Gary Cole

Jim you have a short circuit somewhere. The rheostat is acting as a resistor in series is probably the reason the fuse does not blow immediately. Does the fuse blow immediately when you rotate the switch bypassing the rheostat resistance winding? You can use the rheostat to locate the short. Turn the rheostat on low and check to see which lights are lighting. The lights between the rheostat and short will light however dimly. Any lights on the other side of the short circuit will not because the circuit has returned to ground at that point. Assuming that you do not have a low resistance ground causing the problem. Then it gets more complicated finding the problem.

I've been using the transmission pump to fully flush my transmissions for the last 10 years or so. The process is no different than normal pump operation so I would consider the danger of particles breaking lose myth. All the transmission knows is that the sump is full and is happy 😏. One does want to insure that the sump remain full with new fluid so as not to introduce air into the pump circuit. Though accidentally running the system dry would cause no damage. One leaves approximately 10 quarts of old oil in a 3000 Allison if the transmission is not flushed. I suspect the reason some particles might break away after an oil change might be due to the detergent action of the new fluid and have nothing to due with a flush.

The Carlington switches typically have two lamps. One is part of the general instrumentation lighting circuit and the other indicates when the switch is on. As such the switch lighting load is insignificant whether it is incandescent or LED. I don't know however I would assume the newer switches would be LED. I don't know how installing a relay would affect the resistance heat generated by the light switch as the rheostat is a simple resistance variety and integral to the switch. I dumped the whole mess when my switch failed and installed 3 separate switches for the headlights, marker lights, and instrument panel lights. I like having things separated as one switch failure or short circuit doesn't take other systems down. The Carlington switches are $20.00 and the plug housings with crimp connectors are about $2.00 apiece. One can buy aluminum bezels which makes cutting the hole and installing the switches much easier.

The measured voltage is due to impedance in the neutral conductor as the equipment conductor carrie no load unless there is a fault. When in doubt choose a space as close to the subfeed panel as possible. RV parks located on the coast are the ones to be vary of. The NEC recommends a combined voltage drop of no more than 5 percent feeder and branch circuits. I suppose that is the basis for the max 3 V recommendation.

I eliminated the switch. Replaced it with 2 1pole carling switches such as they match the existing switches. I don't dim the instrument lights. However if I did I would use a 12V/12V solid state controller available on Ebay for $5.00 or so and which is compatible with LED lamps.

The article stated that several engineers inspected the bridge pillar and determined that it had moved 1".

Opportunity for someone needing a left hand mirror.

I've noticed that truckers around here are increasingly using light bars. They are apparently available in brightness up to super nova.I heard that North American cars have inferior headlights due to DOT regulations which date to the Dark Ages.

One thing people considering a dash replacement might consider is that the Beede gauges are no longer available. In addition their accuracy is something less than desirable. For example, at certain fuel levels, the Beede gauge hunted constantly and even after I parked oftentimes the gauge would not return to a correct fuel level. I first suspected the fuel level sensor however when I replaced the gauge with a $65.00 Autometer gauge using the same fuel sensor the problem disappeared.

Rusty can you post a picture of your dash? I'm not familiar with the 2000 Dynasty.

John I purchased the unit from Amazon. Fursam or something like that was the seller. I would make sure the unit is actually full 1080p and supports the AHD camera standard. The first one I purchased was neither. Have to read the fine print on a lot of amazon products these days. Got a brick if anyone needs one. The panels are .125 " aluminum and black walnut veneer. Next time I would use something like tung oil rather than urethane on the veneer. I'm using the 4th and 5th cameras in a high low configuration at the right rear such that I can accurately judge right lane merging distance with the lower camera and see a long view of a street I might have to back into with the high camera. That can be a dangerous procedure at times.

I'm in the process of replacing my Beede gauges with individual gauges. Never liked the combined gauges and poor accuracy. I also wanted to make room for a 10" 1080p quad camera system and a 10" double din stereo system which gives me a 5th 1080p camera. Freed up a lot of instrument panel space with lots of holes left to fill with cool stuff.😀 Still a work in progress. Using the original speedometer and rpm gauge for now until I make a decision. I bottom hinged the fabricated aluminum panels so that they can be opened to provide easy access. Took a lot of cleanup and rerouting of the rats nest to accomplish that. Anyone that has ever looked under a Monaco dash knows what I'm talking about. Might go with GPS speedometer. Hopefully It's far enough along so that I can finish it when I go south with the help of a friendly UPS driver. Does anyone know where the coolant temp sensor is located and if the ECM and gauge shares the same output or the gauge uses a separate sensor. No luck on the Cummins site. Might not know where to look. The Beede gauge naturally uses a sensor with a non standard Ohm range. The photo is of a sensor located on top of the engine which I'm guessing is a high temp sensor as it is powered and seems to be NO at 45 F. The temp sensor to the gauge reads 90 ohms at 45 F and is not affected when I unplug the wires going to the mentioned sensor.

On the topic of mirrors. If you snag a Ramco mirror on something and break it off that can be fixed by filing the two faces flat and tapping both pieces with a 3/8 pipe tap. I used a stainless steel high pressure nipple to join the pieces however I suppose any non corrosive metal would suffice.

Ramco has a how to mirror replacement guide on their website with pictures. Could be used to fix a loose mirror. I did doubled up on VHB tape which is used to secure the mirror to the base.

I purchased a very low mileage 1996 300ZX, last year sold in US, at auction with what had clearly been multiple attempts to repair a non operating AC. When I called the local Nissan dealer to inquire about repairing the system he asked if I had a blank check.

Thanks for the information Bob. Very interesting. Learned a lot. The only question I have is how long the oil will last on a seal under normal conditions. Based on, my understandably limited experience with classic cars and cars in storage, it seems to be a very long time.

"nanny poka dot bowtie engineers" I installed a compressor cut out switch such that I, the rightful owner, can decide when I want to run the AC compressor. There are a lot of AC problems discussed on this forum , many of which I suspect are due to the stupid system running most all of the time. Much of that time is a complete waste of machinery and whatever fuel 3-5 hp consumes. One could collect the amount of condensate produced by the system in a dixie cup on a dry day in the West Ford decided that I wasn't smart enough to know when to use my fog lights with my high beams. So they disable the lights when using high beams. Fog lights help define the edge of a narrow dusty or muddy road when using high beams. Lot of muddy roads in Oregon. I thought everyone knew that. Fixed that little problem also. I have something for them right here.

All of this talk about using unattended portable space heaters is scary. Lot of recalls over the years. Ask your local fire chief what he thinks about space heaters. You are trusting that a 7 cent Chinese thermal snap switch will work in the event of an air circulation failure or that it is even within 100 degrees of its claimed rating. There are space heaters available with a low heat density such that they do not require air circulation. A little more expensive but much safer. I do charge both battery sets from the front bay with a jumper so long as the standing voltage of the chassis and house batteries is very nearly the same. When that voltage starts to drift due to age and use factors I use individual chargers. After experiencing a near battery event which my inverter did not detect, battery temp reached 170 degrees and was still climbing when I noticed the heat when walking around the vehicle, I decided that a small 115 V 10A 3 stage charger is probably a safer option when the coach is in dry dock. Also be aware that some advertised 3 stage chargers are fake. I now verify a new chargers amp and voltage output through a complete charge before I leave it unattended on a battery which I have grown fond of.

Wonder what the expected service life of a typically compressed spring of that type is? Could age be a factor?

I forgot about the Jordan Cove natural gas pipeline project right here in Oregon. After 10 years of legal litigation in both state and Fed courts Jordan Cove obtained a permit only to have it revoked within 10 days by the new administration. They were invited to spend another 10 years in court if they didn't like it. Natural gas is burned off at the well site in North America and Mexico because there is limited pipeline capacity. Jordan Cove is now looking at transporting LNG using bunker oil fired tankers.

One has to wonder how Cummins is able to even come up with a strategy in North America considering that energy policy in this country appears to be formulated by aging hippies suffering from the affects of long term LSD use. I am not aware of any natural gas project which has survived court challenges in this country in the last several years. Despite natural gas being the cleanest intermediate option during the next 20 years until technology has a chance to catch up with the demands of fools. Perhaps we could fit our RVs with large three masted sails? I'm only surprised that some DC apparatchik hasn't suggested it.

Deliberate intent to defraud or mislead is to the best of my experience the crux of the matter regarding statutes. One could reset their odometer to zero every day so long as there was no intent to deceive or mislead, for example, a purchaser, tax agency, or insurance company. Otherwise it would be illegal for an individual to purchase a new speedometer and install it. That day is coming in certain blue states like CA.

I like the idea of installing a row of switches. In addition you might give some consideration to installing remote control relays in parallel with the switches so as to have manual override capability. The relay units are available with up to 12 channels with both digital and analog outputs if needed for about $50.00. You could use either RF control or bluetooth. Bluetooth offers device pairing along with a lot of control and programming options including using a cell phone app. You can use multiple RF remotes so long as you match frequencies. Multiple remotes would offer control in any location in your RV. I've installed 3 of these systems including one which I use to control both the lighting, air filtration and dust control system in my shop. I use the analog outputs to control motor speed using VFDs however with compatible driver matching the outputs could be used to dim LED lights. I would do whatever it took to rid myself of such a system which seems to delight in taking hostages at the least opportune moment. Good luck

Congratulations. Sounds like you had a lot of fun. I've been charging my R-12 and R-22 systems with purified propane for a number of years. Much cheaper and lower head pressures as a benefit. Interesting politics behind as to why propane is largely banned as a refrigerant in the USA and not other countries. Has to something to due with Dupont, expiring patents, and of course, campaign money.

Might try disconnecting all 12V power for at least a minute. The reason that works so very often with electronic components is that over time capacitors, little batteries, can and usually do acquire a charge and remain at that incorrect state due to numerous reasons including accumulated software glitches. Disconnecting the power gives all capacitors sufficient time to discharge so that the system can restart from the boot command. Might be a long shot but it costs nothing to try. That is the reason tech support most always ask you if you have tried unplugging your tv or your blue tooth toaster first.