rpasetto

I was thinking about getting a SeeLevel II to replace my rather inaccurate Aladdin tank sensors.  I didn't know they had version a version which connects to the Aladdin system.  I am not sure my coach layout is the same as your 05 Exec was so I'll start looking in my bay ceilings for the Aladdin bridge.  Any more info you still have on this install will be appreciated.

I can find the mate & lock connectors, pins and sockets online but not the pre-made cable ends like that.  What is the URL where you found that?

16 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Yes #2 on the J12 pug is burnt. Soldered a wire from the board bypassing the J12-2 contact with no change. Can hear a relay clicking when switching from Hi/Low in the VIP controller.

If you hear the relay clicking but no current output, that sounds like burnt contacts on the relay.  Sounds like what happened to me years ago... I kept the old smartwheel controller ... somewhere... there were burn signs on the board at the relay as well as J12.

Years back the Smartwheel controller on my 03 Dynasty showed burning at J12.  At first I thought it was the connection but sometime later the headlight circuit went out.  When I removed the smartwheel controller the circuit board where the corresponding "25a" relay was mounted showed burns as well.  Some of the other circuits had been affected also.  That's when I decided to make the headlight circuit permanent; durability of the on board relay is questionable. 

While waiting for my790R30 to replace the old Primary filter Setup I came across a picture in the 06 Sig Manual, below.

The connectors on these look just like the ones on mine, and the filter system in the picture looks like the 790R30. It looks like it will be an easy swap if nothing breaks.  My concern is if those plastic connectors break, where to get a replacement, and how to install them on the hose ends.  Rather than that I would prefer the field installable metal type (JIC) but still not sure what size/type of that connector to get.

I wrote to Voss so hopefully answers will be forthcoming.

Check connections to be sure they are intact.  The clock spring would be the next likely possibility.  

If yours is like mine was you can remove the center cover which exposes the wheel nut and a four wire connector.  The other end of the connector is below where the steering column articulates.  You will probably need to remove the cover for the steering column.  Once both connector ends are uncovered you can check for continuity.  When I did this I discovered one of the four wires had no continuity.  That's enough to know clock spring replacement is needed.

The clock spring on most early-mid 2000's Monacos is Douglas Autotech Clock Spring DAC-1900043

Installation guide can be downloaded here.  http://www.douglasautotech.com/departments/service-parts/

@Mocephus,  Well done. 

Curiously, I was working on something else in my FRB and noticed that pin2 on J12 is starting to show burn signs.  Another project added to my list.

4 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

500 ft/lbs sounds about right.

Also, I highly recommend purchasing and installing Borg Tire Stems minimally for the rear but when I did it back in 2010 I chose to purchase the fronts too.

No more problems with potential leaks and no more being a contortionists to check air psi or installing TPMS.

2010 is when I had all new tires installed with Dyan Beads, a new TPMS (Doran - long gone now, worthless POS) and new Borg Tire Stems.

I have since gone with Toyo Tires, the Tire SafeGuard TPMS and Balance Masters for tire balancing. Love the combination.

I recently got the Borg dually valve kit to get rid of those braided extensions on the drive axle.  One was leaking a bit when I had a tire service do the changeover.   The young man who did the job was very careful and skillful installing the inner valve and the rubber stabilizers. 

Glad to hear the install of replacement tires went well for you.  I was always concerned that some tire shops might be unfamiliar with these stems.

I have a feeling that the relays in the SmartWheel controller are either inadequate or fail with age.  The headlight relay in particular with the heaviest draw; connectors and wiring should be sized to handle the load, but wondering if they are.  The crimps on the mate&lock connectors could be the problem too.

Moe, can you measure the current draw on that new 10ga line?  I'd like to compare it to what the same headlights draw via the normal Smartwheel setup.  If resistance is nominal we should see nearly the same thru both... if not there may be significant resistance somewhere.

5 hours ago, StephenW said:

Thanks Rick and Ray,

I have the VIP SM 210 module and while troubleshooting I jumpered J 12 -1 and 2 and the headlights worked.  If I use just the headlight switch on the dash and both the dash lights and marker lights work but not the headlights.  I believe I read somewhere on this forum that others have had headlight problems at the VIP module.  If possible I would look at permanently separating the headlights from this potential problem.  If I need to replace wires and install relays I would appreciate any help I could get as I am a retired plumber and not an electrician. 

 

Thanks again for the help.

I recall doing this years back.  I just cut off the wires mentioned below.  (However, if you remove them from the connector you could always reinstall them if you decide to go back to 'factory'.  There is a tool used to install  & remove pins from these connectors.)

Remove wires p1 and p2 from connector J12 and also remove wire p6 from J11 (Wire from headlight switch).  Connect the p6 wire from headlight switch to the coil of an 87 type relay (see diagram);  pins 86 and 85 connect to the coil so you could connect headlight switch wire, P6 to 86 and 85 to ground.  Pin 30 of the relay should get the 12v power via the headlamp fuse in your front electrical box, that's p1 if I recall, and p2 would connect to 87 to power headlights.  I strongly recommend fusing both circuits: the coil (85-86) and power (30-87) just in case there's a short somewhere.

Hope this helps.

6 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

I have a headlight switch on the dash that I often use to turn the lights on,  it sounds like you guys have that switch too. So have ya'll found that when your Smart Wheel malfunctions the manual sw ceases to work.   Is that the case?   Maybe I have been blissfully ignorant thinking that I had my dash headlight sw as a backup.

RainX rubbed on the windshield does wonders if the wipers stop.

Puzzled by your statement, I looked at my owners manual thinking 'is there a way to turn on the headlights from the smart wheel?'  there's no "Headlight On" button there.    ... sure enough I learned that any wiper function turns on the headlights until IGN is turned off or the headlight switch is operated to ON then OFF position.  (Still learning after almost 2 decades driving these; reminds me of how little I know about this coach.)

@StephenW, hoping this is not hijacking your thread.

I do not know if you have the same type smartwheel controller as shown in the diagram below (Check your wiring diagram book).  If it is, as a temporary fix you could unplug connectors and use the signal from pin 6 of J11 to control a 87 type relay wired to connect power between the Headlamp Source and Power (pins 1, 2 of J12).   Similarly J11-p12 could be used control marker lamps (tail) via J12-p3,4 and a second relay.   I recall being in a similar predicament many years back and made a temporary fix like that.  You'd still be without other functions of the smartwheel controller box which are controlled by the MPX signal to the box.  There's possible workarounds for those too, but I didn't explore that.

23 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

If you're any sort of car/engine guy you have gotta read this

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f59/new-ice-technology-that-will-undo-the-bev-531647.html?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email

I'm 80 yrs old, but there is still a kid in me yelling I wanna drive.   😲

Or you can You tube   https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=koenigsegg's+tiny+engine+makes+600+horsepower

The idea of electronically controlled engine valving seems to be a logical step after other improvements to internal combustion engines like ECM controlled ignition and fuel injection over the old distributor-e or the ECM controlled fuel injection in our newer diesels which had previously been cam-driven.  I hope I'm still driving when such engines become available to the general population.

However, before one compares 'carbon footprint' of todays fossil fuel engines with electric motors, recall that about 2/3 of the electricity generated today is based on natural gas, coal and other fossil fuel products.  Who knows what the future will bring... maybe nuclear power scaled down to motorhome size... 

https://www.publicpower.org/system/files/documents/Americas-Electricity-Generation-Capacity_2021-update.pdf

The front and rear Faria gauges are available on eBay.    

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FARIA-GE0055A-RV-MOTORHOME-FRONT-AIR-PRESSURE-GAUGE-WHITE-FACE/312773539212

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FARIA-GE00056A-AIR-PRESSURE-GAUGE-WHITE-FACE-CHROME-BEZEL-MARINE-BOAT/233346308381

Like Paul, I have a flaky fuel gauge on the multifunction Tach-Fuel-Voltage gauge.  I just looked at the diagram in the Owners Manual and the positioning is flipped from the way it is on my dash ... but everything else looks correct.  Could it also be that the connectors are plugged in the wrong way?

21 hours ago, pcpronze said:

That is interesting about a chip for the ISM.   I have heard about the "Dirty fix".  I have the ISM also,    I attended several seminars at the Ramblin Pushers 419 with Allison and Cummins together.   The word was that the econo mode was for city driving.  They also said that it did not really do much one way or the other.

I heard about the 'Ugly Fix', if that's what you're referring to.  I've heard about it with the DD60 and some with the ISX.  It is in the compoany's product list but I never before heard a motorhomer with it installed on the ISM.  I've looked on mine and cannot even locate the atmospheric sensor which it's supposed to replace.

On 4/8/2021 at 5:34 PM, Dennis H said:

Mine is a chipped ISM and my sweet spot is 1800....Dennis

 By 'chipped' do you mean the Ugly fix for the ISM or something else?

On 4/10/2021 at 1:43 AM, John Haggard said:

...

Your old fitting looks like a quick disconnect I have seen. But your picture only shows one side 

Try to release the fitting via the red collar 

Then remove the black nut  fitting from your original pump .

See where you are at with your original fittings and new pump.

Go from there.

A trip to a NAPA or big rig shop parts store with your new pump may be necessary 🤔

If you can't plug and play. 

They are very simple common conectors .

Connectors are the same on both sides of the old pump as shown in the earlier picture.  I know the threads for input and output ports are 7/8"-14 UNF as per the Racor spec on the 790R30.    However the hoses are different than any shown in this thread or in the earlier thread to which I provided a reference.  If I have to cut off the old fittings, which I would need to do if the quick connects don't release properly, what fittings fit those hoses?  I prefer to have parts on hand or readily available before I start a project.

----------------------------------------- Update  ---------------------------------------------------------

My 790R30 arrived and I had no trouble getting fittings to fit the ports of the filter (ORB # 10, 7/8x14 UNF) and the shutoff valves down to a 1/2" JIC male fitting.  But there should be a connector to that 1/2"ID yellow plastic (nylon?) hose. 

How's best method to connect to that darn yellow hose? (see below)  The hose inside measures 1/2" but it's tough to push on either regular 1/2 barb or 'push-fit' barb into that opening by hand.  For now, I easily inserted the next lower size, 3/8", and they are leak tight using clamps.  Engine starts and runs fine, but I am concerned that the 3/8" barb will be a restriction in the 1/2"ID fuel hose at heavy engine load.  I don't want to risk fuel starvation. 

So far I haven't found where I could get a tool to insert 1/2" barbs into this hose.  Recommendations? Also haven't found a truck place where I could get a "field attachable' fitting.   I see many field attachable (reusable) fittings online, looking like the one below, but they all seem to be for a specific hose type.  Tomorrow, another try, another trip to a few hydraulic hose places.  If anyone has found the right connection method for this 1/2"ID, 5/8"OD yellow plastic hose let me know.

1 hour ago, John Haggard said:

Personally, I would remove the unit you have.

Then get the fittings you may need.

Your talking a few hundred $$$ pump, filter system.

A few $$$s for fittings won't hurt you.

Your fretting over a Windys Dinner. 

I already ordered the 790R30 unit, which is the filter head with integral pump.  My question is: what fittings do I need?  I already know the threads for input and output ports are 7/8"-14 UNF as per the Racor spec on the 790R30.  My question is about the hose side; these hoses appear to have been molded onto the old fittings.  Like I said I have never seen this type of fuel hose.  Can you tell me what type of fitting to use on it?

13 minutes ago, John Haggard said:

Mine was plug and play 

8 some years ago.

Works flawlessly 

After you get yours at your coach.

You will soon know what fittings ? If Any you may need.

I needed none.

The problem is my fittings are sort of molded on to the yellow plastic hose.  If I break them I would need to get the re-usable (JIC?) type and cut off the old ones.  There's a black plastic connector with the red clip...  I am guessing that somehow the clip pulls away to enable the fitting to come apart allowing me to unscrew the hex part of the fitting.  I have never before seen such a setup.... hoping someone here knows.

49 minutes ago, Rob M cKeown said:

Thanks to all for your help and suggestions. I now have a plan to:

1. Check out the existing unit thoroughly especially connections

2. If unsuccessful replace the unit with the Racor 790R30

3. Install isolation valves on the gzin and gzout

Again, thanks everyone for your help and suggestions, much appreciated. Owning one of these beasts is a never ending learning curve and helps keep the grey matter active.

After dealing with an intermittent pump for too long it looks like the best path is to replace the old, obsolete 12962/48027 system.  Fiddling with the control switch and wiring to get the pump to run has been a recurring problem.  Replacing the element is also more of a hassle because of the connections for 'Drain water" feature which was never used anyway.   I probably should have replaced that old unit sooner, but 'stuff happens'.

If you decide to go ahead and replace yours, we both may be doing this project at about the same time.  My concern is with the the fuel hose and quick connect fittings on mine.  They are somehow molded into a plastic hose...  most others seem to have a black rubber hose with what appear to be factory crimped fittings.  

Do you have the rubber hose connections like Charles' picture?... or the plastic?  I am hoping someone else here has experience with the same type of fuel hose and connections as mine.  I am also seeking advice on this.

Does yours look like this one?

With this switch?

The pump on mine is intermittent.   I do not recall the old replacement but the new Racor recommended unit is the 790R30.

A number of monacoers here have recommended I make the change and it has been on my "to-do" project list for a while.  See this thread for more info: 

I am hoping to be able to re-use the quick-connect fuel fittings shown in picture above... if I can take them off without breaking them.  🙂

Paul Whittle did the upgrade and installed shut off valves which are a good idea.  I will also do that after I figure out what fittings needed with the hoses on mine, which seem to be different.

Check the Monaco Parts list as well as looking for matches to the DOT number on the lens.   

Once you have that info check selling sites, local dealers or sellers on the internet may have what you want. 

1 hour ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Could not have said it better!

If your two ACs are controlled by separate thermostats, swapping them would tell you whether it's a thermostat problem. 

If they're on the same thermostat one of the AC's would have a remote temp sensor which might have gone bad.  Try Steven P's test first if the AC which is affected is on that sensor.   Sensors run about 20 - 30 bucks, IIRC, so a temporary plug in of a new sensor in a different location may be a good test.  Snaking the wirint would be tricky if you had to replace the sensor though.

Welcome, Tony!   There are many very knowledgeable members here.  Your M11 engine, and the ISM, have a great reputation.

Safe Travels.

Welcome Jonbrooks.  That's an amazing job you did on your Aquahot heating coil!  

Ya mean we gotta use corecct sppelling, and graamer?  

🙂  Just to lighten the mood.

Seriously though, you do raise an excellent point here, Scott.