Scotty Hutto

Joel, I’ve not dealt with that before, but I know there are those on here who have and will likely give good advice if insurance totals the vehicle, it may be worthwhile to pay for a third-party appraisal that includes all of your improvements to assist with negotiations… I can tell you it is a negotiation, and typically the first offer you get from insurance will be a lowball offer. Be prepared with facts and information to negotiate. The other thing that occurs to me is that if the insurance company won’t consider your improvements, you should remove as many as possible before relinquishing the vehicle to insurance. I realize the flooring can’t be salvaged, but other things can be removed and saved for your next coach.

I had the same issue on my 2006 Dip. The 7.5a fuse for the ECM in my battery bay was blown. It was in a fuse holder mounted on the sidewall of the battery bay. A bit difficult to find, since the label had long since lost its ink. PS - my ECM worked fine and I could read it from the engine bay with Insite; apparently that fuse just powered the J1708 data bus up front. ???

You are quite welcome to post them as a file, or post the text in this thread. We’re all about sharing info, so long as it’s not copyrighted. 😉

Yes, soft starts are available for home systems and larger commercial systems. They are also used on a lot of large motors for industrial processes. In industrial processes it typically has a lot to do with the capacity and protection of the plant electrical system. Those same things apply to a motorhome HVAC system. They do reduce the initial draw of starting current (LRA, or locked rotor amps), which allows a ramp-up of current rather than an initial “spike”. This allows an HVAC System with RLA (running load amps) of 13-14 amps to run on a circuit designed for 15/20 amps. In theory, this reduces stress on multiple components. Think of it as starting off gently from a stop sign rather than flooring your Corvette each time you come to a stop. We know intuitively that’s better for the car, but trying to quantify it? No way. The most prevalent failure mode for an electric motor is failure of the insulation in the motor windings. This typically occurs at start-up, when the surge of starting current stresses (tests?) the insulation. Failure occurs when the insulation fails and the motor windings short out (the “Magic smoke” and what you smell is the insulation burning.) So logic leads us to understand that reducing start-up current will extend the life of a motor. How much? That’s virtually impossible to quantify, because failure of electric motors is difficult to predict. As far as mini-splits for RVs, Bill Groves and I started working on a design for that about three years ago (I’m a ME with HVAC experience, and Bill was both an ME and an EE with electrical and electronics experience). We couldn’t understand why no one makes then, especially with the proliferation of lithium batteries and solar for boondocking. Unfortunately, Bill ( obviously the brains of the operation) passed away about two years ago, and I dropped the project. Maybe someone will take up that torch…

Yes. We were using a drill bit stop collar set at 1” but took it off to make the videos.

I have dealt with these folks before and they seem to have a very good handle on RV valuations. For $99 they will give you a valuation specific to your coach. https://rvpricingandappraisals.com/

The information we received back in February is that Lazy Days has shut the park down for renovation, and they do not know how long it will be closed. It is my understanding, and @David Pratt can confirm since he deals with them first hand, that they may have an agreement with a third party to operate the RV park when it reopens. I also understood that the office building has severe damage (insects, termites??) and will need to be demolished and rebuilt. The RV spots are being reconfigured and they will likely reduce the number of RV’s the park will hold. The new park, when opened will be considered a separate entity from Lazy Days. Not sure whether the name might change.

This week, Gary @NGADawgs , Ted @TedZimmer, and I got together to work on our beltlines. Through the magic of the smart phone and Ted and Stacy’s @stacyhall editing and production skillz, we now have a video show how to (and in a couple of cases, how NOT to) repair belt lines. Please note this is somewhat of a work in progress, and we reserve the right to edit out our mistakes, so feedback on how to improve it is welcomed. I’m sure @throgmartin and @David Pratt will give us some pointers. 🤣 Sincerely, thanks to all the Monacoers, especially @throgmartin and @David Pratt for the help and guidance.

On *many* Monaco diesel pusher coaches, the condenser fan and receiver/dryer are close to the rear of the coach. On mine it’s just behind the driver’s side rear wheel. Just a reminder that “your mileage may vary” based on what coach you have. ——- That said, it seems running 45’ of #2 AWG (minimum), devising a controls circuit, and increasing your alternator size to accommodate the coach battery charging and other electrical usage (est 160-200 amp) and AC (100A) would be a substantial task. Offhand I’m thinking a 300A alternator would be required If those items fit in your skill set and budget, I bet a *lot* of folks would be very interested in the end result. (PS - I’ve spent more than the cost of those items trying to find and fix the problem with my dash AC) ——- On a somewhat related note… I *finally* resolved my dash AC issues by replacing the compressor. The replacement compressor installed about two years ago had a bad shaft seal and would lose a charge in just 4-5 days. A bad compressor shaft seal is virtually impossible to detect, so based on advice of this group I purchased a new OEM compressor and had it professionally installed, which solved my refrigerant loss problem. I now have nice, cold dash AC, and with it working after sitting over a month, am confident it is fixed.

I’m sure a helmet abates the noise, or you can always wear earplugs (wait, that’s illegal🤣)

From my May 20, 2019 post on the old Yahoo! Monacoers Forum: I have the Wacko Products A/C silencer on my front (den) A/C and have had it for about six months. It is a fairly simple install (maybe 10 minutes) and has made an appreciable difference in the noise. I tested noise level before and after with dB Sound Meter app, and it went from 90 dB average to 84 dB @ 1’ from air intake. VERY noticeable difference in noise level to both my wife and I. She can now hear the TV without it being on full volume when the A/C is running, and it looks a heck of a lot nicer than my 12 year old, warped, yellowed original cover. http://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji6.png ——- BTW, even at 84 dB, that is still pretty darn LOUD (but it was at 1’ from the unit)

Just to confirm Tom’s info, I was an HVAC engineer in a prior life (for commercial systems, not RVs) and our standard “generic” design parameter for air conditioning systems was a 20° ∆T, (specifically from 75°F to 55°F. ) That ∆T may be higher or lower based on actual temperature and humidity conditions at the intake. ——- I have considered the RV Airflow design, and based on experience with duct design (there is no “design” AT ALL to the ductwork in our coaches) believe it will reduce resistance and turbulence at the fan exit, which should reduce noise (primarily caused by turbulence) and increase airflow without negatively impacting airflow across the coils. I plan to add it to the front unit in my coach. The rear unit acts as a white noise generator for my wife to sleep, soo I don’t want it too quiet 🙄 By the way, I have spoken with their engineer and these units are compatible with and complement silencers, such as the Wacko RV AC Silencer.

Nice looking coach!

We had 2006 vintage carpet for the first 4 years and engineered hardwood for the past two. I didn’t notice any difference in sound levels (traveling or stationary), although logic says there probably was some difference. We have two large dogs that travel with us (Great Pyrenees), and it’s a lot easier to clean up the coach with hard-surface floors. For our situation, the hardwood floors were a great improvement, but as always, “your mileage may vary” based on your situation…

Hey gang, could I get recommendations on alternator rebuild shops, preferably based on first-hand experience. (Also preferably in the southeast; Atlanta area would be awesome!)? I have a 200 amp Leece-Neville alternator (off of a 2005 HR Imperial) that I would like to have rebuilt as a spare for our upcoming trip (August - Sept). Also, any thoughts on the wisdom of rebuilding this one as a spare vs. just purchasing a new L-N (about $500!) I can purchase the rebuild components from L-N. Is rebuilding it myself a viable option? (I don’t have a bearing press or equipment to easily test the rebuilt alternator.) …and yes, I’ve searched the internet with no good results (in my experience, most folks that still rebuild something like an alternator don’t have much of an online presence) Thanks, Scotty PS - I’ll add any good recommendations based on first hand experience to our “Services” section, regardless of location.

Re-tried troubleshooting step 3. No backflow through the pump, so I ordered a brand new diverter valve. Will report back with results once installed.

Further update…. Replaced the city water diverter valve. Still have the issue with fresh water tank filling (on city water) or pump periodically cycling (with city water off and using water from tank). Going to re-try Tom’s troubleshooting step 3 (no valve on inlet) to determine if the new diverter valve is leaking (that is a possibility, as this was not a brand new valve) for the record… - I’ve traced out all water lines in the coach over the past month this has been happening, and I am confident I do not have a leak in the coach - I do use a good (Watts) pressure regulator (with gauge), and maintain pressure around 55 psi+- in the coach when on city water. The Remco 55Aquajet ARV pump provides slightly higher pressure. - The coach is certainly useable, but the freshwater tank filling and/or pump periodically cycling is annoying, and I’ve got to keep on this until I resolve it

Yes, I did. They were easy to reach and helpful.

Ditto. The wifi would make it very useful for me. Bluetooth... yes, but not quite as much.

Just a quick update… Installed the Remco AquaJet check valve (easy!). Did not fix the pump cycling problem, or freshwater tank filling when on city water. It was easy and cheap, but not the problem. Next up: Finish Tom’s troubleshooting procedure, and possibly replace city water diverter valve (I have a spare on hand, so it’s another fairly easy / free thing to try. We have to attend a memorial service for a family member tomorrow, so hopefully I’ll be back at it Tuesday.

Question for the group... I have an idea what I want to do, but would like the wisdom of a multitude of counsel... I replaced my original ShurFlo pump (had a built in check valve) a few years back with a AquaJet55 pump (original AquaJet brand; not Remco). Due to a series of unfortunate events, that pump gave up on me late last year. I replaced it with the Remco 55AquaJet ARV. Since replacing it, I've been having a problem with short pump pulsations, and the fresh water tank filling when connected to city water (City water diverter valve set to "City", not tank fill). All of this points to either a check valve issue (problem 1), or a problem with the city water diverter valve (problem 2). I went the easy route first and checked my pump's check valve, only to discover it doesn't have one. The specs for the Remco 55AquaJet ARV say that it does have a check valve, but mine is not there. The city water diverter valve on my coach does not have a check valve. Ergo, I currently have no check valve (so, definitely problem 1). I also have a spare city water diverter valve from a 2005 HR Imperial. When checking it out, I discovered it has a brass Watts check valve built in. So, here are my options: 1) Add the plastic check valve from Remco (about $8) that fits in the output port of the pump. This would have the setup identical to the OEM setup. This addresses problem 1. 2) Use the "new" diverter valve with the brass Watts check valve. The brass Watts check valve seems much more robust than the plastic valve fitted to the pump. This addresses problems 1 & 2. 3) Do both? Would a "belt & suspenders" approach be creating issues to have two check valves in series (one at the pump and another upstream at the diverter valve)? Thoughts? Suggestions?

If you have posted parts and they are sold, please let the Moderators know so we can hide the post (we don’t delete them for a period in case something falls through!) It makes it easier when folks are search if we hide the stuff that’s no longer available.

Interesting side note… I replaced my old (failed) AquaJet with a new Remco 55AquaJet ARV late last year. I’ve been chasing an issue and pulled the pump today to check that the check valve had not gotten stuck or trash in it… my brand new pump didn’t have a check valve installed! Easy fix, but still… 🤦🏻‍♂️ if you buy a new 55AquaJet ARV pump, check to make sure it has the check valve installed (like the Remco literature says it does…)

Oops! My mistake. Corrected and “unmarked” I spoke with Magnum Tech Support yesterday. They never responded to my email request for a callback (per the website) or the callback message left Monday per their recorded message. I ended up calling and waiting through about an 1 hr 20m hold (while I was working on other stuff on my laptop) to get through. I believe they only have one (maybe two?) Tech answering calls, and they are struggling to keep up with requests. I was 11th in line when I first called, so figure 10-15 minutes per caller ahead of you should you decide to hold.

I agree a more descriptive title would help. how about: 2009 Signature Restoration - Kongsberg CCM I’d like to retain the reference to the Kongsberg CCM, as that’s what makes this thread unusual and interesting to so many.