Frank McElroy

If you want to bypass big boy, this is how I did it with a piece of copper to jumper across the two battery studs and I unplugged the connector from RRB board #6 feeding the big boy solenoid. I used tin snips to cut a piece of copper water pipe tubing to size. Flattened it and drilled two holes. A cheap effective solution to bypass big boy. This is my setup for long term storage. If I had a Kongsberg CCM multiplex coach, big boy would always be bypassed. These coaches were really not designed for dry camping. They were designed to be always on shore or generator power when not being driven. Your other option is to replace big boy with a Blue Sea ML-ACR.

When driving a Kongsberg Chassis multiplex coach always keep a close eye on the house batteries to be sure they are being charged. If house batteries aren't being charged, it's only a matter of time before you'll be on the side of the road. If you ever notice the house batteries not being charged, run the generator so the inverter can charge the house batteries.

The most important thing to know is the house battery voltage with the engine running. On a Kongsberg chassis multiplex coach, BOTH house AND chassis batteries MUST be charging with the engine running. If you find that the house batteries aren't charging, run the generator or bypass bigboy. Just because big boy is clean doesn't mean it is energized.

On your coach, all the dash switches are powered by the house batteries. Most likely you are having an issue with your big boy. Try running the generator and then start the engine. With the generator still running, see if your problems disappear. If all seems to be working, clean big boy or just jumper across the two battery lugs on big boy.

Yes, high crankcase pressure will derate and could throw a stop engine light if bad enough. The only way to know for sure what caused the stop engine light is to look at the engine code history report via Insite software.

Look up the Torque vs RPM and HP vs RPM graphs for your engine. You want to climb long grades at an RPM near max HP NOT max Torque. To keep the RPM high at max HP you will likely need to manually downshift and climb at a lower speed. You never want to climb a long grade at wide open throttle letting the transmission to select the gear to climb at max speed. Climbing long grades near max HP puts the least amount of strain on the engine and cooling systems. Climbing long grade at WOT to maintain maximum speed puts the most strain on the engine and cooling systems and generates high exhaust temperatures.

Thanks for the kind words. As I await a volunteer to loan me a master switch module so I can copy the software program, I've turned my attention to the 9 slave switch modules. These all have the same circuit board, just different software. Of the 9, 5 test good and I was able to download the software. I'm sorting out the other 4 to see which components are bad and if the software is corrupted. Repairs are now moving along quite nicely.

Utilizing the sleep feature on the front CCM would require opening a sealed module, cutting a board trace, redirecting a wire to an external connection and then resealing the unit under very low humidity conditions to prevent moisture condensation. Can it be done sure, but it sure isn't easy to do right. When the front CCM was designed, the never sleep option was hard wired internally so switch modules always stay active. The rear CCM does have the sleep option wire a fused wire going to the battery disconnect latching relay. The better option might be to cut power to the dash switch master modules. However, that would need to be confirmed since these modules get other power input signals from the CCM. Unintended consequences could bite you.

I wish life was that easy. The CCMs are via at 150 amp breakers direct from the batteries and the sleep mode feature that would have shut down the master switch modules was internally bypassed inside the front CCM. So, not as easy as one would think.

Actually it is the 12 volt input circuit from the CCM module feeding the master switch modules that has the obscure 4 volt minimum spec. The shut off should have been part of the CCM design and that might very well be the case - right now I just don't know other than finding the low voltage spec in the Eaton documentation. Remember, the coach also took a lightning strike. In any event, allowing electronics to be left on when batteries go dead in never a good idea and the chassis multiplex system right now doesn't have an option to be turned off. I think a better option would be to be able to turn the system off. I'm looking at simple options to do that. An added benefit would save on the huge parasitic load of the Kongsberg system.

On Monaco coaches with a Kongsberg chassis multiplex system, the dash switch modules are powered by the house batteries and they have a low voltage spec down to 4VDC no longer than 5 minutes. And yes, the batteries did go dead. That's why especially on a chassis multiplex coach, never let the batteries go dead. If you do, you run a risk of damaging the master switch modules.

It's time for an update. Some very good news - I was able to fully repair one of the master switch modules but need help from someone with a chassis multiplex coach to complete the repair of the other switch module. More specifically, I need to get a copy of the software program stored on the dash switch module pictured below. If anyone out there wants to help by loaning me the module pictured below - maybe a spare your are saving or the one from your coach if in storage - please send me a private message. In exchange, should you ever have a failed Master Switch module, on your coach, I'll repair the internal circuit board for free. I'm sure there are some curious minds out there that want to know what I did to repair the Master switch modules. The PDF file describes what I did - warning - it's very technical. Eaton E30 module repair.pdf

You might want to watch this video by Mike who solved a problem with his off-road modified jeep throwing stones at the back of his Dynasty.

I think there is a lot of misinformation being discussed. According to the table posted from REV, it says to use transmission fluid. Monaco changed over from AW-46 to trans fluid because AW-46 is too viscous for use in extremely cold climates. Bill D did talk about changing out AW-46 in favor of using transmission fluid.

Tom - Yes that retired Exxon-Mobil Chemist would be me. However, using AW46 is not recommended because at very low temperature (well below freezing, the fluid can become so viscous that it can blow out the heat exchanger. If you travel in areas below freezing temperature, I would recommend only using Transynd fluid.

Great point. As our coaches age, there are a lot of cheap after market parts that can be installed (Thank you Amazon). Those tail lights don't have DOT markings for a reason - they don't meet DOT specs. Over the past few years, I'm finding folks posting questions especially on electrical issues without also posting pictures. We all make the assumption that the schematics or parts are OEM original but we then later find out that a previous owner modified the wiring or installed a non OEM part. I must admit that this is the first time that I've see a tail light lens without a DOT marking. Learn something new every day.

Interesting that your manual call for only a clay based grease. The Bendix/Spicer slack adjusters on my coach only say not to use a grease containing Moly-disulfide. I use a synthetic lithium grease for all grease fittings on my coach.

Do a Google search on the DOT number shown on your old lense. You should get a hit on a replacement part.

See page 243 in the attached wiring diagram. Are both Aladdin sensor fuses good and do you have 240 volts power out of the transfer switch on the same cables that the Aladdin sees? Also, do you have a 240 volt clothes dryer and if so have you checked that panel box for 240 volts in and out?

If you find all voltages on the two data cables are too high or too low, check the voltage feed and ground at the smartwheel keypads with and without a keypad presses. Resistance on the keypad power feed or ground can be just as bad as resistance in one of the two data cables.

At the base of the steering column behind the lower black cover there is a connector that connects the steering wheel keypads to the smartwheel control box. Be sure there is no corrosion in that connector. The smartwheel works by each keypad sending a specific voltage on two data wires. Any resistance on those data wires or connections would change voltages that the smartwheel controller sees when a keypad is pressed. If voltages are off by more than about +/- 0.1 volts, you will see the problems you have. Not only could there be resistance on the two data wires, there must be a good voltage feed and ground to the smartwheel keypads. Have you followed the smartwheel troubleshooting manual and actually measured the voltages on the keypad data lines to the control box?

Thanks for the update and sharing the solution. I'm sure this will help others. Air flow volume is critical and your post highlighted that important fact.

We have a vast amount of technical information in the Downloads Files section of the site including operation, service and parts manuals. See page 26 in the link below to the Valid Powergear (and HWH) manuals to reset the system to what you define as coach level. For the fill list of manuals here is the link: https://www.monacoers.org/files/category/1-air-systems-leveling-jacks/

I use a short flat blade screw driver. Look around the edge and you will see a place where the screw driver blade will fit in. Once your push the blade in a bit the cap easily pops off.

We are talking about the drag linkage from the steering gearbox to the drivers side steer knuckle. Tie rods between the two steer tires are a separate issue. True, in cars, you would adjust wheel tie rods to center the steering wheel but on trucks you have an adjustable drag link and its position on a pitman arm to the steering gearbox. When you change the gearbox, the pitman arm needs to be aligned and the drag link set to the correct position.