rpasetto

Here's a screenshot of the Door Lock page from the 05 Sig WD book, if it helps.

6 hours ago, jacwjames said:

My parts page shows the Moncao part # as 8619 

The REV parts page comes up with this https://parts.revgroup.com/item-detail?itemId=48306&organizationId=9   

Which is 10110964, it does say if you purchase the 01804591 you also need a steel bushing.  (I'm so confused). 

But can't see if an OEM number but they are pricey.  Not in that big of hurry. 

That crosses to ContiTech AS9376  $140 at the supplier below:

https://www.truckandtrailer.parts/ContiTech-AS9376-Air-Spring-Monaco-Coach-8619-8108-14002_p_1477.html

and $1200 here: https://dcontrol.com/marketplace/item/609f2e74f918490b78001a95

I don't know the above sellers...  Price is over $200 at Fleetpride and a few others I have dealt with.

6 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

I googled W0-358-9376 and a few other vendors popped up but don't know about availability. 

The parts list shows alternatives with some being 3/4" inlet so you would need an adapter.  See page 23 in the parts list showing cross numbers to Firestone W0-358-9376 from Contitech and others.

Most of the leak problems I've had were with the 3/4" thread side of the 3/4 to 1/4 adapters.  I don't know if the problem was the airbag threads or the adapter threads.

I checked the parts list ... shows replacement for Monaco Semi-monocoque and RR 10 airbag chassis coaches is  Monaco PN 0180-4591.  That crosses to the Contitech AS8897 as well as some Goodyear and Firestone parts.  I used the Conti when I had my drive axle airbags replaced last year.

After re-reading through this thread, Chuck B's post got me thinking...  When we bought the coach the keypad was inoperative and I assumed it had been disconnected for "security" purposes.  Since all the remotes work fine, reconnecting/fixing the pad is at the  bottom of my long "to do" list.  But now I think there may have been another reason.

Suggestion to Chet P:  Try disconnecting the keypad and see if the "automatic" locking still happens.

@dr4film, ... or maybe they were still in the not-cold mentality of sealing the reefer up.

Maybe we will hear from others with these early Whirlpool installations.

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Part of the routine maintenance for residential fridges no matter whether they are in a stick&brick house or a motorcoach is to vacuum the bottom of the fridge area both front and rear especially the coil area every few months to remove dust, hair and debris that prevents the flow of air over the coils and motor area.

In a house usually the fridge can be easily rolled out to clean but in a motorcoach  that's not possible.

I purchased a special tool that goes onto our vacuum that reaches all the way to the back and sides of the fridge from the front. I also remove the old outside vent cover and the rear access fridge cover to vacuum back there too.

https://www.ezvacuum.com/flexible-crevice-tool-for-all-vacuum-hoses-36-p-6452.html

Thank you.  Funny you should mention that, Richard.  A few hours ago my wife found a similar crevice tool and I ordered it.

Earlier today, I went out to the coach and removed the refrig. bottom panel to find an unbelievable mat of dust covering the coils underneath.  My bad, I should have done this when I bought the coach last year.  

As @Moecephus reported about his, the refrigerator is packed in fiberglass mat at the sides.   Much of the "dust" I removed from the coils was likely bits of fiberglass.  I removed most from the rear at the outside access panel,  It will be replaced with a sheet of semi-rigid insulation just to seal the coach inside ... If I ever need to pull the refrigerator out that fiberglass batting will go too.  Surprised to find it there.  Given that both our coaches have the same... it seems like it was there from the factory;  yet most refrigerator mfgrs specify an inch or so of airspace at sides and top of reefer.    Oh well, live and learn.

45 minutes ago, Mocephus said:

Hi Rick, I had to replace a leaking water valve on my Whirlpool and thought I’d never get the refrigerator out of the cabinet. It was not bolted to the floor at all. It was secured at the top by the cabinet trim piece and a metal flange. It was VERY hard to get out of the cabinet because it had fiberglass insulation wedged on each side making it extremely tight. I had to have someone push from the back while I pulled from the front.

Thanks for the info on removal.  Hopefully I won't have to do that.  I removed the outside access panel and found loose fiberglass behind the refrigerator and some dropping down towards the coil area below.  Underneath was extremely dusty; I did a first pass vacuuming underneath; went to take a break as I write this now.  Plugged the reefer in and it looks likes it's started cooling.  there's a lot of dust (probably some fiberglass shreds too) underneath which I will go back to removing with a refrigerator coil brush I now have and more vacuuming.  I will eventually make a semi rigid foam block to secure the reefer compartment.  [No way will I put loose fill fiberglass back in there.]

So if it works reliably after all the airflow blocking dust is removed, I may not need to pull it out to test components in the rear.  It looks like the evaporator fan & motor are accessible from inside the freezer compartment but repair to Condenser fan, motor capacitor and other parts require rear access.

We discovered the Whirlpool Reefer in the coach was at 70F in both compartments last night.  Seems it just suddenly stopped working.  It seems to be the OEM model (gs2shexns00).   Just now looking over the various diagnostic steps for what could be wrong; some parts, like the Condenser fan, require getting to the back of the refrigerator and I have no idea how to move it out of the cabinet.  THere doesn't seem to be anything bolting it to the floor.  

Suggestions will be appreciated.

I've never used the LED tube replacements for the fluorescents.  I have used self adhesive LED strips which can be wired directly to 12v.  I just disconnect ballasts from the circuit and leave 'em in place as they don't seem to get in the way.  Did them all on our last coach but your post reminds me I have a few yet to do on this one.  🙂

+1 on contacting Centroid; they are very helpful. 

As a quick test you can try disconnecting the wires to the fuel sending unit.

Outstanding work, Jim.

The files section has two wiring files which, may be close to your '94 Dynasty.  Hope these help. 

Congrats on your battle with Ca!  Blessings and safe and healthy travels.

Travel with a toad?  Keep extra coach key in toad; also extra toad key in coach (somewhere... maybe different for everyone).

I remember replacing it a few years back on my Dynasty.  You're right, they are contacts designed for a mopar minivan sliding  door.  Mine stayed together after that.  

It could be that the one you bought was a poorly made copy.  You might want to try another source; stuff from Amazon may get delivered fast but is not necessarily the best quality.

Have you tried the signal without the toad connected? ... or ... Does the  problem occur that way too?

If it only happens with toad connected there could be a a bad ground or some other wiring problem in the toad's wiring.

If the problem is still the same with the toad NOT connected,  check for a bad ground in the RH lighting wiring.

Roy, Great job on the installation!  

New "handle-less" RF18 has a nicer look than the OEM residentials Monaco used.  Looks like you 'repurposed' the old drawer fronts as cabinet doors up top.  You may be able to sell the doors in eBay to someone looking for panel doors on their Norcold or for using the wood panels for another purpose.

Those pics of the cabinet inside looked so familiar, reminding me of some years back, when I did the RF197 install on the '03 Dynasty I used to have.  Then I saw your signature 🙂

Booked our reservation.

Is the Ugly fix in the same category as EGR delete?  Apparently they're selling them online.  https://www.theuglyfix.com/default.asp

If you ae getting any voltage (more than millivolts) between a probe in the actual ground and the "ground" of the power post, there's a grounding problem somewhere in the power distribution circuitry.  Your neighbor's test run of genset proved that.  

On 6/7/2021 at 5:34 PM, pwhittle said:

Hi Jim,

It was great that you were able to get some of those keypad plastics. They are specific to Monaco and not available from Intellitec any longer.

You will be able to change the functions assigned to each button and add new functions to previously unused buttons.

Paul

Paul, have you thought about 3D printing the 6-button covers?  If you do you can put me down for a couple.  I also have a "wide" 6-button panel that's as wide as my 10 button panels; wondering if there are working switches are in the empty positions on those too.

@scottjo02, Yes. I recall having to tighten the fittings on the 7.5 Onan in my Dynasty.  I always thought that working from underneath made tightening those fittings more difficult.

The 12.5k and 10k have a door for side access; that makes changing the oil filter an easy task, but on mine, the fuel filter change is a knuckle buster... there's barely enough space to make a 1/6 turn with a flare wrench.  A flare crowfoot would make that a little easier.    My 12.5 has a steel fuel line going from the fuel pump thru an internal wall.  One way would be to get a shorter steel line from the pump thru the wall, then go the rest of the way with a rubber hose.  Hoping someone has done this; looks like you need to take the case off.

 The newer 12.5 has rubber fuel lines both to and from the filter, and they're curved and long enough to actually pull the filter out.  Filter mounting looks completely different ... see below.

Did Genset service this AM on my Onan 12.5 HDCAB.  The worst part by far was removing and reinstalling fuel filter.  The fuel line coming from the pump is steel, the one to the engine is rubber.  How much easier it would be if that steel line was rubber too, like the newer models.  Then I could just bring the whole assembly out to change.  Has anyone changed that fuel line on a 12.5HDCAA or 12.5HDCAB?

Quote

 

Covered a piece of plywood and fashioned brackets.  Front brackets go to screws of windshield defogger registers; rear brackets to top screws of center console.  there's a 3 position 12vDC outlet suspended from each front corner.  Laptop runs Street Atlas and VMSpc.  If I ever want remove it, dash top remains completely stock.want to

I know I need to straighten up the cables, haven't got there yet but it needs to be done.

Do you have HWH air leveling?  I believe it could also be the LH rear travel valve sticking.

So anyway if anyone has this type of fuel hose, there's a way.  I spent some time looking for re-usable JIC fittings and learned there are fittings for all sorts of hose types rubber and silicone wire impregnated and otherwise... not for this hose.  I carried my sample around... no luck.  Thinking about the original fittings somehow got pressed into that fuel hose ... there had to be a way.  So I started a search for tools to do it; learned a lot.  There are plenty of such tools, the least costly one I found was a $300 one with variations and add-on adapters to handle various size hose and fitting combinations but I figured without part numbers and still learning all the designations of hose and fittings it would take me some few hundred north of that and a lot of time anyway.  Right about then I realized how nice it would be to have a machine shop and know how to use it... no chance there.  So I went to the woodshop.

The device below is made of wood, bolts, threaded rod and nuts, all stuff found at Lowes and Home Depot.  It clamps on the the hose and pushes it on to the fitting.  Test setup shown below.

The green arrows indicate nuts used to clamp down on the hose.  The yellow hose is a cutoff used for testing the "press".  In actual use, the hose is wrapped with double layer of electrical tape for protection before going inside the clamp. (had that piece since the old hose needed to be shortened a bit).  The red arrows indicate the locked nuts used to "wrench" down the hose over the barb once it's clamped in place.  I actually used a drill to do some of the bolt turning once the hose was started on the barb.  The brass fitting (orange arrow) is just a test part, not the 1/2 barb to JIC one.  Thanks to the DW for helping; this was a two person job; much trickier than it looks, working in the tight quarters of the engine compartment.

So if any of you all  have this kind of hose and run into a situation where you need to press fittings on, give a holler; maybe I can help.