Frank McElroy

The wiring diagram that Monaco used would have been the same as specified by Cummins. Using Cummins Quickserve and your engine serial number you should fine a wiring diagram for the DPF. Monaco did not have a separate schematic for the engine DPF system.

With the slide fully open and the seat turned, I'm able to remove that 1'x1' access cover on the side. I would think that you have a similar side access cover. As for the schematic numbering, I not aware of any document explaining it. I go by connector numbers and the two other pages in that file you didn't post. Connector FJ4-M means Front CCM connector J4. -M means the M connector lug on J4. J4 is labeled on the CCM casting. If you remove the plug you will see the pin lettering from A-P. After 50+ years of reading schematics it comes as second nature. Now you're going to ask - where did I find that listing - well I made up a listing in Excel of all the J connector pin outs on the CCM modules based on the schematics.

Here is a picture of the resistor on the schematic. Since it's associated with the window harness, if you don't see it as a connector in the harness under the front cap, check the access panel under the driver's side window. It could be located there. BTW, that resistor is to keep LEDs from being dimly lit when handle lights are turned off. Likely you have a wiring or connector corrosion short and the MOSFETs inside the CCM are turning the circuit OFF. Or you have an unplugged connector. Note, the connector for the resistor says FJ4 - sames as in your schematic.

Actually the Cadet software is not very useful. It basically does the same functions as working dash switch modules and not much more. Even if you had the software you would need a specific license code to Monaco corp that is specific to your computer and interface module. Kongsberg no longer gives out those license codes. Since I'm able to read digital output codes from the dash switch modules and repair them, the Cadet software would be a no benefit other than to prove you had a failed switch module. With the dimmer on full brightness, if you don't see the switch rocker text lighting up, you would already know that module doesn't work. The good news is that these obsolete dash switch modules can now be repaired.

Temperature extremes are not an issue unless you let the house batteries run dead.

My best advice is to read all 12 pages in this long saga on how a Kongsberg chassis multiplex system works and how it was repaired. Pay attention to my posts. I describe the importance of always removing power before unplugging dash switch modules, never letting batteries go dead, putting in the 5 volt supply to fix smart wheel issues and adding extra voltage protection relays to the front run bay (FRB). Failed obsolete dash switch modules can now be repaired.

This is a well known problem and there is a documented easy fix. Do a search on the site and you will find a solution. Here is a link and there is also a how to video in the download files. Welcome to the forum.

When the MDS system is energized, oil pressure will push to release the two internal lifter side pins allowing the internal part of the lifter to compress the 3 internal springs in the base of the lifter but they are just not quite strong enough to overcome the strength of the valve lifter. This keeps the lifter constantly rolling on the camshaft and the intake valve doesn't open. When the MDS solenoid closes, the two side pins will reengage and the lifter will move the valve. It's really hard to believe that the check valve and seat for the pushrod is missing with absolutely no wear on the pushrod end. The only thing I can think of is that the outside wall was worn so much is fell out after you removed it. It sure is odd.

Interesting that the internal spring (there should be 3 internal springs plus the check valve spring) fell out but the ring keeper is still in place. I'm wondering if it was only the small check valve and spring fell out.

Thanks for the additional info about the ATC light history and filter changes. Based on this, my best advice is to read the fault code history with a shop that has the Bendix software to read fault codes on your ABS/ATC controller. This codes reader plugs into the same rear port used to read engine diagnostic codes (not your front diagnostic port). Although you could try the self diagnostic feature for the coach ABS system, it might not provide all the detailed diagnostics on the ATC system like a Bendix scan tool would.

It's really hard to tell from the pictures if the cam is good but the lifter rollers sure looks OK. So why wasn't the intake lifter working on cylinder number one. Assuming you can see the cam lobe while cranking the engine, possibilities include broken springs internal to the intake lifter (there are 3 internal springs) a bad MDS solenoid or associated wiring or engine control module powering the MDS solenoid on cylinder number 1 preventing oil pressure from activating this lifter. At this point it would good to sort out if you have failed internal lifter springs or internal lifter check valve or if it's a MDS solenoid or electrical issue powering the solenoid. If an internal lifter springs/check valve failure, just replace it and problem solved. If not, do the MDS delete to be able to sell it.

All hemis in the 1500 built after 2006 have the MDS. The only exceptions to this is the mega cab which is a 2500 chassis and the non-mds HD engine. To be 100% sure check the 8th digit of the vin. If it is D then no MDS. If it is 2 then her truck has MDS. So, likely her 2005 truck doesn't have MDS, but check the vin to be sure.

I'm looking back at your past posts and one thing dawned on me. There was a time when the problem seemed to be fixed after you replaced all the MDS solenoids. Then the problem came back. Since cylinder 1 is part of the MDS system and won't work at all unless you have oil pressure feeding that lifter via the MDS solenoid, I'm wondering you you tried to just put in the solenoid bypass kit sold by Chrysler for the solenoid feeding the number one lifter. That would force the number 1 lifter to work. I'm thinking that you might have a wiring issue or something in the EMC that isn't activating that MDS valve to pressurize oil to the number 1 lifter. What seems very strange is that the number 1 intake lifter is not moving at all but just a little while back you "fixed" that problem just by changing MDS solenoids. Anyway, I think I'd give that a shot first. If the camshaft is good, putting in the Solenoid bypass kit will pressurize the lifter and solve the problem. But if if does fix the problem, you would likely need to bypass the remaining 3 MDS solenoid so the engine always runs on 8 cylinders. I found this to be a pretty good video on what's entailed to change the camshaft along with a video he made to diagnose the problem.

It is very common for this tag axle regulator to leak air and when it does it will need to be replaced. Below is a more detailed air brake system test that you should perform periodically.

Go to the downloads, electrical, wiring diagrams and you will see a set for 2006 Diplomat. Here is a link. Click on the title then select which files you want.

Doing the repair as you described is fine. However you should do a check of the braking system after the repair. Air up the system until the air compressor governor cuts out. With the engine running, wheels chocked, and parking brake released, dump all air from the front wet air tank (drain valve with the male quick connect fitting) and rear main dry air tank. After doing that, you should have at least about 8 full brake applications using air from the front secondary air tank before the parking brake actuates. (On my coach, I get 13 full brake applications before the parking brake automatically popped up.) With the rear air tank empty, steer axle braking will be from the front secondary tank (same as if the main air tank was working). Braking on the drive axle (your main braking axle) will be by the system modulating the parking brake release spring. There are modules that automatically do that for you. There will be no braking on the tag axle. While doing this test, if someone looks from the side of the coach, they should see the drive axle brakes being activated. That's a good way to check that the parking brake modulating system is working should there be a failure of the rear main air tank. Just to complete the story, if you air up the system and this time dump the wet and front secondary tanks, the rear main tank should have at least about 8 full brake applications of the drive and tag axles before the parking brake pops up. (I get 12 full brake applications). With the secondary air tank empty there would be no braking on the steer axle. The system is designed such that in the event of a failure either the Primary or Secondary system you have enough braking applications to safely exit the highway and stop in a safe location vs just immediately pulling onto the shoulder of a busy highway.

Once leveled, my coach stays level for months. So I don't need to use the aux compressor. The circuit breaker is removed. On the attached picture, the black line on top goes to the aux compressor. On the tank tee, the large green line goes to the main rear air tank, the smaller red line goes to the rear bleed valve. The small black line (hard to see in the picture) just above the pressure relief valve goes to feed the air bag valve control manifolds.

In a past picture posted of your compressor head, under the metal reed valve there should be an O-ring. When the reed valve rests on that O-ring, it acts like an internal check valve meaning that you really don't need an external check valve on the compressor. Having one is OK but not as good as having a working internal reed check valve. The nice part about an internal reed check valve in the compressor head is that on the air intake stroke, the volume of air between the internal head reed check valve and the external one won't also count as intake air. This makes the compressor more efficient. Often, that internal reef check valve becomes dirty and when that happens the compressor needs to run a lot longer. I've even seen posts where folks advise to just add an external check valve rather than cleaning the internal reed valve O-ring - in my opinion that's bad advice. Ben is correct, you have a failed PPV valve on your rear main air tank that feeds the small aux air tank. Either you should replace that PPV valve or don't run your Aux air compressor. The reason is that if you use your aux air compressor, it also puts WET air into your main DRY air tank. Your aux air compressor does not have an air dryer on it. Putting WET air into a DRY air tank is not good for your air brake system.

If a lifter doesn't move, the number one and only cause is a destroyed cam lobe. If that's the case, you are in for some major engine work.

Your 06 Executive might not have the 6 second hold feature for all lights ON. This program change was added circa 07-08. I know Bill Groves (RIP) copied my software to modify the software on his 06 Dynasty to add the all lights ON feature. BTW, on coaches like the Sigs, all the standard electric window shades also closed with the all lights off and opened with the all lights on feature. Salesmen liked these wow features to sell high end coaches. Today, many new owners don't know about them unless they read the owners manual.

You may not know it, but the Master keypad on your house Intellitec lighting system has a few hidden features like turning on or off all keypad backlights, turning OFF all lights or turning ON all lights depending on how long you press on the Master keypad. These features are programmed into the Intellitec CPU module software. Here are a few screenshots from the owners manual.

I would start troubleshooting by making sure that your house batteries are reading 12 volts or more, that you have house battery power into the engine compartment rear run bay RRB and that you have 12 volts on both sides of the two latching relays to the right of big boy. It's also good to be sure that none of the breakers in the RRB are tripped. It's likely that you have a failed latching relay, a bad battery cutoff switch or dead house batteries.

I don't think your air drawing is accurate. There should not be a check valve between the pressure switch and the air line going to the small air tank. There will be an internal check valve inside the compressor head and on mine there is also a check valve at the small air tank. There should also be another check valve on the airline between the small air tank and the main air tank. If pressure in the main air tank is increasing from the aux compressor air, it's that check valve that's bad and needs to be replaced. Your aux air compressor doesn't have an air dryer on it and you would be pumping wet air into your dry main air tank.

The ATC system also factors in engine output power that its supposed to generate based on throttle position, RPM, road speed and gear selected. If the engine output power is below what the engine and transmission expect, the ATC light will come on and the system won't function even though all wheel speed sensors are working properly. In this scenario, with the ATC light on, often is an early sign of plugging fuel filters.

I believe your drive axle is rated for 20,000 lbs. If that's the case, I would add about 2-4 more PSI to the tag. This should bring your drive axle below 20,000 lbs. Yes it will add a little to the Steer axle but you have extra capacity on the steer. I think your steer rating is 15,160 lbs and your tag is 10,000 lbs. A light steer axle will also cause the coach to wonder on the highway.