Scotty Hutto

Sharing my embarrassment as a reminder to those folks who have rear radiator coaches… Do a good job cleaning that rear radiator! There are other threads here detailing the process, but I want to emphasize spraying cleaner on *both* sides of the radiator and rinsing. I thought I had been cleaning my radiator the six years I’ve owned my Dip - it looked really good from the back of the coach, but I’ve never done much cleaning from the front (engine) side of the coach. Shame on me. Fortunately (and I really mean that!) it sprung a leak after 17 years and 102,000 miles. Wifey said she wanted a new radiator - don’t wait to see if this one can be repaired because if we waited to see if it could be repaired, and then had to order it after they pulled the old one, it could mess up our “big” trip coming up in August. So we ordered a new radiator from Radiator Supply House that arrived last Friday MTR Fleet Services in Cumming, GA pulled the radiator this morning and I was floored at what they found. My coach has only overheated once in the 6 years I’ve owned it, but this is what they found: Radiator: Up close… The entire center of the radiator was completely plugged! The four corners were all blocked. There was a ring of open area around the plugged center where air could pass. Fortunately, my CAC was pretty clean, but will undergo pressure testing, repair if necessary, and cleaning. The squeaky (bearings) water pump is being replaced, a stainless steel Talin Vector surge tank installed, and all new belts and hoses. Charge Air Cooler (CAC)

my apologies if your app looks different; I have the iPhone version… I was also looking at these settings and wondering if you’ve tried increasing the “Adapter Connection Timeout” value to a larger number, like 120? In the “Advanced Settings”, there are also settings that could be adjusted to keep the adapter connected. Try increasing the “Adapter Heartbeat Timeout” to a larger number like 120 seconds. If that doesn’t help, check the “Ignore Heartbeat” as a test to see if that’s what’s causing the disconnection. It says to contact BF Support first, so I’ll simply say “beware” (but I’m the type person who likes to twist the knobs and flip the switches before I ask for help. Your Mileage May Vary…)

Also, since you are an Android user,you can check these settings: Use Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE): Select this to always connect to the Adapter using Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE). This will not be shown for Apple devices as all Apple devices use BLE. For Android and Windows devices this will automatically be selected when connecting to the Adapter but you can speed up the connection time if you have a BLE Adapter and you select this first. This will not be shown if 'Use Bluetooth Classic (2.1)' is checked. You must uncheck 'Use Bluetooth Classic (2.1)' to check this option. Note, a BLE Adapter is an Apple/Android/Windows Adapter and has a square Bluetooth module under the cap (See Adapter Styles above). Use Bluetooth Classic (2.1): Select this to always connect to the Adapter using Bluetooth Classic 2.1. This will not be shown for Apple devices as all Apple devices use Bluetooth Low Energy. For Android and Windows devices this will automatically be selected when connecting to the Adapter but you can speed up the connection time if you have a Bluetooth Classic Adapter and you select this first. This will not be shown if ' Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE)' is checked. You must uncheck ' Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE)' to check this option. Note, a Bluetooth Classic Adapter is an Android/Windows Adapter has a rectangular Bluetooth module under the cap (See Adapter Styles above).

@Yoaks5 Kevin, I agree with Gary that changing to the J1939 bus won't fix the bluetooth dropout problem. Here is what I shared with Gary. I'll take some more pics at the coach over the next week and write up exactly what all I did. In short I made the connection to the J1939 bus in the console left of the driver (where the transmissions shifter, etc. is located) Scotty ***** I bought a splitter off eBay, and a pre-wired plug, then ran the 2-J1939 data wires up the plug. https://www.ebay.com/itm/354323662047?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Gfczo2RxTuS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=4JE8IY8nRVa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/354288615555?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Gfczo2RxTuS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=4JE8IY8nRVa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I replaced the j1708 plug with a J1939 plug, and used both the J1708 and J1939 data wires. Here's where I purchased the plug: http://obd2allinone.com/products/j1939m-t2.asp I bought the j1939m-t2j "jam nut" connector with 5 pins, and the j1939pins package of 5 extra pins. (BTW, you need the plug AND pins. Pro tip: get extra pins. They're cheap, and if you mess up, you're dead in the water until you get more.) You will need a good pin crimping tool. Here is a picture of the wiring under the console. At the bottom left you'll see the cable with 3 pin Deutsch (triangular) connectors labeled "ALADDIN" (circled in white). That is where I put the "Y" adapter. The other cable goes to the Transmission Control Module (TCM). Since I had the Aladdin J1939 connector, I felt that was less "risky". I didn't really want to mess with my transmission. Here are the J1939 bus pinouts: ...and the J1939 bus pinouts: I used pins A through G. Pins H and J are not used. A & B are self explanatory. C, D, and E come from the "Y" cable where I tapped off the Aladdin port (pay attention to the orientation - the wires are NOT labeled.) F & G come from the existing J1708 cable. Here is the tool that came with the new port to pull pins from the old port and insert into the new port. Note that the J1708 pins are larger than the J1939 pins, so the pins are cut off and replaced with the pins that come with the port. If I was going to do it again, I'd spend a little more and get a nicer Deutsch pin tool.

Larry, Rick, Here is the Chassis Wiring file converted to PDF. I used large format so you can zoom in close... 38041505 Chassis Wiring.pdf Also, I went by the coach and confirmed my 2006 Dip does indeed have a L-N 110-192 (AKA LBP2180). It is wired as per the diagram Rick provided above (which I added to our files).

@Gary Cole Just to be clear…. The BlueFire will work with the J1708 bus, and Bluefire sells a J1939 to J1708 adapter. It *may* not be able to access as much data, and is certainly a slower update speed. I added the J1708 and J1939 so I could read my ECM, Allison transmission, and Bendix brake system from the front of the coach. It also increases the update rate for the BlueFire substantially.

Use the Aladdin J1929 bus cable in the side console instead of the transmission cable. Less risk! I used a "Y" connector on the Aladdin feed, replaced my J1708 with a J1939 plug, and all works great! I *think* I sent you a PM with info on the Y connector. PS - I still need to write that up...

Rick, I'm heading over to my coach today and will take pictures of my alternator. If you still have the updated drawing please upload it (if you haven't already). My electrical drawings still show the DUVAC alternator 🤦🏻‍♂️; I'd love to get a copy of the correct drawings... at least for the alternator!!

The Aladdin Jr (limited monitoring) was an option on the 2006 Diplomat; I don't see it listed as an option on the 2005 Dip brochure. You may not have any engine/transmission monitoring system. ScanGauge D is an option. See @96 EVO's comments. Several friends have them and like their simplicity and ability to display codes. Bluefire is an option, but be aware the engine diagnostic port on your 2005 Dip is a J1708 and will have limited information available. I have an Aladdin Jr AND a Bluefire. I love the configurability of the Bluefire It's a little work, but you can set it up to monitor what you want, and can customize how it's displayed. Note that you will need some type devices (iPad or Android tablet) to view the Bluefire info on. Silverleaf VMSpec is the most complete (and expensive) system, but has the most functionality, to my understanding... It requires a Windows tablet or laptop to display. Maybe @redstickbill could post some photos or tell us a little more about his system. 😉 Just FYI... The Intellitec Energy Management System (EMS) was an option on the 2005 Dip. You most likely have that to manage your shore power.

@JeffM31, Try the easy fix first: On my 2006 DIp, and on every 2006 Dip I've seen, the section of pipe between the two dump valves (black and gray) will rotate. Gently try to rotate that down (or up) until the dump hose will fit through the hole. Longer term fix (Thanks @Doug Hoegh, Moderator of the FB Monacoers Group for the idea and link to the 6" port) is to replace the 4" port with a 6" port. Here's the one I used and it completely eliminated any issues: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HRAUSMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Photo credit @Doug Hoegh too. 🙂

Total stored in your PM inbox

Folks, I just discovered there was a private message quota of 50 messages, and some of you have been unable to send or receive private messages. My apologies… As admins, we have unlimited messaging so I never realized it had a cap. The limit has been raised to 250. If you still run into a “mailbox full” error, please let me know. I’m not quite sure where the sweet spot is for the membership, but it doesn’t take long to collect 50, so I raised it. If you get a message that you can’t send or receive private messages, it’s not the Admins dissing you. Email us at moderator@monacoers.org and we’ll fix it.

EDITED for clarity… That’s where I store *some* of that stuff in my Dip. I do have it in plastic boxes in case something ruptures. Nothing explosive that a *spark from the inverter* might ignite. I store some hydraulic fluid, antifreeze, and grease in there. No diesel or other fuel; no propane containers (!); no spray cans, etc. Please note I also have an automatic Halon Fire extinguisher in there that was formerly in my refrigerator compartment Your mileage may vary. 🤣

I guess the first question we should ask is what did Bay State Truck Center install? Leece-Neville, Delco 28SI, or something else? It’s critical to know whether they put a L-N DUVAC alternator or something else before heading down the troubleshooting path. The troubleshooting paths diverge depending on what they installed. Having an Alt Chg light may indicate a problem, or not, depending on what was installed, as Myron notes above. My 2006 Dip charging system is completely OEM (at the moment), and I can do things in a certain order that will cause it to come on. And sometimes, it just wants to remind me it’s there…🤷🏻‍♂️ I can drive 2 hours with the genny running with no issue, and suddenly it pops on. Having fully tested it, I can say with confidence that my Trombetta relay, my IRD, and my alternator are functioning properly.

Here is the alternator info for a 2006 Dip. The unit shown below is a direct replacement, per the Presto-Lite (Leece-Neville) website. The 110-912 has been discontinued. Hope that helps!

We tried several method, but in the end we used utility knives to remove the “bulk”, the plastic razor blades and De-Solve-it to get the remnants. I believe Talin uses Boeshield T-9 to help loosen it. Caulk removal is the toughest part. On the other hand, if you use a two handled rivet gun to do all 300 rivets, you can skip “arm day” at the gym…

For Guardian plates, still use a two handled hand gun, but beltlines? Spot repairs? Ok. But, don’t *even* try to do an entire beltline, much less multiple beltlines without an air-powered rivet gun. If you consider your time worth more than minimum wage, you’ll pay for the gun with the first beltline.

Awesome! Thanks, and YES we’ll include it!

Welcome Greg!

Now, @throgmartin is the expert, but I used about 75-80 per beltline (300 SS rivets / 4 beltlines = 75 per) Now, I may have been overzealous - I generally replaced 1 for 1 plus a few... At each screw, a few inches over, plus I doubled up at the ends, a splice in the aluminum beltline, and a trouble spot or two, but "mathing" it: 40' / 0.5' between screws = 80 rivets per beltline. So my guesstimate would be (length of coach) x 2 = # of rivets for each beltline. That includes drops, losses, and shrinkage, but buy extra anyway. You'll eventually use them. 🤣 Also, I ended up using exactly 1 tube of ProFlex per 40' beltline. Buy an extra tube of that, too. It's handy to have around when you need it. The most expensive part will be your time, so my point is buy a little extra so you don't run out. 😉

Best sources I’ve found are McMaster-Carr or Albany Fasteners. McMaster-Carr was faster and less expensive for me. McMaster-Carr:“97525A522 - 18-8 Stainless Steel Blind Rivets, Domed Head, 3/16" Diameter, for 0.751"-0.875" Material Thickness, Packs of 25” https://www.mcmaster.com/97525A522 Albany County Fastener: https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/POP-Rivets-3-16-304-Stainless-Steel-p/11950000.htm

Hello Monacoers, Your faithful webmaster, with A LOT of help of Cameraman Ted Zimmer @TedZimmer, Editor Stacy Hall @stacyhall, and Gary Willis @NGADawgs has created a new YouTube channel for videos we've created on Monaco coaches. All of these videos will be featured in the video section of our site, but you can also view them directly on our YouTube channel. We hope to use this to expand the reach of Bill D's Monacoers and grow our membership. Please check out our channel, SUBSCRIBE, COMMENT, AND LIKE our videos at https://www.youtube.com/@Monacoers-kx1zb/featured If you have a video you'd like to add to the collection, email me: scott AT monacoers.org