Frank McElroy

Likely you have a big boy that needs to be cleaned. Big boy connects the chassis batteries to the house batteries so that they can be charged while on shore power with both battery disconnect switches turned ON. What is the chassis battery voltage?

Thanks Tom - for future use, here is a link to a new file in our Downloads. The Operating Instructions and Reset Procedure are now in one document.

Steve, thanks for the clarification. I'm not familiar with the NSA system. However, it sure sounds like it was partially applying the brakes.

Thank you for sharing this information. What supplemental braking system did you have on the Equinox?

I would share my previous post with your mechanic. I basically explains why the light comes on and what needs to be done to troubleshoot the warning light. The mechanic will need to use Cummins Insite Software and look at the engine protection parameters with the engine running and the warning light on. They will then be able to see the parameter readings and the acceptable upper and lower limits. One or more parameters will be out of range. Then it's a matter fixing the issue, bad sensor or bad wiring.

Please reread my post.

Dick B is correct - just press the master keypad once to turn ON and OFF all keypad backlights. If you press and hold the master about 3 seconds all interior lights will will turn OFF. If you press and hold about 6 seconds, all interior lights will turn ON. These are features of a coach with an Intellitec CPU lighting system. On your coach you do NOT have backlight switch button - that's found on coaches without an Intellitec CPU because there is no master keypad feature. As for charging the batteries with the battery disconnect turned OFF, the answer should be yes BUT only for the house and not the chassis batteries. If you want both to charge, big boy must be working and you need both battery disconnect switches turned ON for that to happen.

The Warning light is a signal from the engine ECM alerting the driver that an out of range condition exists in one or more of the set engine protection parameters. This may or may not set a trouble code. What needs to be done is to look at the engine history data using the Cummins Insite software paying attention to the history of coolant temperature, coolant level, oil pressure, intake manifold temperature, and engine overspeed (there may be other parameters that I missed). Keep in mind that you could also have a bad sensor giving a false reading. Likely one of these parameters are running too high or too low as defined in the engine ECM parameters and the warning light comes on to alert the driver that you exceeded an engine protection parameter. On newer engines, this would be logged in the engine abuse history report but I don't think Cummins had that feature in 2002. There was a good discussion about this back about 4 years ago.

Take a look at inactive codes. Likely that's where you'll find out what turned on the engine warning light.

Dan - Thanks for sending me the 4 new files. I added them to the existing 4 files we already had on the Medallion Gauges in our File Downloads. Here is a link to the set of 8 files.

See the first line in the first post.

Great advice - This dryer had evidence of corrosion beyond repair.

Most any NLGI 2 Lithium complex grease would be a good choice. I use Mobil MOBILITY SHC 220. It takes me less than one tube of grease to grease all 27 grease fittings on my tag axle coach. After greasing I wipe off all the excess grease from each grease joint. I still use an old long handle grease gun that I bought back over 50 years ago.

I think a bit more background history on the Facebook Monaco Group name change is in order. The original Facebook "Monaco RV Owners Group", formed on 8/31/2017, changed its name to "1st Monaco RV Owners Group" about 2 days ago. This is a private moderated group that screens members and reviews content much like we do. Back on 7/14/23, a couple of members banned from the original FB group, decided to form a new public unmoderated Facebook group called "Monaco RV Owners" and so far Facebook has allowed the virtually identical name to stay. For that reason, the original group decided to add "1st" to their original name.

You need to do your search on the "1st Monaco RV Owners Group" Facebook site. (Not the "Monaco RV Owners" Facebook site.)

On your coach, the HVAC gets power from the 30 amp fuse VCE5/6 on the large PCB in the FRB. It is not powered through the CCM like the wipers.

Two words of caution: 1) NEVER use anything other than a hand grease gun on the TRW gearbox shaft output grease fitting. If you use a high pressure grease gun, you will force grease past the internal seal and into the hydraulic oil. 2) NEVER use moly grease on your drum brake slack adjusters - it's too slippery and the slack adjusters won't function properly.

Thank you for the kind words and I'm glad you were able to start the coach engine. Yes, your coach is driveable. As for all the other LED lights being out in the RRB, the left side of the circuit on the board you removed has a MOSFET that's used to power all the LEDs on all the boards in the RRB. So, without this power supply, none of the other LEDs on those boards will light but all the boards should function just fine. If you look closely at the wiring diagram of the board you removed, there is a label called TEST. You will see this label on all the other boards in the RRB wiring diagrams. All locations labelled "TEST" are connected together. Basically the purpose of all those LEDs lighting up is to test to visually show that those individual circuits have power without the need of a voltmeter. I thought why add more complexity to the procedure to start and run the engine with yet another set of procedures to build a circuit to operate those fancy wow indicator lights that you really don't need unless you are trying to troubleshoot problems in the RRB. Glad you're getting to the bottom of the comm error problem. I think your likely issue is the K1 relay or associated pcb connections.

Ok, I think I figured it out. Look at the circuit board schematic. On that board the wire on J4 sends 12 vdc power to the engine ECM when the ignition has been turned on. So, if relay K1 is starting to go bad, the ECM will lose the ignition signal - that's likely your problem. That means you also need to connect a wire through a 20 amp fuse from 12VDC to the wire that was on terminal J4. This will tell the ECM that that ignition is turned on. That wire would need to either be switched or disconnected when the engine is off. Now it makes sense as to why this board is causing your problem. Should be an easy fix for the candy shop.

It could be that something was pulling down the ignition signal when you pressed on it. You'll know tomorrow when you try the test start.

I'm a bit surprised that this board would in effect cause the equivalent of cycling the ignition switch when you pressed on it. I don't see on the ignition switch schematic where the ignition feeds through this board to the engine ECM. If it does, then my trick to turn on the ignition and jumper that 12 VDC wire to the relay terminal won't work to start the engine. If it doesn't work, I'll investigate more. Most times an intermittent ignition loss signal is an ignition switch going bad. Com failure means that the dash cluster computer lost communication with the engine ECM because of a databus issue or an ignition lost signal to the engine ECM.

They are the same as the dynasty/signature. They are in our Downloads, under Electrical, Wiring diagrams. Your other option is to turn on the ignition and use a wire to touch the starter relay lug circled in red to a 12 volt source. This will crank the starter and start the engine. If you want, just use the 12 volt wire that was on R1 that you removed. Just touch it to the starter relay terminal circled in red.

No, you don't need the board. You just add a fuse between pins 2 and 4 on connector J2 that would plug into the board.

Add a 15 amp fuse on connector J2 between pins 2 and 4. This will in effect bypass this board. 38031552 (Schematic, Keyswitch Ignition).pdf 38040024 (Schematic, RRB Board 1).pdf

The S connections are internal to the wiring harness. You'll need to follow the wire to find it. From what you are describing, it sounds like a poor ground on the parking/signal light assembly.