Jim McGarvie

Where are you located, Ernie?

I recently changed the shocks on my 2002 Knight 30PBD. I replaced worn out Konis with Bilsteins from Source Engineering (http://sourcerv.com/) . Those guys are intimately familiar with Monaco suspension and have shocks specifically chosen for your individual coach. I couldn't be happier with the new shocks; they have improved the ride considerably. I did the job myself and it wasn't too bad. In the case of my coach I used the hydraulic leveler jacks to raise the tires off the ground, then supported the coach with jack stands. I used a bottle jack under the axles to make minor adjustments up and down to line up the holes on the coach with those on the shocks. The hardest part was removing the nuts from the bolts at the shock mounts. My 1/2" drive air impact wasn't strong enough, but my neighbor's 1/2" cordless impact was.

Thanks for the tip, Skip.

Thanks Chris. The opening on one side of the hole in the shaft is a little elongated, but the rest of the hole is nice and round. Say, you wouldn't happen to know what kind of pin is used in the spur gear of that system would you? I've been using slotted tension pins, but I noticed the two beveled gears use coiled pins, which I think would be quite a bit stronger. Thanks.

Yep, mine are #2 Roberstons also.

Yeah, I know. I couldn't find the screws I wanted in stainless. But the original screws--also not stainless--lasted 18 years, so if these last that long they will have outlived the coach!

Thanks, Steven. Yes, that is the same as mine. Thanks for letting me know the proper term. As I wrote I already replaced all the old screws with new screws, not rivets, but I did seal it with Pro Flex.

Thanks to all that offered advice. It was very helpful. Turned out to be easier than I expected. I removed the rubber (vinyl? plastic?) insert in the channel, removed the screws ( some of which broke in the process), and removed one section of the metal channel along with the rear-most door that wasn't closing tightly. I never did find anything obviously causing the problem, but I cleaned out the hinge channels, closed one of them up a bit where it looked like it had spread, drilled all new holes in the channel and reattached it and the door with new screws. The door now closes flush with the adjacent door.l

Thanks, Daniel, but ours uses pins rather than bolts. And I have that manual.

Good point, Ken, thanks. There seems to be some controversy about this, but our owner manual states: "Perform the slide-out room operation with the air suspension system full." I confess to violating that on occasion, because our RV garage ceiling is so low I have to air down to get the coach inside. I'll have to keep that in mind.

Good ideas; I will do the same.

Thanks for the info. Do you happen to know what type pin you bought at Fastenal? I've learned the same thing you did, that there are several different types/hardnesses. And admit I could have been a bit more conscientious with the maintenance, but this last failure was immediately following thorough cleaning and lubrication.

The wardrobe slide-out in our bedroom has a Power Gear system, which has sheared the shear pin in the spur gear (the final gear driving the track) three or four times. It hasn't happened for a couple of years until a week ago. I replaced the pin and cleaned and lubed the entire mechanism, and lubed the slide seal. I ran the slide in and out three or four times and it worked much more easily, smoothly and quietly than it has in a long time. But on the way out the new pin sheared. My question is two-fold. First, obviously, is why? Especially today, when the slide was going in and out so easily and smoothly. I'm baffled. My second question is, what kind of pin should I be using? I understand the fuse-type safety function of the pin, so something else doesn't break. But this system doesn't have limit switches, you just hold the switch in or out until the slide stops moving and the motor stalls. If the mechanism can withstand that much force, it seems to me I could use a stronger shear pin. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Ken, I did that modification to my 2002 Knight, and am very happy with it. I don't have handy any files or messages on Monacoers, but here are a couple of links I referred to for my project: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/gas-door-prop-installed-241214.html http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/replacing-entry-door-swing-arm-with-gas-strut-276148.html www.irv2.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=116505&d=1452777977

We have what sounds like what you are describing, but in our case it isn't paint, it is in the graphics tape. We would probably have to try to remove the tape, which I understand is quite difficult.

Thanks for that info, Ray.

Thanks Jim, I'll check those out.

Well, if you remember how you removed it please let me know. I haven't figured that part out yet but I'm afraid you're right that I will have to remove it.

Thanks Ray, tried that. I think the problem this time is up at the top of the door, in the hinge area.

Thanks Jim. I'm afraid you are probably right. A little more work than I was hoping for, but should be doable.

"Trim" is probably the wrong word. It covers the joint between the side and the rear cap. Please see attached photos. In the photos the door is latched closed and the trailing edge of the door is flush as it should be. I can force the lower forward corner of the door in tight, but the upper corner stays out where it is. Thanks for any suggestions!

Well, I drilled out the rivet but couldn't slide the door all the way out of the channel/rail because it is blocked by a vertical trim strip. So I am still stymied. Anyone have any more ideas?

Thanks, Bob, but ours doesn't have piano hinges. It looks like by drilling out a rivet I might be able to slide the door out the end of the channel and see if I can see what is going on.

Our right rear basement compartment door is not closing all the way. the trailing edge is tight and flush, but the leading edge is a good 3/8" from fully closed. Looking from below I can see there is a significant gap between the door and the seal. Looking along the hinge (top) edge it appears the door is well outboard of the adjacent door at the leading edge, but right where it belongs at the trailing edge. I tried removing the forward strut and the door latch, but neither of those helped. Has anyone else encountered this and found a solution? I am considering attempting to remove the door and check out the upper channel where it hinges. Best, Jim

Thanks Doug and Mike, I will check it out.