joefromperry

update: so I connected a tone-tracer to the wire in the rear run plate, and I get a good solid tone on the power wire at the switch. This makes no sense to me. If the wire has no breaks, which the solid tone indicates, and it's connected to 12v power, how is there no power at the switch? Suggestions?

Suddenly I have no power to the bedroom slide switch on my 2003 signature 45 commander. Starting in the rear run bay, on the J5 connector, there is power to the red wire that, according to the wiring diagram, then goes directly to the switch. The wires are all bundled in the plastic conduit as far as I can see, but I'm not sure if there is some point between the rear run panel and the switch where a connector might be failing or the wire might be exposed. The wire runs from the conduit in the bays up through the vanity, which is not easily accessible. I'm going to try to use a tone tracer to see exactly where the wire runs, but I was wondering if anyone has had this problem and / or replaced the wire itself. When I jumper the middle spade of the switch to 12v power, the slide works fine.

It's very easy to take it apart and clean off the corrosion. Often that's all that is needed. There are some YouTube videos on it. That's what I did on my 2003 signature.

My tank is under the entrance step to the motorhome. Same tank as generator slide uses.

Make sure your fluid tank is full when the slides are pulled in. That helped mine.

If yours is anything like the aquahot in my 2003 Signature, that large hole in the bottom lines up with the air intake of the diesel motor / burner, and it needs all the air it can get to function properly. I wouldn't cover that hole. I've never had a problem with road grime piling up in the cabinet.

I have a 2003 signature and want to change out all the old audio, the Bose, the vcr, the satellite stuff, etc. I'd like to do what SigPilot above did. Can I get specifics on what I need to do? I'm not sure where my subwoofer is, but can it be used with a new system? Thanks.

I replaced the cooling unit of my Norcold with the Amish unit two years ago in my 2003 Signature, and have been very satisfied so far. I didn't want to change cabinets and lose storage, and I wanted to keep the propane option. It only took them less than two hours to get it all done. I also recently added their interior fin fans.

When I had my 2000 Signature Admiral, I found that the big blue isolator was malfunctioning. After replacing it, all was good with charging both sets of batteries.

I'm very happy with the Amish conversion on my Norcold 1200. It's the propane/electric one, and it's a great improvement over the original Norcold. JC did the install at the FMCA rally last year. And, by the way, they tested the fan thermostat with a small torch. Oh, I have a 2003 Monaco.

my 2003 Signature charges both batteries when plugged in or with generator. That's the function of the Big Boy relay on mine.

Thank you. Here is what I have:

Jamie, can you please explain this in a little more detail? Thanks.

For all those who have or are pitching their Norcold 1200 refrigerators, I'm looking to replace my optical control board from the front. Although mine works fine, some of the LED sections on the diagnostic don't light up. Anyone have one I could take off their hands? Thanks. I'm cross-posting this in hopes of finding one cheap.

My wife and I usually spend a month or two in Florida, getting away from the cold and snow in Ohio. We've varied the places we've gone, and now are looking for some suggestions. We have a 45' Monaco Signature, pulling a Jeep Grand Cherokee. Specifically, we're looking for friendly RV parks, resorts, campgrounds that will accomodate us on the Atlantic side, from Melbourne to St. Lucie for January 2023, and on the Gulf side, from Cedar Key to Ft. Myers for February. Please give us some suggestions, plus and minus, of resorts you've visited. Thanks in advance. (cross-posting this) Just to clarify: we're not looking to be on the water / beach, just within reasonable drive.

I had the same issue with the fuse blowing on my 2003 signature. I pulled the big boy and took it apart, cleaning the corrosion, etc. It wasn't difficult to do. When I put it back together, the fuse stopped blowing. Been good for a year now.

When I needed new fabric for three toppers and two new springs for my 2003 Signature, I called Carefree, and all they needed were the numbers from my build sheet. They were fast and courteous. But I do agree that Stone Vos is super to deal with. I didn't know about them at the time.

You have some good info in the replies above. My question is: where in Webster, Florida are you going? We're at Oak Alley. Just curious.

If you have access to your coach's build sheet, the info is probably on that. That's where I found the information to replace the toppers on my 2003 Monaco.

That is the worst design. I have the same thing on my 2003 signature kitchen slide, only it's on the passenger slide. Mine didn't kink like yours, but the flexible pipe pulled away from the solid pipe, and the clamps that held the kitchen drain pipe to the wall pulled away, causing lots of extra movement. It's not too difficult to fix yourself. I have a slider / pulley type system that rolls with the flexible pipe when slide is pulled in and out. Is yours the same?

Thanks. I don't have that switch.

on my 2003 Signature, I almost exclusively use the keypad to lock/unlock everything. If there is a lock/unlock feature in the back bedroom, I have no idea where it would be. Those that have the rear lock/unlock, where is it on your coach, please?

I have a 2003 Signature, and my door lock/unlock keypad is in front.

Hi, Old. I had removed the unit from the coach, and then opened / removed the case. I pressure tested the unit then, and that's when I saw it leaked from the neck. The filler top came off pretty easily, as there was hardly any solder there. I couldn't fix it, and that's when I took it in to my radiator guy, who silver-soldered it back on. I concur with Paul's suggestion to join the above forum, although Roger was absolutely no help to me. He does have a non-solder replacement for the filler top, if you don't want to pull the whole thing out, but it's around $240. Let me know if I can answer any more questions. By the way, I have it all reinstalled and everything works as it should. I did have to replace the whole exhaust, as it was so rusted that it broke during removal. I had a muffler shop bend me a new piece; I heat-wrapped it and installed it.

Thanks for the replies. Here's an update. My radiator guy fastened the filler neck / radiator cap area with silver solder. No leaks. I then replaced the check valves, as they were less than $7 each at Menards. My final quest is to replace the brushes on the circulation pumps, as on the one pump that wasn't working when I pulled the brushes, there was nothing left, only the spring. I found a place that is open on Saturday and only an hour away, so tomorrow I'll get them, fix the pumps, and try to get it all back together.