Dr4Film

Jim, there are 4 terminals, first one should have a constant 12 VDC power to it, second one is where all of your WP switches are connected, third one is a wire that should go to a HD relay and the fourth is your ground wire. Remove the LOAD wire to test. When you turn on the WP at any of the switches you should have 12 VDC at the LOAD terminal. Have you tested for that? The terminal marked 12V should have 12 VDC power to it ALL the time. This is how that multiplex switch works. When you turn on any of the WP switches a signal is sent to the multiplex which it then sends the 12 VDC power from the 12V terminal to the LOAD terminal.

Is this the multiplex water pump controller you have in your coach?

I love the quality and simplicity of the manual Zip-Dee Awnings. My 1992 Airstream motorhome had them. The Windsor came with manual Carefree awnings and many times I threaten to remove all of them and install the Zip-Dee. I now have electric Girard which come with their own set of problems.

Do you have copies of the RV Coach PDI's that have been distributed on this forum? They include everything you should check if you want to know what works, what doesn't and the condition of each item listed on the PDI.

Is there a set of backup lights on each side where your standard coach lenses are located? Those large lights in your bumper are your rear docking lights. The side docking lights don't help you in the rear when backing into your site.

You should have a set of Docking Lights with a switch on the dash to activate them. The ones in the bumper are most likely those docking lights.

We haven't percolated coffee since 2007 when I used a single use coffee maker called a Senseo in Alaska at my oldest son's In-laws house. Bought one and now have one in the house and one in the coach. We make our own pods with Peets coffee beans. Grind the beans, seal the pod, drop the pod into the Senseo and bingo, the best tasting coffee except for when I am at my younger son's place in Fairbanks where he makes percolated coffee with a commercial Bunn Coffee Maker.

That is a china bowl manual toilet so there is no control board. Your problem is most likely in the foot control which dumps the bowl and adds water as long as you hold your foot on the pedal. Not sure what brand and model it is but hopefully someone with the same vintage coach may chime in with that information. The most popular brands for toilets are Thetford, Dometic and Sealand.

When we are traveling from point A to point B, we always stay someplace free with no hookups. If it is in a warm humid area we always run the generator and AC's to keep cool while on the road. We always start the generator to fix lunch many times. Then the generator is running again just before we retire for the night. In the morning I start the generator again to recharge the house batteries from the nights use plus make coffee and use the microwave. Once the batteries go through Bulk and somewhere into Absorption, I turn off the generator and get the coach ready to roll for the days run. I have no concerns about starting the generator just for a few minutes as it gets plenty or use when not parked on shore hookups. When we are parked for extended periods of time I always exercise the generator once a month for a couple of hours under load.

Yes, there are fuses all over the coach. The owners manual is worthless when it comes to fuse locations. Sometimes they even have in-line fuses to make things even more difficult.

A photo of the toilet would help to identify the model and brand. It's possible that it has the Sealand Magnum Opus toilet unless someone has replaced with something else. The Magnum Opus has a control board with a switch on it to choose three different levels of water that will fill the bowl. L/M/H. Possibly the control board has gone wonky.

Sounds to me like the valve you found may have been a By-Pass valve of some sort. With a full tank of water there is more head pressure but once the tank level dropped there wasn't as much head pressure and the water was going through the By-Pass valve instead of the pump. It's always good to put eyes on your specific system to understand how it all works. When I got our Dynasty home a year ago I was puzzled as to why there was a special connection (aka additional water line) on the Black Tank Back Flush System. Later I discover that I was able to flush the Black Tank even when I wasn't hooked to shore water. Nice feature!

Possibly, either Frank McElroy or Paul Whittle can help you out. @Frank McElroy @pwhittle

WOW!!! $8.68 versus $37.99, I know which one I will be purchasing.

@Tom Cherry Here is a link to the 2003 Windsor where it states that it has the RR8S chassis. https://dreamfindersrv.com/Literature/2003-Monaco-Windsor-Brochure.pdf 2003 was the first year for the Camelot too so that may have played a role on the chassis change for the Windsor. Fred White (RIP) found his newer Windsor (I thought it was a 2005) that had been stored in a subterranean storage area so it had no Thermal Checking on it whatsoever. It was in super great shape. On our visit to his Florida RV home in Lakeland FL back in 2012 after the Monacoers Gathering for a few days, that's when I saw that his Windsor had a Sealand Princess Gourmet Cook-top versus what was in our 2002 Windsor. His was never used and I loved it. That winter I purchased one and swapped out the 3 burner Atwood for the Princess Gourmet cook-top. I miss that old geezer!

@Tom Cherry The last year the Windsor was made with a Semi- Monocoque chassis aka S Chassis was 2002. One of the main reasons I purchased our 2002 Windsor in December of 2003 was for the chassis.

Thanks for the link! Once I get into the project this winter I will post more about it.

Both our previous Windsor and the Dynasty have the fresh water outlet at the very bottom on the side of the water tank which sits on the floor of the tank bay. The water line travels directly to the water pump that is also mounted on the floor. The OP needs to post exactly how his fresh water tank and water pump are plumbed together.

Has anyone made any major modifications to the water pump system by changing it drastically from when it was first put together at the factory? I would look closely at the fresh water tank output water line going to the pump, where it is located, also where is the pump located relative to the tank. Is the pump sucking air once it gets to a lower level? You need to get into these areas to follow the water lines, etc.

On my last trip a week ago from the GA/Florida Welcome Center on I-95 S, I had a similar problem. The drivers side rear would not come up to it's normal ride height. Had to use the HWH leveling system in manual mode just to get the coach home which was about 100 miles. Now that it is parked in our RV driveway, I plan to rebuild all of the air connections on the front and rear tanks, rebuild the HWH 6-pack valves front and rear plus remove and relocate the HWH Air Compressor to an inside bay location. Lots to do this winter.

Monaco and HR twins By saflyer July 26, 2020 in General Motorhome Discussion I would download that post to your Laptop or phone so you will have immediate access to it at anytime.

The 2005 Dynasty Brochure states the See Vision System is an option that is part of the Cockpit area. Don't know much about it. The flip down entertainment center was not found either on the standard or optional list of items. Sorry, no help. The solar panel is on your roof and the Inverter could be located mounted upside-down in one of your storage bays. That's where mine is located.

@waterskier_1 Rick, Coach-Net has been offering a variety of products for many years now, not just Emergency Roadside Service. Brad obviously has their RV Protect aka "Extended Service Warranty" that he is speaking about in his post, NOT the ERS aka 24/7 Protect that others are referring to. Also, Brad is incorrect by stating that they are just a "sales force". When you call the ERS, trust me, you are NOT taking to a salesperson. You are connected to a person working in the ERS department who will first ask you if you are in a SAFE location then will take your information and get you in contact with a dispatch person to arrange whatever you need to get you back on the road. If you are calling about having a repair done, trust me they won't first ask if your are parked in a safe location first. If you go to the Coach-Net website below, they list the products that they offer to RVer's such as Roadside Service aka 24/7 Protect, Tire & Wheel aka Hazard Protect, Service Agreement aka RV Protect, Paint & Fabric Protection aka Finish Protect and Gap Coverage aka Asset Protect. https://coach-net.com/coach-net-membership/

Thanks, lots of information on the Internet regarding that specific code. Surprised that it is not listed in their manual.

Me thinks you should ask that question directly to AAA. I have had Coach-Net for over 13 years with three different tows from as little as 10 miles to well over 200 miles where they had to bring two separate tow trucks. One for the coach and one for the 30 foot cargo trailer. I only had to sign the tow request form after each tow. I have had them also do a bunch of trailer tire change outs and battery jumps. I have no complaints with Coach-Net however I haven't had to use recently so I don't know if things have changed. My last trouble call was last year for a battery jump for my car.