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Fan wax valve


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I completed a radiator replacement recently and started up the Coach yesterday. It runs fine and everything came up to temp fine. The radiator fan runs at full speed constantly though. I know this is a sign of a bad wax valve but I was wondering if there is a specific flow direction for the valve. When I replaced the lines with new I lost my marking to tell me which line went where on the valve. Didn’t see any flow direction marked on the valve. I plan on reversing the lines to see if it solves the issue but I was wondering if anyone knew if it makes a difference. 
 

thanks

Edited by Chargerman
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I had the same issue when I had my radiator repaired when they reinstalled it they installed the thermal valve hydraulic lines backwards. All I did was reverse the two lines that go to the thermal valve and everything worked fine. If you need more information on how the thermal valve works I can forward that to you it’s definitely a directional valve.

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Ok. I hope so. Hoping not to spend another $350+ on a new valve. 

Thanks guys. Good to hear that you have the same issue Kevin. I will swap them in the morning and let you know how I make out. So glad to have the radiator and exhaust project behind me. I was a big one for sure

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I believe it does make a difference. I would try switching the lines as you alluded to and see what happens. Also, there is adjustment on the end of the valve. An Allen head plug/cap removed allows access to another Allen inside. I believe by backing it out, counter clockwise, it will slow down the fan. Make sure motor is off before removing the plug/cap. Hope this helps.

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Thanks Frank. 
 Since it is the same valve That was in the old radiator I don’t suspect that it will need any adjustment but it’s certainly Gond to know

 

Kevin

I would like to see the info that you have on the valve. It’s always good to learn how something works. 

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I had my radiator changed at a Cummins shop.  As soon as I drove it back I realized the fan was running wide open.  I contacted Monaco Tech support and first they told me to try was to reverse the hoses, didn't solve the problems and the said it wouldn't damage the valve if they were.  He then had me plug both hoses and then put a union between them.  Doing this didn't make a difference as the fan still ran wide open.  They advised me to change the valve which solved the problem.  When I did take the old valve off and had my rig running I took the old one apart and found a piece of rag in it.  I cleaned it and kept it but don't know if it would work if I put it back on.

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1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

I had my radiator changed at a Cummins shop.  As soon as I drove it back I realized the fan was running wide open.  I contacted Monaco Tech support and first they told me to try was to reverse the hoses, didn't solve the problems and the said it wouldn't damage the valve if they were.  He then had me plug both hoses and then put a union between them.  Doing this didn't make a difference as the fan still ran wide open.  They advised me to change the valve which solved the problem.  When I did take the old valve off and had my rig running I took the old one apart and found a piece of rag in it.  I cleaned it and kept it but don't know if it would work if I put it back on.

Yeah! I just hate it when a piece of rag makes it's way into a valve. Hope Cummins helped you with the cost....Dennis

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Hello Steve, Mine was hooked up backwards for about a year and a half I really didn’t know that it wasn’t supposed to be that loud. This fall I was on a rally in Oregon and several other owners of Monaco‘s said my coach sounded like a freight train coming through the campground. 
I have a C 13 2006 Beaver patriot thunder. The diagram in my book that came with the coach is wrong I found out. It says I only have one hydraulic pump that runs the power steering and the fan motor. I have two hydraulic pumps one running the power steering and one running the fan they both work off the same reservoir . After doing all this research I was 90% confident that it was hooked up backwards. There’s one thing in the attachment that talks about a electronic override switch mine does not have that.

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8 hours ago, Dennis H said:

Yeah! I just hate it when a piece of rag makes it's way into a valve. Hope Cummins helped you with the cost....Dennis

Overall I can't complain about the work the Cummins shop did.  I knew the manager and he worked with me on keeping the costs as low as possible.  I had road debris take out my radiator, as soon as I saw what caused the leak I contacted my insurance agent, he instructed me to take pictures as soon as the radiator was pulled.  I did that and the insurance company agreed it was road debris that caused the damage but then it took about 3  weeks of back and forth to agree on an amount, they sent an adjuster to inspect.  The shop foreman was working the claim agent and adjust and explained all the costs, part of which was a complete radiator flush and new antifreeze since I had to pump water through the system from my fresh water tank in order to move it into a spot that the tow truck could get to it.  I ended up sourcing the radiator as the prices Cummins got were in excess of $6K, I bought one from CG&J for $2650 including shipping.  The shop manager agreed to let me do this saving me a bunch of money and if they would have sourced they mark everything up 50%.  By doing this it offset the cost of my deductible and also allowed me have my CAC refurbished, at a cost of $1600.

But after I got the rig and drove it home I did have some issues with some of the work Cummins did

  1. I noticed a faint vibration when I drove it home ~45 miles, I checked and found that the drive shaft (taken out for towing) had been installed out of phase so I had to remove and correct.
  2. I also noticed that the fan was running wide open, ended up having to buy a new thermovalve from Whitehouse products to get it working correctley
  3. The sheet metal surrounding the fan shroud was haphazardly put back on with some screws missing and they did not caulk the seams as it came from the factory to prevent air recirculation.  

I informed the shop manager of all of the above but no financial help. 

But considering how they worked with the insurance company over a period of three weeks I can't really complain.

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So I swapped the lines on my valve and the fan has calmed down. Whew. That was easy......for a change. 
 

Thanks to all who replied so quickly and offered help and advice. Really appreciate everyone on here!

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