Jump to content

Scotty Hutto

Administrators
  • Posts

    1,758
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    153

Everything posted by Scotty Hutto

  1. Richard, just for the record my ISL400 takes 28 quarts, although the manual says 24. I wonder if there was a slightly deeper oil pan on some models?
  2. Following Tom’s instructions above to the letter will solve the vast majority of GFCI related problems.
  3. The remote control is the device (typically) inside the coach that you use to monitor and set parameters on the inverter. Here’s a pic: The control board is the electronics board physically inside the inverter that talks to the remote (and AGS, BMK, etc.) and actually controls the inverter. As for your GFCI receptacle, have you replaced it? They do “wear out” (so to speak), and one symptom is that they “pop” off often and become harder to reset. If you replace, make sure you use the same rated GFCI (mine was 20A). The ones purchased from a big box had the same issue Here is the one recommended by Magnum Tech Support that solved my issue: Hubbell Wiring GFRST20W AUTOGUARD Commercial Standard GFCI Receptacle, White, NEMA 5-20R, 125 Volts, 20 AMPS https://a.co/d/1WPy9aB There’s a really good thread on this subject that may help.
  4. Just following up…. Tested everything per the “Magnum Inverter Troubleshooting Matrix” (Uploaded to the files section). Followed up with more discussion with Frank and Magnum Tech Support. Most likely scenario is a bad ME-ARC50 remote. Secondary possibility is a bad control board in the inverter itself. Magnum Tech support recommended replacing the ME-ARC50. If by chance that does not correct the issue, they do not recommend having the control board replaced due to the age of the inverter (17 years). Even if a new control board corrected the issue, at 17 yrs, it’s reached end-of-life and other components could begin to fail. In conclusion, if the new remote doesn’t fix the problem, it’s time for a new inverter… new remote is on order and set to arrive early next week. Stay tuned…
  5. This requires a tool called a Deutsch removal tool. You can find them at many automotive stores, Amazon, or online. Pro tip: the tool releases the catch holding the pin from “behind” - you still need something to push the pin out from the “front”. Here’s a link to an inexpensive plastic one: https://www.delcity.net/store/Contact-Removal-Tools/p_824370.h_824360.r_IF1003?utm_term=&identifiers=pla-4577885387334982&Campaign=Shopping - Catchall&CampaignId=445029913&AdGroup=Catchall&AdGroupId=1188573056390575&AdId=74286034062410&Network=s&msclkid=ea3ef3e9ce3e17cc41f297d1f8f630e7&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping - Catchall&utm_content=Catchall You can buy the Deutsch connector pins at places like Amazon or Mouser (or your local electronics store, if you still have one!) I can’t advise on the exact info because I can’t tell the size from the pic!
  6. I found a unused, switched 14 ga circuit under the dash. I don’t recall what it was labeled for. I also drilled and tapped a hole in the metal strut under the dash for the ground I thought about running a larger (10 ga) wire from the FRB, but this one has worked fine. I don’t crank it up that loud, so I guess it gets enough power.
  7. Yes, very happy with the sound; the sub rocks. I did not have to enlarge the speaker openings for the ceiling speakers (dash radio*); I went with the same size, just better quality. * - on my surround sound I used larger speakers and head to cut new holes.
  8. Not sure yet. Testing everything tomorrow. BTS, AGS, and MagWeb device. All are less than a year old (in fact, the only part of my inverter system that’s original is the inverter itself!), but it’s one of those three 😒 I’ll report back
  9. Just to pile on Tom’s comments, I had this same issue today…. A faulty AGS (it’s less than a year old!🤦🏻‍♂️ or a faulty MagWeb (remote monitoring system by Magnum) is causing my issue. Everything except the ARC remote is currently disconnected and system is working as it should. I’ll troubleshoot those two devices tomorrow once my blood pressure returns to normal and report back… PS - Thanks @Frank McElroy … again… for restoring my sanity.
  10. Sorry for your loss. 😢 it hurts when those fur babies cross the rainbow bridge. I've lost two Shelties in the past twos years (one 13, one 14 years old.)
  11. To add to Ivan's post, that three connector system is the J1939 data bus. It connects to the engine ECM, transmission ECM, and Brake ECM, along with Aladdin (or Silverleaf) and a few other things. For that diagnostic port, it allows someone with the Cummins Insite program (or the Allison or Bendix programs) to connect to those computers. To leave it unconnected could cause errors on the data bus and erratic behavior of the affected systems. If I have any of this wrong, @Frank McElroy can correct any errors. 😉
  12. Thanks Barry! Looks like I'm going to be doing this in a few weeks... Scotty
  13. Hello Monacoers! Please keep comments in this section limited to providing suggestions for additions to the parts list. If you are asking for help finding a part not listed, those requests are best posted in the appropriate topic on the main site. For example, if you need a left hand threaded wing nut for your air conditioner, that would be posted in the air conditioner topic. Once you've found the part, PLEASE come back here and suggest it as an addition to the parts list. Thanks, Scotty & Frank
  14. One other item to check is that most Monacos have a wiring harness connector in the rear of the coach; over time that can lose connection. On my coach it was inside/“behind” the roadside taillight assembly. Note: NOT the connector for the individual tail light; this is a slightly larger connector that goes to both taillights, the center brake light, and the toad/trailer connector Find it, spray it with contact cleaner or WD40, plug and unplug a few times to “clean” the connector, and see if that helps. I know of a few other folks who have had this pop up, plus, it’s easy to check compare to some of the other troubleshooting. 🤣
  15. Thanks for bringing this up! We like rely on first hand experiences when recommending replacement items, so now we have it! The reason the ESCO LPT50BRD is mentioned so frequently is that many members have used it and had a good experience with it (I’m one). We used to have a member, Bill Groves (aka HotRod - who passed about 2 years ago) who was both electrical and mechanical engineering degrees. His preferred unit was the Southwire (formerly TRC) SurgeGuard units. He was not a fan of the ESCO unit because of the way it switched the neutral circuits (no air break). If I were to do it all over today I would use the Southwire 40100 unit and the Hughes Power Watchdog surge protection. In simple terms the Southwire completely disconnects the neutral during switchover, which is somewhat safer than the way the LPT50BRD does it. The chances of a neutral problem during switchover with the LTP50BRD are very small, and many, many Monaco owners have never had an issue with this unit over decades of use. It can only happen when the generator is running AND you are connected to shore power during switchover. Most resolve this issue by simply disconnecting shore power, or stopping the genny before switching (not a bad practice, regardless) This has been a subject of much debate on this site and the Yahoo! Forum over the years. Unless corrected, I will say it’s a “theoretical” problem in that I’m not aware of a member’s Monaco coach getting damaged due to this issue. As far as surge protection goes, the Hughes and Progressive Industries units are both excellent, but the Hughes unit offers more connectivity and features, plus it has a higher surge rating (6,100 joules for the Hughes vs 3580 joules for the PI) - specifically for my interest, it links with my RV Whisper system to notify me of a shore power outages and records electrical data which helps diagnose problems. It also has an easily field-replaceable surge module in case the surge section gets fried. One thing I’m pretty sure all Monacoers members agree on - just about anything is safer than the recalled IOTA ITS-50R units.
  16. until

    For those who are interested, here is the response to the donation Monacoers made to K9s for Warriors from the 50/50 raffle and coach weighing proceeds.
  17. I tried copilot for a while, but ended up purchasing a dedicated Garmin
  18. Understood, but it is still likely to have the J1939 bus in the driver console. It also connects to the Bendix brake controller and the Allison transmission ECM from there. I wouldn't suggest "messing" with either of those controllers, but if the Aladdin was an option for the Cayman, you likely have an unused data cable there. They used a similar (if not the same) wiring harness in all of the lower-end diesel coaches (Cayman, Knight, Diplomat), so there's a pretty decent chance... It might be worth a look to see... Her's pic of my brake controller and the Aladdin connector in my coach.
  19. Just finished adding a 9-pin J1939 port under the dash on my 06 Diplomat. I’ll post a separate write-up soon, but it was easier than expected. I put a Deutsch 3-pin (DT-3) “Y” in the J1939 bus cable going to the Aladdin/J1939 bridge (located in the driver’s side console on my coach.) From there I had to run 3 wires (data + / data - / data shield) to the location of the 6-pin connector. I then replaced the gray J1708 6-pin connector with a green J1939 9-pin connector using 12+, ground, J1708+, J1708-, plus the 3 J1939 lines. 7 of the 9 pins are populated. Checked it and have full J1939 and J1708 busses operational now. Total cost about $50-60-ish and a few hours’ time.
  20. Here is the parts list for that tank. Hope this helps; unfortunately I don’t have the manufacturer name, but the column labeled “Vendor P/N” is the useful info. Most times you can do a search based on that and the description and find the vendor name and availability. PS - the “Part #” in the second column can be used to find the part on the REV website, but if they have it, they’ll charge 2-3 times market price
  21. Nice install @Agpopp! Could you provide details on the LED’s you used? I’ve been considering doing something similar, and like the lights you chose. My big hangup has been the cost of the maple I want to use to match the cabinets. 🤷🏻‍♂️
  22. Remco purchased the original company now makes a newer version of that exact pump, called the Remco Aquajet 55 ARV. There are a few threads on here discussing it. Meanwhile here is a post from @David Pratt from the old Monacoers form discussing it. 😁 Our Foretravel ih-45 has the Remco Aquajet 55 ARV water pump installed as well as a small Accumulator. The pump is the 5.3 GPM ARV pump. The accumulator is small about 10" long and 5" in diameter. According to my paper work the accumulator is charged at 30psi. The water pump is mounted on a 1/2" thick foam pad on the floor of the bay and is plumbed with two coiled flexible hoses. You can barely hear the pump when it is running and the water pressure is excellent. I have as much water pressure and flow as I do in my Brick house. I had the same Aquajet ARV 55 water pump in my 05 Monaco Executive with the Large Factory Installed Accumulator. The pump was replaced in 2008 because of a water leak due to corrosion on the two bottom screws of the pump head.. The replacement pump is still in the coach and working flawlessly. I rarely use the campground water as my daily water source and always use the water pump and the water in the fresh water tank when camping. I am hooked up to the Campground water supply to refill the fresh water tank as neededl. In my opinion replacing your existing water pump with the Aquajet 55 ARV is a good choice and I do not believe you would be disappointed. You might also look at installing the smaller size accumulator if you have the room. From what I have researched the smaller accumulator is being used in most of the marine applications and it looks like they are making thier way into the RV market. Just make sure you purchase the 55 ARV pump and not the ES pump. The ARV pump will give you up to 5.3 gallons per minute flow versus the ES pump will only give you 3.5 gallons per minute flow. I do not know where the poor reliablity came in about the Aquajet pumps, but I have had excellent service from the Aquajet ARV pump in my Exec and hope to get that same service from the same pump in our Foretravel. As with any product you can have a bad apple once in a while. It doesn't mean the whole product line is bad. The Remco Aquajet gets very high reviews and other than the upgrade to the electronics of the pump it is the same pump as the previous Aquajets "Happiness Is The Journey, Not The Destination" David & Sandy Pratt, Melbourne FL FORETRAVEL IH-45, 2016 Ford Explorer Bella "The Ratwieler" Yorky and RJ "The Man" Pomeranian
  23. Good morning! Curious how many other Monacoers members are at the FMCA rally in Perry? There are a couple of us parked over in section GG. If you’re here, let us know and maybe we can get together and talk Monacos over a beverage! Scotty
  24. I don't have a part number, but here's an alternative for custom panels that some of our members have used: http://www.custominstrumentpanels.com/monaco.htm http://www.custominstrumentpanels.com/holiday.htm Hope that helps.
  25. Here's what I did in my 2006 diplomat. It does play DVDs...
×
×
  • Create New...