vanwill52

That is one of my pipe supports. Made from a 5/8 galvanized ground rod, a huge framing spike, a piece of aluminum, and a purchased knob with threaded end. There are probably other ways to do that without machining, and the rigid PVC doesn't need many supports. Although the pix don't show it, the large radiator hose can be slid up far enough onto the dump valve connection that the hose exits in contact with the bottom of the coach, allowing maximum fall to the CG sewer connection.

Oops! Forgot to attach pix. I don't have any pix of the system installed at a campground. You can see it at the Gathering. Last pix is of a "stretcher" I made when installed a new dump valve assembly. If removing your dump valve does not cause the gray and black pipes to spring apart, it can be very difficult to get the new valve installed without disturbing the face seals. This simple homemade device will spread them apart enough for you to insert the valve without disturbing the seals, insert the bolts to keep everything aligned, then relax the clamp to let it come together again.

I have been using a combination of a PVC pipe and a very short “stinky slinky” for almost eight years. I did so partially because I always disliked trying to get the interior of a corrugated hose clean enough that it did not stink in storage. But my main reason for the PVC setup was that I’ve encountered innumerable campgrounds where there is minimal fall from the RV to the dump fitting. Trying to get a stinky slinky to drain adequately with only an inch or so of fall leaves lots of “solids” in the corrugated hose. I’ve had to “milk” it repeatedly to get it even minimally clean. With a long piece of smooth-bore PVC pipe it is easy to clean even when there is minimal fall. And once removed, you can see through it and wash it until it is fully clean using minimal water. Luckily, my old 2000 Dynasty was one of the last coaches with a full-width propane tank, and an access hatch at each end. Once I moved the tank from the center of the bay forward to near the front bulkhead, I had copious room for a selection of 3” PVC pipes of different lengths, as well as storage for dump fittings and my collapsible ladder. I carry 94”, 63” 48”, 36” and 24” long pieces. These are the double-wall PVC pipes common in home warehouse stores, NOT the thin, single-wall tubes. They have approximately a 3” ID and 3.5” OD. Even if you have only a half-width propane tank (and less storage capacity), you can couple as many short pieces as necessary to meet your needs. On the double-dump fitting of the coach itself, I use a clear Camco 45* coupler. Glue a short piece of 3” double-wall PVC pipe using E-6000 glue to the Camco fitting (the PVC slips right over the Camco fitting). When your combination dump valve (black & gray) is in good condition, you can easily rotate it to any angle you desire. I rotate the dump valve assembly until it points to the center of the dump port in the wet bay. Using the Camco fitting with the glued-on piece of PVC, I slip onto the Gates # 21892 radiator hose with thumb-screw hose clamps. I spray the insides of all the elastomeric couplings and the Gates hose with silicone lube every four or five trips, and the PVC slides easily into the Gates radiator hose. I can slide the Gates hose as high as necessary depending on how much fall there is to the dump fitting at the campground. When more than one section of PVC pipe is required, I use silicone rubber turbo “single hump” connectors to join the sections of PVC pipe. The connectors are quite flexible and make getting the right path to the campground dump fitting quite easy. I replaced the Nylok nuts on each connector with “handwheel-type” no-tool fasteners. I support the PVC with homemade supports made from galvanized ground rod and a shop-made support that attaches to the galvanized ground rod. This support might be a challenge for someone without machine shop skills, but I’m sure there are alternatives. Using those supports, and the rigidity of the PVC pipe, I have been able to accommodate even the most ridiculously high CG dump ports. At the connection to the CG dump pipe, I use a short (24”) stinky slinky to make the final connection. Although the entire system might seem excessive to some, I have LOVED it from the very first trip. I have not replaced a stinky slinky since the first day. AmazonSmile: LTI Universal (89mm) 3.5" ID Straight Hump Coupler Silicone Hose 4-Ply Reinforced 102mm Length With T Bolt Clamp 304 Stainless Steel (3.5" Blue) : Automotive This connects your various lengths of PVC pipe together when you need more than one piece of PVC. AmazonSmile: Camco Clear 45 Degree Sewer Hose Adapter Fitting - See Through Adapter Allows You to See When Your RV Sewer Hose is Clean |Break Resistant and Easy to Install - (39432) : Automotive This connects your dump fitting to the I.D. of the Gates hose.

This does not answer all your questions but consider "ordinance" battery terminals. They have TWO bolts. One clamps the terminal to the battery, and there is another 3/8-16 bolt that provides ample space for multiple 3/8 ring terminals, all getting a good connection. It is the only kind I've used for years Ordinance Bolt Type Lead Battery Terminals (delcity.net) Also, to power the FASS and several other items in the engine compartment, I added a continuous duty contactor with power coming from an AWG 2 lug in the rear run bay and continuing to a Blue Sea 8-space fuse block with "blown fuse" indicators. I used that fuse block to power my EGT gage, externally mounted trans cooler fan, FASS pump and several other items. I powered the contactor's coil from an "ignition on" signal I found in the RRB. Since I was not sure how many places that "ignition on" signal connected to, I installed a "kickback" diode across the contactor's coil terminals. 2000 Dynasty 36

Jim, your answers often carry something of a disclaimer like "I'm not really an expert on this", but please remember that TRUE " RV experts" are as rare as four-door Corvettes. We are a community helping one another, with no axe to grind and no personal agenda. When one wants to speak to a true "expert", we have Dave Pratt, Chris Throgmartin, Craig French, Myron Truex, Frank McElroy, Tom Cherry, Bob Nodine, Bill Groves (RIP), Paul Whittle, Ernie Eckburg, Rick (waterskier), Z-Mike from iRV2, Chuck B, David 427, and countless others (forgive me if I missed your name). In the MH world, I think the definition of expert is different from that in the normal business world. In the normal business world, an "expert" is someone who is engaged in earning a living at the operation in question. A "professional" photographer is someone who earns a living taking photographs. There might be "amateurs" who take even more artistically exquisite photos but do it only as a hobby. Who is actually more "professional"? An "expert" at Cummins repair might work as a computer programmer but knows his stuff when you are diagnosing an ECM problem. Hence, Chris Throgmartin is the unquestioned "King" of toppers, awnings and slide repairs. Ernie Eckberg is the unquestioned "King" of engineered wood flooring. Those folks have "earned their stripes" and are the "go to" folks in their area of expertise. they are not going to tell you what they THINK will work...they tell you what their personal EXPERIENCE has taught them. And my good friend Paul Whittle (aka "shitter Whittle" or "pooper Paul" is the savior of all those orphaned by Dometic with their out-of-date electronic poopers. And not to diminish the value of those "experts" in any way, but many talented coach owners become "experts" on their own. An expert is not necessarily someone who has a business and is engaged in selling their expertise at a justifiably high hourly rate. Sometimes, someone becomes an expert without ever intentionally doing so...and without any intention of selling their knowledge...they just become "experts" at the things they do. You, Jim, are among that small, elite group that has quietly, humbly demonstrated your expertise and has been willing to share your expertise AT NO COST to other members. That is the principle upon which Bill D founded this forum. After reading hundreds of "Internet regurgitations", Bill D (grumpily) said (paraphrased) "If you ain't done it yourself, don't tell us what you read on the Internet. We can ALL read for ourselves." Thanks, Jim, for you detailed and documented modifications. And thank all of you who contribute your PERSONAL experiences in doing ANYTHING. YOU are why Bill D created this forum. I benefit from your experience over and over. Thank you! Merry Christmas. Jesus is the reason... Van

Evo, (you aren't actually still riding one, are you? I'm still on a 2007 Ultra...that will lift the front wheel in 1st and 2nd -- 105 ci, CNC ported heads, Huge air filter, SuperTrapp, Thundermax, Baker 7-speed and different front and rear sprockets.) Because of the PPV (Pressure Prevention Valves), your braking system will not lose air pressure AS LONG AS THE PPV VALVES ARE NOT LEAKING. It will stop losing air pressure (to the suspension system) at about 60 PSI, stop supplying the air bags, and save the air pressure for your braking system. So, you have two "almost" separate systems where air can be lost. If your RHV (ride height valves) leak, but your PPV valves function properly, your coach will settle onto its stops, but your pressure gages will indicate you still have 60 PSI (approx) to operate your brakes. IF your PPV valves leak, but your ride height valves are air-tight, you will lose all tank pressure, but your ride height will remain at traveling height. Does that make sense to you? I'm trying to explain as best I can, after spending many, many hours anally chasing small leaks.

There are DEFINITELY swivel fittings. Keep looking. They mitigate the requirement to keep the lines exiting the fittings straight, but they do make it easier. I used several swivel fittings in my "quest".

Jim, although we have never met in person, I have come to know that you are a methodical, meticulous man. (Those solid sassafrass doors you made for your house are spectacular!) You don't criticize others, or offer advice on subjects with which you have no PERSONAL experience. THAT is the ideal that Bill D wanted his website to be built on, and I'm sure the "crusty ol' buzzard" is looking down favorably on you. I repeat that these PTC fittings are entirely reliable, BUT Monaco often failed to observe the manufacturer's admonition that the nylon tubing exiting the fittings must have at least enough "slack" to allow the tubing to exit STRAIGHT from the fitting. And the tubing must be cut off very cleanly and squarely (razor blade works well). There are some tubing-cutting devices offered online that are much like battery cable cutters, that leave a bad burr on the cut tubing. If you do not follow these common-sense guidelines, over time, the connection will leak. Even if you must use "butt connectors" to add in some extra nylon line, that is a good choice. I always try to find something "sturdy and stationary" to fasten those nylon tubes to with a zip-tie, so that the wind underneath the coach is not "whipping" them around AT THE FITTING. Sometimes, I have to weld or bolt in that extra support. Yes, I went "anal" looking for leaks. Not sure it was worth it, once I got past being able to park overnight and not get below 90 PSI, but I did. I suspect you will do the same. You can unquestionably reach that goal of nearly zero leakage overnight. It just depends on whether you think it's worth the effort. Good luck, my Brother!

Search on iRV2. Not having a metal flange applied over the polycarbonate or acrylic lenses is almost a sure prescription for future failure...EVEM with new plastic. The plastic simply DOES NOT have the strength to distribute the force of each individual screw without distorting the plastic and failing to provide a secure, long-lasting seal. If you want to do it only ONCE, reinforce the uppermost layer with metal so that the clamping force is evenly distributed over both the clear sections and whatever sealant you use. Beware, as another poster advised, Dicor Self-leveling sealant will result in micro-cracks (leaks) in only a couple of years, IFF it touches the clear plastic. Use only sealant rated for contact with polycarbonate (Lexan) or acrylic where it touches the clear plastic. It ain't rocket science, but the clear plastic is not able to provide the strength necessary by itself, without some sort of reinforcement...witness the multiple failures reported on this forum and others.

Bart, from my personal experience of many, many hours trying to solve my air leakage problems on my "vintage" 2000 Dynasty, I will offer the following OPINION. The PTC (push-to-connect) fittings have been used (are still used?) on hundreds of commercial vehicles. If there was ever an industry-wide recall, I am not aware of it. In the vast majority of cases in which they are INSTALLED PROPERLY, they give good service for decades. There is, however, one easy-to-make mistake in installation--not having enough of the nylon tubing extending STRAIGHT out of the fitting. Proper sealing of the fitting requires that the tubing exits STRAIGHT from the fitting for at least a few inches (longer is better). On my coach, perhaps the most unlikely leak came from my treadle valve (air brake "master cylinder"). It was not (IMO) the treadle valve itself that was leaking, but I had determined conclusively the treadle valve was the GENERAL location of a serious leak--so much so that on an extremely quiet day I could HEAR the leak. Since even servicing the fittings to the treadle valve required an unusually small person who was also a contortionist, this was one of the few jobs I ever let my trusted heavy-truck shop do for me...and I had them replace not only ALL the treadle valve fittings, but also the treadle valve itself. I asked the talented contortionist to look closely for one thing--ANY lines exiting the treadle valve that did not exit with PLENTY of extra "slack", such that they were not being pulled to one side of the fitting as they exited. I provided him with multiple replacement fittings of every conceivable type, couplers, and properly colored tubing. I told him that if he found ANY tubing which did not exit in a gentle, generous arc, to either replace the tubing or add a couple of inches and lengthen it. Luckily, that made his job much easier. He later reported to me that ALL the tubing connected to the treadle valve seemed to have been cut too short and was leaving the fittings at an immediate angle. By the time I had (at last) resorted to using someone to help me with this, I had replaced all three ride-height valves, ALL PPV (pressure protection valves), the parking brake valve, and a couple of PTC fittings. I still had a leak that would drain my tanks down to 30 PSI overnight and settle my coach on its stops in three days. The treadle valve "fix" changed it all to the point that I can now leave the coach parked in my shed (at my house) for weeks at a time before the instrument panel gage reads less than 60 PSI. Bart, as I look at the pix you provided, I would predict that the yellow line in the far-right of your pix will be the next to cause a leak problem. The PTC fittings are reliable...but the lines connected to them MUST not be at an angle or in a bind. If they are, one or more of them will INEVETIBLY be the source of a leak. If you are truly (anally?) committed to eliminating ALL leaks (as I was), you will replace many fittings/hoses/devices that do NOT appear to be a problem. IMHO, once your coach can maintain 60 PSI overnight, and your suspension bags have not lowered your coach to its stops, your air system is OK. Whether you expend the dollars and hours to make it 99% versus 90% is up to you. Bless you in either path you choose.

Tempest in a tea cup...or perhaps even an imaginary, undocumented tempest in an undefined, theoretical tea cup. There is no end to discussions like these...NONE...EVER. They can go on endlessly until someone becomes nasty and moderators have to shut down the whole subject. Even the very youngest among us will never see the end of fossil fuels. Might I humbly suggest we save our energy and stick to helping one another solve our real-world coach problems? We are a community founded on the idea of helping one another, not arguing theoretical questions.

No. Stop the H-frame from squirming under the coach and wandering is cured.

That 2" square tube procedure was to demonstrate how "loose" the suspension is. It is a very extreme procedure that will jostle things in the coach. If your coach ever experienced on the road what I caused with that 2" square tubing, you could not hold in in three lanes and it would be rocking violently side-to-side. Again, the amount of H-frame twist required to cause incessant wandering is extremely small, and doesn't cause the coach to rock side-to-side.

David is correct. The air bags have NOTHING to do with the wandering. It would wander just the same with coil springs. And as once noted by Bob Nodine (with supporting trigonometry calculations) the "twist" of the H-frame is so small as to be difficult to measure. I doubt you will be able to see it with a mounted camera.

You need an "antique" DUVAC alternator for one and ONLY one reason--your system uses a Solid State Isolator (SSI). That is the large, blue finned device in your charging system's Rear Run Bay (RRB) with three heavy cables running to it. In its day, 20 years ago, the SSI was state-of-the-art. It will INVARIABLY fail someday, as will your Lambert Charger (the one that charges your chassis (engine) batteries when you are connected to a pedestal. Now, DUVAC is outmoded technology, and available at fewer and fewer sources. If, instead of replacing your failing DUVAC alternator, you have it rebuilt, you MAY get many more years of service from it, assuming your SSI, your Battery Boost contactor ("Big Boy") and your Lambert Charger (Green finned) device work as they should. But if you replace your SSI, your Battery Boost contactor, and your Lambert Charger device with a modern solution like the Blue Sea ML-ACR, BOTH your battery banks will be charged ANY time a charging voltage is present, AND your alternator can be a garden-variety type available at any auto parts store--the Delco 28si being a popular example (at a fraction of the price of a genuine Leece-Neville DUVAC alternator). And your ML-ACR will accomplish the function of your present "Battery Boost" switch. There simply is no good reason to continue trying to accommodate the limitations of the DUVAC system, UNLESS you are broken down in BFE with no alternatives. In that case, INSIST THAT YOUR EXISTING ALTERNATOR BE REBUILT, instead of being replace with a "equivalent". Just realize that your DUVAC system (or one of its components) will eventually (SURELY) fail, and you will find yourself at the mercy of well-meaning technicians who do not have a clue how to replace a 20-year old DUVAC alternator by any means other than rebuilding your EXISTING alternator or replacing it with an EXACT part number replacement. When they tell you, "We have another alternator that will replace this one exactly at much less expense"...you are only days away from even more trouble. IFF you have your EXISTING alternator rebuilt, and IFF it was indeed your core problem (and NOT your SSI or Lambert Charger) you will be OK. If your alternator is replaced with an "identical replacement" and the tech does not understand how to properly connect the voltage-sensing wire from the previous DUVAC alternator, you are screwed, and will realize it as soon as you are a few hundred miles from the shop that "fixed" your problem. I could write a long treatise of how and why to make the change to a Blue Sea ML-ACR, but there are now dozens of threads on this forum and on iRV2 about how and why to do this. Search them. Good luck in your upgrade! Let us all know how your situation turns out, as there are dozens of very capable folks here to help you with your problem.

The Splendide that my 1993 Dynasty came equipped with, and the original Splendide that came in my 2000 Dynasty, and the new Splendide 2100XC that I just installed in the 2000 Dynasty all came with 22mm x 1.5(?) metric threads. I have never found an adapter to change to the 3/4 GH threads common on American-made washers. I wanted to buy stainless steel braided hoses for the new installation, but never was able to find any. Westland, the sole importer of these machines offers nothing but rubber hoses.

Yes, David, they fit all years. You can anticipate some rusting inside most, if not all, the bores of the trailing arms. You will need an expanding sleeve sanding drum to clean up the bores. Also, in the cases I've worked on, the O.D. of the ATRO bushing is too much of a press fit in the bore of the trailing arm, and there is some danger of collapsing the bushing when you press it in. When you have the bushings and are ready to do the job, contact me and I'll give you some more advice and loan you some tools to help with installation. Your greatest problem will likely be getting the rear bolts out. Most of the time, you have to saw through them on either side of the original bushing to get the trailing arm out.

On the only one of the later style that I saw bad, it had become so bad that it was obvious--the Panhard rod was sloppy at one end. For the early two-piece style, they simply need to be replaced with the later version, or better yet, with the ATRO version.

Although I have seen only one of the later-style bushings go bad, the early-style two-piece ones were "worn out" the day they were installed. On your 2002, it is unlikely that you have bad bushings. Bushings in the trailing arms and Panhard rod are exactly the same.

There is the ATRO brand steel-cased hard polyurethane bushing. They do not sell direct, so you have to buy them through a dealer. https://www.atrobushing.com/ProductListFilter?mMfg1ID=75 I have installed several sets of these. They are a HUGE improvement over the older (1999 and previous) two-piece solid polyurethane collared bushings. They are a small improvement over the later version steel-cased bushing. Unless you have the older two-piece solid polyurethane bushing, a Watts link in the front and X-bars in the rear will yield much greater results. If it was possible to install X-bars in the front, they would do a better job than the Watts link.

I don't understand why you are having a problem, but adding a rear Watts link, in addition to your X-braces, is unlikely to make any difference. You would likely get more improvement from moving your front Watts link further from the Panhard bar. If you have any way of doing so, check for looseness in the Panhard rod and trailing arm bushings.

JD, the anti-sway bar will not make any difference in the wandering. It has no ability to stabilize the H-frame, due to the links that connect it to the frame. You may find other reasons for liking it, but it will not help your wandering problem, except between your ears, since you will pay a lot of money for it. Try getting your Watts link lever more vertical. I cannot imagine a reason that would make any difference--just grabbing at straws, because I cannot imagine why you are having the problem. I think the only definitive difference you can make at this point is to move your Watts link further from the Panhard rod. That involves reinforcing your genny supports and cross-bracing them. I'll send pix if I have time. Getting ready to take my wife to a specialist in Atlanta for her Trigeminal Neuralgia.

Those look fine. I've always LOOSELY criss-crossed multiple loops of 3/16 nylon cord around the crossing point of the bars just on the off-chance one ever broke loose.

JD, you said you had rear X-braces. Please take a few pix and post.

The Panhard rod is the single 2" square tube that runs crossways of the frame. One end is connected to the coach frame, the other to the H-frame. The other four 2" square bars running front-to-rear (two on each side) are the trailing arms. They locate the H-frame (and therefore the axle) front-to-rear, but are long and spindly. If there were NO Panhard rod, the H-frame would wallow INCHES side-to-side. The SINGLE Panhard rod stops that extreme movement, but does not stop the H-frame from twisting along a vertical axis with its pivot point being the end connection of the Panhard rod. Bushing wear is only a problem on approximately 1999 and older coaches. There are much stiffer bushings available from ATRO and I have installed several sets. On 1999 and older coaches, they make a very large difference. On coaches with the later design bushings, the difference is minimal. In short, the wandering is from a design defect in the Roadmaster chassis, not from wear. They wandered when brand new. The chassis needed TWO Panhard rods, or ONE with a very long engagement distance at each end--instead of one bushing in each end, it needed two in each end, housed in a tube (I'm guessing) about 6-8" long.