Frank McElroy

One thing to keep in mind is that at low altitudes, Cummins factored in EGR operation as a way of lowering exhaust temperatures. So, if you are climbing long grades at full throttle (something you shouldn't be doing even with EGR - you should be climbing at max HP RPM), without an exhaust temperature pyrometer, you do run a risk of eventually burning a valve seat or burning a hole in a piston.

For wiring diagrams, look in the downloads section of the site. Here is a link to the set of diagrams you likely need.

Try selecting "content title only" option when doing your search.

Yes, read the file description and the notes in the lower right corner of each file page. Navigator is listed. Here is a link to a topic about the system that gives some additional info on tge Kongsberg system.

Kent, well, I first thought that HR didn't convert over to a chassis multiplex system but they sure did. That being the case here is a link to a set of wiring diagrams for your coach. If you click on the title and not in the words download this file, you get an option to download all pages as one file.

Get a copy of the engine abuse history report. Any shop with Cummins Insite software can do this for you. In the report look at the actual history of how hot the engine has been running and the severity of overheating. This report will show engine temperature data from the time the engine was built. I wouldn't buy the coach without reviewing this report pulled from the engine ECM.

Like Paul said, the gauges can be connected in any order. They are all receiving the same multiplexed digital signals passed from one gauge to the next. The electronics inside the gauge will sort out which digital signals they need. Just connect the wiring harness in whichever order the cables best fit and they all will work just fine.

Terry, Please post pictures of your two thermostats. I want to see if they are the original 5 button thermostats. When you said that you reset the thermostats and waited 5 minutes, I'm wondering - did you actually reboot them? If you have the 5 button thermostats, you do this by first turning the bottom switch to OFF then while holding in Mode AND Zone buttons at the same time while you turn the switch to ON. You should see the code FF - there is no wait time. This resets communications between the thermostat and the AC units. Keep in mind, if you only removed power to the thermostats, that doesn't reboot them. The thermostats may be thinking they are communicating with the Aquahot furnace but actually they are not. After rebooting each thermostat and getting the code FF, do you still see the furnace option on each thermostat? This will tell us if the thermostats are communicating with the control boards in the roof AC units. These control boards feed the call for heat signal to the AquaHot control board.

What thermostat do you have? It looks to me like none of the zones are calling for heat. If you have a 5 button electronic thermostat reboot it. If you have an electronic thermostat, the fuse is on a fuse block in the cabinet where the Intellitec modules are located. That's the same fuse that powers 12 vdc to the control boards in the roof AC units that also feed the furnace heat command signals to the Aquahot board.

Can you take a picture of the Aquahot control panel and post it so we can see which LEDs are lit? If you have the 5 button thermostat, if you can read it the fuse is good. There are only two other fuses, a 25 amp breaker in the RRB powers the control board and a separate 15 amp fuse powers the galley blower.

The indicator light on the Intellitec keypad only indicates that the CPU received a signal from the keypad that the Aquahot 110 keypad was pressed. It does not indicate that module C was turned on to energize the heater relay nor does it indicate that the heater has actually turned on. That's why not seeing the keypad indicator light turn ON most likely means a problem with the keypad. It could also be a problem with the CPU but that would be extremely rare.

I believe you have a conventional and not a Kongsberg chassis multiplex coach. If that's the case, this set of wiring diagrams will be very close to your model year coach. To get a complete set in one file, click on the title in the link below (don't click on download this file) and download the PDF file. If you click on download this file you'll get the option to download each 250+ pages one at a time.

On mine, after putting the transmission in neutral, setting the parking brake and getting out of the drivers seat to open the door, the air seal is deflated. Likely, you have a small restriction in the vent of the solenoid used to pressurize the door seal.

Send @pwhittle a PM and see if he has a working keypad to program for you. He also has spare keypad switch buttons he can solder on the board if that's your problem. Right now I'm working on repairing failed modules but don't now have a working spare one. If Paul doesn't have a spare module, you could try a salvage yard for any 4 or 6 button module and then either Paul or I could reprogram it for you. Your last, most expensive, option is to contact M&M. They have done keypad repairs but it won't be cheap.

Thanks for the PM and our phone conversation. We'll post a summary update of what was done to fix the switch module after repairs are completed and the module is back working in your coach.

When you shut off the battery disconnect switches did all the interior lights go off? The ceiling lights turning off means the power was disconnected to the cpu so it would reboot when disconnect switches were turned back on. If the interior lights did go out when you shut off the battery disconnect switches, which would reboot the CPU, then very likely you have a bad keypad.

When you turn on Aquahot Diesel does the diesel keypad indicator light come on? Assuming the diesel keypad light comes on and assuming that you already rebooted the Intellitec CPU by shutting off the batteries of by using the salesman switch (if not already bypassed), then look at the led lights on multiplex module C and see if the AH 110 lights come on. Note that the AH 110 must be on before AH Hi will work. If the correct LEDs on module C don't come on, check the appropriate fuse on that module.

Take some pictures of the connector and post them.

Clark, I forgot to mention - welcome to Monacoers.org. I think you will find a lot of very useful information on the forums and a wealth of information in our Download files including our parts list, technical tips and wiring diagrams. If you want to know a bit about my experience with a Kongsberg CCM chassis multiplex coach system, read this thread. Pages 11 & 12 are basically the conclusion of how a system hit by lightning was brought back to life.

I do have spare OEM connectors and female pins. So that's also and option. Yes the module with the green sticker is a REV replacement module. The wires in the link below use the same size connector pins that are on the switch modules. Yes you only need 4 female to female wires but they sure come in handy at least for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GD2BWPY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&th=1

In almost all cases the problem is with a loose connector on the flashing module. Make sure the connector is well seated. If that doesn't work, try swapping cables to isolate the bad female connector. If you are handy, you can remove and replace the female pins. If it's the actual switch module, yes they can be repaired and reprogrammed - send me a PM.

In case you don't have them, here is a link to a set of wiring diagrams for your coach. To get the option to download all pages in one file click on the title (not download) in the link below. The battery boost switch not working is likely due to a failure of a component on PCB #6 in the rear run bay. I've seen this a number of times on your model year coach. This board has the remote battery boost and salesman switches on it. The led lights on the board will help identify the problem.

This fan is powered from the rear Kongsberg CCM located in the ceiling of the first bay behind the steer axle. The panel between the frame rails will need to be removed to gain access. Open the black CCM cover and the 30 amp fuse F2 and relay K3 are for the condenser fan motor. Most times this motor goes bad and pops the fuse.

You likely have AW-46 hydraulic fluid - color is amber. That's fine as long as you don't drive the coach in temps below about 20 degrees F. Was black moly grease used when the steering gearbox was last greased? Hopefully the gearbox was greased by hand and not by an air grease gun. An air grease gun pressure can blow out the internal seal causing hydraulic fluid to leak out and mix with the grease.

For electrical schematics, go to the site downloads, under electrical, click on wiring diagrams. If you have a conventional chassis, select the Dynasty 2008 schematics. If you have a Kongsberg CCM chassis multiplex coach, select the Dynasty 2008-9 schematics set.