Frank McElroy

I believe there is a certain time window that after you press vacation mode it will stay on even if the door is reopened. After that window, the next time the door is opened it will go back to normal operation. I don't recall now what that time window is. I just got in the habit of being sure it's still on if I need to open the door at night.

I often dry camp at truck stops overnight and found this to be a great feature on the Jen-air side by side residential refrigerators. Just be sure to turn it back on if you open either door to get your midnight ice cream or adult cold beverage.

On my Jen-air, when dry camping, I select the vacation mode and then close the door. This will block the defrost heaters from turning on. The only catch is that the next time the door is opened, the vacation mode ends and will allow a defrost cycle unless you again press the vacation mode before closing the door.

Glad I could shed more information on the topic. With oil, it's all about high viscosity at low sub freezing temperatures being the problem, and even though heat exchangers are on the low pressure side, with the high oil viscosity they can damage heat exchangers as Monaco found out. Tom Cherry, thanks for editing your original post to correct the issue from being an oil expansion issue to a high viscosity issue causing heat exchanger failures. Bottom line, if you are traveling in very cold weather conditions, use ATF and not AW46 as your hydraulic fluid.

The problem has nothing to do with AW46 expanding as it gets colder - it doesn't. The issue has to do with viscosity. Monaco experience showed a high frequency of hydraulic oil cooler failures when temp get very low - teens, single digits or below zero DF. The high pressure from very viscous AW46 hydraulic fluid, when operating under very cold conditions, was the reason for the hydraulic heat exchanger failures. That's why Monaco changed over to using transmission fluid instead of the cheaper AW46 hydraulic fluid.

That 15w40 sticker was for the engine oil. Your model year coach likely had AW46 hydraulic fluid in the hydraulic oil tank and that sticker is missing. That straw color looks like AW46 too. If you aren't traveling in below freezing weather you can stay with AW46 or change to ATF. The two fluids are compatible with each other.

Your best reference document would be a set of schematics for your coach. (This was mentioned in replies to posts on another forum.) Circuits that use fuses and circuit breakers are all in separate wiring diagram schematics as individual circuits. You will not find a single document anywhere (other than in a set of wiring schematics) listing the hundreds of individual fuses and exactly what each one does in your conventional chassis 12 volt and house Intellitec 12 volt multiplex lighting systems. However, with that said, almost every fuse on the circuit boards in the FRB (front run bay) below the drivers seat, the RRB (rear run bay) and the Intellitec system in the bedroom closet has an LED light that will light up if the circuit is active and the fuse is good. The LED colors red, yellow, green have no meaning as far as colors go. They were for the wow factor and only mean that the circuit is on and that the fuse is good. What is important to know is where to look for a fuse based on the problem you have. For example, house lighting, water pump control, thermostat control, slide controls, you look in the bedroom closet house Intellitec system. Most anything else, chassis related, it's either the FRB or RRB 12 volt electrical bays. And then you have "hidden" fuses for things like solar in the battery boxes and other system fuses in the ceiling between the frame rails behind the cover in the storage bay where you'll find the transmission and Bendix ABS/ATC computers and your Aladdin databus interface. All these fuses will be in your set of schematics. Here is a link to a set of schematics. Print out page 131 and pages 195-202 for Intellitec modules A-H, page 218 for the RRB and page 233 for the FRB. (Yes, I know you have a 2007 Dynasty but the 2006 set of schematics will be close enough.) This will provide you with the fuse labels you need. Also, become familiar with these wiring diagrams and how the electrical circuits work. A wealth of information - more than you could ever imagine but you will need to know if you have a problem.

First follow the big boy cleaning procedure. Since you hear it engaging, likely all it needs is a good cleaning of the interior contacts.

If you are not able to maintain house battery power while driving, the root cause is your big boy not working to connect the chassis to house batteries so that the house batteries are charged by the engine alternator while driving. Either big boy needs to be cleaned or the small control board in the RRB needs to be repaired.. This is actually a very serious issue on a Kongsberg chassis multiplex coach. While driving the house batteries MUST be charged either by the engine alternator or the generator via the Magnum inverter/charger. If driving at night with the lights on, eventually you will lose all house battery power and all dash and lights will go dead yet the engine will still run. In your case until big boy is either fixed or bypassed you should always run the generator while driving. Any time while driving, if house and chassis batteries aren't showing charging voltage, run the generator. As for using a battery pack to jump start, just connect the positive lead on the battery pack to the house battery lug on the side post in the FRB (Front Run Bay) and the other side to ground. The generator battery cable connects to that lug in the FRB. No need to turn OFF the battery disconnect switches (which on most Kongsberg coaches won't power down the FRB anyway).

I removed the duplicate post. Members do have a small window to edit posts (up to 5 hours) after posting to correct edits or to delete the post. Beyond that timeframe a moderator must do it for you.

Since this topic was first posted, there have been a number of developments including an option to repair failed dash switch modules on a Kongsberg Chassis multiplex system and a 5 volt aux power supply to fix most SmartWheel problems. Here is a link to an extensive 12 page thread.

The short answer is no - the power gear valid leveling system has no impact on wiper functions.

If you are talking MPH, that data is pulled off the engine ECM databus. There is no separate Aladdin MPH speed sensor. If your issue is that the MPH on the Aladdin don't match your GPS then the issue is with the setting in the engine ECM for tire size and drive axle gear ratio.

Thank you for the kind words. I'm sure your followup solution and how the troubleshooting was done will help others.

If you find that none of your dash switches work, also check fuse VCA-5 on the FRB large circuit board.

Great talking on the phone last night. A lot easier than back and forth posting. Based on our discussions, since you have power to lug #10 and since the house Intellitec lighting system works, the latching relay and the fuse on top of it feeding power to lug #10 in the FRB are all working. However, since both top LEDs light at the same time when pressing the battery disconnect button, the small PCB powering the latching relay is defective. I'm starting to see a lot of those board failures on 09 Dynasty and Sigs. If you can't find a replacement from a salvage yard, contact me offline - I can repair them. Because you have power to lug #10, the likely reason why your dash switches and other dash functions aren't working a failed relay VCFH. But first, if you haven't already done so, reboot the Kongsberg CCM system by unplugging from shore power, shutting off solar and then disconnecting both house and chassis battery banks. Be sure all LED lights in the FRB are out before reconnecting the batteries. After powering up the coach, hold the dash switch dimmer + rocker switch to display all rocker switch labels. Hopefully all the dash switch modules do light up.

I circled lug #10. Look at the latching relay to the right of the small PCB. There is a fuse on top of it. Cycle your salesman switch. Hold about 5 seconds to turn it off. One second to turn it on. Do you have coach interior lights? Watch this video. You can cycle the battery cutoff latching solenoid from the RRB. PXL_20220923_160412483.mp4

Have you bypassed the salesman latching battery disconnect solenoid in the RRB? If you did, did you move the feed wire and fuse over to the hot side? If not check the fuse on top of the battery disconnect solenoid. Also, check for 12 volts on lug #10 on PCB in FRB. If you have 12 volts replace relay VCFH.

Please confirm that the LED called VCF SW-HSE on the large circuit board in the FRB is ON. If not, please be sure both battery master switches are turned on and if they are, with the ignition switch ON, post a picture of the small PCB in the RRB (Rear Run Bay). I want to see which led lights are ON.

See page 120 in the link to the wiring diagram. The issue is with either the input to the front and rear CCM modules from the turn signal steering wheel mechanism or the output from the CCMs. Do both front and rear right signal lights stay on? Have you changed signal bulbs to LEDs? Try unplugging the turn signal input to the CCM in an effort to isolate the problem. Also, first do a full system reboot by disconnect all batteries to reboot both the front and rear CCMs.

Internally, the CCM uses a separate MOSFET to generate output power on each of the output wires. The MOSFET is also current limiting. That's why you don't see any fuse on an output wire as long as the current is under 10 amps. MOSFETs like any other component don't last forever. Unfortunately, Monaco designed the SmartWheel and dash switches to never shut off. Over time (10+ years) failures on the smart wheel started to show up first with wiper problems. About a year or 2 back, while helping out Brett, I discovered the root cause to be a failing MOSFET in the CCM. That's when I came up with the simple 5 volt power supply fix. It has already fixed dozen of coaches.

Absolutely DO NOT back feed to the CCM.

Eric Russell made a great how to repair video.

You CCM system does NOT have a SmartWheel control box. All SmartWheel functions flow through the CCM module. A weak 5volt supply from the CCM to the steering wheel keypads will cause SmartWheel function like the wipers and cruise control not to work. Read my posted link to see if your symptoms fit. If so, do the 5 volt supply fix. This is a well known problem. It's not a matter of IF it's just a matter of WHEN the 5 volt supply from the CCM MOSFET will fail. You could also have an issue with the clock spring or cable connection but on your coach, by far the problem will be fixed with the 5 volt supply modification. It you want to test to be sure it's a 5 volt supply issue, measure the 5 volt feed with and without a keypad pressed. If it drops below 4.9 volts, that's your problem.

A code reader won't help. Have you already added the supplemental 5volt supply? This is a known failure point on the Kongsberg CCM systems.