Frank McElroy

Thanks for posting an update. One thing that can cause the Intellitec light module to shut down is a case where too much total current for all circuits passing through the module. Not enough to blow a fuse but too much in total for the module. But, I believe you had all LED lights - so current could not be the issue. The only other consideration I can think of was a poor contact of one on one or more led connections causing digital noise. Anyway, Thank you for posting how you resolved the problem.

What you need is the Caterpillar Electronic Technician (CAT ET) software. If you google it you will find options on where to get it. You don't need the latest version. Version that is 10 years old would be just fine for your 2007 coach.

Actually you were correct about not running the aquahot much below about 12.1 volts. The reason is that the burner blower fan will not run fast enough and you run the risk of deforming the combustion chamber. This happened on Bill Grove's (RIP) coach.

No, I've never had to repair this item. If I couldn't source a replacement part, what I would do is to replace any of the aluminum can electrolytic capacitors and if that didn't solve the issue, just replace the relays. Naturally it would be good to try the narrow down what isn't working but without a circuit board schematic and testing voltage outputs from the board, there aren't a lot of options.

Bill, thanks for the reminder. I'm in the process now of looking at a few failed Intellitec keypad boards sent to me by @pwhittle that aren't working. I'll add yours to the project. Easy fixes are the mechanical switch replacement but these board have a different internal component failure. Once i identify the weak link and figure out a fix, this will help rebuild a supply of working replacement boards. Yes, these boards also have a MicroChip with programmable software on it. Luckily, these MicroChips are a lot easier to replace and reprogram vs those on the Kongsberg chassis multiplex coaches.

I want to thank all those following this project for their kudos and kind words of encouragement. Attached is an updated PDF file to the one previously posted. I know - it's very technical but it will help those geeks out there know what was done to repair a Chassis multiplex coach struck by lightning. Eaton E30 module repair Update.pdf

I'm sure this debate will rage on but there is a difference between recommendations from OEM electronic manufactures who say disconnect all their equipment and the practicality of how to properly setup for welding on a vehicle. Sure, it would be nice to have every electronic device (Engine, Transmission, Bendix ABS, Aladdin, Intelitec multiplex, Kongsberg front and rear CCMs, inverter, and all AC appliances) disconnected. Then there is the simple fact of reality. Unplug from shore power, remove the solar fuses (if you have solar) and disconnect all the batteries. Then wire wheel to have a solid ground connection as close to the welding site as possible and then proceed with welding the component. I've done it this way on cars and my coach for years. The OEM manufacturers are trying to protect their computers from a very inexperienced welder who is welding on say a chassis frame member but connecting the ground to the engine block. Yep, that will brick lots of computers!

Definitely something added by a previous owner to control operation of the aux compressor likely for the reason I previously stated. Aside from drawing up a wiring schematic, a voltmeter will quickly tell you if the switch is energizing the relay. From there you can verify that power is flowing through the fuses. I'm guessing but likely the switch is energizing the relay to provide power to the aux pump motor. On the pump will be a pressure switch that turns the pump on/off depending on aux air tank pressure. The light on the switch could be wired to always come on when the switch is turned on or it could only light when the pump is actually running. You won't know until you sketch up a wiring diagram. Keep in mind that the switch might be connecting ground to the relay coil vs providing +12 VDC.

This sure looks aftermarket to me. You should have an Aux Air Compressor that would supply air to a small air tank located on the frame rail in the rear by the DS drive axle. That compressor (mounted on the steer axle H frame) would only be needed when you are parked and in the auto level mode. While driving it would be turned off. Likely what happened is that there was an issue with the large printed circuit board in the front run bay (FRB) and the power feed to the compressor was rewired. Post a few pictures of your FRB and maybe I can spot an extra fuse holder. Otherwise you will need to follow the wires to that switch to see where it's fused.

On your engine, black smoke and no codes almost always means either a bad fuel injector or a leak in the turbo air boost. You mentioned that the tech did a cylinder performance test. So, it's unlikely a bad fuel injector. I would focus on an air leak in the piping between the turbo and intake manifold including a leak in the intercooler. This all assumes that your turbo actuator was verified as working properly. Your engine is getting too much fuel and not enough air.

Something doesn't seem right. I don't think there was ever a dash light for the aux air compressor. Can you please post a picture? The stock aux air compressor was powered via a 20 amp circuit breaker located in the front run bay location VCA10. But, current draw was an issue causing the board to short out or catch fire and a previous owner might have modified the circuit adding a dash light. OEM Wiring diagrams are in Downloads, Electrical, Wiring Diagrams and look at the 2008-9 dynasty set.

If I read your reply correctly, that wheel is only 2 years old. Could very well be a manufacturing defect. I looked up the wheel warranty and for an RV application, it's 120 months against manufacturing defects.

First I've seen something like that. Obviously that tire needs to be deflated and removed as soon as you can a mobile tire service out to your coach. Unless the OP is the original owner, it's hard to say the root cause. Manufacturing defect - odd after so many years, rim was involved in a flat tire incident putting stress of the rim even though there were no visible marks, tire way over pressure causing a stress crack, or the rim was at one time replaced by one involved in a crash. Lots of possibilities but the coach is not drivable with that rim. Good that you caught it.

Part 1.mp4 Part 2.mp4 This two part video was made by Eric Russell and he shows how to add the recommended circuit breakers to better protect the large circuit board in the FRB. There have already been a few cases where this circuit board has caught fire. The theory is that overuse of the auxiliary air compressor causes traces on the board to overheat and catch fire.

Yes

Actually the clue is in the Intellitec schematic. It clearly shows fan speeds on the wires.

The galley heat exchanger is in the upper right with high, med and low speed wires going to the Intellitec output module. Yes, it isn't labeled. Yes, 5 heat exchangers plus the galley heat exchanger is what I have.

Output for the fan under the dash gets its feed from the AH controller. For the 3 speed fan for under sink counter heat exchanger, the AH controller sends an input signal to the Intellitec system. The fan speed is controlled by the 3 outputs from the Intellitec system to the fan motor. These outputs are NOT pulsed. When the front aquahot zone is on, you can press the fan speed keypad to select high, med, low, off fan speeds. The system will remember the last fan speed setting. Here is a detailed schematic. 38071413 (Schematic, Dual Heat Elements, Aqua-hot).pdf The aquahot has 3 circulating pumps. #1 fan/thermo is on circulating pump #1, #2&#4 fan/thermo is on circulating pump #2 and #5 fan/thermo is on circulating pump #3. Note - thermostat zones are NOT the same numbers as aquahot control zones.

On my 08 Dynasty the bath zone has 2 heat exchangers. One is under the shower. The other one in the small room with the toilet can be turned off. If left on, that small room could get too hot. There are 3 hot water circulating loops on 3 separate pumps. The bath and wet bay are on the same circulating loop. Either the bath temp sensor OR the bay temp sensor can turn on this loop circulating pump. The heat exchanger fans in the bath or wet bay will only turn on if the temperature sensor is calling for heat even though hot water may be flowing through the heat exchangers.

This is how your system was designed. Same as on my 2008 Dynasty Zone 1 = Front roof AC/HP and furnace (aqua hot) - remote temp sensor up front Zone 2 = Center roof AC/HP (NO furnace) - temp sensor inside the thermostat Zone 3 = Rear roof AC/HP and furnace (aqua hot) - remote temp sensor in bedroom Zone 4 = Bath furnace (aqua hot and a hidden control box behind the thermostat) (NO roof AC/HP) - remote temp sensor in bathroom BTW, don't be surprised is some zones don't have heat. The zone check valves often stick if not regularly used. If this happens, give them a few sharp hits with the plastic handle of a screwdriver. The check valves are just below the top outlets of the Aquahot zone hoses. sometimes just hitting that hose connection is enough to free the check valve without removing the Aquahot cover.

Bought about a year ago - $230. Works well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08RCBPGSY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I don't know the exact dimensions but it is basically a standard refrigerator 3 row side wall vented opening for a typical Norcold or Dometic refrigerator. On mine it's a solid painted aluminum cover with the same plastic hold clips as a vented cover.

Ouch - luckily my hot air soldering station has a tip holder on the side where you can change hot tips without ever touching them.

I'm very pleased that this all worked out. For others wondering, the project basically started about 4 months ago when Jim sent me his front, old rear, and replacement rear CCMs and all the switch modules for testing. I was able to confirm that the original front CCM was good but the old rear CCM had failed. The replacement rear CCM was good. So I then returned the good front and rear CCM modules. With the smart wheel functions working, the coach was then drivable during the day. Next up was a decision on whether to go down the path of having a touch screen for all the dash switches or figure out how to repair the switch modules. Everyone I talked with really wanted the original switch modules and fix any broken ones as plug and play. So, the task at hand was to draw up a circuit diagram from the double sided printed circuit board inside the master and slave switch modules. These boards had over 100 components on them. Once they were all identified, I was able to replace the defective components including the 28 pin programmable integrated micro circuit. The software program was also corrupted. That's why I need working loaner modules. It's always great to have a success story. This will help others going forward.

Inside each switch module is a circuit board. The same board is used for the two master switch modules. The only difference is the software loaded onto the 28 pin microchip to make it master #1 or #2 Same for all the slave modules. The circuit board is identical - the only difference is the software loaded to make it a slave 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5. When a circuit board is removed and replaced, the rocker switches must also be removed to properly reinsert the LEDs back into the board. Almost all the modules were returned with the LEDs loose and board digital codes not matching what should be in the switch module. In effect the circuit boards inside the switch modules were swapped out.