cbr046

I don't know if low coolant will throw a code, but the sensor could be bad or poor connection.  It's on top of the coolant tank and can be checked with a volt meter (key on). 

I believe the transmission fluid level can trigger a warning light but maybe not a code.  EZ to check - Best to check the owners manual for this procedure but basically transmission warmed up, press up and down arrows (same time) on transmission pad and wait several minutes.  The selector will count down to zero and flash a low, high or ok code. 

Good luck,

- bob

The ISL engine in JDCrow's photo doesn't match his Diplomat.  We both have the ISC engine with rear radiators. 

I tried the "one blade at a time" installation.  It doesn't work.  I'm laying on a pillow now . . .

- bob

On 5/4/2021 at 11:15 PM, JDCrow said:

So, I’m not sure, but my AC belt is different than the serpentine belt. 
 

The serpentine belt will fit over the fan, the compressor belt will not. It’s like an old s school V-belt, about 18-20” in diameter. I believe I have to get the fan off. Here’s a pic, wish my engine was this easy to get to and clean. Oh the side Rads, why did they go away? 
 

Let me know if I’m off base. I’m late and work and not following along very well 

 

thanks! 

@JDCrow Sorry to revive a 3 yr old thread, but how did that compressor belt change work out?

I found pieces of my shredded belt laying in the bottom of the pan between radiator and fan.  Can't get the new belt over the fan blades, and can only feel the bolts holding the fan on (hope I don't drop one . . . ).  Meanwhile I feel like I'm going to bust a rib laying over the threshold.  And everything is filthy oily sooty.

We have essentially the same motor . . . . What did you have to do to replace that belt?

- bob

I use an oiled "sock" over my oiled motorcycle filters.  It saves a lot of dust from getting to the filter.

My shop vac has a foam filter that goes over the paper filter.  No, I don't oil it . . .

It'd be sweet if someone made a similar sock to go over the RV paper air filter.  The right density wouldn't interfere with airflow.  Might not be able to oil it . . . . but imagine peeling it off, washing then re-installing it for extended filter intervals.  The inner air chamber never gets exposed. 

- bob

15 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

What you DON’T want to do is to use the pump while city water pressure is on the system (I.e., to “boost” city water pressure). This can (and will, in my first-hand experience) cause the diaphragm on your pump to rupture, causing city water and pump pressure to backfeed and cause all sorts of weird behavior. Some have done this for years with no problem, however it is not recommended by the pump manufacturers.

Worth repeating!

At campgrounds we use our own known quality tank water, but our stays are only a few days at best. 

I don't know what our pump psi is, but it's not enough.  *IF* it ever fails I'll replace with a higher psi pump, but it pumps water and (as far as I know) I don't have soapy hair.  👨‍🦳

- bob

OP's problem is in the FRB . . . . but my ATS switches with a 'clunk' when connecting to shore power or genny power.  Southwire / Surge Guard 40100.  Just sayin'

Danny should be able to put a finger on each solenoid and feel if the 'thud' is coming from that component.  It's all 12V so no fear of electrocution, just make sure to remove any metal from the hand reaching in (wedding ring, metal watchband, etc.).

- bob

Slides won't operate with the engine on, and steps automatically retract if the engine is on and door closed.  Find the engine cutoff gremlin and these other issues should fix themselves. 

- bob

Sometimes I get a clunk also.  The front left side panel around the wheel and fuel door panel aren't secured all that well and it may be wind hitting it just right.  It's very infrequent in my case. 

- bob

1 hour ago, Bill C said:

UPDATE (probably my last): Frig seems to run fine, been running on propane for 26 hours now, fins hot at the top, fan runs periodically to cool the fins, yet after 26 hours, freezer is 47 deg F and frig is 62 deg F. Frig tech said everything seems to be good, he could not see why it was not cooling properly.

With everything seeming to be running normal, WHY ISN'T IT COOLING?

After 26 hours you should be near normal temps (0F freezer, 36F fridge), certainly better than 47 / 62.  It's possible you lost some of the refrigerant causing the Not-So-Cold condition.  They can corrode near the flame and the horrid yellow dust gets hidden by the insulation around the boiling tube (flame part).  It's non-serviceable. 

23 years?  Stick a fork in it.  It's done. 

- bob

22 minutes ago, rpasetto said:

I don't know if any of you have run a new camera cable front to rear but pictures would sure help. 

My coach now has a wireless camera (Furrion) and I'm not happy with image quality contrast, brightness etc.  When I replace it I'd like to go with a wired one... if the old cable is not there, or bad, I may need to run a new one too.

Finding the right connectors to use that existing cable is the trick.  Many come close but Sony went with a proprietary connector made out of unobtanium. 

I went with a Chinese wireless camera then spliced into the audio wire pair to run +12V to the camera, and mounted it above the existing built in camera.  I had to hack into the Sony monitor to isolate the audio pair.  Now I can see the hitch (OEM) *AND* the end of the trailer (Chinese), and it's good enough to view clearance while pulling back into lane.  Not the best camera (Yakry in this case) but gets the job done. 

I bought the forward mounted camera so I could record traffic in front.  Between the split screen and horrible user interface the forward camera was a waste of money. 

You might consider making a shroud for brightness . . . .

- bob

25 minutes ago, Joint Venture said:

I have a 2003 version of the 1200 Norcold and when we bought our coach it would not cool very well. We put up with it till we got to JC Refrigeration in Shipshewana, IN. The removed the fridge and converted it to dual 12V compressors, one for freezer and the other for the fridge.  Freezer maintains -1* easily and fridge is consistantly 37-39*. Best $1500 I ever spent.

And with an appointment they can do the work in a few hours . . . That includes putting in a new absorption unit or compressor. 

- bob

I was wondering why mine would chirp once/minute . . . . End of life!

I replaced it with this PANGAEA RV Carbon Monoxide & Propane Dual Gas Detector for $55 as the OEM Safety-T-Alert was over double the cost.  I did have to make an adapter mounting plate to cover the huge ugly hole Monaco put in the original mount. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CBVY4WRY/

I make the mistake of soldering it in with a grounded soldering iron.  My fuse is in the front run bay (2003 Endeavor).

It looks like Amazon reduced the price of one of their Safe-T-Alerts dual detector to $70. MTI Industries seem to have several models that do the same thing . . . .

- bob

You can read the print on the wires for extra clues, but I don't see the same connector that I have (3x3 Molex style).  It may be shoved somewhere else under the dash.  So much fun laying on your back twisting your body around the driver's seat jammed between the steering column and the pedals. 

- bob

$5000 can buy a lot of lithium / solar.  Oh yeah, and a new fridge too. 😉 

Does the boiler (part with the flame / heat elements) get hot?  If so everything is working, except the chemistry. 

I've heard of the refrigerant crystalizing inside the tube and a few hard blows knocking everything lose.  It might be urban legend, don't know.  Worth a try . . . maybe with a rubber mallet.

You might get lucky and run across a new camper's propane fridge being replaced for a residential.  That's what we did but it took months to run across a unit. 

Good luck,

- bob

1 hour ago, Bill C said:

Thanks Bob. What did you do about the flue on the wrong side?

Only a diverter (angled sheet of flashing).  It's not the best setup as sometimes I detect propane fumes into the coach while driving.  While parked no issues, and I run on propane except when parked at home. 

- bob

We bought a Dometic RM1350 when our Norcold 1200 bit the dust.  It was a perfect fit, except the flue was on the wrong side. 

- bob

28 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

What is your cheater resistor.

suggesting that it does make a different which wire is connected to which post on the relay

A relay doesn't have polarity, just inductance and resistance.  Maybe if a relay had a clamping diode on it, but those are usually in circuit. 

It's a 560 ohm 2W, should be ~ 24ma, installed over two years ago.  I should pull it out and check it but it's soooo much fun crawling under that greasy mess . . .  and it's raining then turning cold.  Spring is in the air, just not in the next few days LOL.

BTW, the Warning Light is on with key, goes out then comes on 1 - 4 sec after the Wait to Start light goes out.  It varies. 

What's really baffling me is it came on when I went to leave from camping.  Drove 200 miles with it on, checked fluids and PS fluid was low (steering box leak).  Topped it off and the Warning Light went out and stayed out for several more trips.  Here's the baffling part:  THERE'S NO SENSOR ON THE PS FLUID RESEVOIR! 😮 

- bob

I reset misfire codes with the ScanGauge on my old gasser, so some codes can be reset for sure.

I don't know that codes keep popping up.  The shop just said there was a history of "hi oil pressure" codes.  As long as I'm investing in a scanner . . . . which one is best to use on the road, then see and reset codes?  BlueFire, ScanGuage D or a dedicated shop scanner?

I remember that not having the lift pump connected would generate a Warning Light, and I have a cheater resistor in it's place, but would the lack of a lift pump generate a code to go with the Light?

- bob

On 3/4/2024 at 3:49 PM, cbr046 said:

And when you finally do find your gremlin let us know.  My headlights have been cutting out and I've yet to find the magic.  The last two 1 hour trips they worked perfectly.  Of course, they were daytime trips.  🤐

@saflyer I found the gremlin, and the mysterious connector "under the dash".  Turns out it was inside the steering housing.  I was actually chasing something else when discovered.

One jumper is for headlights, the other is for running & marker lights. 

Next time I get a whiff of burning plastic I know where to look!

- bob

If the fuse checks out ok consider this jumper I just found today inside the steering housing. 

The burnt part is the headlight jumper.  The other jumper is for parking and marker lights.  Just something to consider.

- bob

Still fighting my Warning Light . . . . Would a BlueFire be able to reset a code like hi oil pressure?  Scan D? 

Also considering a dedicated scanner like this one, except it wouldn't be very useful at 65 mph.

https://www.amazon.com/Reader-Automotive-Diagnostic-Autophix-Scanner/dp/B018YSNIEY/

And no guarantee it can reset all codes.

Thoughts?

- bob

Just got ours in GA - Progressive increased it 5% to $1131 (annual policy)

- b

Your 02 Diplomat is pretty much identical to our 03 Endeavor.

I just went through this and couldn't get them to budge either.  Sadly, my 40" breaker bar is a "flex" model so I only had so much movement before it flexed to an obstruction.  Even with another 36" pipe extension it was no good.  I did find a path through the front hatch to the top nuts, but still no joy (muscle deficiency, obstruction).  This included the purchase of a 3:1 torque multiplier and still couldn't budge it.  And the purchase of a 1200W induction heater.  The bottom nut got hot enough to smoke but not red hot.  Shoulda bought the 1800W model? 

I ended up writing a check.  Just got it back yesterday. 🙂

- bob

TYC is a Chinese company that makes aftermarket lights, lenses and such.  Probably won't be able to get just the gaskets . . . .

https://www.amazon.com/TYC-11-5008-80-1-Ford-Left-Replacement/

- bob

My Warning Light comes & goes.  I just got it back from service (TRW steering gear installed).  They checked for codes and got multiples of "hi oil pressure" code.  Hmmm . . . bad sensor?

My manual says Warning Light is for "Out of range condition exists within the engine protection circuits. Stop coach, check all fluid levels.".  I first got the light when my hyd / power steering fluid was low.  It's not low . . . .   coolant level is ok, too.  Trans fluid checked by keypad (ok). 

Like flynwalter I'm not sure where to turn.  

- bob