Chassis Multiplex FRB Electrical Fire

[Bob125]

I came across this topic by Frank McElroy and downloaded the file and write-up by Tal G.  If you search for a file called "Chassis Multiplex FRB Electrical Fire 1.0.0" you will find it.

In the write-up, Tal G. suggested to add two circuit breakers for the house and chassis battery power cables feeding the Front Run Box printed circuit board.  I am going to do that to my 2009 Beaver Marquis as I feel I have the same system and potential for fire.

I've attached a picture showing another power feed to the Chassis Control Module.  Does anyone know if I need to add a circuit breaker to this as well?

Thanks, Bob...

2009 Beaver Marquis

 

 

[k7jv]

I don't know what your rear run panel looks like, but in '06, Monaco fed the front run panel from the rear run panel.  All of those circuits were protected by circuit breakers.  I'm attaching a drawing I made of the rear run panel on our '06 Dynasty.  If they continued that design concept, it might help you check out to see what you have.  I will say that your front run panel bears no resemblance to ours, but that's ok.  The rear one could still be very similar.

In 2006, there were three feeds to the front run panel.  One was a chassis battery feed and it was protected by a 150 amp breaker.  One was a coach battery feed protected by a 110 amp breaker that was switchable by the "salesman switch" by your entry door.  And one was a coach battery feed protected by an 80 amp breaker that was always "hot".

Good design practices would have those feed circuits already protected by circuit breakers like the attached drawing shows, or by fuses, most likely by circuit breakers.

Layout - Rear Run Panel (Back 2).pdf.pdf

[Frank McElroy]

Bob,. I was the one who worked with Tal to redesign his burned up PCB and to properly fuse each sub section feed as well as the main feed cables.

A chassis multiplex coach is a completely different system from the conventional system in older coaches.  Monaco made a mistake by not properly fusing the battery cables feeding the large PCB.  Adding the two breakers described in that file document will properly protect that PCB.

As for the large cable feeding the CCM module, that is properly protected with circuit breakers located in the RRB.

[Bob125]

Hi Frank, thank you so much for the confirmation.  Exactly what I needed.

I enjoyed ready Tal's write-up.  Lots of great info to further understand the system on my 09' Beaver Marquis.

I'm trying my best to have provisions for work arounds if any of the multiplex CCM items fail.

Thanks again, Bob...

[Frank McElroy]

Bob, the weak link in the CCM is the +5 volt supply that feeds the smart wheel.  I've already helped quite a few members identify this as the reason why their smartwheel controls start to not work properly.  There is a $20 solution that uses a separate +5volt supply posted in one of the group discussions.  This would be high on my priority list to fix as soon as you start having wiper problems.

 

[Bob125]

I'm on that now.  I just received my 12V to 5V supply in from Amazon today.  I think I have identified the wiring, got the power supply and wiring and making a file on this if/when I lose power to my smart wheel.   All working good the last 11 years.  Thanks again.  I'm trying my best to be proactive and have alternate means to power headlights, wipers, turn signals if this Kongsberg CCM decides to quit working properly.  Trying not to be stranded.

Thanks for all your insight.  Bob...  '09 Beaver Marquis

[Stephen D]

On 5/23/2021 at 5:11 AM, Bob125 said:

I came across this topic by Frank McElroy and downloaded the file and write-up by Tal G.  If you search for a file called "Chassis Multiplex FRB Electrical Fire 1.0.0" you will find it.

In the write-up, Tal G. suggested to add two circuit breakers for the house and chassis battery power cables feeding the Front Run Box printed circuit board.  I am going to do that to my 2009 Beaver Marquis as I feel I have the same system and potential for fire.

I've attached a picture showing another power feed to the Chassis Control Module.  Does anyone know if I need to add a circuit breaker to this as well?

Thanks, Bob...

2009 Beaver Marquis

 

 

 

On 5/26/2021 at 5:00 AM, Bob125 said:

I'm on that now.  I just received my 12V to 5V supply in from Amazon today.  I think I have identified the wiring, got the power supply and wiring and making a file on this if/when I lose power to my smart wheel.   All working good the last 11 years.  Thanks again.  I'm trying my best to be proactive and have alternate means to power headlights, wipers, turn signals if this Kongsberg CCM decides to quit working properly.  Trying not to be stranded.

Thanks for all your insight.  Bob...  '09 Beaver Marquis

Hi all I live in the United Kingdom and have a 2010 Monaco dynasty bishop Iv with the dreaded kongsburg chassis multiplex 

at the moment all is ok but I want to protect the system if I can from anything I can I am going to get the alternative 5v power ready

but I was wanting to fit the 50amp protection blue sea cube fuses but don’t know we’re to fit them there are no Monaco agents in the 

uk so any pictures were to fit would be appreciated and any were els protection can be put would also be appreciated as there is no one

in the uk who could fix a problem 

thanks stephen 

[Frank McElroy]

On 5/23/2021 at 12:11 AM, Bob125 said:

I came across this topic by Frank McElroy and downloaded the file and write-up by Tal G.  If you search for a file called "Chassis Multiplex FRB Electrical Fire 1.0.0" you will find it.

In the write-up, Tal G. suggested to add two circuit breakers for the house and chassis battery power cables feeding the Front Run Box printed circuit board.  I am going to do that to my 2009 Beaver Marquis as I feel I have the same system and potential for fire.

I've attached a picture showing another power feed to the Chassis Control Module.  Does anyone know if I need to add a circuit breaker to this as well?

Thanks, Bob...

2009 Beaver Marquis

 

 

No, this feed goes to the CCM module and there are internal fuses for proper current protection.

[Wildwood]

With potential of melted circuit boards or worse yet a fire we decided to be safe rather than sorry by adding the circuit breakers to house and chassis b4 board.

[Tom Cherry]

Nice.  For all the technical minded and such....plus just curiosity.  

What was the fuse or circuit breaker rating on the cables when they left the battery (in the RRB?)?

Were the HOUSE and CHASSIS the same (amps of protection) in the rear?

What amperage CB did you install for each side (House and Chassis)?

How did you determine what size circuit breaker to use up front?

Thanks,

[Frank McElroy]

At the time, I worked with Tal after the PCB fire to select reasonable size breakers for the load.  The house and chassis were originally set at 150 amps each from tge RRB.  It's all explained in the file document on the PCB fire.

[Stephen D]

1 hour ago, Frank McElroy said:

At the time, I worked with Tal after the PCB fire to select reasonable size breakers for the load.  The house and chassis were originally set at 150 amps each from tge RRB.  It's all explained in the file document on the PCB fire.

Hi frank can you send me a copy of that pcb fire file please and what cables to fit breakers and size plus any were fuses and sizes are to be fitted and are fuses better than breakers in your opinion or not I’ve got the picture from bob and wildwood but just cannot make out which cables and were they go and breaker sizes I need to protect everything I can as if anything happens to the coach it would be scrap as there’s no techs companies in the uk that could even scratch there heads on this system so I would probably need you to holiday in the uk for a wile 

thanks Stephen D 

[Frank McElroy]

55 minutes ago, Stephen D said:

Hi frank can you send me a copy of that pcb fire file please and what cables to fit breakers and size plus any were fuses and sizes are to be fitted and are fuses better than breakers in your opinion or not I’ve got the picture from bob and wildwood but just cannot make out which cables and were they go and breaker sizes I need to protect everything I can as if anything happens to the coach it would be scrap as there’s no techs companies in the uk that could even scratch there heads on this system so I would probably need you to holiday in the uk for a wile 

thanks Stephen D 

 

[Wildwood]

Here is a more complete picture of the circuit breakers in our FRB, all installed per Franks document titled "Chassis Multiplex FRB Electrical Fire"

and as usual to Frank BIG THANKS Again ! 🙂

[Stephen D]

2 hours ago, Wildwood said:

Here is a more complete picture of the circuit breakers in our FRB, all installed per Franks document titled "Chassis Multiplex FRB Electrical Fire"

and as usual to Frank BIG THANKS Again ! 🙂

Thanks a million anything els that you learn? On your travels that can help with this plague and stop the ccm from dying 

please let me know thanks again Stephen D 

[Frank McElroy]

Read the last few posts on page 9 of this topic.  I made a few informative summary posts in common issues and what not to do if you have a Kongsberg chassis multiplex coach.

 

[Stephen D]

On 5/6/2023 at 4:08 AM, Wildwood said:

With potential of melted circuit boards or worse yet a fire we decided to be safe rather than sorry by adding the circuit breakers to house and chassis b4 board.

M

 

Hi just arrived my breaker I’ve noticed that battery connection is at the top 

and aux at bottom some wire them opposite to that I am assuming that because

of convenience of the cables being hard to work with does this matter or am i

better wiring the way the breaker says and take the feed from above then connect 

the board to the aux at the bottom 

thanks stephen D 

[Tom Cherry]

13 minutes ago, Stephen D said:

 

Hi just arrived my breaker I’ve noticed that battery connection is at the top 

and aux at bottom some wire them opposite to that I am assuming that because

of convenience of the cables being hard to work with does this matter or am i

better wiring the way the breaker says and take the feed from above then connect 

the board to the aux at the bottom 

thanks stephen D 

Personally

Do it like the terminals are labeled.  I have the same (style) resettable breaker on my slide hydraulics and Monaco wired it according to the Feed coming in on the top when the breaker was oriented properly.  Maybe doesn’t matter, but someone thought it was necessary to label the connections…

 

[Stephen D]

1 minute ago, Tom Cherry said:

Personally

Do it like the terminals are labeled.  I have the same (style) resettable breaker on my slide hydraulics and Monaco wired it according to the Feed coming in on the top when the breaker was oriented properly.  Maybe doesn’t matter, but someone thought it was necessary to label the connections…

 

Thanks TOM I was thinking the same but as they say safety in numbers and you cannot buy experience so the more of us working on this kongsburg job the better and maybe the fix is only around the corner and as I am probably the only one in the uk with a Monaco with it I need all the help I can get and hopefully some Monaco,s with the kongsburg system never get a problem with a bit of does and don’ts put in to practice 

stephen D