Gary Cole

Pull into the next Harbor Freight and buy a $10.00 gauge in order to verify that you even have a problem. Duct tape would hold 25 lbs of pressure for a while because of a fitting mismatch. If you don't have a problem they might even give you a refund if you haven't lost the receipt. I'd try it. 😄

You must have more than zero boost or your engine would be very sickly. Remove your closet engine cover and check the line which goes to your pressure gauge. Mine had not been securely fastened and developed a leak at the fitting and a deep abrasion from contact with metal. Probably would have eventually come completely off if I had not of noticed it during an inspection

I was wondering the same. If it failed at the extreme of open or closed then it would be detectable because you would have to much or no differential pressure. I never have however there is a bench method of testing to verify that the valve is moving. A valve which worked sometimes or out of range would be another matter. You aren't going to know until you have gone thru the entire process of charging the system and then discover there is a problem. I'm thinking now that it might be good practice to just replace the valve on older systems. Maybe Ivan will tell us why he replaced his.

Your shocks take the load of the axle. I used to do it quite often however now I'm having second thoughts about the practice.

Filters become more efficient after some time because the fluid or gas flow is increasingly restricted, that is filtered, the purpose of the filter. The process is not completely understood however particles seem to wind up in higher flow regions, passing thru the larger holes in the filter and blocking them . Also changing light viscosity lubricants too often is detrimental because the natural shearing action of the mechanical processes homogenizes, that is, reduces the long chain molecules into short chains. Which is a necessary characteristic of a good lubricant. Ford Motor Co did a study some years ago which demonstrated that oil achieved it's best lubricating property, pre synthetic, after 3000 miles. One reason that synthetic lubricants are superior is that they have more uniformly short molecules and fewer abrasive long chain molecules.

People should give some thought to having their RV towed to a safe place and then call a mobile mechanic or a known shop rather than throwing yourself at the mercy of a questionable or unknown shop. You can negotiate a reasonable tow charge if you are not stranded on the highway or blocking traffic. Once you pull onto a shops property and give them the keys you have granted them nearly complete control of your rig due to the power vested in them thru mechanic lien laws. They don't care if you threaten to sue them. The courts don't care if you feel that you were overcharged or cheated as they are not in the business of setting rates or debating the finer points of the mechanics skills or lack thereof. In the case of a dispute the only certain way you can regain possession of your rig is to pay the bill and argue about it later. Paying a lawyer,,, no guarantee and you'll think the mechanic's bill wasn't as bad as you thought

It looks like the truck passed roughly 20 stripes in 8 seconds. If my count was reasonably accurate and using the standard stripe length and spacing then the trucker was traveling at something more than 65 mph. The motorhome appeared to be traveling well over the speed limit. As others have pointed out the sharp passing maneuver might have worked in a car but clearly did not in the heavier vehicle. Did anyone else notice that alligator in the next video?

20 cc is a very small compressor. It does run at higher rpm however still not fast enough to do big boy work. The law of diminishing returns as to higher rpm applies here. Our compressors are probably 100 cc or so.

Paul those trucks are light years distant from the 1949 LJ Mack which I learned to drive on the farm. Two stick 10 speed, clutch so heavy it pushed a skinny kid like me out of the seat, power steering was huge steering wheel with a spinner, heater was straight exhaust pipe 1" from thick steel firewall, wooden dip stick for fuel gauge, 180 HP and black smoke into the next county, 50 mph downhill.

That is true. However companies with a brand to protect are much more diligent in their efforts to insure quality when using off shore manufactured components. A product coming out of an offshore factory run by Intel, Ford, Cummins, for example, does not resemble a knock off produced by "Asian photocopy criminals" working out of slum factories with little more than a post office box for an address and selling on Amazon and Ebay. Intel for example typically rejected 3 times as many chips produced in Chinese factories as its American counterparts so that those chips did not make it into their supply chain. The last I heard the problem was getting worse and not better. Cummins and others do not risk warranty claims on expensive engines by using the junk filters and electronics that are available online to anyone who wants to

Grant I should have mentioned that you can also use a rubber tipped air nozzle if nothing else is available. Keep your fingers out of the way. Sometimes it happens fast.

You can retract the cylinder using compressed air. Some cylinders use a standard tapered pipe thread. Others use a straight thread boss with an o-ring. Either way its a common fitting which is readily available for a few $ which you can adapt to your air hose.

I've been thinking about going to a 5" exhaust from the turbo with a free flow muffler. That short elbow looks very restrictive. Pittsburg Power has a good website with a lot of information about how opening up the intake and exhaust on newer smog diesels can have substantial benefits including horsepower increase ,reduced turbo heat, and lower top engine heat. They specialize in upgrading new trucks with better systems. Our RV's certainly need help there. No one wasted any money on the air intake or exhaust system. The resulting increase in turbo boost from a freer flowing system also decreases engine heat. I did not know that until I started researching their website. Seems counter intuitive. They have been around for a very long time. They made their reputation tuning older mechanical injector diesels such as the 855 NT Cummins to produce a reliable 780 hp to the ground. Owner operators loved them.

I'm wondering what is the difference between rebuilt and remanufactured? If the shop doesn't rewind the alternator how do they determine the condition of the windings? I'm guessing that they megger the windings however a passing megger test doesn't predict the future. I'm thinking given the difficulty of accessing and replacing any component on our RV's, particularly the rear radiator models, is saving a couple hundred over new a good gamble? Not sure I would want to pay a shop in case I lost the wager on rebuilt/repaired. Or even worse, do it myself while everyone else is gathered around the barbecue holding their beer, anything but that one, and offering their advice.

Bill there is clearly a crack at the area of the leak which is probably going to continue down the length of the manifold. Might drill a small hole at the end of the crack in order to stop the spread and try the JB weld as Jim suggests. Nothing to lose for a small effort and a lot to gain if it worked.

Tom you explain things quite well and oftentimes in an entertaining way. That is a bonus for all on the forum. Particularly for those who might not have a background in the topics. Which includes myself on pretty much every topic. I've been coasting along for 50,000 miles without any problems,,, none. So I haven't had to learn anything. However, now I live in fear that my luck will change, not if but when. Just thought for those persons KVA might be easier to understand what occurs in the relationship including how power factor comes into play with those loads which have an inductive element.

? The current carried by each conductor is still an average RMS of 50 amps, because peak amplitudes of the sine waves, are 180 degrees apart in single phase. Tom it might be more understandable for some to use KVA, (ignoring power factor for simplicity) in order to compare the actual energy available vs voltage.

Looks like there is a low sump temp code as mentioned in the post. Indicates that the temp sensor is out of low range indicating a faulty sensor. Nothing to do with fluid level

"Is this a Chinese filter?" Yes it is. Here is the main office. I looked them up after they came up on Amazon constantly. Companies pay Amazon for top search ranking so that doesn't count for anything. I'm not sure that they solely specialize in the design and manufacture of air filters. They also have a very nice line of rubber hose and chrome lug nuts. Chinese filters in my opinion are simply to risky even if they were offered for free. After having to rebuild 6 carburetors due to rust on a vintage motorcycle a few years ago I cut the fuel filter in half and discovered that it was a fake, made in Russia of all places. Bought it from a large regional auto parts chain. They offered me another filter. The decision to rebuild the carbs myself was one of those "hold my beer moments". Never do that again.

In the electrical industry SCT describes a straight blade connector in a NEMA classification as opposed to twist lock or pin and sleeve for example. I really don't know if it means the same in automotive terminology.

The downside to not having a working AC is that the compressors dehumidifying function in defrost mode is not available and can result in that annoying condensed water vapor on the inside of the windshield.

Harry when did you notice that your tag axle was missing?😁 Wiring harnesses are largely generic by necessity. You people with shorter coaches wondering why you have so much extra length coiled up. Cause they long enough to fit a 45 footer and have conductors for every available, sometimes fanciful, salesman's option.

I've often wondered what was going through a Chinese astronaut's mind just before liftoff.

data bus? Frank do you know which ECM pin # provides output to the dash gauge? I don't see it on my schematic. My original dash gauge was analog (12V + with variable resistance sensor providing a ground path) and not digital. I never figured out where the gauge got its non- standard resistance ground from when I replaced it. There is another sensor on the front of my engine however I cannot access it as it is completely buried under engine accessories. So I installed a new sensor which matched the new gauge at cylinder #6 when I replaced it. Bill I jumped the conductors at my sensor to verify that it is indeed the high temp light at the dash. It is a N.O. switch as someone suggested.

Bill I do have a dash indicator. It appears that this sensor is Monaco specific.