1nolaguy

Yep. That sounds like it. Makes sense as I gave that no thought when I reinstalled them.

Found them. Thanks.

Checked the floor and it is solid. The base (black part attached to the floor) does not move. It is the bowl section above the new gasket that rocks when weight is applied.

Where did you order the replacement from? Ricadoo, please post the Amazon URL. I have tried several searches but am apparently searching by the wrong subject.

Recently the ball at the bottom of our Sealand foot actuated toilet started to leak draining all the water in the bowl to the black tank. I got the proper Dometic replacement kit for our unit and installed it according to packaging instructions. All appeared to work properly and I completed the re-assembly. All was good until someone sat on the toilet causing it to leak significantly. Upon investigation the top of the toilet is rocking forward where connected to the base when sat on causing the seal to break and the contents of the bowl to leak out. I have re-set the seal and top, and tightened the ss band clamp as tight as possible but the problem persists. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank goodness we have a 2nd toilet in our rig.

The red light next to the electric on-off switch at the LP tank (found in the LP tank bay) is burned out. While I can rotate the switch clock wise for on and counter clock wise for off it would be nice to have the light work correctly. This light appears sealed as in there is no bulb to be replaced. Has anyone had to replace this and if so where did you get a replacement?

I believe that is Advanced RV. My understanding is they specialize in van/classB and only sell with instalation.

Thanks so much Jerry. Our 2nd a/c in the living area is giving up the ghost. I plan to order 2 on Monday AM. We have split ducts (down each side, about 18" on each side of plenum so that should be easier. Also, existing Dometic drain on roof so again not an issue. Disappointing about cs. Dometic is responsive but in my experience the answers are often nebulous at best. Since we seldom if ever use the furnaces (we have two), I may just leave the existing thermostat, at least for now, if it will still control them. Questions: You said you did not use the ceiling grills because of your setup. Can you tell if these registers have an air dump feature for quick cool down? this is a question I have not been able to find a clear answer to this. Also, what size batteries do the remote take or are they rechargeable with a usb?

Thanks. As noted before all (almost) PLASTIC. Really disappointed in what has happened to Dometic products for the price they charge.

Thanks for the part list Dr4Film. Unfortunately the photo does not match my toilet. Checking the Monaco Build sheet it is a Dometic Sealand 510 plus. Manually operated with a foot flush mechanism. I found a parts list on line but it only a picture without a legend. The closets valve assembly I can find is all plastic. If possible I would rather fix the original. The all plastic unit looks like it would not last more than a few months.

I recently replaced the ball valve gasket set on out Sealand toilet as the gasket had worn and was leaking. The hardest part was getting on the floor and getting back up. That unfortunately lead to a water leak at the flush valve. When left alone it does not leak but when running water to flush or fill the bowl it leaks (see photo). Does anyone know if the valve seal can be replaced or if the whole valve needs to be changed? Either way do any of you have the part number(s)?

Thanks Jerry. I look forward to your follow up on the thermostat. Being in LV I can understand you letting cooling capacity trumping height. I am the same as we are in south Louisiana and cooling and de-humidifying capabilities trump about everything. lol

$140 per unit for labor seems reasonable. Do you mind saying where you are? I would like that for comparison purposes. I am currently in central Florida and was planning to delay until I get back to Louisiana to have my son-in-law help with the install, but for that type of cost I would consider having it do sooner. Also, would you mind posting the brand/model of the thermostat for the heaters. We have two LP heater (rarely used) and replacing the existing 5 button therm with a simpler control just for them makes sense. I believe I have decided now to certainly go with the Houghton from RecPro, just weighing the medium vs low profile. We are currently 12' 6" with the duo-therms so the 3500 models should only bring us up to about 12' 9" in height, which I do not think will be an issue. We recently purchased a Garmin RV890 so when programed for the new height that should keep us out of any potential trouble.

Thanks Scotty. I'll check it out.

Jerry G, I am looking at these as well. Here is what my research has yielded to date: Houghton is an Australian company. The units are apparently made by Finch of Australia LTD. I am sure the components, at least in part, are sourced in China or other Asian countries. The units were developed in Au based on the climatic requirement for caravaners in that country. This includes de-humidification as well as cooling and moderate heating in the form of a HP. Advanced RV, a Class B/van modifier offer these products installed while RecPro is installed by third party or DIY. Advanced RV has a real detailed Youtube on the 3400 model (low profile 13.5K heat pump). I have written to Finch AU requesting some additional spec info not available on line. If I hear back I will post results. As for Furrion I liked them initially until I read in their specs that the unit dB is stated as "<80dB'. Since noise is a priority issue for me and 80 dB is loud, I took them off the list.

For those who have installed a Samsung 18MF or similar in an early 2000-2005 model DP, like the DST, where the previous Norcold 1200 is mounted above a furnace return that needs to be modified. If you have pics or can describe the modifications made to the Furnace return please post any details. I am looking at making this modification to my 2005 DST and am struggling to figure how best to do this. Note: in our rig the existing fridge is not on a slide and is mounted over a furnace return.

Thanks all. Frank Beragamo you were the winner. When I could not pull the bulbs without extensive work (another story for another time). I went back and did my steps all over. turned out I had turned the head light switch too far and that had turned on these lights bypassing the push button switch. Did not know that was a thing. Shows we learn something different every day.

Tried that but no luck. Will keep looking. Thanks.

Was not sure where to post this. Have never experienced this before. We moved to a new location today and as the sun went down I noticed these map lights were on. Normally on and off for them is by pushing up. The lights are located over the front tv above the dash. Now the lights are on and remain on. If one pushes up the light goes out for a second and then on again. I have checked all the front or console switches, the key positions, etc and nothing seams to turn them off. We are on shore power so that is not an issue for now but the halogen light fixtures are very hot. Any suggestions?

Our thoughts and prayers are with you throught this ordeal. We will be in Central FL through April 15. If we can be of any assistance let us know. BTW-we are still at Lazydays until Thur. AM.

Where did you find a replacement light?

We should arrive at earliest checking also, coming from Wauchula, Fl.

FYI - motor oils are heavily regulated by the feds so look at the specs on the containers and compare. Often different brands come from the same place. I used to work for a Shell packaging facility where motor oil and grease were blended and packaged. We did mostly 5 gal. pails and 55 gal drums (for commercial sale and application). You would regularly see Shell containers followed by off brands move seamlessly down the line without change. Both brands would have the same specs (ie: 10W30). That said, the major difference between big brands and off brands is often just that the big brand may have additional additives or branded additives such as Textron addatives in Chevron products. Mostly the difference in cost is because of marketing.

If there is no power at all going to slide motor. Check ceiling of cargo bays below slide. I had a similar issue last year. Turned out I had a broken connection near one of the basement light fixtures. Did a temp splice until I could do a permeate repair, but the slide worked fine as soon as I made a proper connection.

Frank, I guess this is why you should regularly do a detailed inspection. After buying and installing the horizontal 3/8"x1" bolts I realized these are not actually attached to anything. Not sure what purpose the serve other than possibly during install or removal. Oh well, they now all have shiny new ss bolts. On the other hand I did realize the vertical 3.5" bolts are for adjustment of the slide pitch horizontally. Most of these were not under pressure (tight against the flat plate of the slide). I snugged them all up and one is missing so I will be replacing that, just in case. Note: turning the vertical screw tight against the plate and then 3/4 of a turn was enough to raise the slide on that side so that I'd would not catch on the basement door say more. It was not enough to level the slide but I want to wait until I am in a better , more level site before making additional adjustments.