Gweedo

Good morning, wondering if anyone has experienced this or have an idea of what the problem may be. Several months ago I heard a small buzzing sound coming from one ceiling speaker. We never watch tv one because I need to replace the satellite and normally we may watch a movie. Anyhow when we were boon-docked I had the portable generator running and then I turned on the coach genny to transition. The buzzing from the speaker became noticeably louder until I turned off the portable genny. Any ideas on what could cause this? No tv or stereo turned on. Thnx

Look for an old school parts house, some of them will have a flatbed belt sander. They use this to surface cylinder heads and exhaust manifolds for the local automotive repair shops. Or ask around some local shops to see if they have the equipment or if they know of another shop. You may have to drive a little bit. I am a strong proponent of resurfacing and thinner gaskets, like I mentioned above mine was way out and it's been about 20k miles now. This thread makes me want to find used one and have have it surfaced to have on hand for the next time. Check to make certain of the torque specs when using a lubricant for any consideration. You're halfway there, all down hill from here.

Always replace exhaust manifold bolts. My manifold was warped 10-thousands, I had it surfaced n reinstalled. Been 5 years now. Good luck to you!!!

Follow up. Book calls for 3/4 inch of fluid from the top which is where it was. Took the float switch out and it checked good. So I added fluid to less than a 1/2 inch put it back together and it works. Short answer fluid was too low. Thanks again for all the responses! now off to replace the generator dash switch. Merry Christmas to all.

I just went through this, mine kept tripping when switching from shore to inverter. With help from Tom Cherry and a few others, I put in a new GFI, and put the fridge outlet on the line not the load. This way I bypass the gfi to the fridge. Try unplugging the fridge and see what happens. GFI's get weak, replace with a reputable brand. my inverter is a magnum. If you haven't had the issue and it's new, probably just a weak GFI, hope this helps

Front bay.

I located n pulled the fuse. Puts me on the road. Check further when we get there in seven hours. Thank you guys for the quick response!!!!

I tried a recalibrate from u tube. Jack went down inch or so n I was able to retract Power gear It’s an 07 Manual won’t do anything

The control pad is dark. I turn key to on position. Jacks down light comes on. N center green light flashes. I put more fluid in just in case. Same issue. I checked all connections all r good. if I start it n release parking brake all lights flash n beeps Clarity when I turn pad on the jacks down light comes on Where would the fuse be located?

Leaving right now on a 7 day trip. When I put in gear my rig in gear n release the parking brake my power gear starts flashing and beeping. Says jacks down n their not. I replaced a seal month ago. Topped of tank. Jack when up n down no problem but I didn’t put in gear. Anything I should check

You can't tell the condition of a hose on the inside from the outside. I replaced all of mine 7-years ago, I used silicone where I could, and rubber for the others. I am going to change the non silicone hoses again and leave the silicone ones alone. Everyone has their own opinion, I go 7 to 8 years max. For what little they cost it's worth the peace of mind. In fact I haven't even thought about them until reading this thread thanks for the reminder.

Go onto West Marine. https://www.westmarine.com/west-marine-marine-rot-repair-penetrating-epoxy-12-oz.-20125670.html They have several types of penetrating epoxies. Essentially it takes rotten wood, and hardens after injecting the epoxy. I had a couple soft spots on my houseboat roof, I used this and they disappeared. Don’t forget your PPE dealing with the mold.. good luck

no problem. I used gorilla glue near the ends in addition to the self adhesive. if it comes down anywhere use another adhesive with it after I stuck mine on, I opened slide to compress it for a day. so far so good.

Here u r

I’ll measure tomorrow when I get home. If u go to the website I listed you can see different sizes

This is the interior seal. The small thin brown one on the black, I attached to top n both sides. This ensures the wiper seal folds compared going in or out.

I don't know the price difference. I think the shipping can get you. the first set of wiper seals were wrong (short), they sent replacements for free. the interior seal I used is heavy duty, self adhesive, but I add some because you will never get all of the old glue off. A buddy and I replaced them all, pretty simple to do. my wiper seal on top was completely mangled in the center, didn't know it because from the sides they looked good/intact. I heard a funny noise which made me look at it when it was closed.

https://uni-grip.com/products/part/BL-025 got my wiper seals and interior exterior slide seals here. they have a big variety

If you boondock a lot like we do 7-10 days at a time in the desert, I would suggest a small generator. I had two Honda's 2200 I paralleled (one just died after several years and couldn't even tell you how many hours it had), but I only run one all day and all night. We use 1-gallon of gas every 6-7 hours. I have a 6-gallon feed tank so I never have to worry about it running out of fuel at night. One genny keeps everything running, fridge, Batt charger etc with zero issues because there is no catching up. When I paralleled two they ran the micro as well. You can pick up a Predator at Harbor Freight way cheaper and larger especially when on sale. In the evening when the grandkids bombard us for dinner I run the coach genny for a couple hours because of the electric cooking appliances etc. Happy boondocking!!!!

Note: Source offers two options "IF" your rig applies. They have two different size shafts, depending on what you have on your rig, If the top is where the rod goes straight up through and bolts from the top you can use the larger (I think 64mm) shock. If you have the eye on top where the bolt goes through the shock like it does on the bottom you have to use the smaller shock. That's how I remember it being explained to me. I was able to put the larger shock on mine and it made a huge difference. I did it myself with a buddy. Hard to reach up and hold the shock from spinning, second pair of hands is necessary. I think the larger shock was about $50 ish more.

Thnx for the info. I took the valve to a hydraulic shop and they said the o rings are specific to hydraulic. Fortunately he had the o-ring that seats where the valve screws in. That is where it was leaking. I put it in last night and extended the jacks. Sat all night no leaks. At Lippert the valve was $349. at Northwest Rv is was $259, still waiting to see if an o-ring kit is available. So I saved a few hundred dollars , the guy gave me the o-ring.

The valve is leaking. I’m gonna try n find o rings to see if this fixes it. Can anyone tell me if these valves are under pressure when the jack are retracted. Thnx

Hello again. So I am trying to find a leak I think is coming from the leveling valve. You can see the wet. I have since cleaned everything n ran the jacks up n down n few times. Nothing seen. So I have left the jacks down to keep under pressure. I’ll leave it for a day or so. Has anyone replaced these. I contacted Lippert. Valve is $350 n magneto is $85. They say they are not rebuildable. Has anyone dealt with these or purchase them somewhere. Do you know if they r rebuildable. Not going to order until I’m certain at that price.

LMAO

If they told me go in there id say...I quit..LOL, what a job