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Myron, That photo was taken today and yes I am on 30 amp service. Once I switched the wires as mentioned in the post above, the Front A/C worked great! We were so excited that we will have both A/C's working for our trip tomorrow. You did lead me down a path alright, ....and it was the perfect path to fix the problem. The thought of checking the Intellitec had not even occurred to me, so Thank You for educating me on how the load shedding works. I may replace the board when I get back if they are available, but for this trip it looks like our problem is solved thanks to you. Carey

Yes Jim, I simply moved the pair that was on the position #1 terminals to the corresponding position #2 terminals and those that were on #2 to #1. All I needed was a good relay to run my A/C power through. Since I don't use the dedicated circuit for the Washer/Dryer, it doesn't make any difference if that circuit doesn't work. Thanks,Carey

As Reese Witherspoon said in the movie "Legally Blonde" ....."WE DID IT!!!!" Thanks to everyone for your help, but a special HUGE THANK YOU to Myron for being spot-on with the solution! I would not have even thought about the Intellitec Load Shedding Device as being the problem! Myron, I thank you, MY WIFE THANKS YOU, and my two grandsons thank you. You are THE MAN! Our trip will be SO much more enjoyable now! One more testimonial as to how great this forum is! You guys sharing your time and knowledge with the rest of us is appreciated SO much! Carey (aka "one happy camper")

Okay, I did some more thinking (that could be dangerous! 😉) about my post above. I might be over-thinking this. If I simply switch the two wires on the #1 terminals to the #2 terminals, and vice versa, I really haven't changed the amount of current draw off either side of the main breaker, have I? All I would be doing is using a different set of relay an C.B. The only thing that would be different is that the front A/C would shed off before the W/D, which wouldn't make any difference since I don't have a W/D. Please confirm what I just typed above. I think my mind is getting "mushy"! Thank you so much! Carey Jim, please tell me what you think about my last post. Does it make sense to you? If it does, then I can maintain the load management. Thanks, Carey My board is not bad, it is just the #1 relay. The rest of them work fine as far as I can see.

OK Myron, here are my findings: 1. No line voltage (120v) at the A/C unit 2. Front A/C breaker is good 3. When I check the voltage between neutral and each of the "RLY" (relay, I'm assuming) terminals and each of the "C.B." (assuming circuit breaker) terminals, all of the #2, #3 and #4 terminals (both RLY and C.B.) show 120v. When I check the #1 terminals with the 20 AMP Front A/C breaker ON, I get 120v at the C.B.1 terminal and 0.5v at the RLY 1 terminal. With the 20 AMP Front A/C breaker OFF, I get 41v at the C.B.1 terminal and the same 0.5v at the RLY 1 terminal. So, I am very hopeful that with your EXCELLENT knowledge and MUCH appreciated help we may have found the problem. Now, if you would, please help me further by recommending the best way to get around this problem. NOTE: I do not nave a Washer/Dryer My first thought was to simply switch the wires from the #2 (W/D) terminals to the #1 (Front A/C) terminals since I don't have the W/D and really never use that dedicated W/D receptacle. The only problem that I see with that is that looking at the 120v breakers is that it would cause both A/C's to draw off the same leg of the 50 amp main breaker. So, I see two options: 1) switch the #4 wires (water htr) with the #1 wires (frt A/C) and just use propane alone to heat water, or 2) see if there is enough wire to switch the positions of the water heater breaker and the W/D breaker thereby keeping the loads balanced (well, at least not having both A/C's on the same leg). Then I could just go back to switching the #1 and #2 terminal wires. Please advise if you think this (option 2 above) would work or if you would recommend something else. Thank you so much for your help! Carey Thank you, Ward I had read something about a PTCR and I was wondering if that might be what that was. I noted that the one from the rear air unit had the blue wire on top and the red wire on the bottom. The one out of the front unit was opposite. So, I'm guessing that polarity is not a factor on the PTCR??? Thanks, Carey Jim, These units do not have a separate thermostat, so I'm guessing that it is built into the unit itself. You control it with a remote. Thanks, Carey

Thank you Myron for responding. My plan for this morning was to do what you said and start at the breaker panel and then see if there was 115 volts at the unit itself. What I had not even thought about is the Intellitec load shedding device. If I have power at the A/C unit, that would indicate the the Intellitec is working, right? The only other draw that I have on is the fridge @ 5 amps. I will post my post my findings on the above in a little while. Thank you for your help! Carey

Murphy's Law at work! We leave Monday morning with the Grandsons to go see the Ark and Creation Museum. I turned the front A/C on this morning to cool the coach down (rear was off) and about mid-day we lost power for about 2 seconds (literally). Off and right back on again. Went by to check some things on the motorhome and noticed that the A/C was not running. First checked the breaker in the bedroom, it was on. The A/C's are both Carrier Low profile units that operate with remotes. When I turn it on and switch modes I can hear the little relays closing, there is just no fan. I switched the main capacitor and another small electrical device (picture below) from the rear air into the front air. Didn't help at all. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks, guys. Carey

Now that my grandsons are out of school for the summer, the soccer season is over, etc., they once again have time to print more parts. If anyone would still like to order parts, my son and daughter-in-law have set up an email address to contact them directly - 2b3dprints@gmail.com. Carey ReplyForward

Andrew, sorry it took me so long to respond to your question. I was out of the country for a week. I did replace the hose from the coolant tank to the block. Mine had a hose with two layers of rubber sandwiching a steel coil. Here is a link to what I used: https://nuwavemarine.com/boat-supplies-accessories/paint-maintenance/hardware/plumbing/marine-hose-clamps/engine-hose/trident-hose-seaflex-hardwall-1-1-2-x-12-5-25011241b/#top It was kind of expensive, but since that is what was on there, I bit the bullet. Carey

I did some through the rear hatch under the bed, but most from under the coach. I would definitely NOT want to pull the radiator assembly. Carey

Andrew, I took my old hoses off and took them with me. We looked through probably 50 hoses to match up the diameters and the bends. Yeah, a listing would have been nice, but that is a "pipe dream" (pardon the pun). It is not like asking for the upper and lower radiator hoses for a 2018 F-150. If memory serves me, there was a shorter hose that was on the driver's side that was almost straight, but had a slight offset. One end of one of those NAPA hoses has that slight offset and worked perfectly. My hard piping was in great shape. My coach only had 18K miles at the time. I don't think that I replaced the little bypass hoses. As for my heater hoses, they looked really good. I would have changed them out too but, when I looked at what a huge job that would have been, I decided to take my chances and just carry a few feet of heater hose, a couple of double ended barb fittings, and some good quality hose clamps. I figured that if I ever did spring a leak in one of the heater hoses, I could just cut the bad spot out and "patch" it with a piece of new hose. I know it would have been better to replace it all but, for now I just wasn't ready to tackle that one. I flushed my cooling system with Evapo-rust Thermocure and distilled water. Drove the coach about 100 miles with that in it, then drained and did did 3 more complete flushes with distilled water. It did cost a little more using only distilled water to flush, but I just didn't want tap water in the system. I don't think you ever get it all out when you drain it. I pulled one of the hoses off of the trans oil cooler to drain. Don't forget to open your heater valve (full hot setting) when you drain, flush and refill. Carey

Hey Andrew and Brad, I might be able to save you a little leg work on the radiator hoses and the belts. I just replaced all of them on my 2006 Cayman 37 PBD last year. (300 ISB) I have the Modine transmission oil cooler that looks like a big box with openings on the ends. I was able to replace all of the hoses with just these 3 hoses from NAPA. Seems like I had to cut at least 2 of them to make all of the (5?) hoses that I needed. They worked out perfectly. I don't think that I even had to use the little, short, straight hose. Just in case you are replacing belts as well, here's what worked out well for my main Serpentine and A/C belts. By the way, if you can get the A/C belt over that big, honkin" fan blade, you are a better man than I am! I removed the 4 bolts that hold the fan on and slipped the belt in between the fan and pulley. Good Luck! I hope this helps you guys. Carey

Thanks Tom! I'll study real hard and be ready for the quiz in the morning! Seriously, thank you for taking the time to explain all that. Carey

Quote Hi Stephen, In my 2006 Cayman 37 PBD, the reservoir for the hydraulic jacks is located in the generator access on the passenger side. It is attached to the pump and valve assembly. I use Dexron III in mine. Mine drove me nuts on a return trip from New Mexico and Colorado last year. I stopped and added fluid up to the "mark" on the dipstick (attached to cap). The line on the dipstick looked like someone scratched it into the dipstick. It continued beeping on and off until I got tired of it and just pulled the fuse. When I got home, I couldn't find a reason for the beeping, so I just added more fluid, and it stopped beeping. Carey

Hi Tom, I have a few questions regarding your post above: 1. When you talk about 3 draw downs, I am assuming that you start with fully charged batteries and then apply a load to bring the battery voltage down. Do you have a recommendation of how much load (amps) to apply? 2. At what voltage do you remove the load and do you allow the batteries to rest before recharging? How many amps of charging current do you recommend to bring them back up? I am assuming that you perform the discharge/recharge cycle two more times. Any rest time between the 3 discharge/recharge cycles? 3. When is the best time to check the SG and add more electrolyte if needed? Is one battery electrolyte just as good as the next? 4. When you test the SG, do you draw the electrolyte up and squirt it back into the cell 2 or 3 times to mix it up before you take a reading? Thank you, Carey

Andrew, I just happen to have a picture of what Dick is referring to. Thought it might help. Carey Sorry, the two pictures above are identical. The first time that I uploaded it, I got a notice saying that the upload failed, so I uploaded it again. Apparently, the first attempt did work. 😕 Probably my "less than ideal" internet service out in the boonies. Carey

Hi Bill, I have 2 questions. 1. Are you currently getting a reading on your coolant/engine temp gauge on the dash? 2. Is there a similar looking sensor (with wires attached) within 4-5 inches of your thermostat housing? If the answer is "yes" to either question, I would be inclined to go with what Gary said above. Just my "2 cents" Carey

Hi Adam, I have a 2006 Monaco Cayman 37 PBD, which I believe is the sister coach to your HR Neptune. The only thing is, that your coach being 4 year models newer, the settings could be different. So, take this data as reference only. My chassis is also the RR4R and I recently installed the Source Engineering Ride Kit and Trailing Arms. Everything fit perfectly and the ride heights were correct with no adjustment. I really don't think that the air bags are going to control the ride height, as that is taken care of by the air actuator valve adjustment.

John, I appreciate the offer to do the "contest", however I think we would rather just take the opportunity to thank everyone who ordered covers and had a part in making this little business venture successful, while fulfilling a need for our fellow Monacoers. I really don't know the exact number of covers that were sent out, but It was in the hundreds. I would also like to express a special "Thank You" to the moderators of this great forum for allowing the grandsons the chance to learn some valuable lessons about running a business. Thank you all, Carey

Duey, I am sorry, but I was informed this morning that they are not taking any more new orders. Carey John, I am sorry, but I was informed this morning that they are not taking any more new orders. Carey

Hi Bob, I sent you a PM.

Gary, check your Personal Messages. Carey

Jeff, can you send me a PM with your mailing address and how many covers you want for each side? Thanks, Carey

Jim, I'm glad that you were able to surmount the issue of 80 year old fingers with a touch of "brains over brawn". Thank you for posting your thoughts on the forum. Henry and Levi will now get the chance to read your kind words for themselves. I hope that you have a safe trip to Oklahoma this weekend and that all goes well. Carey

Vito, I was under the impression that the RR stood for "Raised Rail" and the 10 in this case indicated how many air springs (bags) the chassis had. My Cayman has the RR4 chassis and only has 4 air springs, and it seems that I remember reading that there was also an R4 chassis, in which I would assume that the main structural rails that run front to back were not set as high in the construction of that chassis. I'm certainly no expert in this topic, but I would like to know if my assumption is correct. Thanks, Carey