vanwill52

Yes, Lambert charger is green.

No, the ML-ACR is not a "smart device" in that sense. Its electronics only control whether or not it combines battery banks based on available charging source. There are BLM devices sold by many lithium battery sources that accomplish the function you are seeking.

Be aware that the remotes offered by Dometic for Fantastic Fan do not have multiple codes available. Any remote operates any fan. PITA when two fans are located in proximity to one another, since it is virtually impossible not to operate both fans at once. Mine were bought shortly after Dometic acquired Fantastic Fan, and multiply-coded remotes may be available, but knowing Dometic...probably not. Dometic is on its way to replacing Lippert as the designer and builder of the poorest quality products available. Customer support is all but non-existent.

To my knowledge, the ML-ACR installation does not affect anything about the inverter/charger or any Automatic Generator Start features. You are no more prone to "boiling batteries" than you were before installation. I have about 1000 AH of battery power in (8) oversized 6 volt batteries. I use much less water after installing the "Water Miser" extra-height cell caps. When my coach is sitting for a month, it barely takes any distilled water at all. Be prepared to make (or have made) and additional 4/0 cable or two.

Perry, the first pix I posted shows the original SSI, the Lambert Charger, and the Battery Boost (Big Boy) contactor. It also shows the original Master Cut-Off Switches for the Chassis and Coach. I replaced those switches simply because of their age and that they looked gimpy. The second pix shows the SSI, Lambert, and Big Boy removed and replaced by the ML-ACR. The second pix also shows the two replacement Blue Sea Master Cut-Off switches installed. It really is a very simple installation if you do not have a BIRD or IRD, and probably is only marginally more difficult if you DO have those two systems. You will likely need to have at least (1) 4/0 cable made to suit your installation. If you cannot locate the existing bundle of unused wires in the driver console that run to the engine area, you must run one additional wire if you wish to install the remote switch. I highly recommend the remote switch. You can activate any function of the ML-ACR using nothing but the yellow knob on top of the ML-ACR, but the remote switch is quite handy. Once again, in summary, the ML-ACR does only ONE thing--It either connects both battery banks together, or disconnects them, based on whether a charging voltage (from ANY source) is present. Your alternator will continue to charge your chassis batteries, regardless the position of the ML-ACR, and will charge both battery banks any time ANY charging source is available. When you come to a stop and cut the engine off, the ML-ACR will have both your battery banks combined. After a short delay with no charging voltage coming from the alternator, the ML-ACR will disconnect the battery banks, preserving your chassis batteries. When you plug into a pedestal, your inverter/charger will present a charging voltage, and the ML-ACR will once again connect both battery banks until that charging voltage disappears. The remote switch allows you to FORCE a disconnect of the two banks, or for battery boost requirements, FORCE them to be connected.

Scotty, as of now, I have not replaced a BIRD with the ML-ACR, but I'm sure I'll be faced with it at some time in the near future. Sorry I can't help. Paul Whittle may be able to help you. I know you two guys are close friends.

Once again trying to help friends with problems. Coach is a 2011 Camelot 43 with ISL 400. It is a bath-and-a-half model with four slides. The two front slides are 30” slides, hydraulically actuated with an HWH system.The DS front slide includes the double kitchen sinks, residential fridge, and stacked (but separate) Ariston W/D. The washing machine drain and kitchen sink drains are joined by black PVC? to exit to below the slide into a very rugged 1.5” white drain hose (spa hose?) obviously designed to withstand constant flexing as the DS front slide extends and retracts. The PVC exits beneath the DS slide with an elbow to “aim” the 1.5” heavy hose crossways of the coach. The heavy 1.5” hose is funneled through some steel tubing (meant to protect it, certainly). On the passenger side of the coach, the 1.5” hose is guided by some rollers to turn towards the rear of the coach, where it is then supported from beneath by a 1/8” thick aluminum “shelf” on which it is intended to “coil up” as the DS slide retracts. At that point, the 1.5” hose is directed to a bung on the Gray Tank. Unfortunately (and incorrectly, I suspect) the elbow connecting the 1.5” hose to the Gray Tank is aimed straight towards the DS of the coach (directly crossways of the coach). That means that each time the DS slide is extended, this 1.5” hose must make a 270* turn to enter the elbow going into the Gray Tank...or more nearly a sharp 90* turn at the elbow going into the Gray Tank.NOW—the problem. This 1.5” hose can only make that sharp a turn a limited number of times before it “kinks” and begins breaking down the wire support of the hose material. The hose has finally flexed/kinked enough times to (1) develop a small leak, and (2) to begin to be restrictive enough to slow down whatever appliances are connected to it.Until today, only the small leak (which traveled all the way to the wet bay (DS) on top of the Gray Tank) was evident. The owner (a capable guy with a capable wife) assumed, as I did, that he had a leak in some fitting behind the wet bay panel. A couple of years ago, I had sawed his wet bay panel in half in the middle and made a very sturdy way of removing each half separately. When we removed the RH half, we saw the leak was actually coming from the PS of the coach, flowing across the top of the Gray Tank, and dripping down behind the wet bay panel.NOW—how about a solution? Obviously, the 1.5” hose needs to be replaced. That in itself seems a mammoth job. CAN ANYONE OFFER ANY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE IN REPLACING THIS HOSE? The only solution I see, given the extremely tight spacing of the components, is to saw a "hatch" into the floor to access the area where the 1.5" hose enters the Gray Tank, REPOSITION the elbow going into the Gray Tank and replace the 1.5" hose. Anyone else ever replaced this 1.5" hose?And at least as importantly, has anyone found that the elbow entering the gray tank should have been aimed slightly toward the rear of the coach (instead of aimed directly crossways toward the DS), to prevent the 1.5’ hose from having to make a close-quarters 90* bend?Sorry for the length of this post, but so many posts begin with asking help and giving so few details that folks who could be of great help simply don’t want to ask all the obvious questions the OP should have included. Sorry I cannot include pix. The area is inaccessible and barely visible.Please help me help these folks! They are wonderful, loving Christian people who led me to faith. They are parked in my RV shed at the moment. We have a short punch-list of things to attend to, but this one is the most difficult.

I do not have a 12.5 Onan. But on a trip to Quartzsite a few years ago, one of my friends had a problem with his 12.5 Onan genny in a 2011 Camelot shutting down for no apparent reason. It NEVER threw a code. Since we were dry camping in the desert, that was a distressing problem. In desperation, my friend called an Onan/Cummins field service technician. The tech could not read any error codes. We tried running the genny with no load, and with all three AC units operating for a sustained (30 minute) period. It performed perfectly. Grabbing at straws, the tech replaced the control board for the genny. No disrespect to the tech--he had no idea what was wrong and neither did any of us tech-savvy folks. As you might suspect, that did not fix the problem, even though the total cost was about $1250. Long story short--it was grass and weeds caught up in the air intake grill under the genny. Why did it never throw an overheat code (even with the new control board)? I have no idea. But my friend constantly checks his air intake now. I mention this because it is something ANYONE can check. It might not be your problem...but it might.

Lippert = Dometic = schmuck customer service + second-rate product quality + third-rate design quality. Virtually any Dometic or Lippert product is going to give trouble and technical support will be virtually non-existent. Standard tech support answer: "Please contact one of our HIGHLY TRAINED dealers for technical support." Yeah, let me know how that works for you. Been there, done that.

As Ivan said, there is nothing unusual about these cylinders. Any competent hydraulics shop can repair them. One near me replaced all the seals in my generator slide hydraulic cylinder while I waited. Took about 30 mins. $20 That was for parts only but they installed the rod seal in the end cap for me, since it took a special tool to "fold" the seal before installing it.

I my recent experience over the last few years, Dometic, never a stellar company to start with, is rapidly trying to overtake Lippert as the "King of Non-Support" and the manufacturer of increasingly poor quality products. Their poor quality often begins with the weak engineering staff's performance in the design stages. Witness the rollout of the highly-touted NXT A/C unit several years ago. All the reports (from Dometic) were of how technologically advanced it was. It all read so well, I delayed replacing my two roof units for almost two years as I waited for the product to become available. I finally gave up and bought two then-current Brisk Air 15K units. In all the time I tried to get info by calling Dometic, I got the response Walter got. And they told me to "contact our highly trained resellers" for information. I finally called three of the largest retailers in the country. Two of them had never HEARD of the NXT. One said, "Oh, that's only for the European market." So much for "highly trained"! Years after being announced, the NXT units are finally becoming available, but are certainly not garnering any rave reviews--just another mediocre Dometic product. I wish I had bought Coleman, the choice of most high-end coaches. And look what happened to Fantastic Fan. When it was a family-owned business, their customer service was LEGENDARY. Once acquired by Dometic, the product (which they don't appear to have changed, other than adding a remote control) is still very good, but customer support is non-existent. I bought two of the units to update mine primarily because they had a remote control for use by my short wife. After installation, I discovered that either remote would operate either fan. Try as you would, you could not stop one remote from operating both fans at once. I was sure there must be differently coded remotes (or ways to flip DIP switches). I called Dometic. REPEATEDLY. Finally got some clueless desk jockey to tell me that "All our remotes are coded alike and cannot be changed." Mediocre engineering strikes again! I have decided to vote with my wallet. I will not buy another Dometic product of any kind.

As someone noted, the Warning light comes on for a large number of (often not related) reasons. In my 2000 Dynasty ISC-350, the warning light had been on for years. I have the Silverleaf VMS-PC and its diagnostics reported "Power supply voltage invalid". A Cummins tech could not read any code. Several years later, the ECM shut down and coach had to be towed to replace the ECM. It turned out the "Power supply voltage invalid" was correct. It was referring to the internal power supply of the ECM, but Cummins could not read a code. Once the ECM was replaced, the warning light extinguished. I wish I could have gotten an answer from Cummins before the ECM crapped out totally. Even though the VMS-PC picked up the code, their system does not correspond one-to-one with Cummins fault codes. I have also seen the warning light come on momentarily under full throttle when fuel filters were just beginning to clog, and stay on permanently when the electrode in the coolant tank became corroded. There are so many reasons for it to come on that if you can't get the code read, it does not tell you much. It can be signaling something very serious...or not.

Ken, one need not connect even a single small wire for the ML-ACR to do its job. The first small wire you MIGHT consider using is the one that allows you to remotely control (override) the built-in programming of the ML-ACR using a switch that pops right into the previous "Battery Boost" location. The ML-ACR offers several options like disconnecting when the engine is cranking, disconnecting when alternator and genny are running, etc. Most folks do not use those options, but they are available. It is a VERY capable device that is simple, bulletproof, and guaranteed for as long as you own it.

Rob, the cord is 30' and is SEOW cord. After a talk with a cable manufacturer (who could only supply the cable with no ends attached), he told me to always look for an "E" in the cord designation if I needed it to be truly flexible in very cold temps. "E" stands for "elastomer". There are SOW, SOOW, STW...etc. He said the least flexible will always have a "T", which stands for "thermoplastic". The "clutch" is what makes the device such a pleasure to use. You simply push down on the lever with the motor running and you can ease the cable onto the drum and make it coil perfectly. The very expensive, high quality YELLOW cable I still own is by Marinco, known for great quality marine products, but I never carry it with me. It is STW, and stiff as a brick in cold weather. I could barely get it coiled up enough to get it into my storage bay in cold weather. After purchasing this SEOW flexible cord, I repurposed the yellow Marinco one, and it is now my permanently installed cord in the RV shed. As Bill B once said, "Some cords have a hard-on in cold weather." LOL Yes, the genny door can be closed when the cord is removed. The cord does not have a permanent connection to the coach. The end you see is the Twist-Lock type that connects to the coach. The other end is the standard male 14-50P (?) that plugs into a pedestal. The reel I made is nothing but a storage device. I still carry a 15' extension cord (SEOW) in the bay for times when needed. Thanks. It is truly the second most useful modifications I ever made to the coach. The first was the Samsung residential fridge. The third was a powered MCW front windshield shade. And here's a shout-out to Bob (RIP) and Sue Haught, who sold me this marvelously maintained coach in 2013. Due to their meticulous maintenance, I have enjoyed the luxury of only having to do "upgrades" and "improvements" instead of "repairs". It has been a marvelous coach that I've put over 80K miles on (Alaska and back in 2016) and enjoyed every minute and every new friend I've made along the way. The old girl is about to tick over 200K. Safe travels... Safe travels! Rick A and Ray Davis, you are both great contributors in the spirit in which my good friend Bill D always wanted his forum to be--a place where you could get help on just about anything from folks who had "actually DONE it", not just read about it. As the "crusty ol' Buzzard" Bill said one morning at his house while serving breakfast, "If you've only read about it and haven't actually DONE it, post somewhere else!!" Dave Pratt, Ivan K, Bob Nodine, Tom Cherry, David (427), and countless others continue to carry on Bill's wishes. Kudos to you all! BTW, however much Bill D might have been endeared to the southern dish "scrapple", if it's ever offered to you, either politely decline or say, "Well, I'll just try a wee bit." LOL

I always envied the guys with power reels for their 50A cords. But I was short of room in the bays and also did not want a commutator-type reel. I had room in front of my Onan and decided to put a reel there. I bought a hand-cranked cord reel from Mor-Ryde, machined a new shaft, eliminated the hand wheel and converted it to be powered by a tarp motor for a dump truck. I added a "clutch" mechanism to the drive, so I could "feather" the cord onto the reel and stop it at any time without turning the motor off. I welded on two extensions of 2 x 3 x 1/8 rectangular tube to the front of the genny slide to mount it on. The tarp motor is powered through a resettable circuit breaker and contactor, and turned it on with a toggle switch on the entrance side of the reel. I bored out a PVC pipe cap to fit over the Twist-Lock end of the 50A cord to keep rain and road debris out of the connections while traveling. I had one of the coaches whose generator had about 3" vertical clearance when retracted, so I built an aluminum angle "fence" around the top of the Onan for extra storage. It has been one of the greatest improvements I've made to the coach!

Yes, the old alternator will work. You still have to connect the voltage sensing wire from the alternator to the positive post of one of the battery banks. I don't think it would matter which battery bank you connected to, since both with be receiving a charging voltage. For that matter, since the voltage-sensing feature was only to counter the 0.7 VDC drop across the SSI, I suppose you could simply connect it to the alternator's output post. I've never done that, so I can't say from experience that it would work...just don't see any reason why not. As for which wires to hook where, the directions that come with the ML-ACR are simple and clear. Sorry, I'm not good at annotating pictures. Basically, you take the center cable from your SSI (the alternator output) and combine it with the cable (from the SSI) going to your chassis batteries on ONE of the large posts of ML-ACR, and connect the other cable from the SSI (from house batteries) to the OTHER large post of the ML-ACR. It's easy and the instructions are clear. You can probably view the instructions on the Blue Sea site.

Martin, 1) It's not super-easy to identify a DUVAC from a non-DUVAC alternator from the pulley side of the alternator. It requires access to the REAR of your alternator. Conventional, modern alternators MAY have only ONE or TWO terminals--a B+ (battery) terminal from which the alternator charges ALL connected loads, and (possibly) another terminal that is ignition-key-activated. For "self-excited" alternators (most modern types), there may be only ONE terminal--the heavy cable going to the positive post of whatever battery it is charging. (NOTE that there may be other terminals, such as a tachometer output, but these do not affect the alternator's ability to charge batteries.) Ignition-key-activated terminals are GENERALLY for setups that are NOT self-energizing. If you have a SSI (Solid State Isolator), you almost certainly have some sort of DUVAC alternator, as it MUST sense voltage AT THE BATTERY POSITIVE terminal, and NOT at its output terminal. The SSI is commonly a large (4" x 12") BLUE (never seen another color, although surely there could be others) device with (3) VERY HEAVY battery cables attached and heat-dissipating fins. 2) I cannot answer whether the DUVAC alternators were only present on the DP coaches. They could have been built either with, or without. For any coach 20 years old or so having two battery banks (House and Chassis), there MUST have been some method to prevent having your House loads drain your Chassis batteries. For Workhorse chassis models, there may have been only one battery bank...I'm guessing. In that case, there would be no need for a DUVAC alternator. Again, the SSI was only necessary to isolate chassis (engine starting) batteries from House batteries (powering lights, fans, AC controllers, furnace controllers, water heater controllers (switching between AC power and propane) which powered all your 12VDC loads. 3) Perhaps someone else can chime in who knows the answer to when Monaco stopped using SSI's. I'm GUESSING (do not KNOW) that it would have been about 2003 - 2004. Bob Nodine owns a coach of that vintage. Perhaps he will answer. To try to explain why the troublesome DUVAC system ever existed--at the time they were used (20+ years ago), the SSI was seen as "state of the art" in charging systems that charged multiple battery banks. At that time, separating battery banks (when no charging voltage was present) MUST be accomplished by SOME method. Again, at the time, SSI's were seen as simple, rugged devices that accomplished their function without moving parts, complex circuitry or USER INTERVENTION. BUT, there was a voltage-drop across the SSI of about 0.7VDC. Although that seems quite small, it is very significant in whether your batteries ever reach fully charged condition in a reasonable time. Our dear departed friend, Bill Groves, was very aware of that, and often spoke about how to remedy the situation. Chuck B, who was in charge of HUGE battery banks for the phone system, would probably tell you the same thing--just tenths of a volt divide rapid, full charging from batteries that are chronically under-charged. Again, I apologize for a lengthy post, but the details of fully and efficiently charging a large battery bank are often misunderstood. Settings on the charge controller of either Trace, Xantrex or Magnum are almost universally left at the factory default settings, and that short-changes their capabilities significantly. Once again, apologies for such a long post. Safe travels...and trouble-free travels. Respectfully, Van

You probably already know about the Li-BIM 225 offered by Precision Circuits, Inc. If not, take a look. It interrupts charging to the lithium batteries on a time-based schedule. Sorry, Jim. I can't remember much about the DUVAC I had that was equipped with an external regulator. But it sounds like the "Excite" terminal of the alternator is connected to an "always-on" source. The "Excite" terminal needs to be energized by an ignition-switched circuit. I am not sure that installing the ML-ARC would fix that. Check the "Excite" terminal on the alternator to see if it is energized even when the engine is not running.

I apologize for the length of this post. I'm just trying to save some folks from a really frustrating and expensive on-the-road repair. As another poster mentioned, this is one of the “Top Ten” issues discussed on this forum. Since Monaco stopped using the Solid State Isolator years ago and the number of coaches equipped with them dwindles, the number of techs who understand how to properly replace and connect one of these DUVAC alternators dwindles, also. A DUVAC alternator is one with an external voltage sensing input, which MUST be connected correctly for the alternator to function correctly, and is required if you have a Solid State Isolator (SSI). Incorrectly connecting the DUVAC terminal invariably results in a newly installed alternator soon failing. It fails from being overloaded, putting out a higher voltage than necessary, and therefore amperage near or higher than its rated output. Although it would seem intuitive that alternators be equipped with a regulator that limits current output and therefore protects the alternator from heat-induced damage, I’ve not run across one of these in my lifetime. Since the DUVAC alternator is required ONLY because of the Solid State Isolator (SSI), if you eliminate the SSI, you can replace the DUVAC alternator with a more common non-DUVAC type. A popular replacement is the Delco 28si, available almost anywhere, and at a much lower price. I humbly suggest that those of you who have a Solid State Isolator, and therefore a DUVAC alternator, consider that, unless you are very fortunate, your aging (near 20 years or more) coach will have an alternator failure sooner or later. And if you must get a DUVAC alternator replaced while on the road, your chances of 1) having the issue diagnosed accurately, 2) finding an EXACT replacement and 3) getting it properly installed, are near zero. Witness the MANY stories of woe surrounding this scenario. It has been established in numerous posts that these replace-on-the-road scenarios can lead to HUGE unnecessary expenses in solving a simple issue. So, it behooves you to prepare for this situation in advance. IMHO, the simplest available, truly dependable, and easily understood solution is to replace your SSI with the Blue Sea ML-ACR component at your leisure BEFORE you hit the road. You will also at this time be eliminating your “Lambert” chassis battery charger, and your “Big Boy”—two less items to fail. You need NOT replace your alternator at this time, if it is functioning properly. The ML-ACR acronym stands for “Magnetically Latched Automatic Charging Relay”. It comes with the following warranty, “We stand behind this product for as long as you own it.” It is available on Amazon for approximately $175— AmazonSmile : Blue Sea Systems ML-ACR 12V DC 500A Automatic Charging Relay with Manual Control, Beige : Boating Battery Switches : Sports & Outdoors In the acronym “ML” means “magnetically latched”. This means it requires only a momentary signal to switch it from COMBINING both battery banks for charging, to DISCONNECTING them from one another to preserve chassis battery charge. Unlike a “Big Boy”, which even at reduced voltage becomes too hot to hold your hand on, the ML-ACR stays cool. In the acronym, “ACR” means “automatic charging relay”. This means it will AUTOMATICALLY choose when to COMBINE both battery banks…and when to DISCONNECT them from one another. It chooses to COMBINE both battery banks when a charging voltage above approximately 13VDC is available from ANY source, whether it be the Inverter-Charger, engine alternator, or any outside source. It chooses to DISCONNECT them (isolate them from one another) when no such charging voltage exists, as when the engine is off and you are not connected to a pedestal. If you install the remote switch in place of your existing “BOOST” switch, you can REMOTELY force it into either state. You might choose to DISCONNECT the battery banks if you are rolling with your genny running. In that case, you MIGHT get an “Alternator-Fail” light, due to having both the engine alternator and the inverter-charger both charging the batteries at one time, if you do not DISCONNECT the battery banks from one another. You might choose to CONNECT the two battery banks if you need the BOOST function. But even if you do not install the remote switch, all the functionality of the ML-ACR remains by physically accessing the device and manually rotating the top knob—you can disengage it (in either CONNECTED or DISCONNECTED mode), you can switch it to permanent CONNECT mode, or permanent DISCONNECT mode. The ML-ACR also has other functionality, as described in its installation manual. You can cause it to automatically choose either CONNECT or DISCONNECT based on other criteria, for instance when there are multiple charging sources, or while the engine starter is operating. These functions require additional wiring. The ML-ACR can also replace a BIRD or IRD system that is often difficult to troubleshoot, and might require a long wait for parts, even if the diagnosis is sure. I apologize for the length of this post, but my intent is to save folks from a really disappointing and expensive problem on the road. Be prepared for it, because it will almost surely happen, and Murphy’s Law insures it will happen when you are far from home and at the mercy of techs who almost surely will NOT understand the DUVAC system. I’ll include two photos of my system, both before and after on a 2000 Dynasty (nearly 200K miles), and also the battery box modifications allowing me (8) 6V batteries and (2) Group 31 chassis batteries. Note that I replaced both my Master Disconnect switches with heavy-duty Blue Sea items. That is NOT necessary for an ML-ACR installation, but the switches are of the same quality as all Blue Sea products.

Woody, my results with adding a WeBoost external antenna (only about 9" tall with protruding "spikes") and the WeBoost amplifier cradle in which to rest my existing Verizon MiFi: Performance was noticeably improved over simply placing the MiFi in one of the coach's windows. But the Poynting MIMO antenna feeding an expensive Cradlepoint (BR9000?) router showed no improvement over the MiFi setup. I even connected the Cradlepoint to my laptop with an Ethernet cable, eliminating any WiFi losses--still no improvement. I am baffled by this disappointing result, since someone who appeared very knowledgeable on iRV2 showcased this type installation and got impressive results. Sorry, but I'm not a cell-phone nor WiFi guru, and I cannot give you an explanation for why this setup could not outperform a much less expensive setup. If you are happy with your setup, don't change it. I was trying simply to get a better Internet connection, allowing me to work remotely. I was unsuccessful.

Bought mine in April 2013, from two SAINTS...Bob and Sue Hought. Spent a lot of time on pre-emptive maintenance, then doubled down in 2016 just before five of us coaches left for AK. It was the trip of a lifetime. I came to faith on that trip, largely thanks to Tom and Paula Moore, Bob and Pam Nodine, and Craig and Angie French. And made friends to last a lifetime. I've been aggravated many times with what I see as poor engineering and quality control in my coach, but it has repaid me 100X over in life experiences that I treasure. I'm soon to be 72, and don't see the day I "hang up the keys" just yet, but I know it's coming. Thanks to Dave Pratt and Sandy, Scottie and Deb, Paul Whittle and Barb, and so many others who have made my "motor home journey" the high point of my life. I'm not the greatest tech that ever graced this forum, but I've always felt a desire to help others solve problems and hope that they get from their experiences what I got from mine. God bless you all!

Yeah, the "daisy-chaining" can definitely be confusing. My problem with my vanity outlet has nothing to do with your problem. I just think it was a poor choice to use push-in connections in an application where there is constant vibration and movement. It's not a big deal to change them ALL out, and that's probably what I should have already done, instead of only replacing them one by one. Glad your trip went "relatively" OK. There is almost no such thing as a trip with "no issues", although I busted my arse to be sure I would not have issues on the Alaska trip...and it paid off. The oldest coach in that caravan in 2016 was the ONLY one that had NO issues. We do what we can... Bless you, my Brother.

You probably have your FASS pump energized indirectly by the ignition switch, so there is no EASY way to disable it while running. If you could disable it at idling (when it is not needed) that might satisfy your curiosity. If you ever figure it out, please let us know.

I tend to agree with Richard on this one. 58 seconds is hardly long enough for the coolant temp to rise much at all. I know this is totally unrelated, but I have had similar problems with my 7500 generator--running a very short time and then shutting off. In my case, it could always be cured by holding down the Start/Stop switch in the Stop position repeatedly for 30-60 seconds. During that time, you can hear the fuel primer pump running. That procedure is in the manual for the Onan. It would normally apply only if you had changed fuel filters or done something to disconnect the fuel inlet plumbing. But in my case, I've had to do this multiple times over the years when the genny knocked off. Don't recall the error codes the first time it happened. Now, I just know what to do to get it going again. HTH. Good luck! Let us know how it turns out.

Jim, I also have always thought that the "push-in" outlets (regular and GFI) had no place in a motor home that is constantly bumping down the road. They seem to work OK in residential applications. But every time I've had to pull an outlet, I replaced it with one that had screw terminals available. Only had one problem ever, and that was the vanity outlet gave up the ghost when a hair dryer (high amperage) was plugged in and overloaded an already poor push-in connection. Charred the outlet, but no fire.