Les Hurdle

HI Ivan, Yes and yes in order to release the airbags. I'll have to check but am now wondering if the voltage is less than 12 hmmmm and if so how to correct it.

I should add. With ign on, dump switch activated there is power to the 'connectors'. If I add 12v to the cable attached to the solenoid the solenoid operate ok....... rubber collar version is much slower. So I'm stumped. L

OK. Hopefully this wont take too long but I have not been able to solve the issue. I spoke to KIP who make the solenoids. They would not sell them refereed me to Monaco Coach......... who didn't have any. [part# 1X1182] Hopefully pics below will be in # order. 1. original parts. I disassembled the right one, cleaned it all out it worked fine. 2/3/4. rt solenoid functions with a spring etc. [3 is just another solenoid shot] 5. left solenoid disassembled. This one seems to have a rubber cushion inside the main body. assembled both units. Pumped up the bags. Dumped... same. minimal amount of air out of left solenoid nothing from the right. remove plastic pipe from rt solenoid rear bags go down !! 6/6a. I marked the 12v incoming. Reversed them made no difference............ why does the rt have 2 white 2 black and left only one? I have to presume the issue is now electrics............. where to start in the rats nest !

Inflated airbags, went on a short w/e trip, rt rear airbag would not deflate. Removed plastic pipe, air escaped so I presume there is no blockage between the solenoid and the airbag. Disassembled solenoid, nothing wrong that I can see. Checked operation via dump valve. Swapped 12v lines all ok. Tech previously said it is the only place where a defect might be.......... obviously not so.......... any other ideas why the unit wont deflate?

Ha.... I have a 2004 Cheetah ;-))

Likely but now I know I'll keep it a secret 😉

OK. finally got to the root of the problem. The 5 button thermostat tells 'lies'. When it shows zone 1 [on the left] it really means Zone 1 is on the right, the main cabin, zone 2 the opposite. When applying zone 1 re a/c the main cabin a/c is activated............. mine is non op. Zone 2 works the back a/c and is ok. Don't ask me why but zone 2 always came up as the area for the furnace, but the air came out in the main cabin. It turns out I do have 2 furnaces, BUT the 5 button panel yet again 'lied'. Re furnaces, Zone 1 is the bedroom, zone 2 the main cabin. The opposite of the a/c........... all is well 😉

engine was running for a while while the system pumps up. thnx had a Bentley 😉 Also https://www.google.com/search?q=citroen+pallas&oq=citroen+pallas&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i512l9.6454j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8. fantastic

Trojan or Interstate.............. I think I'll buy new next week.

Moderator's EDIT Les, this is the third posting or topic for your HVAC and such issues. This one is now merged into the original one...which was also MERGED. Forum rules do not not allow top posting or asking the same question in new topics. END of EDIT. I asked a question about the furnace some while ago. In the main cabin it is very toasty but I see vents in the rear part of the coach incl bathroom.......... what is supposed to come out of there..so far nowt. L

Hi Yes I have added distilled water [DW].....checked today and the levels were down. I added DW and will await to see what happens. Volts are about 6.4....... main batt once the motor started [11.9] went up to 12.36......... however I see they are 2018 so time to get new me thinks !

Hi Tom and everyone.... can't thank you all enough and will download all. I'm going to beg forgiveness. Our house was flooded last Nov, just got over the Bobcat fire of 3 years ago........ lost most things. We had a Southwind Storm which was basic and simply never stopped, but 1998 etc etc. When the house flooded my very understanding wife and I moved into the Storm, thinking a few weeks ;-)) It became obvious our contractor was not top draw but up in the mountains choice is limited. Months went by. We needed space, hence the 2004 Cheetah. I'm 80+ and still working many hours per day my wife works so 'looking after' where we live was not top of the list ,Sadly. However, 2 weeks ago we fired the contractor and took over the 'remodel'............. now things are getting better......... of-course big fights to come, contractor / ins etc... oh well. We had a trip planned for mid Oct and we will go in one motorhome or the other, so TODAY is the first day of really checking out the Monaco. Tech will come on Tuesday and fix suspension and other things I do not want to do. So will get his help re batts etc if I can't figure it out I had asked the previous owner about Batt chargers-equip etc he had no idea and I have yet to find one, but then I've only scratched the 'surface'. Local auto store declared batts ok........... if the beast fires up today and I get it outside I can take a good look in the daylight and see what is what. I'm super rich [ha ;-( ] so will go buy new batts if need be, then see what happens to them. New floor planned for end of Oct !! Will report Thanks again. Les Hurdle [still a Womble].

thanks.. one never stops learning L

when my pump works and 'stutters' the coach lights flicker... why is that?

where is it?

I hope I'm jumping into the right thread here. I have 2004 Cheetah been attached to shore power for a few months [house got flooded] I noticed fluid on the top of a couple of 6 volters a while ago . Checked them and they appear to be ok......... think I read on a forum somewhere about overcharging the batts.......... so I turned them off. Yesterday [aside from 120] everything died. Ooops. Turned the batts on and a few minutes later all good. I've read the manual but [with respect for all the knowledge shown on this forum] I genuinely do not want to understand the minutia, just the basics. Simple things like, the coach panel, does it show what the batts are being charged at or something else. see pics. [lh pic is 13.62...]....... thnx Les

I had a similar situation on a 4 jack Southwind Storm.... level side to side and one rear jack would stay up........ I used to ram wedges under it.. that fixed it. I'm hoping to get my 'ride vavle' fixed on my Cheetah and hopefully that will fix the rear end. L

OK thanks but if it means going underneath.... no sireeee.... too old ;-)) Or can I get to them for the top?

both not working. Bulbs are ok......... manual has no data as to 'what' engages the reversing [back up] lights. Thoughts

My garage mechanic keeps plugging Amsoil.......

My RV tech insists on Delo 400 & Cat filters.

I found this kids tool at a dollar store......... just passing it along. batt filler.pdf

Perhaps a silly question........... for reasons far too long winded to explain I need to know is it ok to move the coach on empty airbags for about 20 feet forwards then backwards?

I live 1 mile up a dirt road. When I bought my Cheetah first thing I did was to wash the rad. Owner had washed the outside. Using Citrus cleaner inside [from access pints in wardrobe etc] made it clear rad was clogged. I also added household a/c filters inside my rear doors for when I drive along the dirt road to prevent some of the dirt getting into the rad.......... take them out prior to driving more. When I get to my destination [which sadly has been few] I get the air blower out, blow the rads off and then open access pints and blow off engine.

I leave ALL of the old fashioned bulbs on in the bathroom[s]........... keeps it warm in the winter 😉 Bulbs are cheaper than LPG