Gary Cole

Silverleaf is a great product. However I'm not thrilled with duct taping a laptop to my dash. I use an Android app on all my other vehicles which accesses all OBD parameters. Has a fully customized screen and pairs with the in dash head units. Looks great on a 10" display. Costs the princely sum of $10.00 in the Google app store. Like to see Silverleaf port their software to Android so that I could use my existing 10" stereo head unit in my RV in a similar fashion.

I have an 05 ISL so might not be the same. I found that the Beede instruments share the sensor output with the ECM including the trans temp/Allison comp. So the ohm ranges being non standard means you cannot changeout the existing sensors to match new gauges which use accepted ohm inputs. ECM and transmission comp will be confused. #5 cylinder has a provision for a water temp sensor which you can use for your new gauge sensor. Tight fit. Had to grind a deep socket to install it. The trans sensor is also non standard. I installed a tee in the oil cooler supply line for the new sensor. Don't put the sensor in the return line as the return temp is not trans operating temp. Similar solution for oil pressure sensor. I like the idea of redundant sensors because in the event of a code one has an independent data point to aid in deciding whether it is true or false. Hope this helps. Good luck. I like the GPS speedometers. My next upgrade.

Good information at this link: https://cinematography.com/index.php?/forums/topic/50236-do-honda-portable-generators-have-to-be-grounded/ With pictures!!😄 Some of the comments could use a rewrite. Applies to all generators not just portable. Note the discussion regarding ground rods. I think the NEC is a little lax on this requirement. I always want to bond the frame of a portable generator to earth. Building service raceway, metal gas pipe, water pipe, fence post. Whatever one can do to establish the shortest ground path possible to mother earth. If nothing else one could use battery jumper cables.

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Good information at this link: https://cinematography.com/index.php?/forums/topic/50236-do-honda-portable-generators-have-to-be-grounded/ With pictures!!😄 Some of the comments could use a rewrite. Applies to all generators not just portable. Note the discussion regarding ground rods. I think the NEC is a little lax on this requirement. I always want to bond the frame of a portable generator to earth. Building service raceway, metal gas pipe, water pipe, fence post. Whatever one can do to establish the shortest ground path possible to mother earth. If nothing else one could use battery jumper cables.

Good information at this link:https://cinematography.com/index.php?/forums/topic/50236-do-honda-portable-generators-have-to-be-grounded/ With pictures!!😄 Some of the comments could use a rewrite. Applies to all generators not just portable. Note the discussion regarding ground rods. I think the NEC is a little lax on this requirement. I always want to bond the frame of a portable generator to earth. Building service raceway, metal gas pipe, water pipe, fence post. Whatever one can do to establish the shortest ground path possible to mother earth. If nothing else one could use battery jumper cables.

I'm going start a new topic and paste a generator link so as not to hijack this thread.

That's good info Don. After replacing 4 broken locks I have decided to go lockless so that a next time does not happen. Other than the inverter bay and the battery bay I don't keep anything in the bays that is worth the effort and cost of replacing the broken handles. They can have the fishing rods, bait, firewood, and lawn furniture if they need it that badly. Most of the culprits probably can't spell inverter and certainly aren't interested in packing a 120 lb 8D battery some distance and over a fence . So I'm thinking I might be OK there.😀

Congratulations Richard, That is my all time favorite color scheme. Good luck with it. Gary

The door handles are most always available on Ebay. If you are lucky in the color you need. Chrome is a good choice if not. Be aware that picking the Trimark locks and rekeying them is not possible according to the local locksmith. He spent 3 or 4 days playing around with one before conceding defeat.

The symptoms do not sound like back feed or a loose connection. The combinations of symptoms are too varied. I'm guessing that when you disconnect the power you are discharging capacitors with an invalid state in an electronic module which allows the module to act normally for a while. Same procedure in play when disconnecting the power to an electronic device, modem, router,computer, etc for 1 min or so gives capacitors time to discharge and magically fixes the device. What module proves the necessary on conditions before allowing the start process? I don't think its the ECM because i read somewhere that the starter in a Cummins will engage with a defective ECM. No expert on this.

I don't know anything about inverter generators. However I wonder if they use a high resistance ground system which would serve to protect the generator from a fault. If so the system would need to see a path between the neutral and grounded equipment conductor.

Your description was clear Rick.The battery bank plus the inverter would constitute the typical description of a dc/ac UPS. Just nomenclature. I sometimes wonder if people appreciate how dangerous it can be if they step from the RV and become the ground path for whatever reason.

"The inverter is now the main source of power" So as you say the neutral and "equipment grounding conductor" should be bonded together with a bonding jumper. The NEC doesn't address inverters as used in RVs. However the NEC does address separately derived systems which an inverter would fall under. An inverter is referred to as a UPS by electrical engineers.

The wiring harness has multiple grounds crimped to a single wire of the same gauge scattered all over the coach. Many are buried in the harness and nearly impossible to find. When I replaced my gauges I ran individual ground wires to a grounded terminal strip located in the front bay. I also grounded every thing else in the general vicinity in a similar manner. Then with a label printer I labeled each conductor with its terminal number and name which includes both source and load. This is the method which is used in industrial systems which require a higher level of reliability and ease of troubleshooting. When you label a fused conductor it should include the location, fuse number and load description in the same manner. The most fun was with a pair of wire cutters dumping the Monaco crap in the garbage can.

Thanks for your perspective Ray. I was guilty of judging the man without knowing who he really was. It is true that part of being a good cop is enforcing laws they might not agree with. Difficult job for sure.

Wonder if vacuuming might not be a better option so as not to blow crud back into the drain pan?

I spoke to a retired California CHP officer a month or so ago at a Pilot. He said that he was going to take his Dynasty out of state so that he could have it chipped as it was illegal in California. I didn't comment however I thought to myself that here was a man who had spent his career enforcing and certainly harassing citizens with California's oftentimes crazy regulations and the moment he found himself on the other side he changed his stripes.

California has more regulations on the books than any state in the union. Every citizen of Ca. is a criminal of some sort. The authors of Soviet penal code 58, which made any act not explicitly allowed by statute illegal and subject to prosecution, would be so proud.

They like their government bigger and harder in California.

Tom you could determine the rpm by disconnecting a working motor and timing its no load rpm. The 9 A figure I quoted was from the picture Kenneth posted. That would certainly be locked rotor amps. Use that number if you purchase a replacement. Don't confuse that with no load amp draw which is what some vendors publish. I would be careful when measuring rpm because a slight difference in rpm translates to a significant change in travel speed with a rack and pinion gear system. If nothing else you can compare the diameter of the motor housing. These motors are probably series type with brushes so housing diameter is directly proportional to torque as the design is generic. Series motors are not rated in rpm. Don't think they would use a brushless or permanent magnet motor because of expense but could be wrong. If you do find a replacement let us know because I would buy a spare just in case.

Richard how much did it cost? What did the rebuild entail?

Manufacturers rarely reinvent the wheel when they build a product. That unit is just a typical 12 V dc gearmotor used in countless applications. I just looked on Ebay and a replacement can be had for $50.00 You will need to know the rpm and amp draw. 9 amps is a small dc motor at 12 V. I would upgrade so long as the rpm was the same.

Jim go to the front electric bay and pull every fuse. That will prove whether it is a load or not as Tom suggested. If you still have a problem then take a break and order a circuit tracer for $50. The circuit tracer signal will drop off at the fault to ground. Best $50 you can spend if you plan on doing electrical work on these coaches.