jacwjames

Advice from most people is not too fool with it. 
But sometime you gotta do what you gotta do >>>>   I had a bad area passenger side starting below the upper beltline all the way to the lower beltline.  This was caused by a bad section of upper beltline where the rear cap met the roof, there was a hump in the fiberglass and my guess is the caulk failed there allowing water into the beltline which worked its way under the fiberglass side and all the way down the beltline going down the rear.   
I did get advise from a RV tech that worked at a large repair shop that worked on RV's.  He came over and looked at my issue and I told him what I wanted to do and he said it "might" work.  He said that on smaller spots they would drill a hole into the area from the outside and then inject epoxy behind the fiberglass and with the RV close to a solid structure use a large piece of plywood against the RV and 2X4's jammed against the structure push against the side of the RV and let it cure. 
Here is a thread I did, it was a big job, overall turned out OK except............. read the thread
I used a two part West epoxy,  There are others.  But the only problem with epoxy is that you really don't have any control where it goes when you are pouring it in.  Every hole/crack has to be sealed.  I had anticipated this (I thought).  I spent time taping lower openings and seams.  My first "pour" the epoxy came out into the void at the back of the coach, running down on the inside in an area I couldn't access to try and seal.  So I stopped and put pressure on the outside of the coach and let it cure.  That sealed this area for me to continue doing pours, doing about 1-2 ft at a time, putting pressure on the outside of the flat form I made.  The reason I did it this way was that the epoxy would have built up pressure behind the fiberglass and left a bulge in the fiberglass.   The last area I did I actually injected it using a long piece of copper tubing, a plastic bottle, and an air nozzle to push the epoxy out of the bottle, through the tubing up into the void. 
The other thing is that if you get epoxy on anything you have to get it off ASAP because if it cures you are screwed >>>> Epoxy Oh NO!!  In my case the epoxy had run out of a hole where the dryer vent was under the plastic I had put on the side of the motorhome.  Didn't see it until I was done.  No way to get it off, ended up scraping it off, sanding and then repainting the area.  The paint turned out good but the clear coat didn't blend with the old.  Not that noticable but I see it every time I look for it. 
One issue is that the way the coach is constructed.  The fiberglass is attached to the side first.  The side is then attached to the chassis and the motorhome with probably the read cap as the inside is assembled.  At some point the roof is dropped onto the coach.  Both the rear cap and the roof overlap the side fiberglass.  There is not way to get epoxy behind the side fiberglass without drilling a bunch of holes at the seam.
 
 

The first time I did our coach I used a snap lock type laminate floor.   It actually held up well but unfortunately I had a leak that caused soft floor and had to tear it all up again but was surprised the floor was still in good shape, when I installed the snap lock I did use a glue in the snap lock joints (not on the floor) also and it helped as the flooring came out in pretty large section.  This was floating floor.
This time I went back with LVP Pergo from Lowes, the salesman said it was the best the offered, time will tell.  This is a floating floor and so far so good.  Here's a link I did on the install, not fixing the floor wasn't an option, turned out to be ~4X6' area right behind the passenger seat.  After fixing the floor putting in the LVP just took time. 
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/new-flooring-tricks-564571.html

X2 on this.  If you still have the old door it can either be fixed or duplicated.  A good body shop can probably make or point you to someone who can.  A shop that works of car restorations of modifications probably can make.
I was lucky when my wife sideswiped a pole pulling out of a fueling station.  The pole was the same height as the bottom of the slide.  I slight bent the bottom slide extrusion but it pancaked the top hinge system on 2 doors.  Two doors had heavy scratches and one small door was bent in and slightly warped.  I pulled them all off and was able to get the two pieces of the hinge system.  The small door I clamped to a heavy bench and used large pipe wrenches with the wood to protect the door and was able to bend the door back straight and get most of the large dent out.  Had to use a small amount of bondo fix the remainder of the dent.  Then painting the 3 colors.  Overall turned out pretty good. 

I got mine at Advanced Auto also, ordered them from the local store and they had them the next day.  If I were doing it I'd replace all of them and be done with it.
Also, while I was working on my air leaks I posted a picture on IRV2 and one of the more senior members stated that they were upside down.  The drawing that I had showed them with the cap pointing up.  Did a bunch of searching and found installation instructions>> sure enough the cap should be pointing down.  Had to back and rotate the four that I had installed. 
 
PPV installation instructions.pdf

Here's a video of someone with the same problem. 
So if your whole handle pulled out like that he was able get the gate out buy cutting the assemble and accessing with a needle nose vise grip.

I live in E TN so temps get too extreme but occasionally we will have temps down below zero.  Last year I didn't winterize, first year that I've had a garage to park it in and did do some work on the motorhome.  I let the system heat on and kept a cube heater in the LR area.  I was able to monitor temps via the MicroAir thermostat.  I din't know if I'd be taking a trip so it seemed convenient to just leave it plugged in.   Never had any problems other then pretty high electric bills. 
Being the penny pincher I am I wanted to figure out a way to conserve power.  Last month I did put a Kilowatt monitor on the coach to see what was the power usage leaving the inverter and charger doing it's thing.  It wasn't a lot of power but it does add up. 
So the current plan would be to let the caoch plugged in using a timer, charging the batteries 4 hrs a week (more if necessary)  But if this will shorten the life of the batteries I'll consider getting some sort of battery maintainer. 
 
FWIW, when I went out to the coach to turn on the disconnects and turn off the inverter there is a little printed warning right under the switch that warns that the charger will stay on.  Guess I should have looked at that first. 
 

My radio didn't work when I first bought my coach in 2008, luckily the CD worked so I had something. 
I looked around for a unit that hat the remote pod connector and just ultimately bought a newer model of the Sony that still had the remote connector.   That one crapped out after about 4 years and upgraded to a slightly newer Sony that still had the remote pod connector, that one lasted slightly longer but at some point the quit making units with that connector.  So the last time my radio fail (yes again, on my 4th replacement) I just bought a used Sony with the connector so I could use the remote in the bedroom.   I bought a Sony CDX-GT740UI which was the last model of a Sony I found with the connector, I paid $30. 
I really like the remote in the bedroom.  I usually have the radio or CD on when I go to bed and just reach up and shut if off when I start falling asleep. 
But I guess at some point I'll have to do something else but at this point This Old Dog don't want to learn new tricks.

Attached is both a VIN decoder and a SN decoder that will have what your coach is.
Copy of VINBreakdown from Monaco Website.xlsx Copy of SerialNumberBreakdown from Monaco Website.xlsx

Sounds like your generator is not making power.  Try flipping the breaker that is on the front drivers side of the generator near the start switch OFF then ON.  Ours does this occasionally.
If you have the Intellitec EMS load setting system it should show generator running. 
 

Here's a picture of the 4 of the relays that I labeled. 
The top one is a brake sense relay for the transmission
The lower one is the Alt Fail relay
The lower right one  I labeled DLR which I think is normally used in Canada, this is empty. 
The fourth is on the left hand side of the panel and already had a label for Driving lights, this normally would connect the high beams and lower driving lights together but I removed the relay and used a jumper wire so now I can have the high beam lights on separate from the lower lights.   

OK
I went and checked mine and the step lights are controlled by the fuse labeled Service Lts,  Not sure what that all includes.  It is a 15 amp fuse in the #6 slot, yours may be different. 
If the fuse is good I'd check the step lights themselves to make sure the bulb isn't burned out and that the wire nuts and ground connections are good. 

Well I was able (I think) able to get the display to work. 
One thing that happen with me taking it in and out to check, with the heavy 8 awg wires attached there was a lot of pressure on the terminal block soldered to the PC board and it broke loose,  IMHO, it must not have been soldered very good.  I had electric soldering gun but it didn't want to get the job done so I went to Lowes and bought a small Bensomatic torch with tips.  I redrilled the pin holes the terminal block mated to so they were fully seated and then used the new torch to solder the pins back in place.  The new torch made quick work of it and it seems more secure when I was done.  Put the panel back in place but was still not getting accurate reading on chassis battery voltage but previous to this I had removed the battery terminal to install the sense wire for the Victron BMV 712 so I thought I'd check that.  It fixed the problem both chassis and house are showing 13.4 volts on the display,  For now I'll assume the solar charger portion is working, I'll be moving the coach in the next day or two to do an oil change and lube so I'll pull it when the sun is shining to confirm. 
So this problem for now appears to be solved.
FWIW, when I was doing searches I found the Bluesky makes a direct replacement for the Heliothorpe, I found one for. $140 so I may go that route if needed until I decide long term if I want to do a solar upgrade.  Not sure if this unit has the dual output house/chassis but I don't see that as a problem.