rpasetto

Alignment done at Josams yesterday, new tires put on front.  The steer safe has been removed at Barry's recommendation.  Drives a lot straighter now.

Anyone want a steer safe?   Let me know.

David Pratt helped me enormously this morning!

Following David's advice, I removed the 15amp fuse labelled "brake light" and bingo! brake lights went out and stayed out with IGN on. I changed the old relay, guessing it was stuck, then put the fuse back. Turned the key on again and the brake lights were still out. 

Note to admin or moderator: 

Initially, I thought the ABS-Fault and the Brake-Light issue were related.  Now I am convinced they are not.  Sorry for conflating the two topics, so if you think it's best, split it into two threads.

STatus now: ABS fault light still on... and brake lights are off with key on unless brake pedal is pressed.

6 hours ago, Ivan K said:

The pancake type switches in your picture are low pressure brake switches, normally open on our rig, the cylinder type are cruise cancel, normally closed.

So itf I understand correctly, those are the ones controlling brake lights (?) ..  If they're in parallel, (per Tom's post) just one shorted out could cause brake lights to be staying on???

Note to @Tom Cherry,  I am confused about this, also.  If the switches are in parallel, then only one would need to be working for brake lights to go on.  The upper brake/taillights, on each side, and the center "cyclops light" are now on whenever IGN is on.  The (upside down) lower ones are now never on even when brake is pressed. (I'm told they are from an early 2000s Chevvy pickup).  Pictures below.

IGN ON (only):  Top bulb lights on each side plus cyclops in middle

Headlight switch ON (only):  All tail light bulbs light, noticeably dinmmer than brake light...

Headlight switch ON and brakes applied:  All tail light bulbs light, Brake Lights on top.

Headlight switch and IGN on:  

It appears that upper brake lights (only) light with either ign on or brake application.  I can see filaments lit for every light which shows as "on" in pictures.  Apparently the Taillights work normally.

Not sure what the cause is.  Would sure help to know which of the pressure switches(?) in first post are associated with brakes.

Attached the PDF of the   monaco air system schematic.2006 Monaco Signature Air system schematic.pdf

Sort of an update: 

My upper brake lights are Now on whenever the engine is running or IGN is on.  THis started right as I began a trip.  Before this the lower brake lights weren't working and I thought it might be bulbs; not unsure.

The two "pressure switches" from the above picture read Infinity on an ohm meter whether the brake pedal is pressed or not.  I removed wires from each amd measured voltages,  Zero with IGN off and 5.45v with IGN ON.

I was guessing these are associated with the braking system and were the brake light switches from the diagram below the picture, which comes from a Monaco air system diagram.  Not sure now.  Disconnecting didn't change the ABS light which is also on so I think these may be related.

At Josams for alignment and some other chassis work.  Hoping they can solve this dilemma.  

I finally got back to this and not it's working well.  Clamped a medium-size adjustable wrench to the "angle bracket" and used a big wrench for enough leverage to bend the bracket to 45 degrees so the adjustment bolt fits into the "vee" of the angle iron, inside the step.  I adjusted the bolt to its max extension so it stops the step before the arms go over-center.  I think there are a few worn bushings to deal with in the future.  Never got rubber stoppers, but, had some reinforced rubber fuel line which I forced over the end of the bolt.

I'll spray some more dry lube on the slides.  They probably need replacement but for now...  another check box on the to-do list.

Wondering if the BlinkCode chart I used was the correct one.  Had a mechanic connect diagnostic computer today and he did not get the fault I posted above.  Instead his showed a brake light switch fault so I'm thinking that I used th wrong chart. (???) My air system diagram shows there are two brake switches up front, see below.  (Curiously only the brake lights on the upper taillights work.)

Now I need to test to see which one... maybe replace both.  (???)

ABS light on so I followed the blink code retrieval procedure in the Owner manual.  I get 12 blinks followed by 2, then 12 followed by 1.

If I have the correct manual and I'm interpreting it correctly the codes are:

12 1 There is a short between the release solenoid and supply voltage Left Rear Rear Axle Valve (page 34)
12 2 There is a short between the release solenoid and ground

From the descriptions my first thought would be a bad ABS sensor on left rear.  Then I looked at Pg 34 which appears to be about the connectors to the pressure modulator valve.   (The wiring diagram I have doesn't tewll me where these connectors are located. )

What is most likely to have gone bad?  Should I start at the wiring to the ABS sensor at the left rear... or at the PMV? ... or elsewhere in wiring harness?

Found the switch On some sort of a manifold coming from the Aux Air Pump...  Its on this fitting (manifold?) mounted toward driver side behind the front axle.  The Ping tank is probably nearby, somewhere above.  Guessing it's on a 1/4" NPT male fitting; I'll pick one up... hopefully I will only need to crawl undernesath once (if I guess the thread size right 😉

I notice the pump is a PacBreke product... wondering if its OEM or if a PO replaced the original.

4 hours ago, Bill R said:

I installed a pressure gauge on my ping tank so I could monitor the compressor, switch, and tank operation.  Knowing the pressure of the tank will help you trouble shoot the issue.  As mentioned above, it is important to drain this tank at least monthly, or more often if it is coming on frequently.

 

An '06 with Valid air leveling?  I thought Monaco used HWH up thru '06, then started with Valid in '07.

Thanks Garry, John and Don.  I appreciate the help.

The Valid Air system seemed to be working fine in manual and automatic mode.  On occasion it would re-level and I could hear the air compressor run for a while and then stop.  In recent days this seems to have become more frequent; so "chase down air leaks" went on the project list.

Today however, something wierd happened; nearing what I thought was the end of it's cycle a "Pop-Off" sound was heard, and then the pump continued.  This happened repeatedly so I shut the system off.  Later testing it I doscovered it would "pop" a few times and then "settle down" and shut off. (The pop sounded a little like the air dryer system going off, but I knew it had to be different.)

Reading the Valid "Installation/Service Manual" ; thinking of possibilities (see screen shot from page 26 below):

1.  The "pressure relief valve" on the air tank is defective and going off too soon... sometimes.

2.  The "pressure switch" on one of the six packs (?not sure which one?) is defective and (sometimes) not shutting off when it should.

Not sure of what else it could be.  From the pump sound it seems the compressor is mounted above/behind the steer axle.   Pressure valve sounds like it's somewhere above drive axle.  Not clear from diagram which 6-pack has the pressure switch... or do both?  Not sure which side or center would be best place to look.  

Crawling under is the least fun thing for me [🙂] so it would be good to know in advance which part is likely to need replacement and where to crawl.   Internet search today didn't turn up either part; I will call PowerGear next week.

Have a great Easter everyone.

@LakeBob Thank you!

2 hours ago, rpasetto said:

Going through the AC duct gets most of the way.  What I'm puzzled by is how to get from the rear cap area to the rear AC duct. Also, how to get from the front of the AC duct to the underdash/camera area.  

3 hours ago, LakeBob said:

I ran a new Sony cable through the AC duct to the rear camera.  Not ideal, however only took about 30 minutes.   See previous post. 

You can purchase pigtails to interface with updated cameras and monitors.   This maintained the functionality of the 4 cameras in our Dynasty. 

 

 

Going through the AC duct gets most of the way.  What I'm puzzled by is how to get from the rear cap area to the rear AC duct. Also, how to get from the front of the AC duct to the underdash/camera area.  

I don't know if any of you have run a new camera cable front to rear but pictures would sure help. 

My coach now has a wireless camera (Furrion) and I'm not happy with image quality contrast, brightness etc.  When I replace it I'd like to go with a wired one... if the old cable is not there, or bad, I may need to run a new one too.

16 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

GENERIC COMMENT.

The lighted switches on the two keypads are part of the Intellitec MPX system.  There is usually a 3 wire (maybe #14) connector.  Splicing in 3 wires to lengthen would not be an issue….just use a ratcheting crimper and high quality butt splices. SOME of the MPX switches may, doubt in this case, have an additional 2 wire pigtail.  Same deal….splice as needed.

The fan control switch should be the same.  Probably or hopefully #12 stranded.  Should NOT be an issue.

Joy Stick….no idea….don’t know what the other switch on the left is.  As long as no “proprietary” or special wiring cables..good to go….the Joy Stick may be a MPX with shield…..lots of options for finding similar.

Thanks, Tom. 

If I need to extend the wires I'll also shut down power to the intellitec system... just in case.  To the left of these are a 110V outlet and an "RJ" telephone connector which I will leave as-is. 

Hunting in the bedroom for the switch which controls the fan and the Aladdin "joystick" we found this array of controls below.

Thinking of relocating the switches since they're basically inaccessible without moving the mattress.  Also wondering if this was the 'standard' Monaco placement on models with windows at the side of the bed.  My tentative plan is to build a shallow box to match and mount alongside the window valence.  I may have to rotate the Intellitec switches 90 degrees to fit.  If anyone has run into this switch placement, how did you deal with it?

21 minutes ago, pwhittle said:

No plans to head as far west as TX, but will be back in New Orleans and up to Chicago in the next couple of months.

Paul

OK,  If we don't meet up on the road, hope to see you at the next Monacoers.

42 minutes ago, bill4029 said:

For the size of the arms.. your idea of a adjustable wrench tight on the arm.. put a drift punch in the hole on the end for leverage.. Should be enough I would hope. :<)

I dont think a drift punch would give the leverage to bend that (3/16"?) piece of Iron... was thinking about piece of 1/2" rebar... will try that when I get hold of the rebar.

Hi Paul,  I won't be able to make it there on Apr 8th, but I will need some Intellitec reprogramming done at some point.  Let me know when/if you are heading further west.

I did, finally, get some dry lube.  I'll probably also use it on all lock cylinders.

I'll pick up some small rubber stoppers also.

What remains is how I can bend those "stop-arms" back a few degrees so the stops like up with the center of the angle iron.  Tried a vise grip and an adjustable wrench.  Need to get something with more leverage.

9 hours ago, bill4029 said:

I just completed a rebuild of my coach steps and the stops on mine were totally worn away. I visited a Home Depot and purchased 2 black rubber bottle stoppers. Drilled the center for a tight fit and slid them on the formed arms just like the ones in your picture. I actually trimmed the stopper into a wedge shape to fit in the vee on the step.  replaced the slides on both sides with Knape & Vogt KV 8900 Series Full Extension Precision Ball Bearing Slides 22" 500# Class and 12" 500lb rated slides from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006FKXMY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006FKXLK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

A ton of work but drilled out rivets and was able to use SS cap bolts and nylock nuts to install.   My old slides were loose, worn, sloppy, binding and worse! All done while the main assembly was still on the coach. Results were well worth all of the hours in the sun on my back !  Quiet, smooth and looks new.  Wilt all refreshed, the adjustment was right on and operates perfectly.

Awesome job, BIll.  What I did, I consider a short-term measure.  I see from pictures that the stop brackets on mine are not quite bent out to 45 degrees like the example Al posted.  That may explain why my stops hit the upper part of the angle iron.  I know they should be bent out a bit, not sure how.

I like your idea of using rubber stoppers to make new rubber ends for the stope.  I will remember that when I get to spend more time on the steps, but I have a long to-do list ...

Looked a few times at my pictures and comparing with Al's.

I figured that my stop "arms" were bent a little less inward than his.  First tried to bend them but nothing there, so I added 3 washers each to the stop bolts.  I had to "trick" the step controller by pulling power slightly before the step was all the way out on the extend cycle.  That 3/8" or so longer on the stop appears to have fixed it.  (The 3 washers aren;t visible, since I taped them up to make installation easier.)