Frank McElroy

Reboot the Intellitec multiplex system by either cycling the battery cutoff switch or disconnecting the house batteries. Also, reset the aquahot system at the control board in the aquahot bay.

You have a voltage drop problem like Tom Cherry thought early on. Please go back and reread his earlier posts. A bad cable connection, bad batteries, or bad ground. Check cables for a voltage drop like Myron suggested.

Exactly. Until John posts real data under load, the 12.7 volt measurement means nothing. Unless he has a voltage measurement between the +12 and ground connections at the generator (not frame ground) he has not proven that the generator is seeing 12 volts while the generator is starting.

That master is NOT programmable. Here is a link to a very good document in our files that explains the two different Intellitec multiplex systems. One is programmable and one is not.

Since you confirmed that you are getting 12.7 volt power to the generator, my best advice is for you to follow the trouble shooting section 12.7 in the Onan service manual. BUT - PLEASE FIRST POST THE BATTERY VOLTAGE WHILE PRESSING THE START SWITCH ON THE GENERATOR WITH THE VOLTMETER CONNECTED TO THE GENERATOR POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINALS AT THE BACK OF THE GENERATOR. See sections 12-1 and 12-2 on pages 61 and 62 in the attached Onan manuals link - you want the service manual. Earlier, I attached a Monaco schematic of the remote controls including the Intellitec interface.

The battery connections you want to test are on the BACK of the generator where the large +12 and Ground cables are connected.

If you are saying that with the voltmeter is connected to the battery cables on the back of the generator, the voltage goes to zero when you press the start switch on the generator, it means you either have dead coach batteries, or high resistance in one of 12 volt cables from the chassis battery bank or the ground cable connecting the generator to the chassis frame is bad. First try connecting the voltmeter ground to the chassis frame, not the ground lug on the generator. A loose generator ground cable would show the voltage readings you are seeing provided your voltmeter was actually on the +12 and ground connections on the generator.

If you are still having a sync problem, you'll need to trace wiring to be sure the Intellitec system is getting proper generator input signals. 38070198 (Schematic, Gen Start, Auto Temp).pdf

With the generator off, reboot the Intellitec CPU by either cycling the battery cutoff switch or disconnect the batteries. This should bring the keypad indicator light back in sync with the generator being ON/OFF.

Thanks for the update and details on the troubleshooting to repair the problem. This is the first time I can recall that Circuit Breaker ever going bad. Good detective work. Did you need to remove the circuit board to replace the CB?

When a keypad indicator light turns ON after pressing it, it ONLY means that the keypad was pressed and the Intellitec CPU acknowledged that it was pressed by turning ON the indicator light. It does NOT mean that, in this case, the generator ever started - it was ASSUMED to have started. Press the keypad again and the indicator light should go out.

With the Toyos I didn't notice any smell different then any other new set of tires.

If you have a voltmeter with a clamp amp meter, you could easily measure the current on that wire. That would be an easy way to know how much current is being drawn. Also, I think that wire runs through one of the large connectors on the side of the FRB. Make sure there is no corrosion inside that connector. Corrosion will add resistance and draw more amps. Same for the connection plug on the blower resistor block.

If you are saying that the fan works at certain positions and then in other positions the circuit breaker trips, that sounds like a short. I'd check the fan resistor block to see if it's shorted. To check to see if you have a weak auto-resetable CB, connect the wire from PCB #10 feeding the HVAC controller through a separate 30 amp fuse (in effect bypassing the 30 amp CB). If the fuse blows you know you have a short. If the fuse doesn't blow and the fan works in all positions then you have a weak CB.

If you are saying that you have no input power to PCB #10 feeding the CB that feeds the HVAC, then trace back to check the power cable feeding that PCB. If you have power feeding the PCB but no power feeding the HVAC CB, then the PCB could be defective.

The one thing I noticed in keeping the garage at about 50% humidity year round, nothing rusts. The metal disk brakes are still nice and shiny even though the coach was last driven 6 months ago.

After 9 years mine looked new inside.

Mike, I had pretty much the same experience as you did. Last year I replaced my 9 year old Michelin energy tires with Toyo tires. The Michelins had no side wall cracking. Over the 9 years I put on about 40,000 miles and sold them to a trucker for $100 each. Like you, my coach sits in a garage where I keep the humidity at about 50%. I just couldn't justify the high cost of Michelin tires.

Cummings uses codes based on those generated from their own proprietary Insite software. You will find conversion tables on the internet but are you sure Silverleaf is seeing engine code spn 94 fmi 42? I don't see this as mapping over to a Cummins code based on a quick internet search. Typically fuel delivery pressure codes are associated with a fuel filter plugging, or a flue pressure sensor/electronic signal issue.

A set of wiring diagrams is in our Download files. Here's a link.

Sounds to me like you're not getting power to that board. Are you getting power to the FRB? Batteries good? Breakers in the RRB that feed the FRB good?

Thank you for the background information. The good news is that 2007 model year coaches were some of the best coaches made by Monaco. If you don't already have it, attached is a copy of the owners manual and brochure for your coach. It has a huge amount of important information and well worth your time reading it. On this site in the downloads files you will also find a set of wiring diagrams, technical tips, and the parts list. Welcome to the forum. 2007_Dynasty.pdf 1476904560_brc_pdf.pdf

It's very unlikely that a replacement solenoid caused fluid to be that low. I'd check each of the 7 hydraulic cylinder hose ends and each of the 3 equalization cylinder hose ends connections for leaks. If you find no leaks - great. If you do then you can repair the problem hose. You absolutely either have a leak or a previous owner did a repair of a hose or cylinder and the repair shop didn't do the repair correctly to be sure the fluid tank was filled. When you first got the coach, did you or your service dealer do a fluid level check as part of your maintenance procedure to know that the system was at the proper full level as described in your owners manual?

I use the ring you circled as the max oil level line with the cap screwed all the way into the top of the tank. If you have oil between that ring and the bottom end of the cap you should be just fine. But no higher than that ring you circled. However, losing that much oil means you have a leak. HWH did have issues with the hydraulic hoses and the tank itself cracking. You need to check all the hydraulic hoses going to the cylinders on the 4 slides and the 3 equalization cylinders on the room slide cylinders as well as the hoses to the manifold to find the leak.

Yes, you want to check the oil level when all the slide hydraulic cylinders are retracted. That means, the flat floor wall slide and the generator slide need to be retracted. But, HWH is correct - the X-Slide mechanisms MUST be extended in order to have the slide hydraulic cylinders retracted. So on my coach, according to HWH, two PS slides need to be extended and two slides (flat floor and generator) retracted. In reality the volume of oil in the larger diameter equalization cylinder pushing the piston shaft to retract the slide cylinders is likely pretty close to the volume in the slide cylinders used to extend them. The hydraulic fluid on the slide cylinder shaft side is the same hydraulic fluid on equalization cylinder shaft side and it doesn't go to the tank. So, it looks like Monaco made it simple by saying to have all slides retracted but the oil level can be no higher than 1/2" to the top of the tank. I never had an oil overflow problem. Yes, if you have hydraulic leveling jacks, you check oil level when they are retracted. HWH Operators Manual ml31726.pdf