1nolaguy

Ray, I feel ya man. I'm only 68 but think we must be cut from the same cloth. lol

I think drive time is very personal and effected by circumstances. When planning a trip , now that we are retired, I prefer not to drive more than 4 hours a day and prefer to stay at least a week in a local unless deadheading to a destination. That said, when I was working it was not unusual for me to drive (with a driving partner) from New Orleans to Long Beach CA in 6 days. It depends on the circumstances. Even today, I find when heading home (we are not full timers) I tend to drive longer each day and back to back for up to three or four days. But that is just me.

I am not a LFP expert by any measure but based on the research I did prior to going lithium, including talking with the tech support personnel at Xantrex, The issue is with the battery internal BMS circuitry. Those electronic component, as well as some RV electronics like new flat screen computers, house refrigerators and computers can be stressed by modified sine wave current (sometimes referred to as dirty electricity). I do not know this from first hand experience but from what I have gathered from qualified sources.

I converted to LFP batteries last year. Here is what I learned. 1) LFOs do not play well with modified sine inverters like my old Xantrex Freedom 458. If you have an older modified sine wave inverter you will likely need to replace it with a new pure sine wave model. 2) LFP, if charged from your alternator will need an inline DC to DC converter capable of limiting the amount of amperage. LFP will take as much as you dish out up to about 100 amps. This can play havoc on your chassis battery charging and your alternator. Some folks a add a second high amp altinator to provide charging but unless you are non-sola and spend a lot of time off grid your batteries will likely be fine between shore power connections or on board generator run. 3) LFO have 80-90% usability (some even 100%) so you get a lot more life out of each battery. I replaced 4 - deep cycle lead acid batteries with 2 - SOK 100 amp batteries with greater net available amperage. 4) For really good up to date review of everything LFP check out Will Prowes on Youtube. He does full tear downs of new batteries be has bought and provides all the needed details to make the best selection for the price. 5) Newer "Server Rack" battery systems like the EG4 models have benefits over the more traditional plug and play type 27 or 31 LFP batteries line the Battle Born and SOK 100 amp batteries. Worth looking at. If this was a year ago before I replaced my I/C I would opt for a 24v SR battery system and a 24v to 110 ac I/C. There are benefits to do this even when you add in the cost of of a 24 to 12vdc converter for your 12v system. I am very pleased with the performance of my SOK's and at $570 delivered, for me, were a better choice than the BB at close to $900 for the same amperage. Were it not for the fact that I had already replaced ny old I/C withe a new 12 to 110 Aimes in March I would change to 24v system but now being 12v I personally think the SOKs are a great way to go. YMMV.

I changed our two front bags about 3 years ago on our 2005 Safari Cheetah because the bags were showing signs of significant cracking and age. The two back ones still look very good. I believe the two front were originals while the two back may have been changed when the trailing arms were replaced by the previous owner. It was not all that difficult once I got up the nerve to do it. If you tackle this yourself (I was 66 when I did) I recommend putting the rig on jack stands for safty and ease of working. I bought a pair of 12 ton jacks from Harbor Freight for under $100.

It is bes to first determine your chassis. There is a place on line that can identify this using your VIN number (no not recall the URL or would post a link). Most OEM air bags for Monaco were made by Firestone (and they have an online download PDF that will give you the specific part numberhttps://www.firestoneip.com) ) . That said it is not alway accurate. The surest way is to look on the bag itself. It will be raised writing in an oval. If the Firestone bag is no longer available from them try other sources like Automann (https://www.automann.com/products) That is where I got mine. Example: for our 2005 Safari Cheetah the chassis type is R4R. THe air bags are Firestone W01-358-9551 / Contech AB1DK20D-9551

This last summer we moved and I could no longer keep our rv in the driveway at our new house so it went in storage in a neighboring state ate a place that was secure but with out an electric hook up. The house batteries are LFP so I just through the main switch to turn them off when in storage. For the Chassis Batteries I hooked up a 25 watt solar panel, bought on Amazon that that came with its on NMP 12v charge controller. When in storage I shut off the chassis battery switch and place the solar panel on the roof. Seems to work on keeping my Chassis batteries topped off.

It took me quite a number of tries until I found the correct size festoon LED to fit our fixtures. I finally got the correct size on Aliexpress or all places. Our bulbs were only about 3mm in diameter where most LED festoon bulbs were of greater diameter and would not fit in the fixture.

Jim, I used the same festoon replacements as Idoc57 and they work well but for the little difference in cost and since your are updating the stairwell anyway the fixtures from M4 look like a great option.

I know this is redundant as every comment above is correct. Rick A's suggestion is a good one but make sure it is plugged into an outlet serviced directly from your main panel if using a couch outlet. In our 2004 Cheetah the wall outlets in the bed room (not the one that services the tv) are through the main panel and only have power when connected to shore power or the generator. All the other easily accessible 110v outlets are linked through the GFCI in the bathroom, which in turn is linked through the inverter /converter. In our case this was until last year a Xantrex Freedom 458. Here are a few suggestions in the meantime. 1) do not run your electric heater above 1000 watts and do not run anything except it on a plugged in circuit at the same time. Periodically check the wall outlet and cord for heat. If hot shut it off. As a side note, last winter I noticed the outlets used were getting hot. These RV outlets only use a friction fit and now electrical box. I replaced them with shallow pan retrofit boxes (see lowes or HD) and commercial outlets using the screw terminals instead of friction ports. The result was greatly reduced heat generation at the outlets. This particular build design, having almost all the outlets connect through one GFCI and the I/C, IMO is poor and suggests only planned for light occasional use. I replaced my Xantrex with an Aims I/C this past spring and installed a sub-panel in the same bay. This spring I plan to split the two sides of the coach 110 service onto separate breakers so the drivers side will be on one breaker and the passenger side on a second one.

Thanks Steven P, I read your link and it was very helpful. Did you by chance change your front slideout seals as well and if so did you use the same size seals (Steele on the sides and AP on the top)? Also, did you change the bottom seals and if so which one did you use there?

I need to replace the seals on the three slides of our 2005 Safari Cheetah. The OEM seals are two bulb with a wiper design that friction fits on the wall around the slide. Steele Rubber Products were very heplful and sent me information and samples but the only seal that is similar to the OEM is much lighter and too short (wiper length). since I have to order a 40 ft box I want to make sure it would work before ordering. Has anyone in the group changed the slide seals on the same or similar coach with the same slide seals? If so did you use the Steele seals or from another source? If other please share.

Very cool. I guess you do not boondock much. Any guess at what all this will require in the way or amps or watts?

Also, as an FYI, leaving the jake brake/ engine brake on at low rpm can cause carbon build up that can create issues. I use to leave mine on when going through town to avoid having to stand on the brakes. I learned the had way this can cause issues with the transmission etc.

Tom, I went to the GE website as I am also interested in switching my Norcold 1200 to 12v and wanted to see what other sizes they make. I could not find this model number but similar ones were all discontinued models. Where did you fine it?

Thanks all for sharing. It is this type of information sharing that makes this group so helpful.

Thanks Stewart D, I will check that out. Susan Hill, when I find a solution I will post it here.

Unfortunately I do no have a dash electrical schematic. If anyone has on for same or similar 2005 I would greatly appreciate a pdf or a post here.

This probably should be under electronics or electrical but I did not see a field that really applied. A section of the dash in our 2005 Safari Cheetah that houses the radio, dash HVAC, and two 12v (cig. lighter style) outlets has stopped working. I have no 12v power at anything in section of the dash. Everything else on the dash area works. I have checked all the fuses is the compartment below the drivers window and in the house 12v system and all are good. I suspected perhaps a break in the ground but do not get a voltage reading even when going directly to the chassis for ground. Is it possible that every thing in this area (panel above center cup holders and draw) is tied to one 12v source/ fused line with an in line fuse? Any suggestions are appreciated.

There are many factors. My Mazda 2005 Tribute with auto tran. was rebuilt at 100K and the oil changed. I have it tested regularly. Now at 240K and still going strong.

Greg T - I may have missed what type of transmission you have so this information may not apply. I have an Allison 6 speed on my Safari DP. About 3 years ago I had a lengthy discussion with a gentleman that was envolved with the development for the fluid used in Allison Transmissions over the last 20 years. He advised their fluid is designed to run for 100,000 miles before requiring change unless there is an issue with the transmission that contaminated the fluid. His recommendation was that the fluid should be tested annually but only changed if required. There are numerous qualified testing facilities such as https://www.intertek.com/automotive/atf/ that can advise how to properly collect a sample and sell the equipment and testing. Testing can run from $25 to $50 and the equipment is about $50. They also provided testing of engine oil and radiator fluid. The test reports are not basic (as in change or still good) but detailed to TDS, particulates, and metals that indicate ware or erosion. This information will not only tell you if the oil needs to be changed but also what possible underlying issues that might exist, changing possible future repair to just preventative maintenance. If you have an Allison transmission, or even if you do not, you may want to pursue this before proceeding with a change which is likely going to be more costly. JMO

ScanGuage Customer Service confirmed IvyLog above on Monday. They are closed on the weekend. I am going to print out the code info at bigdeiselcode.com so I will have it with me in the RV. it is quite lengthy (I think 34 pages). I have subsequently been towed to a Ring Power in Lake City, FL for repairs. While in for "low intake air pressure" (likely caused when I removed the fuel filter and then tried to run the engine with out priming the filter first). While in I will have them check out the motor since It has not been checked except by me since we bought it in 2018. Service is up to day but air filter, belts, oil pressure, engine brake, etc. to make sure all is in tip top shape. Happy Thanksgiving y'all!

For our rv I believe the oem bulbs were 1156 & 1157 type. I just bought LWD versions at Advanced Auto.

I replaced mine with LEDA. Same with turn signals and break lights.

Replies above are all valid. Test it to see If rust but look for potential leak or seepage as well. Better to deal with that now than desalination later.