Dr4Film

Cold Inflation Pressure

When changing tires they lift on the axles evenly from side to side so the body doesn't get tweak. You can raise the body on the air bags then block the frame from the chassis to prevent it from lowering.

My Dynasty came with Goodyear RV G670 front tires, 295/80R22.5. I replaced them with a set of Toyo tires the very same size once I git the coach back to Florida. The rears are all Goodyear Fuel Max 11R-22.5. I have not changed those out yet but it is higher on my list.

Not that I know of. The connector that Monaco normally used in their coaches is either a Molex or a Mate-N-Lok.

@Venturer There are way too many types of brake controllers that require their own connector that it would be impossible to have the ONE that you choose fit the connector that Monaco installed. Cut the Monaco connector and wire in the short pigtail that generally comes with your brake controller.

@diplomat don I am not an expert on driveshafts but I believe his driveshaft is not that long to begin with as the Windsor does not have a tag axle. Plus if only half is missing, I would think the other half would have been flailing around causing all sorts of damage under the coach. I have been attempting to wrap my head around how one could actually lose an entire driveshaft all at once. To me, In order for that to happen, the U-Joints at both ends would have to fail simultaneously. This entire thread has been very strange indeed.

Swapping parts out without identifying exactly what your problem is ends up spending money unnecessarily. Use a known good jumper wire connected to a known good 12 VDC positive source and wire it directly to the 12 V lug on the multiplex then test your system. If it all works as it should then you have to start backtracking the 12 VDC positive wire source to see where the problem lies upstream. If the system doesn't work, then it is downstream from the multiplex switch. The only devices downstream are the relay and the pump.

Now logically thinking, exactly how far can a diesel coach travel without a drive shaft? My guess is not that far unless you were descending a grade. Are you towing a car behind you that you can use to go look for it or rent one? Those are not "off-the-shelf" items so it behooves you to go find it.

Do you have Coach-Net ERS that could tow you to a facility that WOULD work on and replace the parts that are broken? Being a holiday weekend you most likely will have to wait until Monday to find a place open that will work on your problem.

https://rvglassexperts.com/ Video showing some aspects of installation. https://www.dailymotion.com/video/xdutgx

Our 2006 Dynasty Countess III came with an older 40 inch Samsung smart TV mounted above the front dash in an enclosure. That TV took a dump this summer and I chose not to replace it with a 40 inch older technology TV. So I purchased a 43 inch Samsung NEO QLED TV and a swing out bracket to hold the TV. I mounted the bracket to the back of the cabinet, attached the TV and positioned it to fit up against the face of the opening which is obviously not big enough to fit the new larger TV. Someday I might have a carpenter modify the cabinet so the TV would fit flush inside the cabinet but it isn't high on my priority list so far. The 23 inch TV in the bedroom was mounted on the ceiling with a basic bracket. I removed the TV and bracket, then purchased a new Samsung 32 inch QLED TV with a new drop-down bracket that can be locked in the up position. I also purchased new sound bars for each TV as the speakers that come on the TV are basically worthless. There is also a 32 inch TV mounted in the first passenger side storage bay which I have yet to turn on. It is on a slide-out mechanism.

Well, frankly, I have to agree with you. We have owned and now still own a bunch of products made by Samsung that have not caused us any great concern or problems with any of them. As posted earlier, the Samsung RF-197 in the Windsor is still operational and that is 11 years old. The RF-197 in the Dynasty is still operational, (don't know what year it was installed though) but it has to be about the same vintage being the same model. Samsung came out with the upgraded fridge model RF-18 a few years later. After purchasing the house in Florida in 2016, we had to replace all of the appliances in the kitchen due to a few reasons. I researched what Samsung models of each appliance I wanted to install, then went shopping at various locations. The best package deal price was from John's Appliance in Palm Coast. That was back in 2016 and we haven't had any problems with any of the appliances. We have their 23 cu/ft fridge, 30 inch electric stove, over-the-range microwave and a high end dishwasher that you can barely hear when it is running. You actual;y have to get directly in front of the dishwasher to see if it is running or not. We also have many Samsung TV's, mobile phones, i-pads, etc. I guess it just depends on each persons point of view. However, I have no cause for alarm when it comes to Samsung products.

The new design clip from Amazon is actually larger and goes deeper into the drain hole. When I installed the copper wire I made sure to stick it well down into the hole before wrapping it around the heater element. Amazon link - https://tinyurl.com/2cf2hh7s That's what happens when your spellcheck takes over and it doesn't get proofread. Plus you only have a specific amount of time to correct it otherwise it is "cast in stone" and too late.

@JacobA I was one of the first on this forum to have this problem with water collecting under the bins back in the fall of 2012 shortly after having the RF-197 installed. I was located in Valencia Travel Village in Santa Clarita CA at the time. I called for a Samsung service call under warranty. The tech that came out discovered exactly what you had found. He made some calls and found out that there was a "tech service bulletin" about this problem. The fix was to install a larger defrost clip. He ordered two, one for each compartment, fridge and freezer. That solved the problem for many years. However, maybe 8-10 years later I discovered a very small amount of water under the bins one day. I removed the cover and installed a copper wire in addition to the larger defrost clip to supplement the clip. Never saw anymore water ever again. Later I sold the coach, and to my knowledge there hasn't been anymore water found. However, the new coach owners after a year later had to replace a sensor and fan located in the fridge compartment as the fridge would not go into defrost mode. After purchasing the 06 Dynasty and getting it home, I decided to remove the cover in the fridge compartment to see if the larger clip had been installed, NOPE, it was still the smaller factory installed one. I ordered a new larger clip from Amazon and installed that PLUS I put in a copper wire too. Didn't want to deal with water under the bins again.

I watched and photographed almost the entire sequence of the RV shop in Scott LA removing the NotSoCold and installing the Samsung RF-197 in our previous Windsor. The Samsung is mounted on a lowered shelf where the NotSoCold sat. The shop secured the front with two lag screws mounted from below the shelf up and into each of the feet which had been reversed on each corner. Then they installed three lag screws using fender washers at the rear. They went through the fridges base frame and into the newly installed shelf. That fridge hasn't moved a millimeter since it was installed in 2012. The new owners absolutely love the residential fridge. Our Dynasty came with the Samsung RF-197 already installed so I have no idea how it was secured and hopefully I never have to find out.

@Wayne Thomas Nope! You would have to find a reputable shop that is experienced in replacing RV windshields. Normally, your insurance company would have recommendations but you don''t necessarily have to use who they recommend. I prefer RV Glass Solutions/Coach Glass as they have a location only a few hours away from our home in Florida. I drove my Windsor for a number of years that had stone chips and cracks in it until I decided to have it done here in Florida. Luckily, Florida State regulations are such that your insurance company is mandated to replace a damaged windshield at $0 deductible, no cost. My Dynasty came with a repaired chip and one small ding that wasn't repaired. Well, that one has now turned into cracks going in two directions, plus for whatever reason there are now two cracks in the drivers side upper curved corner.

It is common sense to add 5 extra lbs to the minimum psi stated in the load inflation charts for your corner weights. It is also common sense to set the TPMS low psi alert to the charts minimum psi thereby NEVER going below what the recommended psi is for your calculated weights.

These Monaco's are "snowflakes" for sure. My 2006 Dynasty is somewhat similar to others that have posted how their system works but with minor differences. I have three Aqua-Hot zones which are controlled by two 5-Button displays in the coach. To activate the Aqua-Hot you have to set the 5-button control to furnace. The front 5-button CCC controls everything forward of the bathroom. When you turn on the furnace, the heat ex-changer fan located at the front of the coach at the bottom of the front dash will activate blowing hot air at one speed. There is also a mechanical rotary switch located under the kitchen sink counter which control the fans for the two heat ex-changers in the kitchen area. That switch has four settings, Off, Low, Medium, and High. I also have a round auxiliary heat vent located at the bottom of the Jack-Knife Sofa that sits between the kitchen counter and the passengers captains chair. The 5-Button control located on the wall adjacent to the door for the toilet/shower room has two zones. One for the heat ex-changer located inside the toilet/shower room and one for the heat ex-changer located in the bedroom area. The bedroom zone heat ex-changer fan will come on when you select that zone for furnace however, there is a button on the multiplex panel in the toilet/shower room to turn on the heat ex-changer fan for that room. Everything works as it should EXCEPT the toilet/shower room does NOT blow hot air. I have attempted to pound on the check valve to see if that was stuck (common problem) but I had no joy. Eventually I will attempt to see if the pump for that zone is actually working. Fixing that problem is not high on my priority list of things to fix as it is such a small room. When the temperature drops enough we usually break out two small Lasko Ceramic heaters that we use for small local areas. Where the heat ex-changers are located is dependent on your specific floor-plan especially in the bedroom/bathroom areas.

I see the photo, no problem.

Gary, I am not familiar with any relay prior to the water pump multiplex switch on the 12VDC positive wire. The wiring diagram I had posted earlier has no such relay in the schematic. Didn't realize that your water pump wiring is different than most others. Can you elaborate more on your wiring to clear up any confusion?

Yes, they are still available. Here is one source, but I would check around for better pricing. Intellitec 0000145100 10 Amp Monoplex Water Pump Control, Black https://a.co/d/iDDXske I didn't realize you wired the bypass directly to the pump. I assumed you wired the bypass to the 12V terminal as suggested. My mistake. With that said then it sounds like the controller has taken a dump.

@Dennis H He determined that his incoming 12 VDC Positive wire attached to terminal one is faulty. The switches work, the multiplex controller works and his water pump works. He used a bypass wire from his battery to terminal one and everything works as it should. That will get him back home where it will allow him time to figure out why his 12 VDC positive wire is faulty.

Don' focus on the specifics of that particular schematic as chances are each coach is somewhat different for fuses. However, the basics are there. Looking at the schematic from left to right, 12 VDC positive on terminal one, all water pump switches on terminal two, water pump relay and pump on terminal three and a good 12 VDC negative on terminal four. You will have to root out where your fuses are for the the water pump system.

Here is a wiring diagram. Water_Pump_Wiring_2006_Camelot_42-DSQ.pdf

Yes, that wire should have 12 VDC on it. Run a temporary wire from your 12 V battery to that terminal, then turn on a WP switch to see what happens.