Wrayj1

We have this toilet, Three years ago it stopped flushing after intermittently flushing for a couple of months. Control board located inside the side of the toilet was bad. It's a plug and play so only had to remove s rows from floor, turn it slightly then remove and replace control board. After several inquiries found the control board out of stock most places, some had been waiting 6 months or more for stock. Looked on Amazon, found it for two different prices, only had one in stock, quickly purchased it, had it in 4 days. Took 1/2 hour to replace, has worked well since. Also replaced the rusted screws to secure it to the floor with stainless. Good luck finding the board. FYI, if you cannot find the board and was to replace the toilet check xeveral sites for prices then check Northwest RV Supply, Eugene, OR. At the time their price was $600 less than most others. They might have the control board as well.

It wasn't the traveler it was the round dome in motion satellite. It wasn't too heavy, maybe 50 lbs. I had a friend help me. We tied a couple of straps around it lowered it over the driver's side upside down to have a smooth surface slide down the side of the coach.

Removed mine 3 years ago, left the brackets, sealed around them with dicor and eternabond tape.

Have you considered a sound bar?

We have the Sharp Convection micro, which had the recirculating vent with charcoal filter, it was ineffective. We removed the micro, purchased a exterior vent with damper to keep bugs out, repositioned the fan motor to vent to the outside, works great and prevents the hot air from recirculating into the coach. Our exterior vent is the same one as Richard Smith posted.

Sue & Bruce, there is a huge need for RV Technicians, he could recoup his investment quickly. However, you say he is nearing retirement, which begs the question, is he healthy and in reasonably good physical condition? He would likely have to invest in tools if he doesn't already have them? There would also be business licenses, insurance etc. You didn't say if he is planning to work for a dealership or strike out on his own? If he is self-employed he could charge $120-$150 per hour or more. Would it benefit him to work for a dealer for a few months to get more on the job experience? I don't know what the pay rate for a dealer tech is, but in my area the $150 per hour plus 5% for shop supplies is pretty standard for the dealer, not the tech. There are many factors to be considered, the primary one is how much does he want to work vs being retired. Good luck with your decision.

Presuming you have separate units?

Have you gooogled the size fridge you need to see what hits you get. Also, you may be able to lower the platform your fridge sets on, I had about 2" I could lower mine. Also check to see how much space you have from top of your current fridge to the bottom of the top fridge cabinet. Good luck.

I would appreciate instructions and pathway for posting a rig for sale and uploading photos of rig.

I changed my board out in 2020, found it on Amazon for $175.

Are you sure you don't have a GFCI somewhere? On our 2007 Holiday Rambler it's near the floor near a cabinet that leads into the hallway.

Try googling Steele Rubber Products, they are in North Carolina. I have ordered several door seals from them. Their rrps are very helpful and will let you know what products to order.

I agree with Hobie, Camping World would be the last place I go. I had a similar sutuation,not with CW, in 2017 when I was selling another rig. However, the person I spoke with told me up front that the offer was less thsn wholesale and advised me to sell it on RV Trader or another retail site. I thsnked him for his honesty and sold it for ore than double his offer.

Denny, i have used the Rand McNally 7710 since 2014, it still works, but is no longer supported for updates by Rand McNally. I have researched new GPS systems from several manufacturers, but each one, when checking reviews, seems to have issues. It seems my choice is between the lesser of two evils. Good luck. This may not be helpful, but perhaps you can do better at the process of elimination. Ray Webb 2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor

Les Schwab, Woodburn, Oregon. Might be higher now that quote was from May '22.

Much thanks and gratitude to Tom Cherry who called me and talked me through resetting my remote/system. The system is now working as it should. We will be selling our coach in a few months and I will inform the new owner that my best guft to him will be access to this forum. The wealth of knowledge here is immeasurable. Thanks again Tom.

Tom, i can't thank you and everyone enough for your help and concern, i'm cluesless with this stuff. With that said would you be willing to give me a phone number so i can text photos to you ?

Here is the latest as i see it. I have probably not given proper names to things. The EMS shows 20 amps incoming, and power to the water heater, the washer/dryer, and front and rear ac's. The power light is green as well as the chargee abd inverter lights, no fault indicated. However the read out for v and a zre steady on 53.5v and 535a. Everything jn the coach sedms to ge working, 12v lights, fridge, 10ac plugs etc. This is only from 20amps of shore power. The batteries are not hot and there is no odors or anything else unusual. Is it possible that the system is functioning and that the high v and a readings are related to that lie e of equipment being faulty?

IMyron, I have unplugged and will try to upload photos of battert bank aa well as intellitec readout. Have not upload anything before, could use some help with that if I'm unsuccessful. I presume the batteries would be veryhot to the touch if they are oveecharging? They are not hot and there are no fumes or odd odors. However, after I did a rexet yexterday the fault light went away. The reading I am currently getting on the intellitec board is DC charger standby, 80.4v. 603a. I will send photo of battery bank after I get photo upload instruction. I did not change batteriesI had a tech remove themto repair, clean and paint the battery tray as part of a list of repairs.

Great! Thanks for posting Rick, always good to hear a success story as well as get some new information.My 2007 Holiday Rambler is also pre-DEF, but has auto leveling. We are getting it ready to sell if you know anyone. I can provide specifics if anyone is interested.

Tom, Saturday i took my coach to stoorage at that time the battery charge level was reading yellow(good), i brought it home today anrd the battery level showed grern(fully charged) it was not plugged into shore power for the last two days. Also the intellitec is reading DC 53.5v and 535a with the red fault light on. The power button is green as well as the chg and inv. Any idea why the DC 53.5v and 535a reading and should i disconnect my shore power? Currently plugged into 15amp using dog bones.

Tom, thanks very much for the great trouble shooting list. I have gone thru all the steps you listed except disconnecting tye batteries etc, the EMS seems to be good, but still not charging. Next move is to disconnect the batteries and do the reset. I'm boing to defer that until next week when we meet some friends for an outing, they agreed to help so we can expecite the process and get back to relaxing with a margarita. Here's to ya! Cheers!

2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor. 40 SKQ Cummins 400 w/Allison 6 speed tranny I took my cowch to a repair shop to have several little issues addressed in preparation for selling it. I want everything look I ng good and working for the new owner. One of tge items on my list was to remove batteries, clean, paint and lubricate the battery tray. All the work was completed. However, wheni plugged into my 20 amp circuit at home nothing registers on the control panel. It shows 20 amps in, but the panel does not show that the batteries are charging, the invertor does not seem be on either. The batteries show charged goid, but not fully charged. Usually when I run slides in and out the panel will show that i am using 5 amps, tonight it shows one amp. I am not very adept at this stuff and would appreciate any help.

Yes, safe is a very relative term as is secure. We have a female friend who is quite paranoid regarding security of her home. She asked me about various locks, security cameras, etc. My reply was that locks work reasonably well for slowing down entry into your house, security cameras will get you a picture of the invader, who has long been gone before you can react to it and with all that said and done your best bet is to remove your windows because if they are determined to get in breaking a window or patio door is the easiest way in. I recommended she have good locks, close and latch the windows, have security cameras, but nothing guarantees that someone can't get in. My thought is that motion sensor lights on all sides of your house is as good a deterent as anything. When the light comes on a potential intruder doesn't know if your home and turned on the light because you knew they were there. Sorry for the dissertation, but security issues amuse me.

Hopefully someone knows, may need a locksmith or a safe cracker.