Frank McElroy

I have nearly the same situation as you do but it is the top rear that doesn't seal as well as the top towards the front of the coach when the slide is fully extended. On my slide, most of the weight is towards the front where the sofa is located. The rear end of that slide only has the table and chairs. What I did discover is that if I stood on the rear portion of the slide and it was enough added weight to tilt out the slide corner just a bit to seal the top of the slide to the wall and it stays sealed. The extra weight was enough to tweak this drop-down slide enough to seal it. But, one thing I did notice is that when Monaco mounted the inside top seal on the slide the distance between this top seal is off a bit with the rear top corner being about 1/4" farther away from the wall. Duh - no wonder why it didn't easily seal. It's always been on my to-do list to relocate that seal but it never reached the top of my priority list.

My engine hatch assembly must be different than yours. On mine I removed the bottom bolt on each side. That allowed the door to tilt enough to attach the gas strut without compressing it.

I recall about a year after taking delivery that I had a strut go bad. Monaco shipped me two new ones. At the time what I did was to remove part of the hinge assembly so that the strut could be attached fully extended and then I used ratchet straps to pull the door into position to replace the part I removed. Now, that was about 16 years ago so I don't exactly recall the part of the hinge assembly I removed but it worked without needing to compress the strut.

Lift the hinged second step - there should be a plastic bin to unscrew

Even though you are plugged in have you checked your chassis battery voltage. I believe your hydraulic pump is working off your chassis batteries and if your Big Boy is not working properly, your chassis batteries could be low.

Here are a few files that can help if you don't already have them. Check to be sure you have power coming out of the 30 amp circuit breaker on the FRB PCB#10.2007 Monaco Signature Wiring Diagrams (4).pdf2007 Monaco Signature Wiring Diagrams (4).pdf

If the keypad indicator light lights up indicating that the lights should be lit, then there is nothing wrong with the keypads. The problem is with the output module in the closet or the wiring to the lights. Look at the labels and find the one labeled for the keypad your pressing and see if the associated green indicator led lights up. If it does, that's telling you that the module is sending the output voltage to the light. If the indicator led lights and the fuse is good, then you likely have a wiring issue to the lights or, possibly a loose ground connection for the light circuits - is this on a slide out?

John, Thanks for the writeup - I included it in our files.

Not sure how the 2013 Diplomat electrical system is setup but if the voltage is fluctuating between 13.6 and 13.1, and the engine is cold, this is likely due to the engine intake grid heaters cycling on and off. I've noticed this on startup for a few minutes on my ISL engine.

The biggest concern on a chassis multiplex coach is that when you bring it to a shop for any service or repairs, the shop does not either plug it into shore power or shut OFF the battery disconnect switches if the coach is going to sit awaiting repairs. If a Kongsberg chassis multiplex coaches sits for days on the lot with the battery switches turned ON, you run the risk of the house batteries slowing going dead and damaging the multiplex dash switch modules. These Eaton E-30 dash modules can't be powered at less than 4 VDC for more than 5 minutes according to the Eaton spec sheet. I just recently repaired 3 damaged dash switch modules on a coach that sat at a repair shop and the batteries went dead.

If you don't have a printer to print your own copy, Staples can print it from a PDF file. At $0.20 per page not cheap but it's an option.

You likely either have a failed Automatic Energy Selector Switch that routes AC power to either the rear AC or washer/dryer. This Intellitec AES module is often hidden below the closet floor in the area where the aquahot heat exchanger is located. Or, the other possibility is that if you have an energy management system in your electrical panel, the relay on the circuit board failed. Your coach has either an energy management circuit board in your panel box or an AES module. As for wiring diagrams, check the Downloads. The 2007 Signature should be very close to your 2007 Dynasty.

I think Victron now makes a dual in dual out inverter charger. Would need to study it a bit more but it looks like it would be a direct replacement for a Magnum on a Dynasty and above coach with an inverter sub panel. Victron Energy MultiPlus-II 12/3000 Inverter/Charger - 2 X 120V Model Rating: 0%

No direct experience but a Google search of reviews showed mixed results at best. 2.5 out of 5 with 33 reviews.

Those voltage readings are meaningless because a screw attaching the plastic case to plywood is NOT a proper ground. You should have used the ground bus bar near the bottom of the cabinet. With Module F J4 unplugged, since slides do NOT, move out unless the ignition is ON, most likely the issue is with configuration of the HWH control box. To get it fixed you will need to go back to the wiring schematics for the interface wiring between the Intellitec Multiplex system and the HWH control box and configuration of this control box. This is way to complex to solve online. If you are versed in reading wiring schematics and troubleshooting electrical systems and want to discuss in greater details, please send me a PM.

A few comments. 1) Always park with the steer wheels straight ahead, NEVER turned. If the front air bags lose air the tires could damage the side fiberglass. 2) When parked, the two drive axle air bags and the associated side tag air bags on the same side are connected together via the HWH or Power Gear air valve leveling system. A control valve leak, air line leak or airbag leak would cause that side to lose air and the coach to lean. This will also twist the coach because that side up front will have a lot more weight on the 2 steer axle air bags. Get the leak fixed and dump airbags until it's fixed so the chassis doesn't twist.

First, if you you want to do is to disable big boy, you have 2 choices. 1) remove the small wire on the big boy solenoid or 2) unplug the 8 pin plug in RRB board #6 - this will also disable operation on the salesman switch latching relays. Trying to remove one of the sensing wires on a battery disconnect switch is way too hard to do on your coach. Access to the rear of these switches is via an access cover on the side of the small battery compartment and if you have batteries in there they would need to be removed for access. Second, the blue wire is the ignition ON sensing wire but BEFORE, testing this for voltage, unplug connector J4 and see if the slides go IN and OUT with BOTH the ignition ON and OFF.

For the engine brake, if you haven't already done so, take a look at page 63 and connector M8. From there you should be able to trace the wiring from the Jake brake switch to the engine ECM. A shop with Cummins Insite software will be able to determine if the engine ECM "sees" if you are activating the jake brake switch. This will isolate the problem to either an input issue to the engine ECM or an output issue from the ECM to the solenoids under the valve cover. If you go to Cummins Quickserve, you should be able to download a wiring diagram for your engine. The Jake brake circuit would be on the OEM side of that engine wiring diagram specific to your ISM-500.

Well - this is a first time that I've even seen the ignition slide lockout reversed. Connector J4 is on the upper left of module F. It has 3 wires. Look closely at the circuit board and connector to see if pin numbers 1-5 are listed. You want pin 2 and it should be a blue/red wire if the schematic is correct. This would be your ignition input. Unplug connector J4 and see if the slides work both IN and OUT. Also see if you have voltage on the ignition input wire J4 pin 2 only with the ignition ON.

I'm curious - before cutting out that side wall metal support, did you look at what other structural support you had in the wall and if cutting that metal support would compromise the wall structural integrity?

If you are talking about the tie rod dust boots, they are listed with suppliers in the Parts List File on page 36. Just search for "tie rod". If you are talking about replacing the tie rods, those are Dana Eaton parts and the part numbers are listed in the attached document. Your steel axle number should match one of those listed in this Dana Eaton document. This document is also in the Downloads files as well as the Parts List File. Eaton Steer Axle Parts List - rr_axip-0075.pdf

2005 was a transition year where Monaco started to replace conventional house lighting switches with an Intellitec multiplex lighting system and electronic keypad switch modules. As it turns out, the wiring diagrams for the 2005 Executive were for early production models with a conventional switch house lighting system. The wiring diagrams for the 2005 Dynasty were for the late production models with the Intellitec multiplex lighting system and the electronic keypad switch modules. Signature, Executive, and Dynasty models basically share the same wiring diagrams. The Downloads file titles and descriptions now show the distinction between conventional and multiplex house lighting systems.

The picture of your RRB looks just like mine and very much appears OEM. I want to be sure that these facts are true for your coach 1) the hydraulic pump and generator starts from house batteries and not chassis batteries, 2) slides move in ONLY with the engine OFF and 3) slides move ONLY with the engine running are correct. If the above 3 are correct, you actually have separate issues. To sort them out, you will need to follow the low voltage high current wiring diagram and with turning off the battery disconnect switches be sure that battery inputs to the bottom of the RRB and side of the FRB are from the correct battery source cables. If battery trays were reconfigured, the wrong battery source could have been connected to the RRB. On the FRB, be sure the generator and hydraulic pump cables are connected to the chassis battery cable input stud. As for the slide outs, the ignition slide lockout is an input to the Intellitec multiplex system in the bedroom cabinet. In this system, the Intellitec CPU is programmed to activate the hydraulic pump relay and slide OUT solenoid ONLY when the ignition input signal is OFF. However, the slide IN can be activated with the ignition ON or OFF. So, either someone removed the ignition lockout sensing wire or reprogrammed the CPU (highly unlikely). Please see if you have the ignition input wire J4 pin 2 connected to the module F on the Intellitec system and test to be sure it has voltage with the ignition switch turned ON.

The positive cable passed through a current sensing coil just on the other side of the battery box. Look between the large and small battery boxes where cables for the battery disconnect switches are located and you should see it. The small wires go to the Aladdin module.

Good - a 30 amp DC to DC should have been just fine - no alternate abuse there.