Scotty Hutto

Yeah, because the shunt is not supposed to be more than 5’ from the sense module. I guess you could mount the shunt in the battery cable coming to the inverter, then use a short battery cable from the shunt to the inverter? I’m sure others with a similar year Dynasty / Executive / Signature have done it; hopefully someone will chime in…

Gotcha. Sorry, I misunderstood. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Tom, I’m confused, as I thought the Tecma is a macerating toilet, but - your coach is much newer than mine so it may be different. I have a Tecma in my Diplomat that is macerating, and the sole purpose of the macerating toilet in my coach is that the “rear” toilet is 15 feet or so from the black tank, and the toilet grinds and pumps the waste to the black tank, not leaving it to gravity to do the work. From the symptoms - if it were my older macerating toilet - I would say the macerating unit inside the toilet is clogged or otherwise stopped up.

That is correct. My shunt is in the battery bay (as it must be!), but the sense module is in the next bay over in the inverter bay.

I installed a Battery Maintenance Kit (BMK) on my Magnum Inverter today. The BMK is a single battery bank amp-hour meter that monitors and provides important information about the condition of the battery. This information will let you know how much energy you have available, and let you plan your electrical usage to ensure the battery is not being over-discharged. My understanding is that the BMK will allow the inverter to compute a fairly accurate State Of Charge (SOC). As we intend to travel more and will occasionally boondock (at Harvest Hosts and the like), I wanted more insight into how my battery bank is holding up. Instructions are pretty straightforward forward to install. Annoyingly, Magnum does not include two items required to complete the installation. It would be nice if Magnum (or someone) offered these already made up as an option with the BMK kit. 1. A short negative battery cable. 2. 12v black/red power wiring with a 2A fuse to power the BMK. If you decide to install a BMK, make sure you have those items on hand. Install took about an hour (I made up the battery cable and power wiring prior to starting the install.) Install area before shunt installation: With shunt installed. Blue and orange wires run to BMK. Short negative battery cable run from shunt to negative distribution stud BMK installed by inverter (next to MagWeb, which broadcasts inverter data via the internet to my phone.)

https://fb.watch/ltqvPGfG5T/?mibextid=YCRy0i

The leakage I referred to was simply the coil cleaner dripping from the coils. That should clear up in a couple of hours at most. Our Diplomats don’t have drain lines, so the condensate (drip) pans drain directly onto the roof. If the foam gasket between the roof and the AC unit is compromised, if can allow condensate to drain back into the AC opening. The gasket is not very expensive, but replacing it requires removing the four bolts that hold it down and disconnecting any power and control wires that run through the opening. Shut the AC power off before attempting this! Here’s a decent video explaining it; there are others that go into more detail. The Steele Rubber gaskets he suggests are good, or you can buy the OEM Dometic gaskets if that’s your issue. I can’t vouch for any other brands. Hope this helps!

The two most common reasons for coils freezing are low refrigerant and dirty evaporator coils. As this is a closed system and freon leaks would disable the system, I would suggest the most likely reason is dirty coils. Since this is *likely* a heat pump, both indoor and outdoor coils need to be cleaned. I vacuum the coils, then use coil cleaner spray. Put plastic and towels on the bed / floor / whatever inside the coach under the units. Although most of the coil cleaning is done from the roof, it WILL leak through to the inside. Here is the coil cleaner I used last time. You can find it (or a comparable alternative) at a local hardware store, or get it on Amazon. https://a.co/d/aCK5AW9

I’m pretty sure Chris @throgmartin waited until mine was done before he started offering kits. 🤔

Well, now you know! 🤣 Nope. Fiberglass. Aluminum would be nice, tho!

I had mine installed on the roof (I’ve since removed it). I used #10 x 1-1/2” stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed directly into the Coach roof, and sealed everything up with Dicor self-leveling lap sealant. I had it mounted like that for about 5 years and never had any problem. This is where it was… (I’ve filled the screw holes with Dicor and patched with Eternabond…) I’m doing a roof renovation, so please ignore my dirty roof 🤣.

Not Doug, but in Anchorage it’s overcast, rainy, and about 60°F today; high 40s at night. I think Doug is a bit southeast of here. …tomorrow night I can tell you the temp in Atlanta (home). 😉

@Steven P had a similar problem a while back (last year?). Turned out to be a cable rubbing against the frame (?) had severed a wire. The Allison tech patched the wire in the field and everything has worked since. Simple fix, but hard to find. I’ll message Steven and see if he can log on and give more specifics. Since he also has a 2006 Dip I’m hoping there’s some similarity.

Tim, I can’t speak with authority about the 2007 Endeavor, but the 2006 Diplomat (twin coach) had a 1.5 DIN Magnadyne. I was able to enlarge the hole on the top and bottom to get a double din unit installed. Here’s a link to my install:

Since moving to AWS for our email, we've had a much better experience with our email system. At the risk of repeating myself (and for the benefit of new members since my last email diatribe...) Periodically check your spam folder and if you see any emails there from Monacoers, highlight them and select the option to mark them as not spam. If you ARE NOT getting emails as expected - please send me (Scotty) a private message. (Use the little white envelope thingy in the upper right hand corner) I will work with you to get emails flowing again, if at all possible. Please don't just post it on the forum, as it may or may not be seen... I try to read every post, but I am human... If you are getting TOO MANY emails, please DON'T mark us as spam. You can click on your username in the upper right hand corner, click on account settings, click on notifications, and customize what emails you get, or you can turn them off altogether. If you have trouble, Frank, Tom, and I are happy to help. If your mailbox is full and your email bounces, I'll send you a private message to let you know. If it continues, we'll turn off your emails until it if fixed. If you or your email provider mark monacoers.org emails as spam, we will turn off all emails to that email address to protect the reputation of our email server. We will send you a private message that your emails are turned off. If you don't respond to that message within two month, we will delete your account. Any response at all will prevent your account from being deleted. If we receive complaints that monacoers.org has been marked as spam, and you have not verified your email address or completed registration, your account will be deleted. Most of all, if there's a problem, reach out to your moderators for help. Happy Motorhoming! Scotty

Awesome!

Probably should have sprung for the Source Konis, but my CFO didn’t agree. 🤣

Bilsteins.

Sorry for your loss!

Short version: My Sheppard steering box has very little play (very unusual), so on Van W’s @vanwill52advice I skipped the TRW conversion for *my* coach. Your mileage can (and will) vary. The good thing about a Sheppard steering box is that of its tight, it will likely never wear out in the life of a motorhome. The bad thing is that if it has a lot of play, there’s nothing to be done to fix it; you have to change it out for a TRW I did the Monaco Watts link from Mike Hughes @McHughes (https://monacowatts.com/) and rear cross bars at the same time. That’s really all I’ve done and my coach drives great! Note: I *did* replace the oscillation dampers (shocks), but that had nothing to do with the steering / wandering. My coach would bounce like a trampoline after hitting bumps (bridge transitions, in particular). The new shocks did improve the bouncing a bit. Slowing down and not being in a hurry all the time improved it a lot more. 🤪🤣 PS - For the record, Van’s advice on the order of suspension improvements to correct wandering are (based on my notes from the 2018 Gathering): Steering box Cross braces Watts link

I don’t think there are any “Factory Authorized Service Centers” remaining for Monaco Coach Corporation produced vehicles. I’m sure there are many orphaned motorhome product owners that would love to have a qualified mechanic to work on their coach.

There’s definitely a need. Looks like y’all are in SC…. In the Atlanta area an RV tech charges anywhere from $150-200/hr. I’ve considered something similar, but more along the lines of becoming a certified RV inspector. In the end I’ve just decided to take some diesel mechanic courses at the local community college - for my own edification, and to keep my mind sharp. It only costs about $100/credit hour, so for example the basic diesel mechanic class costs about $300. My point is if he’s passionate about doing this, there may be a less expensive path than $14k. I’m not completely out on taking the inspection certification course, but decided to back-burner that for now.