johncvandoren@gmail.com

My wet bay has two similar molex connectors, and I believe one is for an optional hose reel, although I have no room for any such reel, the other for the shore power cord reel, which i do have in the rear bay.

Is your fridge in a slideout? After finding and replacing all three fuses mentioned above—to no avail—I found a loose Molex connection where it transitions from the chassis to the slide. It was under the floor of the cabinets behind the dining room table. Good luck!

Great-looking dash. What did you finish them with? What are your 4th & 5th cameras? I use a remote GPS module from Garmin (no longer made) as camera 1, then Rear, Left, & Right. I also use a separate rear camera always on the radio screen. Please also advise make & model of your 10” quad-view monitor.

No, it was a NeverCold. I upgraded to an LG residential French door, plugged into the inverter-powered outlet.

My rig had a duplex outlet, with one socket wired from the breaker panel (for the ice maker), and the other wired from the inverter. Check both with multimeter. If inverter socket is hot, use it, ignore the other. You didn’t say what make/model inverter, so can’t tell you how or where to troubleshoot it.

Thanks again. The rear bath is above the inverter cubby & engine, with a wardrobe closet across the back wall to the laundry below the breaker panel. The Romex comes in & goes out high up behind the panel. I’ll have to pull & poke around to find the path.

Thanks, where is it “open”? I can see where it goes into the tube up from cubby into the outer wall, but cannot find the path from there to the breaker panel.

Separate related question: how do you access the cable run from the main breaker panel to the inverter? In my 06 Knight, the panel is above the laundry near the road side in the rear bathroom, and the inverter is in the rear curb-side cubby.

You may find what U need in tech tips

My 06 Monaco Knight with Power Gear (automatic) leveling has the “brain” controller on the ceiling of the second from front cubby on the curb side.

If not already covered, I’d suggest you first check the circuit breaker on the Gen Set.

How do you plan to “reconfigure” a 3-wire plug with a 4-wire receptacle? I take it your RV is a 50A rig. I still think you should have an RV qualified electrician install a 50A outlet at your house, upgrading the breaker to 50 and the wires to AWG6/3 + ground. Pulling 50A through AWG10/2 (30A) wiring can burn down your house!

Whatever sort of pigtail you used, but it won’t correct your problem. I think you meant you’re going to get a volt meter—some called multi-meter, not an outlet. Once you confirm our suspicions of 240VAC* on that old style dryer outlet, you may want (an electrician) to replace & rewire it for a 30A 120VAV RV outlet, which requires one hot, one neutral, & a ground. Not something to try as your first DIY electrical project!🤪 *set meter for 600VAC, measure across one angled leg and the top slot—should read 110-120VAC. Then measure across the two angled slots & you’ll likely find it reads 220-240VAC. STOP RIGHT THERE & hire an electrician.

You’re lucky if all that got fried was your fridge control board! I’ve read some horror stories. In one, an adult son had a 50A RV outlet at his house for his parents’ rig installed by a licensed electrician. Unfortunately he was not an RV electrician, so: Poof! 240VAC fried everything in rhe RV—Fridge, TVs, ACs, & more!🤮

Another good point. Guess that’s why the air intake is 12’ higher than the exhaust pipe! Wonder how effective are those spring-loaded baffles designed to allow only one-way air flow? Will re-measure & consider all options.

Chuck, I appreciate your input. I hadn’t thought of that. The bottom of the hidden cavity is above, behind and isolated from the top of radiator, accessible from the area next to the coolant overflow tank; and 6-8’ above and away from the exhaust which exits down & out the lower left side. Do you think I’ll still have a problem? BTW: If I vented out the side, the vent cap Would be directly above the exhaust, albeit 8-10’ up.

I’m noT going to vent out the side. I’m venting straight out the back of the closet/laundry into a cavity between the closet and the rear cap about 16” to the rear. What I’m trying to learn is how to open that cavity at the bottom so the exhaust will escape into the open air. John

Dennis, it’s a new install of a vented Splendide. My 06 Knight was pre-wired & plumbed for a ventless unit, so I’m trying to find the correct path for the vent through the back closet wall. It is the cavity behind the wall that is enclosed. There’s about 16” between that wall and the rear cap, but I don’t want to drill through the cap, let alone the emblems there-on.

The cavity behind the laundry is enclosed on all sides, top, & bottom. Has anyone been successful in opening a 4-6” hole I’m the bottom to let the air & lint out?

Larry, I appreciate the time you took to share your information with me. My 120VAC including the 30A 10/2 Romex do go into the rear cap cavity. Any idea how to find out which way it goes from there? I doubt it goes in any frame rails, since the Romex goes UP from the inverter through the top of the inverter cubby in the area of the outer wall. John

Gotcha Thsnks

Ray, Thank you. I’m glad you were able to find a solution. Since my breaker panel is in the rear bathroom roadside, and the inverter is in the rear-most cubby curbside (below the tub/shower) I rather doubt the 10/2 Romex made the 90’ round trip. I’ll keep looking. John

Larry, Thank you for this information. Yes, it does look as though the wires go into the rear cap. I’d love to be able to look inside there to see where exactly the 10/2 Romex goes. Maybe I’ll get lucky while installing the dryer vent into and down from the area below the panel, using my Ryobi inspection scope to look around. 🤞🏻 I’ll post whatever I find. John

Logistically, I need to be able to pull the tube down, attach to soffit vent cap, then push assembly bacK up & Affix to underside. So I’m thinking semi-rigid aluminum tubing. If i can figure out how to use straight solid pipe, I will. Thanks for your advice. John

Yes, I did see that post. Thank you. Wiring diagrams show connections between devices, but not the physical path of the wires between those connections/devices.