Les Hurdle

Many thanks......... I looked at that, but I think the issue is a little further 'out'......... the flooring guy will come and take a look. L

Many thanks. I don't see enough room for that. How does one get underneath the inner part of the slide when it is extended? L

HI Folks... slightly different scenario. I had the floor of my 04 Cheetah removed [incl tiles] and a floating wood floor put in it's place. It is great. However I notice when the slide comes back in [or maybe goes out] something is dragging on the new floor scratching it badly. Hope you can see the lines across the plank in the pics. I tried to look underneath by briing the slide in until it tipped up but can't see or feel anything. Is there a way to get to the bottom of the slide?

Hope I'm in the right area.. I usually get it wrong. My drivers side rear hydraulic jack does not go all the way back up. Fixes/reasons please Les

file off the offending 'tit'. Les

Doesn't Bargman ?? have replacements? I did call them but after being on hold for 40 minutes I gave up. Les

Hi One and all. Reading nfo here I guess my slides do not ave rollers since the drivers side tends to stop st an angle. However, I enclose a picture since the front end of thr slide when 'at rest' seems to allow for the gear teeth so sit on the aluminium support. Is that ok? Les IMG_6322.jpg.pdf

Hi Joel, I may have someone who can help you Les 661 304 6556

Hi Daniel......... do you have part numbers, where to buy etc please? L

Hope you can see the pic enclosed. The corners of my slides have had some 'fabric' added at some time. It is now shot. Anyrecommendations as to corner pieces which can be bought or re-manufactured via something else? Les

I will have one unit plus a working rear o/s penguin which is working ok.

I old like to get replacements for an 04 Cheetah, plug n play? L

Hope I'm not mixing apples and oranges here [apparently I do] My generator sits in the front on rails and was a PITA to move in and out. Cleaned up the rails, much better. The [electric?] slides always seem to grind and bump along. The rollers look like they are coated with old lubricant as do the gear racks. What is; Best way to clean goop off and then which is the best lubricant to apply to everything? Thanks one and all for the info L

has anyone tried these? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Drill-Pump-Kit-PUP63-HD/204667248

Hi Greg, Thanks for the input. That is really good news, but also leaves me questioning. My passenger windshield broke from the bottom of the right hand corner. If the dash does little to assist windshield strength, what would have cause the 'stress' in order for the windshield to break. I was assuming the 'was tight on the windshield and as such going over a dip or bend pushed up hard against the windshield. Hope would the cap cause stress? I'm still wondering, is the windshield best if NOT attached to the dash cover [or maybe loose] so there are no hard contact spots. Hmmm Les

Hi All may I ask you to look at the 2nd picture in my post above. I'm faced with a dilemma or two. RV Solutions and various RV glass companies do not want to come to the high desert [up the mountain] near Palmdale California. One of the local glass guys [Buster] replaced the glass on my Southwind successfully. In this case the dash cover and the windshield on the Southwind move around quite a lot. Buster has fixed a Monaco after one person spent $8k having the front end [cap] stiffened up. When the single windshield was then installed it popped out, Buster fixed it. Here's my dilemma, if you can see the screen shot it shows one of the brackets not touching the underside of the dash cover and the entire area where the dash meets the windshield is covered in goop. Looks like to had been so for years. What is best. A stiff cap and dash attached to the windshield or perhaps allowing the windshield to float [in my case the end cap may have been damaged many years ago]. In other words, I leave everything as it is, have the windshields replace plus a new gasket and allow the unit to float somewhat. Or, remove all the goop put in new brackets and then attach the windshield or put windshield in cap as it is, then remove/replace brackets to fit how ever the cap and windshield are sitting/situated? Les

If part of a thread posts are not made generally?

Hi Folks, 2004 Cheetah. I live along a dirt road which is bumpy, so I drive very slowly. However, some dear person put a hole in the road [spinning wheels] and as i rounded the corner the passenger side dipped and windshield cracked. Had new awnings installed and when leaving the yard the windshield cracked more see pic #1. I have to presume at some point the front end of the coach was rebuilt or at least there were windshield issues. If you look at the other pics hopefully you can see there are only 2 brackets. One is no longer screwed to anything. I have called the local experts as supplied by RV Glass, no one wants to come up the mountain 😉. Local glass guy says he has experience with pop outs etc and has found a way to stop it. I would like some advice please. EG; noting all the black goop which has been applied, do I strip it all off, with what? I can apply more brackets but how/where do I know the correct place is for the top of the dash member to connect with the windshield. Is the windshield supposed to 'float' on its own. The rubber surround is shot so a new piece will have to be installed. Does anyone have any knowledge of how to fix this or are there any papers on the topic? Les

2004 Cheetah..... windshield broke, but that's for later. I've read the manual p212 etc can't see what type of slides I have, for sure the manual says don't scratch the floor. Just had a new floor put in...... pics later....... tile was removed but am assuming some was left under the couch and the cabinets etc. My question is, I see how to lube up the gear rack, but how does one get to the rollers, presume there are some. The drivers side front slide does step down when it it is extended. L

Thanks Folks, Tom, Agreed more data would be helpful. The issue arose the day before the coach went to have the tiles replaced with a new floor. I was hoping someone might have a sim experience. When I get it back I'll look to see what is where. I wont show pics of the new floor since I doubt I will have all of the pertinent data ;-))). Kidding.

I posted this Q somewhere else but I guess wrong place. I have a cable hanging down by the rad overflow container. Plug it in a fan coms on somewhere ? B7t the cable gets really 'warm' ??

Sorry if there is another tag somewhere. A couple of points. During the summer the engine started fine. I noted a slight rise in rpm then it would settle. Now it's cold [freezing] engine had not been started in 6 weeks. Started up straight away then after a few seconds almost stalled, righted itself and then carried on as in the past. Thoughts? There is a 110 v cable in the rear for ? I thought engine heater. Today I noted the cable was HOT and a fan was running somewhere, behind the radiator. Any idea what / why? Obviously not a heater probe stuck in the engine. Hope everyone has a safe New Year. Les

Hi Folks, Allegedlety there is a 'glassman' in Victorville California. M&M........ I leave messages with his staff, no reply ;)) I think I'll run with the cracked windshield for a while, but the rubber is shot ;-(( I enclose a picture of the 'support' under the hood......only 2 brackets, both as bad..... lousy, thoughts? Les

Oh boy........... our house was flooded a year ago last Nov, might be ready by March !

thank you.. now I know what I'll be doing over Xmas 😉