Frank McElroy

Chassis Control Module

On your coach the trailer wires come directly out of the rear Kongsberg CCM module. This module is located in the ceiling between the frame rails of the first bay behind the steer axle. On connector J3 you will find the wires you need. See attached J3 wire listing. These wires come as outputs from electronic MOSFET relays internal to the CCM. The outputs will show 12 volts on all of the trailer wires until you put a load on the circuit. Instead of testing with a voltmeter use a 12 volt light tester to put a load on the circuit. You should NOT just tap into the existing rear lights. Over time you will burn up the MOSFET outputs in the rear CCM that feeds the coach rear lights if you add trailer lights to that circuit. Hope all this helps explain how your system works.

This is a model year 2005 coach. Kongsberg chassis multiplex was first introduced in 2008 model year Signature coaches.

ISL 425 HP engines with DPF (diesel particulate filter) are painted red. As part of the inspection be sure to get a copy of the 50 page report from the engine ECM. To do that would require the use of Cummins Insite software. This will provide a history of how the coach was driven, how the Jake brakes were used, a history of engine overheating or low oil pressure and if the software was updated and if so, an engine abuse history report as well as fuel economy. All this is stored in the engine ECM and it tracks engine operating date since birth - it can't be erased. Also check for inactive trouble codes. Be sure the engine serial number and miles match the data plate on the engine and odometer on the dash. The odometer will likely be about 10 miles off because the chassis was driven before the dash cluster was installed.

I sent you a PM.

Take a look at the top of the gear timing housing

Just to recap, I believe you measured 120 ohms across the two J1939 data lines (pins C and D). Assuming that's still the case then yes, you are missing a terminating resistor. To have a stable J1939 databus, you need two 120 ohm terminating resistors on each end so I'm very surprised that the engine, abs, trans shifter, transmission and Aladdin computers all are talking to each other but the dash gauge display computer isn't. So, I just want to confirm the you are seeing 120 ohms on the 9 pin J1939 databus connector between pins B and C and this isn't being confused with the 6 pin slower speed J1708 databus connector where terminating resistors are NOT used. If I'm not mistaken, on your year coach your dash cluster may actually be connected to the slower J1708 databus. If that's the case, and you don't have a J1939 databus connection under your dash with a 9 pin data port then you won't find terminating resistors. How many pin data port pins do you have on port connections under the dash and in the engine bay.

You might have a dirty reed valve inside the head of the air compressor. See my post on Feb 12 on how to clean it.

The chassis multiplex system has been obsolete for years. There are a few rear CCM modules that can be purchased from stock but front CCM and all the dash switch modules are only available from salvage yards and they are almost impossible to find. Read this 12 page thread and pay attention to my posts. I have links in how the system works, modifications to fix the SmartWheel 5 VDC supply, fuses to prevent a circuit board fire in the front run bay and how I repaired and reprogrammed the Eaton dash switch modules. I know it's a long thread but it contains everything you'll need to know. On the house Intellitec system, there are a few of us on the forum who can repair and reprogram them.

Hopefully the white wiring will have printed labeling on the insulation that matches the schematic.

I remember back in the day if you wanted an el cheapo DYI paint job you painted your car with a paint brush out of a paint can.

I don't see a reason for asking about a coach number. Maybe they are asking for the VIN number and think the two numbers are the same. The only other possibility is that with the coach number they could get the build sheet from REV. But they could have just as easily asked you for it unless you didn't have it.

For me, on high price items over a few K$, it's only electronic transfer direct to my bank account before the title is turned over. Motorhome high cash transactions would be problematic when depositing in your bank account. 15 years ago, when we sold our old Winnie, I did accept a bank check from an out of town buyer but he first needed to send me a picture of the bank check and I called the bank issuing the check to be sure it was legit. Today, nope - it's electronic transfer only on any sale over a few K$. Back in 1994, I bought a new car and gave the dealer a bank check. When I got home with the new car, there was a message on my answering machine from the bank saying that the check they gave me was no good and they wanted it back to issue a new one. (The bank merged and issued the check under the old bank name routing numbers.) I called the bank back and told them to straighten it out with the car dealer who now has their check. And that's what they did. So - even bank checks can be bad.

I would first unplug from shore power and then disconnect the batteries - wait a few minutes then reconnect them. This in effect will reboot both the Intellitec house lighting and the Kongsberg dash multiplex systems. Also make sure you don't have anything pressing the Intellitec keypads like a pillow or bedding next to the nightstand keypads.

Ceiling ducts depend somewhat on the floorplan layout. On my 2008 Dynasty I have one main duct running down the center of the ceiling going from front to back. All side branches come off this main duct. All 3 rooftop AC units feed this main duct. Any of those AC units feed all ceiling vents. The return air input is below the AC unit. Off this main trunk line, there are side branches. Yes a good example is the small outlet in the entertainment cabinet. There is also another one in the ceiling above the electrical cabinet over the driver's side window.

It's a good thing you are going there to inspect yourself. First they tell you that pitting is so bad the cylinders can't be bored. Assuming you have an ISL, you don't bore the cylinders you replace the cylinder liner sleeves. For there to be that much pitting in the head the coolant Ph must have been very acidic. If you kept up on coolant testing that simply shouldn't happen. Curious, if you had that much sleeve liner pitting, did the engine hydrolock because coolant got into the cylinder after shut down and were you towed in?

I'm sorry but I'm just not buying the statement that the cylinder block sleeve sealing surfaces are so pitted that the sleeves can't be replaced. Sure, maybe after 2 or 3 engine rebuilds maybe. For this determination, they would have already pulled out all the cylinder sleeves for inspection. Did they do that and show you pictures of the pitted block surfaces where the sleeve seals?

Yes, you can use the aquahot to heat the coach with the fresh water system winterized.

Thank you for posting pictures. It looks like both the transmission and differential ends holding the drive shaft are spread apart and will need to be replaced. Those U-joints have been loose and making a clunking noise between acceleration and deceleration for a long time. I'm also surprised not to see any grease slung from the U-joints onto the bottom of the chassis. The shop you used to grease those joints every 5,000 miles or every 6 months if the coach is drive all year should have caught the U-joints going bad.

When you start moving the slide out does the bottom start to come out or does that end of the slideout not move at all? If the bottom moves out a bit you might try moving the lower outside pawl to release the top inside arm. If the bottom end of that slide doesn't move at all, then you most likely have a hydraulic cylinder issue.

Please post pictures with the end of the transmission, upper air tank, and the rear differential where the driveshaft is missing. Pictures will answer a lot of questions and could help you out not only with the missing driveshaft components but also other damage done under the coach.

One thing I just remembered. Besides sanding the bottom of the float with the magnets to work the reed valves, I also rounded the top and bottom edges all the way around the float. Yep, both did the trick. On the dash dimmer lights, I'd suggest posting as a new topic but in the meantime look in the downloads section where our files are stored. I think there should be a dimmer knob on the dash. Schematics will also show where the fuse is located. Keep in mind, it might also be a bad ground. There will also be schematics on your instrument cluster and I think you have Medallion gauges. Schematics will also be in downloads files.

On my ISSOPRO, like yours, it can't be removed without sliding the tank out. The round tube holding the circuit board and float is just too large in diameter to angle out of the tank top. But, I was able to remove the black plastic cover off the top of the tube and pull out the circuit board attached to the top, repair a bad solder joint on one of the reed fuel level height switches, and slightly sand the float to keep it from sticking. This was all done 5 years ago and has been working fine ever since. I did this all with the tank in place. Pictures are worth a thousand words.

You likely have a Girard Anemometer. If it's the new style try removing the top and oil the shaft. If the old style, Google Girard Anemometer and you will find lots of places to buy news ones.

Before EGR, engines were not as computerized with high pressure common rail injection and lower engine coolant temperatures. Internal engine metallurgy and valve timing were also slightly different. If you're climbing grades at full throttle, then you are putting max load/wear on the engine and generating lots of heat going into the coolant system. I like to climb long grades with my ISL at about 2,000 RPM, and NOT full throttle. If needed, I'll manually downshift the transmission and climb at a slower speed. You never want to climb long grades at full throttle and let the transmission downshift for you. A good rule of thumb is that if you are passing almost all 18 wheelers, you are climbing too fast and putting lots of wear/strain on your engine. It's all a matter of how long you want the power train to last. In a motorhome's life, probably just lower fuel economy. In an OTR truck, shortening mileage on an in-frame by a few hundred thousand miles is real money.