vanwill52

My experience with back-up cameras is that they are almost all "fish-eye" lenses. I am not a truly talented backing expert, but I can do OK if I have a person outside directing me (WITHIN VIEW OF MY MIRRORS!!!!). But one purchase I made I truly love is a rear-view camera with a narrower angle of view, AND the ability to pan left-right, up-down. With a "fish-eye" lens, as you travel down a highway, when you can first recognize a tiny speck in your rear-view camera, it is a car that is already almost on your bumper.

I talked with Frank on the phone a day or two ago, regarding replacing an ISC with an ISL. My comment is NOT germane to that particular subject. But two years ago, I had to replace the ECM of my 2000 Dynasty 36 with ISC-350. The independent shop did have legitimate INSITE software, but my ECM was too far gone for them to extract all the necessary parameters. They used the engine serial number to get the Cummins FACTORY to locate the Cummins DEALER (near Coburg, OR) that had sold the engine to Monaco. In approximately year 2000, it was customary that the dealer selling the engine would pre-load the parameters Monaco asked for, and that Monaco themselves had nothing to do with it. The repair shop I used called that Cummins DEALER in OR and it still had the parameter file saved. They sent my repair shop a copy of it for free. My shop then pre-programmed my soon-to-be-installed "remanufactured" (cleaned, checked, and painted) ECM using their INSITE software. Everything went without a hitch. This seems to be contrary to what I've read here. The very sharp technician at the repair shop told me it was his understanding that the Cummins FACTORY sent complete engines to DEALERS with only basically necessary parameters installed and the DEALER installed the parameters to suit the purchaser. Good luck! Hope your quest turns out as smoothly as mine did. Total bill was about $7500.

Purely my opinion, and it will be short. 1) IF you have a DUVAC alternator fail, and are determined to stick with your original system, have your alternator rebuilt. DO NOT, EVER, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES allow a substitute alternator to be installed. Not one tech in 100 understands DUVAC. 2) IF you have a DUVAC setup, sooner or later either the alternator will fail, or the Solid State Isolator (big blue thing with fins) will fail, or the Lambert Charger will fail...just a matter of time. Unless you understand enough to make the repairs yourself, you will be faced with a HUGE repair bill and your system will probably still NOT WORK. Be proactive and replace the alternator with a garden-variety Delco and install the ML-ACR. The manufacturer (Blue Sea) says on its website and on the literature that comes with the ML-ACR "We stand behind this device for as long as you own it." PERIOD. If your DUVAC alternator is still functioning, STILL install the ML-ACR. The device is cheap enough for you to carry a spare, although I have yet to hear of a failure--hence Blue Sea's "no quibble" guarantee. I switched to ML-ACR, but still have my original DUVAC alternator, simply because it has not failed. When it does, it will be replaced with an easily-sourced Delco for half the price of the DUVAC unit. The ML-ACR renders the Lambert Charger unnecessary. 3) INSTALL THE REMOTE SWITCH FOR THE ML-ACR! 4) IF you have a BIRD or IRD system controlled by electronics and it fails, don't attempt to fix it...bypass it. Install the ML-ACR. It is such a simple, robust device which allows manual control at the device itself, should you foolishly choose not to install the remote switch. Good luck with solving your problems! Myron is a 12VDC wizard. Listen to him. This is not the device I ordered, but very similar. I have found it to be invaluable, especially for smaller (10AWG to 22AWG) stranded wires which are going to be crimped into a buss bar or barrier terminal strip. They prevent the strands from becoming separated. 440 Pieces Wire Ferrules Kits Ferrules Wire Ends Terminals Crimp Terminal Connector Sleeves AWG (2/0 1/0 2 4 10 12 14 16): AmazonSmile: Industrial & Scientific

Fantastic news, Scotty! Deb is a gem.

Engine/ECM serial numbers.

Had to have my ECM replaced a couple of years ago. It was bad enough that it would not allow downloading the parameters file. The independent shop doing the work found out which Cummins dealer sold the engine to Monaco. The tech called them and they sent him a digital copy of the parameters. This included all the Monaco-specific parameters. The Cummins shop had pre-programmed the ECM to suit the exact Monaco it was being installed on. Their were no glitches, and everything worked as before.

Frank, you are an invaluable resource to this group. I hope to meet you someday.

Although I have never had to replace my drag link, I bought a worn-out one from a generous member years ago, just in case I ever needed to replace it. I could see that ONE end of the tie rod end had been "permanently" staked to the drag link by multiple swages. That was intended to make it "permanently oriented", so that the "bow" in the drag link could never be installed incorrectly, and the "bow" would always allow additional reduction in turn radius. Understood. But there are SO MANY ways to accomplish that objective that did not render the drag link junk when the staked tie rod end failed. When the time comes (if ever), I will cut through the stakes and replace the tie rod end with a garden-variety heavy-truck tie rod item. I have a nicely equipped home machine shop, and I will cut through the stakes to be able to unscrew the (standard) tie rod end, screw in the new item, and choose a method for ensuring it is always oriented correctly..there are numerous methods that do not require something as primitive as "staking" the threaded tie rod in place.

What someone said about "walking away from it" for a time was spot-on. Things can baffle you to the point of utter frustration. But give yourself a break, don't even think about it, and when you come back to the problem, it jumps out at you...uhh, often it's your stupidity at missing something obvious (like a fuse). We all have our moments of great glory...interspersed with a multitude of being baffled by something!! And like Myron, I don't think I'm as sharp as I once was. But I'm exceedingly happy to be gloriously healthy and on the right side of the dirt! Even Sandy's cat likes me...sometimes.

OK, before I "fess up" to my ignorance, let me share some pix with you of devices I used in troubleshooting this problem. First, thanks to Myron Truex for his advice about chasing 12VDC problems, and his INVALUABLE suggestion to make this device to add to my Trouble-Shooting kit. Myron said, that when you are chasing a "ghost" ground or B+ problem, ALWAYS make a 50' long FUSED "jumper cable" to attach directly to your HOUSE (or chassis) BATTERY POST TERMINALS...one that can reach from wherever you are troubleshooting to the coach or chassis battery, AT THE TERMINALS. In my case, I wanted something really flexible, so I used 16AWG "lamp cord" and separated it into single conductors by "zipping" it apart into two separate single conductors. I ma""de two separate "jumpers" that could provide either B+ or ground as required. It was invaluable in my troubleshooting. Next, I made three "jumpers" in three configurations--M to M, M to F, and F to F. On each, I skinned the insulation from the center of the jumper to allow a tinned area that could be used for connections to my BATTERY POST JUMPERS via simple alligator clamps. Next, I made a "dummy load" from an 1157 incandescent lamp with both filaments energized to use to determine whether a B+ supply was "true" (capable of significant power supply" or a "phantom load" that would not supply enough current to light the combined filaments of this incandescent load. Next, to make it easier to determine the voltage state of ANY wire without having to "skin it" to expose enough conductor to get a DVM probe onto, I used a Pomona Electronics "hat pin" device that allows you to penetrate any wire and determine its voltage without having to "skin" the wire. It is similar to the "hatpin trick" many of us have used. Myron, even though I can say this was a combination of errors that fooled me, I still feel like a newbie for having failed to check some of these things. Alas, live and learn. At least I made an assortment of diagnostic tools that might help me next time. My friend's coach still has the F51 fuse (mirror movement) blowing INSTANTLY when inserted, even with the selector switch on the mirror control set in the "neutral" position--in between L and R. The multi-function switch is connected with a pigtail to a large multi-circuit connector. I suggested, as a first step, he remove the switch and see if the fuse still blows. If it does, I'll have to look further. As far as the awning mechanism goes, I suspect over time the entire mechanism needs cleaning and lubricating to keep the current reasonable. Another lesson learned about wiring size--I have mounted dozens of stick-on strip lights and door switches to provide inside-cabinet lighting, and used some handy 20AWG twinned red/black wire. Never had a problem. For this same friend, I mounted "Boogey Lights" under his awning. The connection between the source and the Boogey Light controller was less than 10'. But they continued to dim after a few minutes. Replaced the feed wires with 14AWG (overkill) and light function was restored. Again, live and learn. Thanks EVERYONE for all the help. Just wish I had not been such a dumbass!

2011 Monaco Camelot 43. Navistar coach with Cummins ISL-425 Plug in the 10A Fuse F51 in FRB and it immediately blows--dead short. Happens even when selector switch is in center position (neither mirror selected). Anyone ever have this happen? I removed the switch, but nothing obvious there. I'm guessing it will be in the wiring going to the mirror bases.

Many thanks to all who offered their assistance as I chased electrical problems on my friend Tom Moore’s 2011 43’ Camelot. It is a Navistar coach, but powered by a Cummins ISL-425. Special thanks to Myron Truex and Tom Cherry. My initial problem was that there was no power to the passenger armrest—she could not operate the step cover, front shade, front passenger awning, lights, or ANYTHING with a switch located in that armrest. The cigarette lighter receptacle I had installed for Paula to charge her electronic devices was also dead. Simple, right? Just a fuse, right? I checked EVERY fuse on that coach from one end to the other—all good. Then did it AGAIN the next day as I was grabbing at straws. Using a longtime tip from Myron, I made up two 50’ 16AWG cords with huge alligator clips and a fuse on one end to attach directly to the batteries, so I could input ground or B+ where I needed it. When I input 12VDC where it should have been coming in the armrest, Voila! I could operate the awning! Alas, it only operated ONE in-out cycle and would not move again. To spare you all the details, the two days of troubleshooting boiled down to only two simple things—TWO fuses, one in the coach and one in my 50’ jumper leads. The ORIGINAL problem was that the fuse (F8, I think—10A) in the DC distribution panel beside the Intellitec modules had been blown by the motor load from the front over-door awning some weeks before. Had I checked that fuse? Yes…twice. But how did I check it? I pulled it out and looked at it as I’ve done for many years. You guessed it—It was blown in a corner and I missed it. So when I applied my “jumper” lead from the battery to the armrest, the front awning went in and out ONCE. WHY? Because the fuse in my jumper lead was also 10A, and operating the awning blew it also. Bottom line is that the front door awning cannot be powered by a 10A fuse. I replaced the F8 fuse with a 15A and it has worked fine since, and all power is restored to the armrest. I have not looked up the rating of the awning motor, but suspect that most any motor capable of operating the awning would draw about 10A or more. What an ordeal this has been over simply fuses!! I learned two things. 1) I’m replacing the fuses in my “jumper cables” with 20A. 2) I won’t be checking fuses just visually any longer. I’m making a very small battery-powered box with fuse holders and an LED—plug in the fuse, and if it’s good, the LED will light. I did end up making some devices that I think will help in future troubleshooting and used a couple of Pomona Electronics wire connection tools. The Pomona "Hat Pin" connector has been for many years one of the handiest electrical troubleshooting tools I've ever owned. It pierces a wire so you can measure voltage, resistance, or inject power. Again, many thanks to all of you! Van

Update: This keeps getting more and more weird. When "hot-wired" door awning went in and out ONCE, using the normal control switch. With the exact same "hot wire" connection, it would not go in or out again. Inside the passenger armrest, one would expect to find B+ on a heavy (probably red or black) wire. There are TWO separate red w/white stripe wires entering the armrest. One leads to an unused connector just hanging loose in the space. The other red w/white strip wire powers (among other things) the door awning. Neither of those main red/white wires is hot. Now, out of the blue, power mirrors have ceased working, both sides. Sheesh! What a gremlin. It appears several parts of the coach have lost either GROUND or B+...or BOTH. I'm grabbing at straws. Clueless. On the FRB board, bottom right, just above where the heavy 2/0 black cable attaches to the board, is a small grey connector with only six pins. Only three are connected with what looks like 10AWG wires that are almost hot to the touch. I can think of nothing that would draw heavy 12VDC except a resistance-heating device like mirror heaters, which are off. Mirror heaters will only come on if ignition is on. These three black wires are warm to the touch all the time. All these things don't appear to relate to one another. I just throw them out because I'm out of ideas. I'm making up two 40' 16AWG "extension cords" to run straight from the (new AGM) house batteries and be Pos and Neg "jumpers" for troubleshooting. Wish me luck. Pray for me.

Me, too! Always read Jim's posts. To clarify about my request on the ride height valves and PPV's, I was not asking for ride height adjustment instructions. I only wanted PART NUMBERS if anyone knew what they were. But I'm so bogged down in a weird electrical issue on that coach, I'll never get around to installing the ride height and PPV before my friend leaves. I'm just hoping to figure out the electrical problem before he has to leave. I'll describe that in another post.

Me, too! Always read Jim's posts.

Thanks, Myron. You are indeed our "12VDC guru".

I think that by now, almost everyone has realized what "RV Quality" means, when describing a product. It often means, "the most poorly conceived, poorly engineered, lowest quality". This forum and its innovative "out of the box" thinkers keep our old beasts rolling. I just tripped over 200K on my 2000 Dynasty, and I would not hesitate to take it to CA (stopping just short of the state line, so I don't get "infected" with weird ideas). Of course, I've repaired/replaced virtually every system PROACTIVELY with updated, quality components when possible. My WH is next...22 years old and doing great, but a ticking time bomb. Thanks for all the help I've gotten from so many of you!

Ray and Scotty--yes, some sort of Magic creeper would be nice. I have one. It just doesn't compensate for the fact that a coach without hydraulic jacks can only go so high...not near high enough for this 73 yo man to wiggle around. But one does his best for his friends. I finally told Paul Moore, "I'm sure I can install all new ride height valves and PPV's while you are here...but I'm willing to give you cash to take it to Barry at Josam's." LOL Some things are so simple...but as I anticipate double shoulder replacements, I look for the things I can do that do not tax my aging body. I can still run. I can still do one-arm push-ups...just nearly as easily as I did a decade ago. Ray and Scotty, you, along with Tom Cherry, Ivan, and a host of others, help keep this forum relevant, and a tribute to my good friend Bill D!

Thanks, Scotty. But what I really want it part numbers for the ride height valves and PPV's. I guess I'll have to crawl under the coach...as the years roll on, this procedure is becoming less and less attractive! 😁 Thanks for taking time to respond.

Myron, I will try that...as a last resort. Cross-conduction of signals with "fox and hound" devices has always been a problem. I've often thought that in the digital age, there MUST have been one made that was digital and could sort out cross-contamination, much like garage door openers do. I think I would buy it, regardless of cost. Do you know of one, that from your vast experience, is much better than others? As always, thanks for your help. I will check for that "Circuit 8". Thanks. But I'll also start yanking on splices. Monaco drawings show much "underfloor" wiring. I assume that is wiring accessed lying on your back in a bay? Thanks, Tom! Thanks, Garry. I don't think this coach has that control box. There is a dedicated switch for the door awning, but the "power + and - are dead leading to the switch. Still looking... Thanks for taking the time to respond.

I see quite a bit of info in the parts list, but little info as to which part number fits which coach. Need ride height and PPV part numbers. 2011 Camelot 43. Air leveling only. Tag axle. Won't be able to crawl under coach until much later today. Need to get parts ordered. Thanks!

Trying to help a friend. No DC power to DOOR awning switch. 12VDC awning. I've checked every fuse and circuit breaker I can find. Any ideas?

I have replaced TWO of the gearbox/motor assemblies in 11 years. Mine uses a Ford Taurus window motor, and is NOT protected against entry of water during a hard rain. I wrapped tape around the vent openings on the last one and have not had a problem since. I ALWAYS carry a spare motor/gearbox. IIRC, it was less than $100.

To me, the most deceptive part of the advertising about the REMCO pump (which I still have), is that it is a "constant pressure--variable flow" pump. To an engineer, that means that as the pump approaches its MAX pressure, the pump motor SLOWS or changes its configuration) vane orientation) to maintain the pressure at ANY flow rate (below its max pressure)...pressure as any "pressure compensated variable-vane AC pump--either single-phase or three-phase" will do. I NEVER saw even the FAINTEST indication that this function worked. It functioned EXACTLY like any other pressure-limited pump--if you opened any faucet at a small delivery rate, it was obvious the pump operated up to its max shutoff point, then STOPPED. It began running again when its low-pressure point was reached. The expectation I had, based on the literature of the manufacturer, was that I might be able to hear the pump slowing down as it approached its max pressure while supplying a very low UNCHANGING flow rate as it approached its cutoff pressure. IT NEVER DID ANYTHING EVEN REMOTELY SIMILAR TO THAT!! It was simply an on-off pump. I tried it with and without an accumulator tank--NO DIFFERENCE. At one recent Gathering, we had a great, young, knowledgeable Lippert rep admit that Lippert had gained a well-deserved reputation for poor quality products and even poorer customer service and was committed to improving their products AND their customer service operation. I felt he was a "lamb sent to the slaughter." Unfortunately, in spite of that earnest young man's proclamations, Lippert remains in the mainstream of RV product manufacturers... an engineer's nightmare. I would be ashamed to work for that company. I could conceive better, rugged designs when I was fresh out of engineering school in 1971. And I had the metalworking/manufacturing background to make them economically viable. I suspect that in my lifetime, the RV industry will continue to be focused on "cheapest to manufacture (likely in China)" without even a passing judgement as to whether this product "will ever distinguish itself in the marketplace as a manufacturer of the highest quality products available." Until that "new awakening" happens, expect that "automotive-quality" RV components will NEVER be available. Yes, I understand the choice most of us must face--quality or price. I face it myself daily, as I'm newly retired (interpretation--"unemployed and no earned income") and must make quality/price decisions daily in every facet of my life. But as Dave Pratt has often admonished me, "You will forget the low price you paid as soon as the component fails far ahead of its expected life." Fantastic Fan had a reputation for AWESOME customer service. It was WELL-DESERVED! They were bought by Dometic. Dometic almost immediately trashed the reputation of Fantastic Fan. Dometic introduced a remote-controlled verson of the great Fantastic Fan. Sounded like a great idea, since my Sandy could not reach the controls on the original Fantastic Fans, which functioned flawlessly. I had made her a custom "extension" that she could use to operate the original fans--it looked like a weird fly swatter. The fans functioned flawlessly. I bought TWO new fans from Dometic, each with a remote-control Sandy could use...I THOUGHT. Guess what? The clueless schmuck company Dometic produced ALL their "Fantastic Fan Copies" with the SAME IDENTICAL infrared remote control frequency and fan control circuitry. So what happens if you operate the remote-control while you are in the toilet? ALL FANS RESPOND!! The IR controls are so sensitive that you CANNOT prevent one remote from operating both fans, no matter how hard you try to "aim" the remote-control. The only way to get ONLY ONE fan to respond to a command is to hold the remote hard against the fan...and, of course, Sandy cannot reach that high...and it totally defeats the idea of "remote control". Just another RV product designed and produced with what appears to be a less-than-double-digit IQ design team. And, of course, Dometic customer service is a joke. Try to get to talk to a tech rep...there AREN'T ANY on this side of the Pacific rim. Do you remember the great hoopla about the "radically redesigned, new technology" Blizzard AC unit? I DO, because I wanted that technologically advanced unit. That ad campaign began almost THREE YEARS ago. When I tried to contact Dometic about the unit, I was told to contact their "highly trained, capable" dealers. Guess what? I never found a SINGLE one who could offer any info on the Blizzard. Most dealers said they had "never heard of it". One dealer said, "Oh, that's only for the European market." NOW, three years later, the Blizzard units are only showing up on websites...at approximately twice the price of all competitors, including Coleman-Mach, the units installed on almost ALL high-end coaches. Another typically poor RV manufacturer. The Blizzard?...it might be an outstanding product (doubtful), but it is marketed by another "Lippert-like" company. Stick with the products used on high-end coaches, unless you are willing to make significant gambles on their longevity.

This is a bit off the central topic of the OP, but… I think Tom Cherry’s idea of carrying a spare male plug is a great one. I have a spare plug—but in my basement machine shop. I’m going to put it in the coach NOW! I ALREADY have a 50A FEMALE receptacle in the coach. I’ve only needed one once, at a HOT summer FMCA event (when I DID NOT have the spare receptacle) where Bill D and Betty were my traveling partners. I got the LAST available spot and the pedestal was wired for 50A, but marked “Bad Socket. Use 30A only”—50 A socket was charred. Bill D and I were both on the same telephone pole with multiple electrical boxes. He backed in first and got the last of only four WORKING 50A connections in that whole HOT unpaved parking lot. I quickly drove to Lowe’s, bought a 50A receptacle, and swapped out the outlet (50A breaker disconnected). I would only use the one I carry if I were in a park with a faulty receptacle and no other spots were available. I also own (courtesy of Richard Smith) a device that was once commercially available but was not available at the time I wanted one. It is a “pedestal checker”. Plug it into your pedestal before connecting. It will tell you the pedestal voltage, whether it is wired correctly, whether it is a “true” 50A connection or one in which both “hot” legs are just “phony” in-phase connections to a single (3-wire) source, instead of the 4-wire required for a true 50A service. As you plug it in, you can also “feel” whether the receptacle is worn out and loose inside, presenting a dangerous high-resistance connection which will heat up (and possibly destroy) your cord. It also tells you if the neutral is correctly connected. Loss of the neutral connection can do untold damage to your entire electrical system. I’m not sure Richard still makes these things, but if not, he MAY be willing to send you instructions on how to make your own. Just a suggestion—when I first bought my coach from Bob Haught (RIP) and Sue, it had a very expensive Marinco 50A supply cord with molded ends. I had found a number of campgrounds where the plug did not insert into the pedestal as securely as I wished. To save my expensive cord from being damaged by a faulty pedestal socket, I bought a 12” 50A male/50A female “dog-bone” to use as a “sacrificial cord”, in the event I plugged into a faulty socket. AmazonSmile: Camco 55215 18" PowerGrip Extender - 50 AMP : Tools & Home Improvement -- $14. If my dog-bone got fried, at least my expensive cord was still OK and I could either fix the problem at the pedestal or move to another site. Unfortunately, that expensive Marinco cord would get an erection at anything below 50*F. CHARLES ATLAS could not coil that beast into anything smaller than a 3-foot diameter, and then it had to be stowed into an already-full single cargo bay. I REALLY envied those guys with auto-retracting cords. After a few experiences in cold weather with coiling that beast, I bought 35’ of SEOW cable and built a powered retracting mechanism mounted in front of my generator. It was a modified, powered version of the Mor-Ryde manual cord reel. Now, I just turn on the truck tarp motor that powers it, feather the clutch, and reel in my (flexible-as-it-gets) cable. But I STILL always use the dog-bone sacrificial cord. BTW, be aware that, when replacing your coach’s cord, NEVER buy anything that has a “T” in the description. For instance, “STW”, no matter the advertising hype, is stiff as a brick in cold weather. My expensive Marinco cord is “STW”. “SOW” or “SOOW” are much more flexible. For ULTIMATE flexibility, the cord should have an “E” in the description, as in “SEOW”. “T” indicates “thermoPLASTIC”. Ever bought a thermoplastic garden hose that promised flexibility in freezing temps?—How did that work for you? “E” (anywhere in the description) indicates “ELASTOMER” and is usually referring to the cover of the cord, where most of the stiffness comes from in cold weather. There is probably an "SEEOW" somewhere, although I've never found one. Paul Whittle recently replaced the original cord in his (2005?) Sig (Glendenning drum—no commutator) with an AWG-equivalent cord of much better flexibility, but smaller diameter, and was able to greatly increase the length of the cord. For someone from the “outback in Australia”, he’s a really smart cookie…not just “strokes”, Paul…although I do need some electronic help… 😁 Tom Cherry—I’m not in a competition with you for the most all-encompassing, detailed posts, but do you think I’m competitive? 😊 When I was a "newbie", I would always look for posts by Tom. They were always detailed, cogent, proofread, included references, and never left you thinking to yourself, "I'm not sure what he meant." You have always been a great asset, Tom. Thanks. Thanks also to Paul Whittle, whose posts are always clear and concise, and he has proven himself to be an electronic Godsend to all the folks who cannot step on a pedal to flush a toilet. 😂