1nolaguy

Chuck, happy Independence Day. I did not read all of the posts above but please keep in mind that switches of this vintage are analogue and mechanical. Most modern electronics are digital. My personal experience, after trying to get this to work was to replace the crank analogue antenna on the roof with a King Omni Directional and used a splitter to tie the coach cables together. Since the TVs were previously with digital flat screens now the OTA and cable work great. Each TV has its own DVD and a streaming stick. It was a much simpler solution, does not require any switching, and was relatively inexpensive.

That is a dangerous combination. The 18 ga wiring(12v) is wY too small for the current requirements to run your 2 way fridge on electric. Also the inverter is way undersized. You would need one rated at 1500w continuous to support the fridge but you will need 2 ga or larger wire between the batteries and the fridge. Go get propane if you are not on shore power.

When we bought our 2005 Safari with a cat deisel engine and o an deisel 8k Gen. Aftee having all the fluids tested we opted to have both coolant systems flushed and the coolant replaced with Peak OAT 1,000,000 mile coolant. Not that I plan to put on that kind of mileage/time on either but it made sense to keep the coolant the same.

Did not know that Scotty. How do I find out if my windshield is double pane? 2005 Safari Cheetah. BTW- I do not keep the reflex flysh against the glass. There is about 2"-3" air gap. I have been using it since last spring without issue, but then my windows may be single pane.

A fast, easy and relatively cheap fix is to place Reflectix in the front windshield. Last summer I was boiling in the RV even with the front drapes closed. I went to Home Depot and picked up a roll of Reflectix (mirrored form of bubble wrap found in the insulation area of HD or Lowes). Cut it to length and put it on the window using the drapes to hold it in place. Temp in the area dropped 20 degrees in s matter of minutes. Granted it blocks out light and your view but in this heat I would rather be comfortable. see https://www.homedepot.com/collection/building-materials/everbilt-radiant-barrier-insulation/Family-319933600

As CAT Stephen saidIf you are having to replace an A/C anyway, it is worth the upgrade but to do it just to gain the added BTU is not worth the expense.IMO

I you search the posts you will find many concerning replacing A/Cs with lots of options and suggestions. As to the specific question of going from 13.5 to 15K btu, this is often done, especially by those that camp often in southern states in the summer. Fit is generally not an issue. Make sure you a/c wiring can handle the energy demand of the larger unit you are considering. Usually if your current A/C system is protected by a 15 amp circuit breaker and the new A/C is designed to also be protected by a 15 amp circuit breaker you are OK for the switch.

Grampy OG, Dr4film and I used too different approaches to address the same issue (see above posts). Both are cost effective options especially if you can do the work yourself. Dr4Film's approach is especially good if you are looking to recoat your entire roof anyway. My approach was used as a stop gap measur as I will probably not redo the roof until next year. BOTH approaches require proper perpetration of the surface to be refinished. This includes sanding until the surface is smooth without any signs of pealing and then cleaning the surface before treating.

I had a more severe but similar situation on our 2005 Safari Cheetah. After several inquiries resulted in prices well out of our reach I did the following: using 220 grit paper on my 5" RO pad sander I took down the clear coat and some spots through the paint as well. I masked off to a sharp line at the belt line and where the cap meets the roof tape. I cleaned the entire sanded surface with acetone followed by soapy water and then after rinse an air dry I went over it with alcohol. After air drying again I sprayed with rustled in a color that was almost a dead match for the coach color. Next day light sand with 320 grit and clean with alcohol. Dry and spray again in opposite direction. Next day 600 wet sand, clean, dry and spray clear coat. Did this for 3 coats. Do not use polyurethane to clear coat as it will yellow in time. While the job would probably have better result in a paint booth the job is not noticeable different from the rest of the coach and cost less than $100. YMMV

same here. Those bags are quite thick with layers of thread reinforcing. Similar to a tire.

My question is concerning the two outlets behind the fridge. The one that is connected to the inverter, is this wired through the GFCI in the bath? I ask this because therr were two 12g - 120v leads that came from my original inverter (Xantrex Freedom 2500). It appears that all 120v outlets use pass through power via the inverter unless they are wired through the main 120 breaker panel such as the washer/dryer, three outlets in the bedroom, A/C's, etc. From the two leads one feed directly to the microwave/convection oven. ALL of the other 120v outlets appear to go through the bath GFCI (which seems ridiculous in its own right but that is another subject). Ours is a 2005 Safari Cheetah. If it is not throught the GFCI is it tied to the same lead as the microwave?

My 2005 Safari Cheetah came with the same type switching system. These are analog switching by way of mechanical contact. They are no longer produced or supported by manufacturers such as Winegard, who made mine. If you have a new or current antenna and modern flat panel tv the switch is likely not necessary. I had previously replaced my OEM bat wing antenna with a new King omni directional OTA antenna and with the addition of a splitter (the King Omni came with a 12v signal boster) I was able to tie all of the relative cables into the system. The front and bedroom TV internal "input" controls switch between OTA, Cable and internet. Obviously for Cable and internet you also need a source such as a cable connection, satellite connection or source of internet or suitable wifi. Disposing of the switching system also freed up cabinet space. ON a related note, if you entertainment system came with a VCR or old DVD player you can replace the DVD player for about $50 with a new and much smaller unit that connects directly to the TV with an HDMI cable; resulting in much better image quality.

Based on your description you slide may be out of adjustment or have a damaged or obstructed slide roller. Something is bogging down the motor (assuming it is electric) which caused one previous motor to quit all together. If you are in or near central FL Talin RV does a good job of adjusting slodeout. I had ours done there this winter. I would suggest you check for obstructions, and if that is not the cause have your slide rollers inspected and the slide adjusted. This might be a DIY depending on your skill level but it is critical that it be done on level ground with the coach aired down.

The Haughton is a stand alone unit. It is in no way connected to the thermostat. In my case I still have the thermostat connected to the furnace and the control box from the old Dometic, just in case I need it. I am still working out some kinks with the Houghton and it took a bit but RecPro has been helpful in sorting this out. In the beginning there seemed to be no true control of the temp. I finally figured this out with there help and some experimenting. For everyone who is interested in the details keep reading: 1) We are use to using fans in conjunction with A/C (long story for another time). As a result we have a 20" fan on the dresser opposite the bed that was directed to blow on us and toward the ceiling. I incorrectly though the thermostatic control was in the remote, IT IS NOT. There is a temperature sensor in the a/c roof return that is attached to the evaporator coil. It reads the temp of the return air and controls the fan and compressor. The dresser fan was directing cold air from the discharge vents back into the return air, lowering the temp of the return air and shutting then system down prematurely. It is recommended that if you have a ducted system you close the dump dampers and just distribute the cold air through the ducts. 2) On some models shipped to the US the temp regulator is clipped into the fins of the evaporator coil, similar to how temp control is done in a Norcold fridge. Tech support advise that when this is a problem the temp reader should be removed from the coil and zip-tied to the electrical cord exposed to return air. I am attaching a link for a video on this. I believe they may have made a change now at the manufacturing level but just in case it is here if you need it. 3) I mistakenly thought there was an option for continuous fan (3 speeds) or auto. Actually, in cool, heat and dehumidify the unit runs in auto fan mode continuously, If you set the cooling fan on Medium it will run on Medium until the temp sensor reads the set temp and then drop to low, where it will stay until the temp turns on the compressor again. In fan only mode you can set the fan to run as desired (L,M,H,Auto). 4) Units are controlled at the remote or ceiling unit. You can turn on/ off the ceiling display at the remote. We find the ceiling display too bright in the bedroom at night, The other serves as a great night light in the leaving area. 5) As previously noted, this unit is quiet. On low fan I had to tape a tissue on a vent to make sure it was running. I still highly recommend this as a replacement should you need one. After you figure out the idiosyncrasies and fine tune it to meet your needs it is a great product.

Thx.-Does MH qualify only if you are full time?

Ivylog, have you confirmed the Samsung has a DC compressor? All residential fridges in the US are generally 110VAC. If it has a DC compressor then it must also have an AC to DC inverter on board, which mean when running on inverter power you are converting DC(battery) to AC and then AC to DC. Seem very inefficient.

Not to hijack this post but since you brought it up, Rocketman3, what are the specifics for qualifying for the IRS SOLAR CREDIT on a MH? I ask as I am planing to replace my "nevercold" with a residential fridge and at that time add another 400 amps of LiFePO4 to my existing 200 AMps. I was delaying adding Solar but if the IRS credit can be applied to all if done together then it might make sense to do it all now.

8 to 10 across Texas can be a boring drive (a lot of flat) but an easy drive. I have made it many times in a van for business. To break it up, if you have the time, I suggest you consider breaking it up by dropping off I-10 at Van Horn ( 90 E) and visit Alpine, Big Bend NP (entrance at Marathon), Langtry (actual Judge Roy Bean courthouse and salon), cross the Pecos River Gorge, Lake Amistad at Del Rio, Bracketville AFB, Uvalde, Castroville (old German town) and back to I-10 at San Antonio. Its actually about the same number of miles but probably adds a day or three depending on how may stops you make. For instance I am a Judge Roy Bean fan so I made sure to visit his grave and copy of the Langtry Courthouse in Del Rio. This route will break up what can be a long and boring drive across 880 miles of Texas. You should note that between El Passo and San Antonio there are few stops for fuel (Van Horn and Ft Stocton being the two main ones). I recommend taking advantage and filling up when you can. If you take 90E Alpine and Del Rio will be your best bets. After DR there are more options but still not close together.

In my opinion there is not all that much difference between 10 and 40 as far as road quality. It all depends on how much road work is being done at the time of your trip. Aside from that time of the year, weather, cost all come into play. Look at which is you shortest route. I-40 is, in my opinion, a prettier drive (more variation and interesting terrain) especially east of the Rockies, but that is just my opinion.

If we are in travel mode (overnight or maybe 2-3 days because of weather or for rest) I do not take the car off the dolly unless I need the car to go somewhere. If your dolly is setup correctly it should be neutral ( dolly in straight line with RV hitch) airing down should not change the angle at the ball significantly. That said, if it is just an overnight stop we often do not put out the slides or just put out the bedroom slide. Also, for short stays we do not deploy the levelers unless we are in an RV park and will generally leave the RV in ride height. I do make it a habit to check the car and dolly each day before driving. This includes checking the basket straps, Ball connection, hitch pins, lights etc. Note: If you are towing the car a long distance for the first time I recommend you invest in a battery quick disconnect. It will save you from accidentally draining your car battery. I would post a photo but I keep getting an error code when I try to load a photo from my HD. They are in expensive and available at most auto parts places. Also, if you are staying in an unsecured place (Walmart parking lot, rest area, etc) Be sure to take the key out of your car, set the break and lock up each night. Have fun on your cross country travels.

Look on the NRVIA.com website for certified inspectors in the area.

If your coach has a ducted a/c system with access to the return plenum, you can remove the grill on the ceiling and likely see straight up to the roof a/c. In most cases the sides are unfinished so you will likely see first hand a cross section of your roof. You can similarly remove the plastic interior fitting of any vent fan and see the unfinished cross section.

Thanks, I know the part just did not recognize the "name".

Pardon my ignorance but I have seen numerous references to the "Big Boy Relay". Can someone please tell me what this is / does? Always looking to learn.