Mocephus

I would occasionally see it jump to 40+ When under load but it normally ran around 15 - 25 psi.

I would see it jump up in that range temporarily during a long uphill but now it seems to stay in the range under load unless I really back off the throttle. That’s what I’ve been doing to keep the boost pressure down and to keep it from sputtering, but it has me crawling up hills. I’m going to change the fuel filters today (if I have them with me) and double check the air filter. The air filter resistance gauge shows it’s ok, but I’ll do a visual inspection as well.

Thanks Bob, I’ll definitely give that a try first. Thank you! Oh that’s good to know! Thank you Paul! Ok thank you! Thank you Vito! That’s a good recommendation.

Hi friends! We left this past Thursday from our NC home to our destination campground in PA. About halfway into our 7.5 hr trip, our coach started spitting and sputtering going up hills and pouring black smoke out of the exhaust. Couldn’t really get above 60 even on level ground. Could maintain about 50-55 up hills. Turbo would run up to ~45 - 48 psi under any load and ran around 10 - 15 psi on level spots. Engine and tranny temp normal as well as oil pressure. Check engine light would come on as soon as I touched the gas pedal and then would go off once I removed my foot from the pedal. We pulled over at the next rest area and I contacted a DD60 mechanic in the area. He suggested a possible EGR valve issue or a Vpod issue…both of which were not quick fixes. He advised no harm to the engine if we kept driving...so we continued to our destination. Once at the CG I called a mobile mechanic who arrived and read the trouble codes (see photo below). He said the codes ruled out any bad fuel or fuel filter issues. He said the ”39” code was not very specific and could be one of five or six different things (EGR valve, turbo, cracked something?, etc.). Again, nothing that could be diagnosed or repaired at the CG. So, we’ll be driving it home Tuesday and then to a repair shop. Just wanted to see if any of you have experienced anything similar and what the issue was in your situation. Thanks for your help! ‘05 Monaco Signature w DD60

I had my '05 Signature's complete wiper assembly built by a company called Wiper Technologies, Inc, based out of Greensboro, NC. They took my assembly and built one just like it. They were purchased by Global Products LLC in 2020. I bet they can get or make what you need. https://www.globalproducts.llc/ Hope this helps! Moe

I had the same issue. When I purchased my ‘05 Sig, it was missing the DS front airbag guard. I could not find the replacement anywhere. I ended up buying a universal rock guard from Walmart, cut it to size and mounted it. Works perfectly. Sorry I don’t have the link as it looks like they no longer carry the one I purchased. Hope this helps!

Welcome from NC!

So sorry to hear of these very difficult times you are experiencing. Praying for your situation to quickly improve.

Hi Rick, I had to replace a leaking water valve on my Whirlpool and thought I’d never get the refrigerator out of the cabinet. It was not bolted to the floor at all. It was secured at the top by the cabinet trim piece and a metal flange. It was VERY hard to get out of the cabinet because it had fiberglass insulation wedged on each side making it extremely tight. I had to have someone push from the back while I pulled from the front.

I had the same issue with burnt contacts at the SW board. With the help from others here, here is the solution I implemented:

We just had our first experience with a 30 amp hookup and no soft starts. We were able to run two ACs and residential fridge but turned off one of the ACs if using the microwave. Hot water heater is another draw to be aware of. Overall it was not difficult to manage if you monitor the amps being used. Of course you could always start your generator if you really needed to power everything at once. Welcome to the group and happy camping!

Great outlook! I needed that! 🙂

Thank you John! That’s good to know about Coach-Net...I’m hoping I never have to call them again!

Update: Josam has completed the repairs. What a great experience there with Barry and his team! Coach-Net was awesome as well! Now I’m at Lazydays in Wildwood for the slide repair!

Paul thank you for this! I was glad to see my pressures are correct!

Yes, according to the motorist who flagged us down, it looked like a 4th of July celebration under our coach. Sounds like you ended up with a great fix!

Yes, I had planned to. While they’re under there I’ll also probably have them lube the chassis if they don’t charge too much and check for anything else that may need servicing (bushings, shocks, air leaks, etc.)

Thank you David, I’m feeling better each day with the decision to take it to Josam!

Fortunately I didn’t have to pry the fixture loose to get to those bulbs, the lenses unscrewed easily. If you have to lower the fixture, try using something plastic and thin, like an auto trim removal tool. I’ve used that successfully to pry fixtures from the ceiling. You may also be able to access them by removing the floor of the cabinet above it. It’s a false bottom. Not sure what it would take to get it up though.

Hi friends! So, just in case anyone else has struggled removing the glass lens on some of their puck lights, here’s an easy solution that worked for me. When replacing our incandescent bulbs with LEDs, I ran across two or three lenses that I could not work free even after lowering the whole assembly from the ceiling so I could get a good grasp on it. After you lower the fixture from the ceiling you will see two thin strips of metal on opposite sides of the housing. Those act as springs that hold two small plastic pieces that ride in the channel of the glass lens, so that you can unscrew it. They are supposed to spring out when twisting the glass lens so it can be removed. Sometimes they don’t and get caught on an edge in that channel in the lens making it near impossible to get the lens off without breaking it. So, to release the tension on those plastic pieces, wedge something non-conductive (to be super safe), like a toothpick or piece of plastic or even a piece of napkin like I did. Once both sides are wedged out a little, the lens will come off super easy. I’m sharing this because I’ve said enough bad words trying to twist off stubborn lenses and I’m hoping to save others from a similar emotional breakdown.

Passenger side front slide. The left side of that slide is living room couch, the right side (the one with the broken rollers) is the kitchen.

Thanks Bob, I sure will. Thanks Greg, while I was at Talin RV last week they checked all of my slides, and especially the one with the bad chain. Only the one with the bad chain needed adjustment. You are right, it doesn’t make sense that there aren’t more rollers on that big kitchen slide! Sadly, I bet it came down to $$.

DD60

Thanks Chris, yes I know not to use the slide. I also really appreciate that you guys are still on it, trying to find the best and most economical solution. Your whole team was awesome and I have full confidence that y’all will find the best solution! Thanks again for a great experience at Talin RV!! Thanks for the info Vito. I’ve heard that some leave their Jake on all the time but I only use mine when on mountain downhills. Hopefully doing that will lessen the stressors on that assembly. I’ll be sure to post photos of the fix!

Thanks! That’s great to know about Josam’s! No, I haven’t talked to them about mechanical repairs. I didn’t know that some policies cover that.