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Seeking source for fan control for hydraulic fan


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Traveling over contential divide to reach Grand Tetons, had to drop speed drop down to 35mph and had to stop 4 times to cool down radiator. Got appointment at Kenworth Sales in Idaho Falls this coming Thursday. Over the phone, they are thinking fan control. Not sure if they would have a replacement, so was hoping to find a source here to help out if they don’t. Have a 2006 Dynasty with ISL-2 400 Cummins.

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Look this guy up. He is great and helped me last year with a hydraulic leak. He is a diesel truck repair shop but will work on motorhomes if you ask. Really nice guy.

Ponce Enterprise

1997 Walton Ave Idaho Falls, ID 83401
(208) 709-9940
 
Edited by Timaz996
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Both the wax and electronic hydraulic fan speed controller are designed to fail wide open, i.e., max speed.  While it is possible thar it failed at min speed, I would closely check before replacing.   If it's the wax valve, you can disconnect the hydraulic lines going to it and force a max and min speed by blocking the lines (2 caps) or connecting them together (bypass valve with an inline coupler). Suspect the same can be done with the electronic controller, but I have no personal experience doing so.  

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If it's a wax valve you can disconnect the two 1/4" lines from the valve and put in brass plugs. This will run the fan wide open. I have done this and keep the brass caps in the coach just in case.

Edited by Timaz996
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On 8/15/2021 at 11:43 AM, Woody O said:

Traveling over contential divide to reach Grand Tetons, had to drop speed drop down to 35mph and had to stop 4 times to cool down radiator. Got appointment at Kenworth Sales in Idaho Falls this coming Thursday. Over the phone, they are thinking fan control. Not sure if they would have a replacement, so was hoping to find a source here to help out if they don’t. Have a 2006 Dynasty with ISL-2 400 Cummins.

I went to Kenworth Sales in Idaho Falls to see if everything was working as it should on the coach. They plugged their laptop into the diagnostic port and found out that everything was working as it should.  The problem was, I went up a too long, too high an inclined and it was too much for my coach. So, in the future, I will check the elevation when scheduling my routes to determine which inclines to tackle. Everything went well going over to Estes Park yesterday. Thanks to everyone who rendered  assistance.

 

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11 hours ago, Woody O said:

The problem was, I went up a too long, too high an inclined and it was too much for my coach. So, in the future, I will check the elevation when scheduling my routes to determine which inclines to tackle.

 

As Tim says, you have an undetermined problem.  Did you figure out if you have the electronic fan control or wax valve?  Cummins Insite will not show that which leads me to believe Kenworth didn't really do any real troubleshooting.  You should be able to run over any pass in Colorado without overheating.

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If you have a wax valve valve fan controller you can remove the 1/4" lines from the valve and cap them with brass plugs to test it. This will make your fan run wide open even at fast idle. Sorry but I don't know how to test the electronic type. If you have two 1/4" lines going to something mounted on the end tank on your radiator that is a wax valve. If you do remove the 1/4" lines from the valve have a drip pan and have your brass plug ready to cap it fast as it will drain hydraulic fluid.

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On 8/15/2021 at 8:43 AM, Woody O said:

Traveling over contential divide to reach Grand Tetons, had to drop speed drop down to 35mph and had to stop 4 times to cool down radiator. Got appointment at Kenworth Sales in Idaho Falls this coming Thursday. Over the phone, they are thinking fan control. Not sure if they would have a replacement, so was hoping to find a source here to help out if they don’t. Have a 2006 Dynasty with ISL-2 400 Cummins.

I should have asked if you fan was running wide open when you had to stop on the grades to let it cool.  If you walked back by the radiator you should have heard it howling...pulling a lot of air. If not, that means it's your fan controller.

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Check the hydraulic pump and PTO connection.  It is a known problem that the splines on the pump shaft can be worn off and the coupler does not allow the pump to deliver full hydraulic pressure  to the fan motor. Result is over heating such as you described.

 

This happened to me earlier this year.

Chet P

2004 SIG

Edited by Chet P
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/15/2021 at 12:11 PM, Hypoxia said:

If it is the electronic Sauer Danfoss control, Unplug the fan control & it should go to high speed continuously.  If the fan control module fails it reverts to high speed.

Could you tell me where those wires are, so I can unplug and see if fan speeds up? I went outside and listened to the the fan at start up and then I went outside and listened to the fan at 210 degrees and the fan is not any louder.

 

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My Outlook Data File(1).pst

 

1 hour ago, Woody O said:

Hypoxia, Could you tell me where those wires are, so I can unplug and see if fan speeds up? I went outside and listened to the the fan at start up and then I went outside and listened to the fan at 210 degrees and the fan is not any louder.

The picture I enclosed, is this the wires that I unplug?

 

IMG_0269 (002).jpg

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On 8/15/2021 at 11:43 AM, Woody O said:

Traveling over contential divide to reach Grand Tetons, had to drop speed drop down to 35mph and had to stop 4 times to cool down radiator. Got appointment at Kenworth Sales in Idaho Falls this coming Thursday. Over the phone, they are thinking fan control. Not sure if they would have a replacement, so was hoping to find a source here to help out if they don’t. Have a 2006 Dynasty with ISL-2 400 Cummins.

I had some time on my hands yesterday, so I climbed under coach to look for two 1/4" lines and saw none. Then, I went to the rear of coach and started tracing hydraulic lines coming off the fan. Traced one back to hydraulic tank. Traced another to a block {valve} and low and behold, it had an electric wire harness coming out of it. It was the valve I had been looking for. Unplugged the wires as we were getting ready to leave Grand Junction, and wow, I could put the peddle to the metal and run without any worries of overheating. WOW !!!! Thanks to Paul for giving me a link to replace parts when I get home, thanks to Hypoxia and Timaz for telling me how to fix it while on the road.

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3 hours ago, Woody O said:

I had some time on my hands yesterday, so I climbed under coach to look for two 1/4" lines and saw none. Then, I went to the rear of coach and started tracing hydraulic lines coming off the fan. Traced one back to hydraulic tank. Traced another to a block {valve} and low and behold, it had an electric wire harness coming out of it. It was the valve I had been looking for. Unplugged the wires as we were getting ready to leave Grand Junction, and wow, I could put the peddle to the metal and run without any worries of overheating. WOW !!!! Thanks to Paul for giving me a link to replace parts when I get home, thanks to Hypoxia and Timaz for telling me how to fix it while on the road.

I was camping on a ranch south of Walden  CO on Tuesday with no cellular service so I missed your post.  I'm glad you found the plug though.  There are two camps on the repair; One camp says get a new electronic controller.  The other camp says put in a wax valve.  The wax valve camp is very vocal as you have seen and I am sure they will pipe in again.  And again.

I am in the camp that would keep the electronic controller If I could get one.  If you wish to pursue the electronic controller get the part number off of that controller & I can help you with the replacement part number. 

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