Les Hurdle

Hi Tom, Thanks for the help. The previous owner had 'Source' trailing arms installed and a local front end shop in Victorville qualified they were good, airbags are go etc........... he wont do much else, but had Monaco so knows where to look. I believe I finally got the airbag issue sorted, but that sake for few words I will tell you what I did It was looking like the issue was the voltage even though manufacturers said it didn't matter. I've moved my rig around my yard a lot these past weeks.......... story far too long to tell........... and I test various things as I bumped the air. The front was always ok. The last the rears wouldn't I got a small 12v batt., hooked them up applied the 12v. whoosh...... down they went so I also figured 12v is it. Anyway, I kept trying with the set up as it is. Changed the cables etc just wouldn't work. So, as you said, I tried to check the voltage at the switch.... ha !!......... I tried to remove the top panel, that was going to break, so I undid the side panel and looked up toward the switch........ the screws holding the panel on were very long. The seat and steering wheel had been placed in a position where my gut was not to be accommodated. Also every wire was white, if there were numbers too small for me to read.......... so I left the panel off in disgust, had to move the coach again.......... thought ! Got my wife to press the dump switch while I was at the back to 'see'....... it all worked perfectly and so far is ongoing........ my only non tech thought issue I a screw might be t maybe @! one of the long screw holding the panel in had chewed through a wire a tad and was causing mischief. The next few weeks will tell a tale. In the mean time I keep the small 12v in the batt hold along with the harness I made and if else fails I'll use that. Also, I'm still working 50-60 hours per week and a drive to Oregon would be difficult, is there anyone in California re windshields?

Hi Bill, Not yet.......... I only noticed a day or so before I left for overseas... I'm in the UK. Will find a way to look when I get back............ I drove it about 200 miles as is and it seemed ok.

Hi. I just watched a video and was astonished to see a windshield installer wiping new shield in a circular motion....... bahhhhhhh. ONLY up and down. Those of us who fly know to clean windshields vertically so any scratches you have there is less chance of 'catching' unwanted sunlight rays. Someone wrote about Loving Monaco's. I'm new to such aND really like mine but reading these forums makes me wonder sometimes, why are they SO 'problem prone'? So far no one has come up with an idea for my 'split body' issue........ I'll find out and let ya'LL know.

I'm wondering how difficult can it be to replace a window?

My issue was going to down a dirt road which was uneven and I suspect going round a sharp corner didn't help. VERY slowly. Oh well

ok thanks. In my area 'Buster' is out glass man....... he did my Southwind and it seems ok.......... anything special about Monaco's?

Anyone tried Safelite for rv windshield repairs?

Must admit I hadn't through of that........... I went on a 200 mile trip after the incident and the coach seemed to drive ok. Trailing arms had ben replaced by 'Source' a while back.

Sorry. I got the topic wrong.......... just got off the pane, put it down to jetlag . My coach does not have an auto leveling system. Intros cs it was because the road was not level as moved over it and on a corner.

I had posted this elsewhere but advised to start over. I had mentioned once before I had an issue with the woodwork surrounding the toilet. I live along a dirt rough road. Going on a trip a week ago I moved at a snails pace down a hill but something wasn't right as the windshield cracked in the lower right corner to the top. Please see pics. Since then I noticed a shift in the 'line' of the coach on a panel which does not open. Pic 1/2 shows it slightly protruding [rear]. I tried to push it in but no human force moved it. However the other end of the panel is quite loose and can be moved in and out maybe 1/4 ". Pic 3 shows some kind of packing/filler in the gap on the left hand side of the panel. In the past I had no reason to look in this gap. Now I see a split in the 'filler' top to bottom . At this point in time I have no way of knowing if the split was there before or as a result of the torque which broke the windshield ......... as an aside must admit I am not a fan of the tri jack assemble........... anyway, I walked through the coach inside today and checked the toilet. The door which had been 'perfect' once the shifting of the surround was fixed is now tight at the top. Am I looking at serious body/chassis damage or is this the result of a twist which then 'righted itself?

I had mentioned once before I had an issue with the woodwork surrounding the toilet. I live along a dirt rough road. Going on a trip a week ago I moved at a snails pace down a hill but something wasn't right as the windshield cracked in the lower right corner to the top. Please see pics. Since then I noticed a shift in the 'line' of the coach on a panel which does not open. Pic 1/2 shows it slightly protruding [rear]. I tried to push it in but no human force moved it. However the other end of the panel is quite loose and can be moved in and out maybe 1/4 ". Pic 3 shows some kind of packing/filler in the gap on the left hand side of the panel. In the past I had no reason to look in this gap. Now I see a split in the 'filler' top to bottom . At this point in time I have no way of knowing if the split was there before or as a result of the torque which broke the windshield ......... as an aside must admit I am not a fan of the tri jack assemble........... anyway, I walked through the coach inside today and checked the toilet. The door which had been 'perfect' once the shifting of the surround was fixed is now tight at the top. Am I looking at serious body/chassis damage or is this the result of a twist which then 'righted itself?

Many thanks Stephen.......... I'm guessing via the hatch in the bedroom floor? I'll spill it. Then it occurred to me........... flexible pipe https://www.google.com/search?q=oil+drull+pump&oq=oil+drull+pump&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i59l3.3257j0j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#ip=1 Anyone have any experience with this idea? L

Thanks to all for the input. I managed to get the for open by levering the bottom out and up. I disassembled the latch and did in fact fund the unit to be bent.

Handle on baggage door moves.... it feels like it is engaging somewhere. The bottom of the door seal on either side moves a tiny bit when pulled hard but the middle is firmly wedged........ wd40 etc is not the answer........... I'm presuming the 'end' of the lock is somehow jammed into the door, unless it is a mechanism issue. How to get to the back of the door? L

Anyone have info on https://www.irvineshadeanddoor.com/products/roller-shades/? my coach has these installed and aside from the 'window shades falling apart’ the front side to side shade only works on the day time shade. Same issue as noted in this thread. Motor 'glitches'........ apparently previous owner already put in 2 new motors ????? The local vendor in Orange County CA doesn't answer calls, the other is in Mesa AZ..... ?. send it all back to Elkhart? L

OK, did not see any other Q's re such a dumb question......... the neck of the engine oil filler at the back of my 2004 cheetah sits 'up in the gallery' of the rear compartment. What is the easiest way to add oil? Even if the partition is moved the angle of dangle is a challenge? L

My wife inadvertently left a clock on the wall as she put the passenger side slide out. Fortunately she did hear the crunch and stopped. I enclose 2 pics......... the top 2 screws have been pulled out of the trim.......... easy to cut off and maybe just glue it all back on, but, how would one remove the fabric and wood trim so as to 'do a proper job'. or is cut n glue the best way? Les

Thanks. I'll take a peek today.

I followed all the suggestions and checked various things. Rightly or wrongly I checked voltage at the line going to the solenoids with the engine running 12.56v I changed the air pipe from one solenoid to the other... voila... both worked ! Then it didn't. Unwisely I got underneath and started poking around looking for what ! The rats nest of wires was hard to follow since they were all the same color. As and when I saw a screw with a wire attached was screwed into the chassis I took it out, cleaned it up and replaced it. I have no idea if one of those is attached to the solenoid[s], but at last check both, with air pipes back to their original positions, work. The solenoid with the rubber interior releases air way slower than the other . For now it appears to me as if the entire issue was grounding, but how was one to know if the 'ground' was hidden........ I'll know more in a few weeks. Thanks to all who guided me through this process.

Hi Dennis, It is 4 bags. Since I have had the 2004 coach I have found issues with the suspension which I don't think the previous owner was even aware [don't know why]...... I have learned a lot about solenoids etc and plan to investigate further in the next few days. Many on the list have offered support and help, thank you all. sadly the least helpful was Monaco Coach. I'll post my findings which may help others who are not overly aware of the mechanics of coaches.

I'm no doubt doing this wrong but figured I'd tag onto this topic as my issue is sim. Wife was putting slide out and 'forgot' ! Result is the end trim is now partway off. Hope the pic tells the tale. I suspect the screws are under the fabric. I'd prefer not to take the whole thing off..... how does one remove the fabric?

HI HARRY It will take 4 weeks to get solenoids from the supplier.........Pls email me at leshurdlebiz@gmail.com

Engineers at Norgen today confirmed solenoid should work ok with 11.25v supply. They say it is when the v is OVER 12v there is a problem. The search for the solution continues.

Thank you all.............. I'll get to the tests.......... hopefully moving back into the house this w/e so moho issues may have to wait for a few days.

Apologies........... I had a 'musical' download going and did not use the link. I now see what it is........... thank you. These solenoids have a 'rubber' insert instead of a spring? However, when you say Valid Controller.......... not in the manual, do you refer to the plate which holds the dump switch etc? Ivan mentioned ground.......... from hot to chassis ground a slight increase to 11.34v........... I understand resistance in wires etc etc....... I've looked for an answer on-line as to what lower voltage will a 12v solendoid work........ didn't find an answer....... is there a low point? Also, bearing in mind for some reason my coach has a solenoid with a spring and one with a rubber insert. When a 12v source is connected they both work [individually], the spring is super fast, the rubber 'dribbles'. All new to me.