Jim Andrews

I was driving down the road happy go lucky when my MH just stopped on the highway. Pulled over and of course it wouldn't start. Mechanic came and changed the fuel filter and got it started for about 1 1/2 miles then stopped again. No lights prior, on error codes. It's now in the shop and "they" feel pretty good it's the fuel pump. $4k pump alone. I told them I filled it up back in October so the tank was full for the winter. I drove it 2 to 3 times per month for a few miles to keep it lubricated. After 325 miles or so, the engine stopped. I talked to them today and told them about the fuel and they said before they change the pump, they will check the fuel for algae and let me know the results. If there is algae in the fuel, (didn't know that could happen), can they clean the fuel & pump without replacing it? Very expensive fix if that's what might have caused the problem.

Quick summary of what I have done. I originally wired the Cort "color for color" on both sides like it was before I started (annotation 1) and nothing worked. I reversed the input wires and output wires (Caption 2) like the instructions said and I get TS's or Flashers Working, but don't know what to do about the Red wire/Brakes. I'm Stumped. This shouldn't be this hard. I do have a pin on my coach connector" called BL for brake lights. Here is my detailed update. This shouldn't be this hard. I got my Curt in yesterday and went to install it today. I attached a couple pictures here to explain this a little better. If I connect it according to the schematic with the Cort, I can get the flasher's, LTS and RTS to flash 12V on my voltmeter. (The box even has a distinct clicking to reflect the signal is working). All that works for the above configuration. Now my confusion. I don't know what to do with the Red wire. It's says it's "for the brakes", but it's not making sense. According to the document provided, the "coach" is considered "input" to the Curt. Green, White Yellow,". Output" is to the towing vehicle is Green, Red, Yellow. The Red says it's for the brake. As you can see in the picture (capture 2). I have the Red from the Coach hanging loose on purpose. The other Red hanging is the "output" going to the towing vehicle. If I connect the two Reds together for the brake lights to work, one would have to assume the Curt device would do something "internally" to turn on the brake lights (which I seriously doubt). It doesn't make logical or electric DC sense to me and that's why I'm asking you guys. I feel pretty sure if I connect the red from the coach to the white input, (which is called ground) I will pop a fuse somewhere. Does anyone think I should connect the Red from the coach to the white input of the Cort to see if the brake lights would work? The white was originally going to the chassis. Should I just bypass the (output) Cort Red wire altogether for my brakes to work and wire it straight to the toad connection. Any thoughts? This 30 minute job has turned into a three hour job so far. Thanks in advance. P.S. I'm using the wire nuts only to make sure the lights work and should have done that to test it first. I already wasted 6 connectors. When I get it working right, I will use proper connectors and button it up properly. Jim 02 Cayman

Thanks Eddy for the pics. Looks just like mine. So, I have mine loose, I haven't disconnected any of the A/C or Heater hoses. I have everything loose and was hoping to pull it back about another 2-3 inches. I hate to evacuate the AC because I just found the leak, repaired it and charged it. Works great. I don't want to disturb any of the heater hoses because you know how that will go. I'm trying to leave the connections in tack. I have removed all of the attaching hardware so all of the lines are free to pull out 4 to 5 inches without disturbing any fittings or hoses. Just a couple more questions. Does the cover come off of the two coils shown in the pic or does it come out in one piece with the two coils. FYI...It's been over 100 degrees here in Texas, so I'm being very patient with this project. It's supposed to cool into the 90's next week and I going to finish it then. Also, what did you use for the seal/sealant? Did you use form a gasket or just some silicone? I don't know what other stripping or sealant to use. Suggestions? If I don't remove the cover completely, I think I can clean it pretty good. I have a mini Dremel tool that will work cleaning it out using a mini 1" wire wheel. Jim 02 Cayman

I was hoping someone would know what might be attached to the evaporator and heater coil on the inside of the firewall. I got it to come out about an inch, but I'm not going to force it any further. It seems like something is holding it from coming all the away from the firewall. If you do know, maybe you could tell me how to detach what is holding it from the inside. I getting real close to putting it back together and letting it leak. Sometimes it's better to leave well enough alone. Thanks for the help in advance.

I have another update on the evaporator unit. I decided to remove it and just drop it back a little bit so I could see what was going on. I got it loose okay but I think something is holding it from the inside. Looking at the inside, looks like way more work than I want to do. I don't want to make this a project any bigger than it already is. Moving hoses and things only intensify the risk of doing more damage then I need or want to. I attached a couple pics so you can see I what I am seeing. It appears the gasket or whatever seal they used had completely disintegrated. I slid my fingers where the gasket should be and it's feels like sand particles. That is why it's leaking and not making it to the drain hose. So, if anyone knows what is holding the unit from coming away from the firewall from the inside, I would appreciate it. I only have about an inch all the way around it. I could probably get a Dremmel brush in there to remove the most of the old gasket. It would be a lot easier if I could detach from the inside. But that looks like more work than I want. Unless someone knows an easy way to do that, otherwise, I will probably work on it in tight quarters. If I was able to accomplish this and get it somewhat clean, what type of sealant should I use? I might be able to use "form a gasket" or maybe just a good bead of clear sealant caulk. Suggestions? Jim 02 Cayman

I got my replacements for my 02 Cayman $229 for both left and right. You might want to call and see if they have yours. Got mine at headlightsdepot.com on eBay. Tight fit, but they worked. Pic shows the before and after. Night and Day difference. Also, eBay has them at a great price. $94.00 four piece set. Be sure to stare at them and compare. Call the company to be sure. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MONACO-KNIGHT-2004-2005-2006-2007-HEADLIGHTS-PLUS-CORNER-LAMP-RV-PAIR-4PCS-SET/112543439211?hash=item1a341c996b:g:8oMAAOSwgLVZpEbO

Again, I want to thank all of you for your input and help. I have ordered the Curt Converter, The Klien Ratcheting Crimper and the Crip Electrical Connection Kit as suggested. It's a two week delivery so I will update and post the final result when finished. After looking at the connector from Tom's post, I want to confirm the dinghy connection is the European Connector. I did have to re-arrange the pin connections that came with my tow-bar some 4 years ago. One more thing I have to say. This Forum is the absolute BEST! The responses were quick and I am so impressed on how much time all of you have taken to help a fellow Coach owner and new to this forum. The time you have taken, to explain in such a detailed way resolving my problem, is both impressive and inspirational. Maybe someday I can be a contributor to others like all of you have been to me. Thanks again. ☺️ Jim Andrews 02 Cayman

Thanks again for all the help. I never thought a little thing like this would get this much input. I greatly appreciate it. As for an update. I attached another couple pictures to verify colors of the wires. It's actually white. . After looking at the replacement units, they seem to be called 3 in 2 out. Mine has 3 in and 3 out. Yellow, white and green on one side. I know the Yellow is the left turn signal because I metered the blinker pulsating to 11.5V on the yellow going in, nothing coming out on the yellow or any other lead coming out as I tested all three. Right side works okay and it is the green wire. I don't know what the center one is for just yet. I assume it's for the breaks. It is white, but discolored to red/white coming out of the little box as you can see in the attached image. After know what to look for, I found this on Amazon. This is what it looks like to me, I need. Agreed? And again, this website is so helpful. Thank all of you for your quick response and help.

Thanks for all the comments. I'm going to soak the screws for a couple of days. I will keep you posted on the results. I'm sure someone else will have the same questions down the line dealing with older coaches like mine. Jim 02 Cayman

Thanks for the responses and I'm VERY glad I asked. If you look at the picture, one side has a yellow, white, green going in and yellow, red, green coming out. What type of connection is this? What would I ask for or search for to get the correct replacement? Jim 2002 Monaco 36' Ft. Worth, TX.

My left turn signal doesn't work on my toad. Trouble shot it down to a little black box of some kind at the back next to the hitch. It has no markings, but it has 3 wires going in and 3 coming out. Power going in but no power going out. (See Pic). Does anyone know the purpose of it? Maybe some capacitor or fuse box and looks totally sealed. I might try to pry it open, but before I do that, I want to know if it is needed. I doubt I would find a replacement because I don't even know what to call it. So, my question is this. What if I cut the unit out and wire nut the wires together. Does anyone see a problem eliminating this device?

Thanks Ivan for the input. Oh, you must be talking about the the $125 hose the repair technician put in last year to fix this leak and said it was repaired. I went ahead and stuck a thick ty-wrap about 6-8"s and it seemed to be free and clear. I attached a couple pics so you can see what it look like. Notice how rusted the screws are. It's been doing this for a long time. I would like to replace those filters as well. Any suggestions on the material to use? That expensive hose does have a decent amount of drip coming out of it. As I said, I took the hose off and stuck a ty-wrap in there to clean it out. I'd rather take it apart though. Would it be a smart thing to do? Maybe the gaskets just wore out. I hate to try anything like that unless I know where to buy a replacement. I don't know what is inside of the evaporator.

I can't figure out why my evaporator is leaking down the fire wall. The drain is releasing water just fine, but when driving, i can hear water sloshing in the evaporator area. Because my MH is so old (2002) I hate to try to begin dismantling it for fear I will only make it worse and not be able to find parts to fix it. I attached a couple of pictures to hopefully get some ideas on what I should do about it, if anything. I want to see what I should do about the evaporator or should I just leave it alone. So far, it hasn't leaked inside the coach. I don't know what that silver valve/sensor is for and what it does. It's pretty rusty and I don't dare fiddle with any of that stuff until I can find a replacement parts. Suggestions for replacement parts would be helpful as well. The manufacture was in Ft Worth TX, but they are long out of business. FYI. I kept losing Freon and didn't know where the leak was until I look in the back by the motor. I found it to be wet back there at the fitting. The nut was loose at the condenser. It was a slow leak which caused the AC to crap out on a short distance trip. I was able to fix that. So, be sure to check and tighten your fittings. Also, unrelated, I am finding so many screws and things getting lose and just to let you know, it's a good time go over your MH and tighten things up. I'll take a picture and post the kind of things I'm finding later.

Well, I've got an update forr my doors not aligning. It turns out the rail has come loose at the top. After checking what held it in place, i found abut 5 nails were holding it from the roof to the wood the rail is mounted on. In the pics you can see how it's detached from the ceiling . No way am I going to open the roof to get to this. I don't want to try to hammer the wooden rail up because I might push the nails into the roof outside. I was thinking of cutting them off to get a smooth fit. Also, the rail is screwed to the wood and don't go through the wood and attach to the ceiling anywhere. Possible solutions? I thought I might get a good glue and glue it in place. Any suggestions on type of glue? Does anyone know if I can screw into the ceiling? If so, how deep? What would I be screwing into, wood, aluminum? How long of a screw should I use without going thru the roof? Another solution possibly: Looking at the ceiling ridge joint cover, does anyone know how those come off? I don't want to try to remove it and damage it only to find out they don't come off. In the picture the whiter 2" piece that joins the two darker colored panels it the ridge or joint cover I'm talking about. See other pics. Any help would be appreciated. Jim

I have a 2" gap at the top of the two doors between the bedroom and bathroom on my 2002 Cayman. I can't seem to figure out how to adjust the doors without taking the slide covers off. It looks like it should be an easy adjustment if I could get to it. I hate to take the wooden covers off because I may break them which I don't want to do. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to adjust the rollers? Maybe there is a stop in the center I could remove so I could slide the door further to the right to get to the other roller. I couldn't see one. Thanks, Jim

You can check out the website to see. headlightsdepot.com My set was $229 for both which included the bulbs with tax and free shipping. The difference at night with the new assembly is like day and night (no pun intended). Plus, I have spare lamps for high and low beams. I don't know what difference led lamps would make at this point.

Thanks for the response. Yes, I did. Anyway problem solved. All it took was another person, a couple screw drivers and a rubber mallet. As my buddy pried the lens where it should go, I used the rubber mallet to smack it into place. It amazing how much you can hit the lenses without breaking them. I would give them high marks for the quality of the assembly. I hit it a lot and hard and it didn't even think about breaking. Due to the limited space, you cannot get enough leverage to push the assembly in. I wanted to let anyone that wants to replace with the assembly, to be ready to use a rubber mallet to get it installed. Also, to have a second person to help guide the light for proper seating in the front of the assembly. As you can see in the picture, the difference is huge and worth changing the assembly. No amount of polish would clear up these old lenses.

Hello everyone. This should have been an easy fix, but before I begin forcing these headlight assembles into place and breaking something, I thought I ask the group if they had any tips for re-installing the headlight assembly on a Cayman 2002. It should be easy, two and a half hours later, I decided to quit and see if I could get a bit of help. I don't see any helpful videos on YouTube. I am a bit mechanical so it's not like I[m a first timer. Here is the problem. I removed both headlights which were relatively simple. A little tight pulling them out, but not a problem. The new ones I got from The LightDepot looks very nice and identical. They seem to be a perfect match. When installing, I can't seem to get it to go in the extra 1/2" where the outline of the original light was. If the new ones are off, they can't be by much. I did some measuring and they seem right on. My question is this. Does the rubber have to be against the frame so water doesn't come in around the lens or is having some gaps okay? I can caulk them, but the originals did not have any caulk or sealant around them. I'm wondering if the bottom has to go in first, or is there a little trick to getting them to seat properly. I have a friend coming over tomorrow to see if we can manhandle them into the proper seating where the rubber around the lens actually provides a seal. Has anyone had this issue? The plastic matches up so well, that it looks like I could use the old back base part and switch the old one for the new one they are that close. I'd rather not do that, but it's tempting. I can't help to think there is a trick someone might know before I end up breaking something because of me forcing the issue to make it fit. Thanks Jim

Hello, I went for 10 days during Christmas and NY 2 years ago. I stayed at "Destin RV Beach Resort" where my view outside the front window as sand and water. I really enjoy that place. It's pricey in the summer and you need reservations, but with today/s situation, you will have check. It was close to all types of restaurant's and places to visit. The only negative was the amount of sand ending up in my coach. I was by myself and did EVERYTHING to keep the sand out. Swept all the time, vacuum 2 times a day, kept my shoes outside, the whole nine yards. I was cleaning sand for 3 months afterwords. I didn't realize the wind stirs up a fine mist of sand (I think) that somehow finds its way inside. Lastly, you have to be aware of the salty air. It will rust most anything steel when moisture is in the air. So, I highly recommend this place, just be aware of the Cons'. I would go again though.

This is a good time to remind us all about blowouts and to "speed up" until you get control. Sounds crazy, but go to the link and see a proven video for the reason why. Safe travels. https://www.doityourselfrv.com/rv-tire-blowout-tip/I

Where is the best place to obtain 2 new headlights for my old C 02 Cayman. Old style or led would work with fair price. Anyone got any laying around. Jim

Are you still needing one? I bought a new one a year ago and never opened the box.. J

Just curious, what are moving on to? Can you send me a private message so we can talk about it? Ja

I know I asked this before, but did you happen to try connecting a laptop to your TV using HDMI. Of course you have to have a laptop with an HDMI port. That's just a simple way to test your HDMI. It's probably a mute point, but at least you would know if the port is bad or simply not compatible with the Firestick if you were curious.

I'm new at this site. Can't compare the differences from the old site. This one seems to be great! The people respond quickly and try to be helpful. What more does anyone want? Bumps in the road happens all the time. Since we all own MH's, we already know "stuff happens" and roll down the road with it. Jim