Bob Wightman

https://www.rvajack.com/RVA-Manual-Leveling-System-Electrical-Replacement-Parts

I had the same problem with my switches on my 04 Monaco Knight. I just ordered replacement switches from RVA and replaced all of them. Super easy to do,. and you don't have to remove the panel. All you do is use a small flat blade screwdriver to get under the edge of the switch and it will just pop out, transfer the wires onto the new switch in the same order as removed and snap it back in...DONE, now repeat for the other switches.

I have a 2004 Monaco Knight and I have the wiring diagram books, which are helpful but really hard to use as the schematics don't tell you where anything is...and all the wires are white with little black markings on them to identify which wire is which. I know from when I had to add a brake controller for a 7 wire plug to tow a trailer, the brake light control (on/off) is on the control board in the bay under the drivers side window. I'm pretty sure it was a relay that controls the lights, I think the brake switch was a pressure switch on the master cylinder. The odd thing compared to most vehicles (as I remember) its a normally closed circuit (12V on) and when you push on the pedal the circuit opens (12V off). To get the brake controller to work I had to find the wire that came off the output of the relay so when the brake lights went on it activated the brake controller to engage the brakes. So, with that said, your problem is probably on that board in the bay...and if you're lucky it may just dry out and go back to normal, or you may have a blown fuse. If you still have problems I could probably send you a picture of that page. Good Luck!

I have had tire inflator extension valves on my las two Class A MH, i wouldn't be without them ever again. So much easier to check and maintain tire pressure, never had a problem with them either.

Doesn't the "Recall Kit" that turns the fridge off if it gets too hot do the same thing? I've got the Norcold 1200 in my Monaco Knight and have had to replace the recall kit board twice due to board failure (the fridge was fine). If this helped the unit run cooler (I've got an ice maker that wont make ice as the freezer doesn't get cold enough) i'd be interested in it.

4 hours and 300 miles away...each way. Probably not worth it unless we make a trip up that way for a weekend get away, especially with the cost of Diesal fuel these days (FJB). I'll keep it in mind.

Where in Florida? I'm in West Palm Beach 33470 and have a Norcold 1200LRIM in my 2004 Monaco Knight that I have fixed (electronics) a couple of times and is working fine now...but it might be nice to have a backup.

Since i converted to flat screen TV's i sometimes have a problem with them coming on "on their own". What the problem is is that there are manual buttons at the back of the TV that most people don't even know are there, on mine the power button was against the wood frame and for whatever reason the button would get pushed and turn the tv on. I cut out the wood in that area and the problem vanished..

I have a 2004 Monaco Knight that had an old single camera B&W monitor (pretty standard for the time) that used a single coax cable. When I upgraded to a 4 camera (2 on the back and one on each side at the front) I had to abandon the wire and run all new cables from the back to the front. Since that cable has so many conductors showing it appears that somebody already replaced the wire with hat looks like Thermostat or sprinkler wire (cat see the end to see if it also has a coax wire for the video signal). Your best option "may" be to just try to find the wire wherever it comes out and use it as a pull wire to pull in a new cable and run that cable to the front however they ran the cable for the camera down low. Its a pain but it can be done, I love having my 4 camera color system with quad flat screen monitor in my dash where the old B&W monitor was. Good Luck!

I have a 2004 Knight with a rock chip on the right side too, would like to get it replaced as it annoys me but somehow doesn't seem to bother the wife (I say she's in a phone coma when "I" am driving). In West Palm Beach, FL if somebody has an idea who does this around here.

What I have IS a latching relay. When you pulse the switch inside the door the relay closes, but it's not a magnetic relay closing it is a plunger type thing that closes the contacts and turns on the power. When you pulse the relay again the plunger clicks and opens the contacts. I have monitored the purple control wire and it only gets power when the switch is closed triggering the solenoid so when its either engaged or disengaged theres no draw on the solenoid coil. You would think this thing would be serviceable but it's not, fortunately it's always failed and left the solenoid in the "On" condition. I think i'm just going to bypass it with a battery switch in the front compartment under the drivers seat. Not convenient, but more convenient than the one in the battery compartment and i'm tired of messing with this thing. KIB LR9806 Latching Relay.html

I have a 2004 Monaco Knight that i have replaced the salesman switch solenoid several times, and just did it again recently just to have it fail again. I'm using original part number and every time i replace it everything works good for a few months then it blows the fuse again. I like having this feature as i don't have the opportunity to use the coach as much as i would like and i can just turn everything on as i come in the way i left it last. All my electrical connecting to the solenoid is good, I have replace the actual switch itself and still cant seem to make it reliable. Has anybody else experienced this problem and found a solution for it? I'm considering just replacing it with a battery on/off manual switch and be done with it but wanted to run it past the group for advice first. Thanks in advance!

I had almost the same problem on my 2004 Monaco Knight with a 300HP Cummings when I bought it almost a year ago. I bought it knowing it had a bad alternator, took it directly to a shop and had it changed along with all the belts and hoses and everything else maintenance related that nobody had done during its lifetime. On the ride home the alternator light came on again and I could tell from the volt gauge that the battery voltage was depleting, made it home ok. Being really good with electrical and pretty good mechanical (and since the shop that repaired it was 4 hours away) if dug into it and i found a few things that might help you. First on the wiring at the alternator there are two fuses in a weatherproof rubber box on the wires...both were blown, replaced both and still no luck but they did not blow again. Long story shorter I determined that the wire from the dash to the alternator had a short in it somewhere (never could find out where) so I cut the wire loose at the dash (the wires are marked on the individual wire jacket) and cut the charge wire off before the fuse, ran a new wire from the front to the back under the coach and connected them together and it has worked fine ever since. A lot of work and not easy, and something I doubt that the shop tech's would have figured out how to do and still would have cost me thousands in man hours trying to figure it out. Good luck, hope this helps...wish I had insight like this to read before I started troubleshooting this problem.

Ivan K, thanks for the referral. I too have a 2004 Monaco Knight with a rock chip in the passenger side windshield that is more annoying than anything else, I just requested a quote.

ncsteve and Dr4Film thank you for posting! I also am a new owner to an older coach and did not know that overflow was there. I just crawled under it and found it on the wall in front of the passenger side rear wheel (never saw it before). It has some sort of rubber nipple sorta thing on there to (I assume) try to keep Mud Dobbers out. I'll pull it apart over the weekend and clear the blockage. Thanks guys for the help, and thanks illiniCathy for posting a question about a problem i have that I didn't even know I had.

On my 2004 Knight we have two fresh water fill ports, one where you screw a hose on to the the panel and open the valve to fill the tank, the other is where you take the cap off to fill the tank by sticking the hose in. In either way of filling when the tank is full it overflows out of the port where you stick the hose in to fill. I normally remove the cap on that port when filling to let the air escape more easily. 0FE4718D-3922-4F51-A863-F400BF681A3E.heic

FYI, my rig also has the exhaust brake and I have no problem using the brake controller when getting the signal from the brake light circuit.

I also installed the Prodigy on my 04 Monaco Knight, i ordered mine from Amazon but also have ordered many things from eTrailer with good results. My coach was already wired with a 6 wire trailer light plug and an old (unused/defective) flat tow controller so I tied onto both of those systems to install a new 7 wire/4 wire combo plug as I tow both big and small trailers for ATV's, Airboat, Swamp buggy, etc. and most of the trailers have electric brakes. There is a switched 12 volt off the key up under the dash that was pretty easy to find but finding the brake signal was a little difficult. I did find it on the electrical panel outside behind the basement door under the driver side window, which is where the brake lights get their signal/power from. I just jumped onto that and ran a wire in through the front firewall to the steering wheel area where I mounted the controller, and just to be sure the brakes worked correctly I ran a new brake wire back to the 7 wire plug just strung under the coach where I could get it through and keep it protected. It took me a day to do and it wasn't easy but it works great, would be easy if i had to do it again now that I know how it all works. I read that the coach is already wired for electric brake control but with all the wires being white it was a pain to find so I just made it work with what I had. I could send pictures of how I installed it if it would help you. Good Luck!

I've found its just easier and better to replace the entire faucet, and you also get a chance to upgrade the look.

Mine is under the TV too, and I recently replaced the thermostat covers as they had degraded. I'll try messing with those wires to see if they do anything...but on mine (as i have said before) I only get the short cycling when the TV is turned on...

i have the same problem, but the odd thing is that it seems to act up mostly when the rear TV is on. And it's not the TV as I upgraded the size of the bedroom TV and the new one does the same thing. I never spent the time to troubleshoot it as we are just occasional weekend campers that rarely use the TV's. If somebody has figured this out i'll continue to follow as I would like to get it fixed...or if I find out what is causing it I will post the results. 2004 Monaco Knight

Hello Group, I have a 2004 Monaco Knight with 8.3 L Diesal Cummings and two slide outs. The safety protect will not allow you to operate the slide outs with the engine running, however it will allow you drive the coach with the slide outs in the out condition. This seems odd to me as when we are packing up to come home I like to warm up the big Cummings diesel while we are getting things put away, the last thing I want to do before we leave is to bring in the slide outs...which I have to shut the motor down to do. I want to bypass that protect circuit so I can bring the slides in with the motor running, and I'm sure I can figure it out, just wondering if anybody else has already done this and could advise if its better to do at the dash or back in the control center. Thanks in advance!

Hello Group, I have a 2004 Monaco Knight with a 300 HP Cummings & Allison transmission. On my last trip I noticed transmission fluid on the ground when I parked at our site, figured something was loose since I just had the transmission serviced. Checked pan & filter bolt tightness...found a few a little loose, tightened & cleaned and thought I was ok...until I got home and the pan was wet again. Cleaned it off and did some checking, found one of the cooler lines was bubbling from the compression fitting on the hose and check lines/cracks in the hose so figured I'd just remove both hoses and replace them with new. Problem is I cant get them to break loose, and almost no room to work back by the engine/radiator...anybody ever had this problem and know what to do? I'm ready to give up and take it somewhere but don't know where to go, looking for suggestions for a Class A RV service center in or near West Palm Beach, FL. Thanks in Advance!

You can buy the replacement microswitches (on eBay as I remember) for about $20 bucks. I replaced them on my last RV and it fixed the problem...and thats what they do when they "Rebuild" them. Took me about 30 minutes total to replace the 4 microswitches using a standard pencil tip soldering iron, solder wick, and radio/TV (thin gauge) solder.

I had sorta the same problem on my last coach, which was a 1997 Ford F53 chassis gasser. The problem is that the transmission was getting hot, turned out the transmission was a little low on fluid, had the transmission serviced (fluid change & filter) and it fixed the problem. Don't know if thats whats going on for you but it's somewhere to look.