johncvandoren@gmail.com

No I don’t see any above mine.

I bought a 4-6” soffit vent cap with spring-loaded baffles, and will get a 6” hole saw tomorrow. If I can get to the bottom of the cavity, a 6” hole may provide sufficient access to fit & affix the elbow with 4” aluminum pipe attached.

Yea, I know I had to drill straight out from the dryer vent, as I didn’t want to go out through the side wall of the RV. I am assembling the various elbows, baffle, and connections to carry it down froM within the cavity. The challenge is how to get the elbow up into that cavity. Once the elbow is at the back side of the 4” hole, I have a course threaded coupling to connect it through the hole. I won’t be able to get one arm, let alone two, Into that cavity, without cutting a wider access hole in the laundry back wall. Just wondering if anyone else has done this, so I can learn from them. Thank you. john

For those who have installed the laundry at the rear bathroom wall (vs side wall), how did you vent the dryer? I have drilled the 4' hole in the back wall, into what appears to be an enclosed space. Now I need to get the hot, moist air & lint out into open space or to the ground, without drilling a hole through the rear cap (and the "Knight" lettering). Any suggestions (and pictures?) would be greatly appreciated. John 06 Knight 40DFD

Does anyone know the route for the 30A (10/2) Romex from the breaker panel to the inverter? Rear bath tub/shower is above the inverter cubby. Breaker panel is on other side of closet in bathroom. John Van Doren 06 Knight 40DFD

Can you send to me also? John Van Doren johncvandoren@gmail.com 06 Knight 40DFD Thanks. BTW: while diagrams are great for showing which wires go to which connections, they are not the same as showing the route between connections. For example, I'd like to know the path that the 10/2 Romex takes from the 120VAC breaker panel (Rear bath upper roadside cabinet above the laundry) to the Inverter (Rear-most curbside cubby below the tub/shower. From what I can see, the orange (30A) and a couple of yellow (20A) Romex go into the upper outer wall of the rear cubby and disappear. I assume one 20A goes to the Microwave, and one 20A to the other inverter-supplied outlets, such as TV, refrigerator, etc. I glanced behind the breaker panel and saw that the 30A Romex goes up and through the back wall rather high up and disappears. No conduit is seen from inside the engine compartment, so I don't know how it gets to the Inverter. I want to upgrade the inverter/charger's power supply from 30A to 50A, and don't want to pay shop labor rates to find the path and pull the wire.

Chet, the standalone faucet assembly is available online, but a bit pricey. I replaced mine with a dual-temp hot tap & chilled water dispenser. Single faucets run about $100+, while duals run about $200-250.

Keep in mind the two separate electrical systems—things they run off 120VAC, and things that run off 12VDC. The “thump” sound is likely from your ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) that takes power from either the generator or shore power and delivers it to the coach. Mine thumps when it turns on and passes the 120VAC to the coach. There are also two battery banks—“house” and “chassis”, the latter of which is to start your engine. There should be a solenoid-type device in the battery compartment that allows for the charging of either or both banks off the inverter/charger and/or the alternator. There should also be a “Batt Boost” momentary rocker switch on the left driver’s console. It’s designed to allow for short term “jumping” of the starter batteries off your house batteries. The “salesman’s switch” by the door cuts off most 12V items like lights and control panels including fridge, etc. and has nothing to do with your 120VAC system—other than the fact your EMS (Energy Management System” panel will also go dark. I, too, would head to Tennessee! Good luck.

No, but I should have! I bought a Victron to save $1K, only to find out it’s built-in AGS can’t start an Onan without three additional relays that I’m still trying to figure out. Also, the AC Out 2 is not inverted, so I had to move the Microwave to AC Out 1.

Where are you located? PM me if you're interested in a slightly used Magnum ME2012 and RC50 control panel, which I replaced with Victron 3000 inverter/charger when I installed my residential refrigerator and Battle Born LiFePo batteries.

Thanks Rick. I’ve seen a couple of drawings, but they’re Greek to me, and they didn’t show what was connected to what or where. Of course, to an electrical engineer like yourself, I’m sure they make sense. Hope to see you at a rally again soon. John

Anyone have success using a Victron Multi inverter’s built-in AGS function? Seems the installed relays are simple NO & NC relays, and are not able to perform the “pulse start & stop” functions.

Where do they sell that closed-cell foam? Mine has both black or silver colored versions, depending on location.

At least as far back as 2002, Windsor has a Smart Steering Wheel, whereas my 2006 Knight has the old Dumb Steering Wheel.

Jim, This may work. My existing is hollow, without the black background. But this looks pretty good. Thank you.

I'm in search of a raised chrome Monaco Logo emblem for the front of my 06 Knight 40DFD. So far on Ebay I've found a 7" X 9" Chrome decal, but I need the 5" X 7" raised chromed plastic logo.

Stephen, This looks like my 4-camera Weldex color monitor. I’ve been using a discontinued Garmin module for which I can still get updates on an SD card. It serves as Camera 1. The rear view camera is #2, and I can pair to view GPS & Rear as PIP. At some point Garmin may stop supporting the module. Does anyone know of any other make or model that will feed my Weldex monitor. On another note, I also have the Scan Gauge D, are you able to view that in the Weldex, or is that some system? John ’06 Knight 40DFD

Do any of you test the pedestal outlet before plugging in? I made a tester using a short 50A plug and a two-gang outlet box (separating the two “legs”) and allowing use of a simple Greenlee plug-in tester to identify any polarity, open neutral or ground issues before plugging in and relying on my Hard-wired SurgeGuard ATS/Surge Protector.

How do I contact Chuck, and where can I get the spare bolt, or the Emergency Repair Kit to carry on the road?

Good time to switch to LED, if not there already. Just be mindful that LEDs require correct polarity. If std bulbs work, but not LED, switch wires @ the fixture.

It allows minor adjustment below full tank pressure, allowing me to use on a small “green tank” grill. I now have the “Baby Weber” so may now remove the hi-flow regulator & use the oneS on the grill and fire ring.

I also found out I could not double-regulate the gas supply, so I did something different. I added a T at the main rank (before the house regulator) and ran 1/2” copper from there* to my battery compartment, and installed a shutoff, high-flow regulator, and a quick connect. I run a 24’ hose thru the 2” hole in the bottom of the battery cubby to my grill. *the house propane tank is mid-ships on driver’s side, batteries are on the passenger side, second cubby from the rear.

The inventor of AutoCorrect has died. May he Restaurant in peace!

Wow! U hv room for 100’? Great! I added a MoreRyde electric reel in the cubby but it is hard-wired to the SurgeGard ATS, & only holds 34’ John 06 Knight 40DFD

Paul, Can you add a link to the 7/8” diameter cord you bought? How much longer is the new cord? John ’06 Knight 40DFD