1nolaguy

Frank, I guess this is why you should regularly do a detailed inspection. After buying and installing the horizontal 3/8"x1" bolts I realized these are not actually attached to anything. Not sure what purpose the serve other than possibly during install or removal. Oh well, they now all have shiny new ss bolts. On the other hand I did realize the vertical 3.5" bolts are for adjustment of the slide pitch horizontally. Most of these were not under pressure (tight against the flat plate of the slide). I snugged them all up and one is missing so I will be replacing that, just in case. Note: turning the vertical screw tight against the plate and then 3/4 of a turn was enough to raise the slide on that side so that I'd would not catch on the basement door say more. It was not enough to level the slide but I want to wait until I am in a better , more level site before making additional adjustments.

Rick A, one additional question, do you just leave the vent cover open 24/7 or do you have vent fans that open the cover automatically when the fan is turned on? Ours are manual crank.

Additional photos

UPDATE: Today, I crawled under the slides and took some pics. Perhaps this is best help for the gathering at Lazydays Tampa but I am curious so thought I should add this here. It appears that some bolts have fallen out or are missing. Considering the rust I would not think this is recent. These look to be 3/8 or 5/16 x 1". Any input on purpose or replacing these would be appreciated. Also, the Dealer of the 2 opposing 13ft slides on our Cheetah appear to have similar but different mechanisms. The deeper slide (Driver side) mech. Each have 2 vertical screws about 3" long, presumably for vertical adjustment. The shallower slide does not have these. In our case this is the slide that is out of square in the whole. Any thoughts?

This is a neat idea. For us it could be helpful as my DW can not reach the "red" switches. A couple of questions: 1) where did you source the switches? 2) what gauge wire did you use? I am thinking 24 or 22 gauge would be enough to go from switch to fan.

Nice mod. How did you attach blue cover? Is it easily removable if you need access to the 120v outlet?

Nice mod. I too had plans to remove the J sofa and install a lift tv. Instead I put a 1080p led projector in the cabinet over the theater seats and a projector screen attached to the slide trim over the J. We mostly stream or watch DVD. TV in bed room if we want local OTA/News. This was initially planned as temp solution but we love it. Screen is 80" 16x9. Very little weight. Every night can be movie night!

Try Scan Guage / Scan Guage D for Diesel. They can possibly tell you if there gauge will work and possibly where the connection is.

It varies by model. In my 2005 Cheetah the access is through removal of a panel in the back closet.

FYI- Talked with Melissa today and we are all set. Patty and I (Loel) will see you all on the 16th. Thanks for all the help. Really looking forward to it.

David, FYI- I called Melissa and left a VM as she was not available at the time. Look forward to seeing ya'll on the 16th ( can not make it in for the meet & greet the night before).

Model of air bag is embossed on side of bag. If not readable you can start by checking the chassis on which your coach is built. For example my 2005 Monaco Safari Cheetah is built on a Roadmaster R4R chassis that has 4 air bags. If you do not have this in your documents it can be determined by searching your VIN number. Then you can search the chassis at Firestone air bag listing and it will give you the part number for the air bags for your chassis. Hope this helps.

David, just saw your post. I will call Melissa at Lazy Days as soon as I can find my phone, which is somewhere here in the RV. Today is cleaning day. Thanks. Will see you at the Rally.

Thanks guys. Armed with your comment I took a more detailed look at the shower enclosure. It appear that in fact it is wracked slightly. The panel does appear firmly attached to the wall but the outside corner where the top right of the door (opposite where the door is hinged) meats the panel edge (opposite of where it is a fixed to the wall) the panel is leaning out about 3/8" , just enough to create the closure problem. I also think I have found the cause as we usually hang the towels over the panel to dry and have been leaving them up when moving, which likely adds strain on the panel. I am going to try tightening the wall attachment, just to make sure it is snug, and make sure we stop putting the towels up there or at least leaving them when traveling. In the meantime, just pulling in on the top of the frame slightly causes the door to close properly with no effort. Thanks All. PS- still hoping I can squeeze in to the meet up in Florida in February.

Or tub/shower enclosure door is hinged on the left side (facing from outside the shower) and closes on the right against a 2nd panel of glass enclosure. On the outside of the shower door are two towel bars attached through the glass panel, and on the inside there is nothing but the screws and washers for attachment of the bars. Closing the door from the outside requires lifting up on the door by the top trim edge or one of the towel bars. From inside the door must be raised by the top trim edge of the door glass. Once inside the shower I can lift the door to open it but my wife is not tall enough (or strong enough) to do this. I am guessing the problem can in part be corrected by adjusting the door hinge but this does not address closing the door from the inside. Any help would be appreciated.

Are you speaking of the topper fabric or the mechanism? My 2005 Safari has Carefree of Colorado, which may be the same as yours. Stone Vos is your best go to for replacement toppers (fabric part)

Today, while sitting inside because of the cold weather here in Florida my wife noticed what looks like sunlight leaking in above the right side of the kitchen slide and shining on the ceiling. On close inspection it appears the end of the slide closest to the back of the coach is about an inch lower than the front end allowing light (and weather) to come in below the slide gasket. The slide moves in and out OK but I now realize the top edge of the bay door below the slide on the back side now makes slight contact. I do not know if this is an adjustment issue or if something else is amiss. I did not notice this prior to having the RV towed several months ago because of an engine issue. Has anyone else experienced this or something similar? If so, did you discover the cause and hopefully the fix?

Thanks. We are aware of that option. We are staying about 3 hrs away currently and could not find something else closer during the rally. 6 he a day drive time is too much at our age.

Hi all. We unfortunately found out we could go to late to get a spot Lazydays. Am on their list should there be a cancelation. If anyone planing to go has to cancel please let me know. We are already in the area.

Rick A, thank you for posting the photos. I suspected that is what you were referring to but wanted to be sure. John Rowin, your approach is interesting however have you noticed any issues of grease build up in your black and grey water systems? Coconut oil is generally solid at room temperature. At winter temp it is almost hard. Do you periodically pass hot water through the system to flush out buildup?

Hi Rick A. I have a 2005 Safari Cheetah, which in many ways is similar to the 2005 Dynasty. I am not familiar with a slide gate valve. Can you post a photo and approximate location of it? also, how may of them are there per slide?

Rick, your point is well noted. It is always good to have more than one choice for quality products. I had never heard of XFasten RV roof tape until your post. I re-taped my entire roof seams when updating my roof two years ago so I have no immediate need, however, If you take the plunge with XFasten I would certainly be interested to hear your review of how well it works compared to Eternabond.

Weighman695, do not assume your chassis batteries are charged when connected to shore power. This can vary from coach to coach, model year to model year. I initially made the same assumption until I learned otherwise. Our 2005 Monaco Safari Cheetah DST does not automatically charge the chassis batteries when on shore power. That was an add on "Smart Charger" that could be bought for several hundred dollars. As an alternative I purchased a 4 amp digital charger from Harbor Freight and plugged it into my Aims I/C that must be on whether I am connected to shore, genny in order to operate 110v in the coach. That keeps both the huse and chassis batteries topped off.

Noticed the same issue. Last change switched to Chevron Delo. All major oil companies are international so production can be made in any of a number of places. Shell has a blending facility right here in the New Orleans area, but that only packages 5 and 55 gal containers. At least that was the case when I worked there many years ago. I do know know specifically why there seems to be a shortage of motor oil at the current time, or why prices have shot through the roof the last year but I suspect it is a combination of weather related damage to oil refining and processing facilities in Louisiana combined with government policies enacted over the last year. COVID may have a little effect regarding trucking but most of the rest, well if anyone says it is do to COVID I think they are blowing smoke.

A bit confused. Are you sell these or did you find a sale/posting elsewhere for these? If the latter, where did you find them?