moxy1962

Brochure for 01 executive lists 295 75 22.5 as stock tire, not sure what brochure you are reading, the coaches dimensions and capacities are identical to my late 2001 Monaco Chancellor which only came in one configuration with tag axle, regardless, commercial truck tires are not Designed with motorhomes or Ride comfort in mind

Well my tag axle coach runs 275 80 22.5 all around, the 295s on the 01 coach we’re likely 295 75 22.5s, even if they were 295 80 22.5s with would run min pressure of 80psi conversely 11r22.5’s would run at 95 psi, so whether it’s 12 Or 15 psi cold, that has huge impact on ride quality, add in the fact that the RV tires are designed for ride comfort, going to commercial truck tire to save a few bucks isn’t a wise choice, drive tag or steers.

Are they? 11R22.5 vs 275 80 22.5 I don’t believe have same capacity at any pressure, seeing as non tag coaches typically run at or near axle limits going to 11r’s with 1000lbs less capacity may not be a good bet seeing as at a minimum they require significantly air pressure for same load like 105psi in g670 275 80 22.5 vs 125 in 11r22.5. That’s quite a difference in ride quality

When I'm slow speed maneuvering I throw the switch and take the weight off the tags

Those large axle spread tires skid significantly more that tag axles

I expect your coach is well balanced you weights are very close to limits, wouldn’t take much imbalance to overload your individual hubs and tire combinations

I replace my Leece Neville with a newer leece neville self exciting solid state 210 Amp alternator, the alternator does require a voltage signals from the batteries that tells it what the charge rate should be, it has the ac Terminal for alt light and tach, to solve the issue of the 12 volt signal that was not present on the positive cable running from alternator to battery isolator, I used the original ignition circuit lead that excited the old style alternator, in my coach that piggy backed of the fuel boost pump, now if I just put That wire to the battery terminal it would work but would supply power to the entire ignition circuit constantly as long as the alternator was turning, so I just put a diode in line that stops any voltage from the alternator from energizing the circuit, simple 5 dollar fix that allows virtually any alternator to be used that will fit, been 4 months,1000s of kilometres and this fix requires a little solder a piece of shrink tube and a $5 diode. No rewiring no different isolators or electronics. The original system works great and has for 20 years, I didn’t see the need To mess with it.

I would be interested in the black u shaped trim that holds the wood panels to the fridge particularly around the right side freezer door, happy to pay for your time, the part and shipping, they are NLA.

TPMS didn’t fail, it just didn’t warn of impending failure, which im not sure it could have, tire suffered a structural failure due to exposed steel cords inside tire rusting out and failing

I run between 105 and 110kph, which is max 68 mph, coach seems to cruise well at that speed, just so happens that is 10% below tires recommended speed, for me it is a nice relaxed speed, typically I am one of the slower rigs on the road, when I do get passed by other coaches I’ll admit I shake my head that anyone would drive 70 plus mph in something so big and cumbersome. I have tpms and while I get comfort from some information from it, it never warned of my failure of front steer tire on I81 northbound few years back

Incredible, to tear the superstructure from the frame must have been an incredible amount of force, the tree clearly deflected the coach, how fast would it have had to of been travelling to spin her around and send the chassis backwards another hundred feet from the superstructure, just incredible. I would hope my Dynasty would fair better in a similar collision. I’ve had a steer tire blow if that’s what caused the departure from the road, in my blow out I was able to maintain control at highway speed and get to the shoulder safely, I’ve often wondered if the fact I had a car hauler behind me help maintain control. Regardless sad day for our RV community 😔

What are dimensions of old muffler?

I never said it did? Never once said anything about exceeding factory set parameters, all I ever said was stock exhaust or not, my machine makes 28 lbs of boost, anyone who puts free flowing exhaust will see no gains in boost or performance, just louder, perhaps re reading my posts would add some clarity

So you are trying to say that the engine uses the same amount of fuel at idle as it does at full throttle, that no matter what the demand, more power needs more fuel, afr and egt would say you are wrong, not sure where you are going with your assumption, but to make more power the engine burns more fuel, with turbo charged applications the demand for fuel increases dramatically to maintain an afr of between 14-1 and 16 - 1 for turbo applications, if the ecm did not add addition fuel the engine would lose power, there is a balance between egt, pollution and power , the ecm ensures clean burning powerful reasonable egt running, simple as that, the engine burns more fuel the higher the boost, your repeated comment that it doesn’t is wrong, I’ve never said once anything about exceeding engine parameters with respect to boost, fuel pressure or metering,

Diesels run lean by design, excessive lean condition will not make more power no, but that’s not what I said, my ISL will maintain the afr based on available boost, if my boost is lower due to a restrictive exhaust or intake the afr will stay at optimum and that would mean less fuel and air, which means less power, which some may feel or notice. The point of my Comment is, the stock exhaust set up is sufficient to allow max boost on my engine, therefore allowing the most Efficient afr, no need to worry about restrictive factory exhaust, it is fine. Any seat of the pants feeling some may feel is likely about the sound not about the power.

Boost goes up so does fuel metering, fuel alone doesn't create power hense the need for the turbo, fuel without air or in this case forced induction doesn’t do squat but you know that, so if my boost increases so does the fuel delivered to each cylinder, conversely when the boost drops the fueL decreases, more boost, more fuel, more power, can’t change the laws of physics my friend, You ever notice that performance set ups for Diesel engines include intake, exhaust and turbos? if you can’t get the exhaust out you can’t get fresh air and fuel in, exhaust is everything

A lot of coach owners report better performance with straight through exhaust or straight through mufflers, and comment the performance gains are worth the extra exhaust noise, I’ve read less turns, bigger diameter, Less restrictive mufflers or resonators allow exhaust gases to exit vehicle quicker using less energy to pump them increasing turbo efficiency. . My ISL has 6 bends in the exhaust 3 of them are 90 degree bends, 3 are 45’s, travelling about 10 or 12 feet, by all accounts fairly restrictive exhaust set up, yet as I have indicated when compared to the rusted out exhaust with substantial holes in turbo down pipe, there was 0 loss in boost with complete new factory style muffler and piping which by all accounts is the measuring stick for turbo diesel performance, and it’s quiet.

Bolt on exhaust modifications are a great way to get more horsepower out of your turbocharged vehicle. ... Turbo back exhausts accomplish this increased flow by widening the pipe size and removing restrictive factory bends. With this type of modification you will immediately notice an HP gain.

Waste gates control turbo boost as far as I know

As far as I know, boost is created by exhaust passing through the turbo, spinning impellers, the faster the exhaust the higher boost, if there are restrictions I expect that slows things down and creates less boost, my point was the with literally no restriction by virtue of my rotted out exhaust I achieved 28 lbs, once proper exhaust was installed I still made 28 lbs, so in my mind the only savings would be weight using a smaller muffler/resonator, with a likely increase in exhaust noise. 28lbs of boost is 28lbs of boost, as far as exhaust efficiency past the turbo, as far as I know it doesn’t matter after the turbo what happens as long as exhaust can exit unrestricted, which I would say judging by my results or does

ISL IMG_6886.MOV

01 dynasty chancellor tag axle

Thought about going to something smaller, less restrictive and cheaper but I can tell you now that after a 20 mile drive that with some rather large holes in the exhaust pipes and a less than complete muffler I got around 28lbs of boost and the exhaust was very loud. With the new factory original system installed, the coach is quiet as a mouse with the pedal down and still getting 28lbs of boost, ive always been a believer that they knew what they were doing for the most part when they built these rigs, engine performance and noise abatement were obviously on their minds when the put bigger motors and huge mufflers in them, so, for me stock ISL and garbage can size muffler keeps me at the speed limit towing 10k car hauler in the middle lane and can sneak in anywhere pretty quietly 😊

Cut off disc and grinder, didn’t try to save any of the 20 year old hardware

Complete my exhaust replacement today, new brackets, flex pipe, elbow replaced 2’ of down pipe, replaced 45* elbow at muffler, muffler, $800 in parts a d about 10 hours of my time, IMG_6887.MOV