to have around when you need it. The most expensive part will be your time, so my point is buy a little extra so you don't run out. 😉

Best sources I’ve found are McMaster-Carr or Albany Fasteners. McMaster-Carr was faster and less expensive for me. McMaster-Carr:“97525A522 - 18-8 Stainless Steel Blind Rivets, Domed Head, 3/16" Diameter, for 0.751"-0.875" Material Thickness, Packs of 25” https://www.mcmaster.com/97525A522 Albany County Fastener: https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/POP-Rivets-3-16-304-Stainless-Steel-p/11950000.htm

Hello Monacoers, Your faithful webmaster, with A LOT of help of Cameraman Ted Zimmer @TedZimmer, Editor Stacy Hall @stacyhall, and Gary Willis @NGADawgs has created a new YouTube channel for videos we've created on Monaco coaches. All of these videos will be featured in the video section of our site, but you can also view them directly on our YouTube channel. We hope to use this to expand the reach of Bill D's Monacoers and grow our membership. Please check out our channel, SUBSCRIBE, COMMENT, AND LIKE our videos at https://www.youtube.com/@Monacoers-kx1zb/featured If you have a video you'd like to add to the collection, email me: scott AT monacoers.org

Yeah, because the shunt is not supposed to be more than 5’ from the sense module. I guess you could mount the shunt in the battery cable coming to the inverter, then use a short battery cable from the shunt to the inverter? I’m sure others with a similar year Dynasty / Executive / Signature have done it; hopefully someone will chime in…

Gotcha. Sorry, I misunderstood. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Tom, I’m confused, as I thought the Tecma is a macerating toilet, but - your coach is much newer than mine so it may be different. I have a Tecma in my Diplomat that is macerating, and the sole purpose of the macerating toilet in my coach is that the “rear” toilet is 15 feet or so from the black tank, and the toilet grinds and pumps the waste to the black tank, not leaving it to gravity to do the work. From the symptoms - if it were my older macerating toilet - I would say the macerating unit inside the toilet is clogged or otherwise stopped up.

That is correct. My shunt is in the battery bay (as it must be!), but the sense module is in the next bay over in the inverter bay.

I installed a Battery Maintenance Kit (BMK) on my Magnum Inverter today. The BMK is a single battery bank amp-hour meter that monitors and provides important information about the condition of the battery. This information will let you know how much energy you have available, and let you plan your electrical usage to ensure the battery is not being over-discharged. My understanding is that the BMK will allow the inverter to compute a fairly accurate State Of Charge (SOC). As we intend to travel more and will occasionally boondock (at Harvest Hosts and the like), I wanted more insight into how my battery bank is holding up. Instructions are pretty straightforward forward to install. Annoyingly, Magnum does not include two items required to complete the installation. It would be nice if Magnum (or someone) offered these already made up as an option with the BMK kit. 1. A short negative battery cable. 2. 12v black/red power wiring with a 2A fuse to power the BMK. If you decide to install a BMK, make sure you have those items on hand. Install took about an hour (I made up the battery cable and power wiring prior to starting the install.) Install area before shunt installation: With shunt installed. Blue and orange wires run to BMK. Short negative battery cable run from shunt to negative distribution stud BMK installed by inverter (next to MagWeb, which broadcasts inverter data via the internet to my phone.)

https://fb.watch/ltqvPGfG5T/?mibextid=YCRy0i

The leakage I referred to was simply the coil cleaner dripping from the coils. That should clear up in a couple of hours at most. Our Diplomats don’t have drain lines, so the condensate (drip) pans drain directly onto the roof. If the foam gasket between the roof and the AC unit is compromised, if can allow condensate to drain back into the AC opening. The gasket is not very expensive, but replacing it requires removing the four bolts that hold it down and disconnecting any power and control wires that run through the opening. Shut the AC power off before attempting this! Here’s a decent video explaining it; there are others that go into more detail. The Steele Rubber gaskets he suggests are good, or you can buy the OEM Dometic gaskets if that’s your issue. I can’t vouch for any other brands. Hope this helps!

The two most common reasons for coils freezing are low refrigerant and dirty evaporator coils. As this is a closed system and freon leaks would disable the system, I would suggest the most likely reason is dirty coils. Since this is *likely* a heat pump, both indoor and outdoor coils need to be cleaned. I vacuum the coils, then use coil cleaner spray. Put plastic and towels on the bed / floor / whatever inside the coach under the units. Although most of the coil cleaning is done from the roof, it WILL leak through to the inside. Here is the coil cleaner I used last time. You can find it (or a comparable alternative) at a local hardware store, or get it on Amazon. https://a.co/d/aCK5AW9

I’m pretty sure Chris @throgmartin waited until mine was done before he started offering kits. 🤔

Well, now you know! 🤣 Nope. Fiberglass. Aluminum would be nice, tho!

I had mine installed on the roof (I’ve since removed it). I used #10 x 1-1/2” stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed directly into the Coach roof, and sealed everything up with Dicor self-leveling lap sealant. I had it mounted like that for about 5 years and never had any problem. This is where it was… (I’ve filled the screw holes with Dicor and patched with Eternabond…) I’m doing a roof renovation, so please ignore my dirty roof 🤣.

Not Doug, but in Anchorage it’s overcast, rainy, and about 60°F today; high 40s at night. I think Doug is a bit southeast of here. …tomorrow night I can tell you the temp in Atlanta (home). 😉

@Steven P had a similar problem a while back (last year?). Turned out to be a cable rubbing against the frame (?) had severed a wire. The Allison tech patched the wire in the field and everything has worked since. Simple fix, but hard to find. I’ll message Steven and see if he can log on and give more specifics. Since he also has a 2006 Dip I’m hoping there’s some similarity.

Tim, I can’t speak with authority about the 2007 Endeavor, but the 2006 Diplomat (twin coach) had a 1.5 DIN Magnadyne. I was able to enlarge the hole on the top and bottom to get a double din unit installed. Here’s a link to my install: