J Goddard

Recently, I had a very similar experience. Ugh. I had knocked off one of the clearance light covers over the driver's side while washing the coach using a pole mounted microfiber wash mop. Several days later when I climbed the ladder to replace the cover, I noticed that my driver's side windshield upper corner had popped. Needless to say, I was surprised that I hadn't noticed this from the ground. Just yesterday, I had an appointment at RV Glass in Coburg, OR where the technicians removed and reset the glass. I would advise that you have a reputable glass shop take a look at your situation. A popped windshield could be an indication that something else is going on. In my case, my glass had been replaced by a coach restoration shop last summer after they broke the original glass that had been in place since the coach was new. Their install was substandard and just didn't hold. As was explained to me, Monaco was not always 'exact' with the dimensions of the windshield opening in the front cap. My original glass survived almost 9 years of service. But when broken and subsequently removed, the new glass apparently did not fit perfectly. Observations of large amounts of sealant were evidence to that. RV Glass determined that the top of the opening was not straight and true and required approximately 1/8" ground off along a portion of the top. So in my case, I am glad I reached out to a shop that I could trust. Best of luck.

We have used Dave & LJ's Interior Design located in Woodland, WA. When my wife and I purchased our 2005 Diplomat from the PO in 2015, the first thing we wanted done was our front television. They did excellent work converting the front overhead TV cabinet, removing the OEM Sony tube television and installing a Samsung flat screen unit. Several years later, we returned for more interior work. All tile and carpet removed. New carpet installed on the slides and engine cover/bedroom closet. Luxury vinyl tile installed throughout New stepwell treads and recarpeted sides New sofa hide-a-bed and two rocking recliners Next up for us are new AutoMotionShades. So, not in your area of the country that you are considering, but you may want to. They do excellent work, keep their promises and complete work on time and budget.

Here is a picture of the SEA (Shower Enclosures of America) Travel Latch (PN 9000TL-SA). I installed these several years ago when I replaced the plastic latches. In addition to the Travel Latch I also have a Southco Grabber Door Latch on the back side of each door. The combination seems to provide an effective solution.

That helps. I didn’t consider mounting inboard of the drain valves. It looks like you have made other mods too. Thanks, Jeff

Excellent. Thanks for all the information. Would you kindly shoot an additional wide angle photo showing mounting location? I realize that each Monaco model has uniqueness qualities but it would be helpful. Thanks, Jeff

@Scotty Hutto, how did the diverter valve work out? Was this the final resolution? I am preparing to replace original Shurflow with a Remco 55AquaJet-ARV. Would you please post a photo on how you mounted the new pump? Thanks, Jeff

Several few years ago the RVA Company fortunately was purchased by and is now a division of Brazel's RV Performance in Centralia, WA. I can personally attest that they have excellent customer service and parts support. Jeff

Thanks to all for the input; I do appreciate it. @throgmartin, your insight will be extremely useful in the discussions and fact finding that will take place over the next several days when we arrive at the shop. And no, it will not be late to run. What I believe is that they use pre-built panels, but I intend to validate that tomorrow. In my quest to locate a shop for the thermal checking work, one shop in CA solution was to grind, grind, sand, etc and then lay down fiberglass fabric from a roll and resin. Another shop proposed grind, grind, sand, etc and then apply vinylester resin. I will update when I know more. Jeff

Update after another day of driving… I have changed my thought as to the source of the clunck/click noise. Only happens at low speed when the front cap / windshield is being torqued. Examples are when entering or exiting a parking lot or slow turn when the coach leans a little bit. Now that we are hyper focused on this, my wife and I believe it is originating off the windshield. A few days ago, during my pre-underpays, I applied some black Sikiflex at the top of the windshield area on the driver’s side - specifically between the rubber gutter and the window gasket. It looked like it had a bit of a crack there that needed attention. Did I screw up? Would this keep the windshield from properly ‘floating”? ADMINS: Maybe this thread should be renamed?

Front driver's side belt line above electrical bay is displaying evidence of popped fasteners (see photos). I have been watching this area and have noticed that the bumps in the rubber trim are becoming more pronounced over the past few trips. The information in this forum - especially input from @Scotty Hutto and @throgmartin is thorough and I believe extremely valuable. So I understand what needs to be done. And here is the cool part...we are on our way (from the Pacific NW) to a shop in northern Indiana for some major work. This may likely spark some of you to comment about questionable efforts or spending, but here it goes. The shop will be replacing both sidewalls to eliminate the thermal checking. Each year the checking gets worse and more unsightly. And we like this coach and have redone the interior. Anyway, a couple of necessary biproducts of this work are (1) all beltlines will be removed, replaced, and resealed and (2) a brand new paint scheme of our choosing. I have communicated to the shop that I want the beltlines installed with the 18-8 Stainless Steel Blind Rivets, Domed Head, 3/16" Diameter - I even sent the shop an excerpt of "Belt Line Repair" thread by @Scotty Hutto Anyway, here is my question.... could this popped beltline (at least I think this is what is referred to as a "popped beltline") contribute to a 'clunk' or 'deep click' noise when traversing over small bumps and pavement undulations at low speed? The reason that I ask this is that my DW and I are hearing a new noise on our current journey. From the driver's seat, the clunk sounds like it is coming directly from the front driver's side.

You may want to explore an interior remodel. My DW and I no longer liked the carpet, tile or original furniture in our 2005 Diplomat. For a fraction of what it would have cost to trade up, we had Dave & LJ's in Woodland, WA install new LVT throughout with carpet on the slide and in bedroom. When the old sofa bed and recliner came out, DW said, "don't put those back in." We are very happy with the new look and the comfortable supple sofa and swivel recliners. Yes, it is not a Dynasty or Beaver, but we like what we have.

Your rear air system drain valve is in the vicinity of the 2" tow receiver on the passenger side.

Yep Tom, I have the Roadmaster 061 Quiet Hitch item. It really does eliminate the slop that is inherent in a 2” receiver. However, it does nothing to address the infamous Jeep wobble.

I am towing a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a Road Master Falcon tow bar. Twice over the past year I have experienced the wobble you mention. Both times, I was turning left from a full stop at a traffic light. The wobble was so pronounced that the entire coach rocked side to side. What is the resolution - anyone know?

Ditto to @Dr4Film comment. Actually, I don't turn the ignition key until my VMSpc is booted up and displaying. The logging capability has assisted me in determining STOP ENGINE light recently. It turned out to be a non-issue and easily corrected. I wouldn't want to be without it!